What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

My latest thought is this camshaft position sensor supposedly gone bad is really a bad ground. Every time I turn off the truck following the wonky behavior and restart it, the problem appears to goes away.

 

From a previous post you made....Is P1340 indeed correct ?

The reason I ask, the 2002 FSM Diagnostic code list says different

 

Wouldn't I also get a misfire as well?

 

That I'm not 100% sure of but I'm saying no.
Of course I'm also trying to look at it as our older carbureted system without knowing what symptoms you're actually experiencing, performance wise.

 

Performance wise, it doesn’t feel like it’s firing correctly and the engine is about to cut out on me with some minor vibration, mostly at low idle speeds though.

 

It does mention in my latest post those 2 signals are for proper ignition timing.

Not attempting to pull you off your cam shaft sensor theory, simply showing what P1340 shows in FSM. Of course if you swapped 6 & 8 coils, I assume the code would change or possibly point to harness issue for 8

 

Unless it was the ECM presenting problems, then the problem would stay. Im not sure why Toyota would use a non-standard code there though. Does it say the same in the FSM for your year Tundra?

 

Mmmm....hope not.

They did away with your code # in 03 and 04 followed, with both having same number.

 

Vaccumed out the A/C condenser and cleaned it up. No pics, small amounts of pine needles and dog hair. It's probably not as clean as it could be but I couldn't find the foaming shit in town so.i.used distilled water and a dab of dawn. Then let it run for like 10 minutes to rinse everything off. It's like 110 today, 99° when doing this. Noticed earlier it didn't feel as cold driving around. Feels a little cooler considering the temps and humidity.
Part PHM method, part some other shit then I found a use for this stupid.little vacuum attachment I bought for the rigid a while back. Seemed to help knock shit loose to vacuum before spraying.

Next going to.polish the exhaust tips then off to dinner and 3rd shower for the day....fuck it's damn hot!

 

Just got a new set of wheels from Dustin (on here as FNWheels) at FN Wheels.

Short version: amazing, really great experience all around.

Longer version:

• Communication with Dustin was clear, amazingly well-structured, and very thorough.
• Dustin proactively helped me with options and provided pricing for all of the possible combinations (product, shipping, etc.) He was a genuine pleasure to talk to.
• The wheels shipped very quickly and arrived promptly.
• Packaging: I've never bought wheels before so don't have anything to compare to, but I far as I could tell these were packaged about as well as priceless marble sculptures at a museum.
• I ordered five "blemished" wheels. As others have attested: I couldn't really tell what the blemishes were. Discount Tire did far more cosmetic damage mounting the tires than whatever it was that didn't meet Dustin's "show quality" level.

These wheels are their F(X) Pro model, in matte gunmetal gray. They are 17in diameter, 8in width, with a 0mm offset.

Before:



After:



I put Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 285/70R17 on them, and...I think I'm happy. I have ICONs with 2 inches between the coil and the top, not sure how much actual lift, and I had to cut some plastic from the bumpers and the mudflaps. I still rub on the frame at full lock, which weirds me out.

Now to figure out what design to put on the center caps. Got a Cricut, need ideas!

 

Those look great. Nice choice. Amazing how much better these trucks look with bigger tires and nicer wheels.

 

I'd like to see them w/diff't center caps. Either black or OEM logo.

 

Looks great. So can we count on seeing you next year at Tundras to Sedona?

 

I bought wheels from FN late last year. I had the same experience. That guy is awesome and hell answer any questions you have for his wheels and a first gen anyway...and yes they com.packaged extremely well. Dude cares about his product and his customers from what I can tell.

I just put matching caps on, I have a s cond set but I'm afraid to scratch the wheel popping them out to switch lol.

 

A while back, truck would do some funky stuff after a good rain. Parked, locked, and the headlights would turn on themselves, or even better, the alarm. At 3 am. Discovered I had the dreaded ‘water leaking directly onto the integrated relay/fuse box’ problem. Fixed the leak, everything dried out, good to go. Then Hilary came along. Guess I didn’t fix the leak. Drip drip drip….. no more power locks. So I yanked this out.
I’ve seen people with the same issue say they pulled it, dried it out, and all is good. What you guys think? she toast?

 

I don't know but I hope it's ok.
Do you think it's leaking in from the cowl area?
My 03 is leaking on the passenger floor board and that's where I've been pointed to open up and replace a few groments. I still need to actually do it because it's too hot, I'm lazy and I misplaced the new grommets and plastic snaps lol

 

Ouch. Hello corrosion you bastard friend.

 

Nope. Sealed that all up before. It was comin in at the top corner of the windshield. Sealed up now but locks never came back to life. Seems like it may be permanent damage this time.

 

Take a toothbrush and some alcohol and brush off all those contact pins to try and remove the green corrosion as best you can. See if that helps.

 

I'd replace that MF. If it looks like that externally, I can only imagine what the PCB traces look like on the inside.

 

not too bad

 

That's the point..

 

thats a bit pessimistic, dontcha think?

 

Good luck there buddy!
Better?

 

if you dont need headlights, i can send you my old one if you take a pic in some crocs.

 

Heard those cali crackheads can smell copper from 10 miles away. Better store that in oil.

 

I don't doubt it one bit and agree, best to find a much better one or expect gremlins every so often.

 

I'm usually all for trying to repair but that's a whole lot of damage to the traces and who knows what the corrosion damage has done to components by linking up different circuits.

If it's not a time crunch and you can find someone to give it an ultrasonic bath you'd be able to see what's happened better.