What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Here's what I'd tell you.

It's tighter. Not "rougher", but "tighter", and not necessarily in a bad way. I'm sure it'll tame a little once I break everything in. Will be interesting to see how tires and a proper alignment will change it.

Truth be told, I didn't notice much difference at all until the AAL install. Braking feels a little different, and the ass-end is definitely stiff enough to notice.

 

Sounds like a fun time

 

so high ancient aliens is touching you to the soul. 'Star people'

give us a pic with those monster truck tires.

 

Can't wait for the shop to reach out. They said they'd call & book it as soon as the tires came in. I'm guessing that may be this week? Hoping to have it done by Friday.
More pics over here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/lets-see-your-first-gen-photo-thread.21/page-107#post-3318326

I honestly think this would also look great as-is if it just had some beefier tires on those OEM wheels. My tires are ... tired.

 

That looks proper. Well played to you Sir!

 

Must be the lighting. The front looks higher

 

Potentially. The light is deceptive from this side. Measuring tape tells a different story. Measurements center-to-fender and ground to fender are in the photos thread linked 4 replies up from this reply.

 

@Mr.bee - none of us can unsee that. Please pass the eye bleach.

 

Sorry I didn't finish my thought earlier. I was distracted. I meant to say, "it looks like the front is higher in the second pic than in the first."
I know that isn't the case.

 

It actually may be - I couldn't find a perfectly flat lot that was empty at the time. Some big festival was going on in the lot I wanted to use, and the other lot I like to visit was loaded with brunch traffic. Might've caused a bit of lean. Not sure.

 

Truck looks good! @shifty` . How's the front feel with that toytech setup?

I replaced my passenger front axle seal last week (on diff side), but the SOB is still leaking. Might not be fully seated, but I ain't gong back in there until it's time to put the new lift and tires on!

 

Definitely tighter than stock, not in a bad way (tighter, not rougher). Things may change after alignment and wheels/tires, we'll see, but turning feels ballpark the same, reaction to bumps is average to OEM, But I've only got 20-25 miles on them at this point, so ... need more time. Hoping to get aligned and wheels/tires this week. I suspect having that 17x9 wheel installed, with the wider footprint, will make the biggest change in sensation.

 

Alignment will change the feel the most. Chances are its a bit toe in after the lift.

 

Ok I guess I should do this finally

 

Here's the instructions on how I did mine: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...t-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-681#post-1824131

I guess I should go back to my original reply and link that info.

 

It's been a while since I last posted. Lots of work done over the past 8 mos.

Power steering started to go. After a bit of research, found that most folks recommend going OEM. It was too much for me to take on myself, had a local shop swap out. They ended up having to change out the high pressure lines as well as the return. Mechanic said they were not able to re-use existing lines do to lack of ability to re-flare the ends. Also ordered the bushing for the mount located under passenger side (not sure what it has to do with the tie rod, but it's labeled that way).

2003-2006 Toyota Tundra - Steering Gear - Toyota (44250-0C030) / $626
2000-2007 Toyota Outer Tie Rod Insulator - Toyota (45517-34020) / $32
Moog tie rod ends (added by mechanic)

After the power steering was replaced, the mechanic goofed and somehow got a nail go through the sidewall of the front tire. This happened when he brought it to another shop to get alignment done. He plugged it temporarily.

Ordered a set of new tires as it was due anyways. Old tires were starting to dry out and cracks were showing. Walmart had a great deal around Christmas time.
Pirelli Scorpion All Terrain Plus All Terrain 265/70R16 112T Light Truck Tires / $155 times 4, installation at AAA shop for $100

Winter took a toll on old battery. Replaced with cheapest one I can get.
Walmart EverStart Value battery Group 24F-1 / $69

The front fuel tank strap on the completely rusted out on one end so the tank dropped a bit. This happened at the screw mount at the edge of the frame, under the driver's side rear seat.
I wasn't going to apply a torch to remove the existing rusty bolt, being it was right up near the fuel tank, so I relegated that work to a local shop.

Turns out that is the area with the most rust compared to the rest of the frame.
2005 2006 Toyota Tundra - Fuel Tank Strap - Toyota (77601-0C020) / plus bolt and pin $81

Applied a good coat of Woolwax in the area where tank strap rusted out and then applied to other rusty bits underneath.

 

Actually did something to the Tundra today other than use it.

I picked up a set of 4Runner take offs last week, basically brand new as were the tires- nothing special, but I like the way they look on these trucks, and much better offset from the Tacoma wheels I’ve been running, maybe they won’t rub the frame ;-)

Time will tell how I feel about the tires (factory Dunlop Grandtrek), they don’t seem that well reviewed, but I’m not that demanding either as long as they work well enough. They’re nice and quiet and smooth right now.
I’ve had the same Yokohama Geolanders on the Tacoma wheels for a long time, couldn’t say how long but they were on my T100 for a few years before moving them to the Tundra 4 years ago, they have been good tires, they were rated for more capacity too, I have some heavy loads sometimes.

 

Oh, also, I noticed the caliper pin spring rubbing the rotor, anyone else had this happen? I was able to bend it about, but it still barely cleared, is that normal? Never noticed before.
Both lowers were missing too, not sure if I forgot them or if they both got torn off somehow… maybe that’s why I had two on hand.

 

I'd bend it. I believe Toyota only put them on the top, because I added bottoms to mine... didn't see any observable differences to pad wear.

 

Same, i'm running double springs. Feels like nothing, but i tell myself its making all the difference when i read about people having weak brakes.

 

I run both springs. It keeps the pads from rubbing the rotor when they aren’t engaged. Does not improve braking performance unfortunately.

 

Double springs here also. Adds at least 10hp. 'Nuff said.

 

I’ve been hearing an annoying sound like a loose washer for some time now while driving, turned out it was this and what I was hearing was the pin rattling loose, I assumed it was supposed to have a spring and I forgot.

 

I have double springs on each caliper. One actually came loose when I had to pop off my driver side knuckle to install my lift, and I didn't notice until I bolted up the caliper again. Had to unbolt the caliper to fix the damn thing and even then it was riding perilously close to the edge of the rotor so I bent it upward.

 

Should be able to manipulate the springs with the caliper bolted on, no?

 

Not the way it was folded over, nope. No way to bend it back. Would need to show you a pic. Imagine trying to install a new spring with the caliper on. Situation would've been similar. Or maybe there is a way to install a new spring with the caliper on and I was overthinking it. Letting the hooked ends go down into the caliper to hook around the slides/pins wasn't working. I know it looks like it could work, but it just wasn't working for me.

 

Couldn’t you just slide the pin out?

 

I never said I had my thinking cap on that day.

(But knowing my luck, the pads would fall down in or something)

 

Wow, good detective work! I would have already lost one and run over the other phone zip tied to the undercarriage trying to diagnose and gotten out a can of gasoline and matches haha

 

Drove 10 ft in 4wd low just to make sure its still working; check. With my brakes not up to snuff; needs pads + another bleed, you can really feel the pulling power in 1st gear.