What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Mom's are geniuses.

 

Little project for tomorrow. New steering knuckle and bearings as well as new Bilstein 5100’s for the rear

 

Where’d you get that knuckle and what’d it set you back?

 

I looked everywhere and most new knuckles were around $300-400, put the part number in on Amazon and found one for $200 shipped new. The bearings and seals cost almost as much as the knuckle, Napa bearing was $135 than seals retaining clip were about $50. Local shop pressed and assembled the unit for $195. Not cheap, didn’t have to do this but I broke a lower ball joint bolt in the steering knuckle and couldn’t drill it out. There was nothing wrong with the truck to begin with, just trying to freshen up the front end. Guess the old saying is true, “ if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” lol

 

Didn’t pass emissions, even after a 15 mile freeway drive or so.
@empty_lord or anyone else know the readiness monitor driving cycle/requirements?

Thanks @BubbaW
Looks like I was going to fast trying to make it back to the testing place
https://www.tundras.com/threads/readying-evap-monitor.119240/#post-3061544

 

I put in 40 bucks worth if gas cause im scared to see how much a full tank is

 

Big ouch. The OEM Koyo bearings were $80 each. The seals were $20 each. I have yet to attempt this as I have not found a shop willing to do the pressing and I only have access to a 20 ton press. Tempted to buy some new knuckles to press the new bearings in and have them ready for a hot swap.

 

$75-$77 on a bad week

 

off hand no. but if you have access to a higher end scan tool, forcing the ecm into test mode will set monitors faster, but once you put it in test mode it will clear monitors prior. only stays in test mode for 1 key cycle.

 

I want to replace my knuckles because they take up a lot of front suspension real estate and mine look like crap with the surface rust. I know I could just Ospho and paint them like I did the frame and rear axle, but I kind of want to start “fresh”. Wish someone sold a ready-made kit.

 

Got the radiator changed out in the sequoia today. Wasn't too hard. Lower bolts are kinda tricky. I drained about 1/2 a gallon out. Took nearly 3 gallons to fill. Ended up having to run and get a 3rd gallon. Turned on the heat to cycle everything and had no heat at all. No overheating though. No clue on how the hvac works on this thing. No A/C out of the rear vents either.

Checked the codes. P0141 and P0162 I think. Evap and something about a magnetic clutch.

My daughter says "ugh, I didn't want a fixer upper". I said "shouldn't have bought a 20 year old truck".

 

Also the cycle duration depends on the particular monitor(s) that were reset. I'd drive more like 50 miles before you tried again. Also most half decent readers will show you the monitors and whether they're ready or not

 

All of them…..
Kitty cats went back in so I pulled the negative on the battery

 

Plz see edited post above

 

If you click bubbas link, I was just going to fast for to long of a time, needs to be below 70 and non constant speed for 10+ minutes.
Also a full 5 minute warm up at idle

 

Oh well there you have folks

 

I'm pretty sure Jim Smola sells a kit. New spindles with new bearings pressed in.

 

Yeah @metalpete was trying to work with this wcompany who sells exactly what I am looking for. Little spendy but like I said this piece is kind of the backbone of that front suspension.

 

Weird on the damn coolant. Did you notice it was low prior to refilling, i.e. was the reservoir empty or anything?

No heat + no air in the rear ... Sequoia doesn't have the mechanic center dash like we do, right? Are their climate controls in the rear, maybe a fuse for the rear also?

I was going to say, "Controls binding issue" and maybe the heat/cool knob wasn't working, and the vents weren't engaging out back via the front, but I keep forgetting the system is different. Chances are with the heat, it's not activating the control flow valve (that pipes heated coolant into the heater core) bolted on the firewall, OR that control valve is just ... shot. I'm sure the seller knew about both issues...

 

I noticed that the heater core does not self bleed easily, next time you run it give the in/out lines on the firewall a good squeeze along the length of them. That will help force any air out of the heater core.

 

@bmf4069 that reminds me there is a cable that runs under the glovebox and connects near the blower motor. I dislodged that one time and lost heat. Once I placed the cable back where it goes, problem solved.

 

Yeah, this little bastard, right? (not my pic, not my truck)

​

 

Maybe the thing that actuates this trap door? After this guy found it in his truck, one other person came in with the same issue since.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/cold-air-behind-glove-box-solved.123112/#post-3155626

 

Yep. All three of those lines were holding a good amount of air for me. line 1-From the head to the heater control valve, line 2-from the heater control valve into the firewall/heater core, line 3- out of the firewall/heater core back into the head. Makes sense since they look to be the highest point in the system.

Another note on cables:
The cable for the heater control valve runs through the upper right side of the drivers footwell and through the dash. It's easy to manipulate the valve open and closed form the firewall if you think that that the cable might be the issue.

 

Maybe a dumb question but do OEM 05-06 LBJs fail or is it just the Moogs/other cheap aftermarket brands and the OEM 00-04 LBJs?

I'm planning a front end rebuild..while I solve a squeak and get my.spindle gussets welded on and wheel bearings replaced. Not sure how old mine are on my 06. But I've driven ~50k miles since I bought the truck and I'm pretty hard on it off-road sometimes. Might do tie rods and LBJs too

 

It's just a matter of non-OEM not being beefy enough, and failing in short order. Although some failures folks have seen are due to fastener failure, either because they were overtorqued, threads stretched, or otherwise.

IIRC, Toyota had recall packs for '01-'06, three separate recall kits I believe. My guess - I reiterate, this is a GUESS - is enough LBJ failures during the Gen1 manufacture period, potentially starting in the '01 year, that they issued recall kits to legally cover their own ass for all years, across three designs.

Moog had an LBJ recall, for products labeled with the brands NAPA, AC Delco, Moog, all outsourced to china, for production at a warehouse in one of the cities/province that starts with a "G" if I recall, work outsourced by Tenneco. Those specific balljoints parts were made for the '04-'06 Tundra and '04-'07 Sequoia, the recall period covered product made during 13 months from April 2020-May 2021. Something about the metal/housing not being sufficiently hard, and they couldn't feed enough blue pills.

We tell a lot of people to avoid Moog over this, but the reality is, people should be suspicious if they bought the parts as NAPA brand or AC Delco brand. They need to look at receipts or follow the misc part numbers for those brands provided in the NHTSA safety report that references them.

I'm looking to put 100K on my recall-replaced LBJ, but I may do it early, after I get my lift in.

 

It's weird, the truck made the drive home just fine, about 30 minutes. I didn't notice anything abnormal, and there wasn't coolant anywhere. No sign the engine bay had been cleaned.

It's got rotary knobs, but they're electric. It has the little screen in the dash. It also has rear controls.

the more i dig into this, the more of a disaster it becomes. The rear passenger door wont open now.

Im not sure its even flowing into the heater core at this point.

I dont think this has a cable. It could, but its the weird sequoia electric hvac.

I'd have to look again, but I don't think it had that on the firewall. I'm getting all the little differences worked out.

 

When i changed the radiator on moms sequoia, i'm pretty sure i backed it down in a ditch so the rad cap was as high as the heater hose. & squeezing while running helped.

 

Dave,

You were recomended by Shifty for Fog Light install Question. I have 02 SR5 V8 4X4 and ordered a cheap pair of oem foglamps after seeing wiring was present.

I did a bunch of searching and I purchased new FogLight oem relay and have a bunch of switches i can use.

My truck runs the early rs300 security / keyless entry for additional info but I basically want to hook the factory fogs up but with hi /lo mod. I know you have knowledge of the hi/low relay system (switch for turning off when hi-beams or control circuit)

Can you give me any tips? I did want to upgrade to better non LED foglights , disable my DRL and hook up my fogs with hi-beam relay closure bypassed. Any advise on diodes or lessons learned from your install?

 

Do you have any pics or tips i feel like parking brake switch might need to be *,tricked to disable the DRL. Or is it proven to be ok to unplug DRL connector behind drivers headlight? Thank you guys in advance.


JW