What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Fortunately swapping out LBJs is not horrendously difficult.

Although I gotta say, the “4lb hammer at the rim” trick that’s worked on just about every other car I’ve touched didn’t work for shit today on the 1GT. Neither for the TRE nor the LBJ. Had to use pullers for both. Added a few minutes per side when I was already working on a time crunch.

Has anyone ever gotten tap-to-release to work on your 1GT?

 

I went the route of pullers. They work like a goddamn charm.

 

Ditto, only a two-arm and pitman. And I’d damaged that 2 arm puller pulling something impossible many years ago, so I had to disassemble it and anvil the oval side plates flat again. More time I didn’t have, but it was overdue.

it was unusually cumbersome to slide the pitman puller on due to the OEM rubber splash shield thing, too. I suspected my old OEM LBJ still had some service life left so wanted to keep them damage free. Were yours similar? I believe we’d have used the same p/n.

 

You guys use torque specs?

Zip zip baby. Send it

 

Like everything else these are an exact copy of the OME ARB UCAs. I cant comfirm but they seem to be made at the same factory. Like the welds are damn near identical. But I will do a 500, 1000 and 1500 report for yall

 

I wonder if OME is just rebranding? And Freedom was maybe getting from the same source. Hmmm….

 

I mean 500ftlbs is meeting or exceeding the factory 103 spec, sooooo it makes sense. Also cross threading is just free loctite.

 

The more you suffer, the more it shows you really care!
Right!
Yeah, yeah!

 

Can

Get out of my tool box! Can also confirm 14mm are the size for 2000-2003... well, part of 2003 anyway, I think that's where the split happens.

Black is 37ftlbs, silver flanged are 59ftlbs. So sayeth the Chilton's manual.

 

this. They look awfully close to freedoms.

 

silly me thinking if I got Toyota bolts and used the FSM I'd have the right torque spec!. Well that would explain them stretching and snapping. Where should I have been looking for the black bolt specs?

 

Like I said I cant comfirm but zooming in on OMEs and having mine in hand the welds, bends and bushings all look really really fucking close to one another. Im not trying to start rumors or anything but I mean if it looks like a duck....

 

KSP be quackin’ and gonna go in my goddamn shopping cart in a few weeks. I’ll be part of the Guinea pig group

 

Ok but I get to die first, thems the rules I got mine first aka I go first lmfao

 

I was assuming I had stripped the threads in the knuckle and that I'd have to drill it out and helicoil it. How do I know if the female threads are still intact?

 

Honestly, I never saw it until going down the rabbit hole on this forum.

When I first replaced my lbjs, they came with the black bolts. I couldn't find my Haynes manual, so I was looking it up online and fell down said rabbit hole. Haynes definitely says 59, but they are also referencing the silver flanged bolts. I believe they are referenced as "green" in that link.

 

Fuck it tread pitch match new grade 8 bolts and then just send it with the ugga duggas like @a55h0le_dachshund said to. Be sure to use a DeWalt as well

 

they're Toyota bolts but they're the black ones so I guess I was over torquing them

 

If you don't have a thread chaser of some sort, use another bolt. Spray some wd40 in there and work it in by hand. If it tightens up or feels like it's binding, back it off, and start it again. Do that for a bit, you'll know the threads are fudged if you can't do it by hand.

 

Harbor freight actually sells some decent thread tap and die sets for really good prices. Id say pick one up and chase the thread regardless. Id get sone 3 in I oil or tap magic fluid.

 

37ft.lbs. Is 444in.lbs.

 

no way the hammer was going to work for me - I thought I was going to break the puller I borrowed from autozone trying to get mine out

 

Best I ever did was 307 lbft by hand. Lioe thats some ass to hand torque to 307. Was a giant valve bonet in a reactor coolant system.

 

picklefork worked like a champ.

 

Yeah agree the dust boot makes hand threading them almost impossible. In retrospect I should have engaged in a lot more well lubricated foreplay with the knuckle. Every time I try to do something seemingly straight-forward I have more and more respect for mechanics and less and less resentment for their hourly rates!

 

307… damn. That’s impressive! Definitely what my buddies and I call “gutenstars” numbers.

Gutenstars is when you shout “guten” or some other German word really loudly and then pull up on the wrench until you see stars

 

Best gen killin it with maintenance this weekend. Good job, folks.



remember, any jackass can buy a new truck, it takes a hero to keep an old one.

 

Man I love math, tell me more

 

its a little over 50nm, and if you can do it in 1 second, thats 1/20 of a kw.

 

It litteraly took everything I had at the time. The fucked up part is had I gone over the bolt had to get pulled thrown out and then replaced. 270 bucks a bolt and this was a 28 bolt bonet if I remember correctly