What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

How involved was the install? 2 or so hours?

 

If they rattle when empty stuff a grocery store list underneath. Since my cup sticks to the insert, i'll get change between, so i use the holder with the notch, and use the full insert for change and reciepts and whatnot.

 

Yeah i thought about screwing down the one I use after accidentally bringing it in the house so many times.

 

Opinion time, please.
I have my rough country, which is currently coated in a gloss blank paint. I am installing my sliders next week. They are uncoated. Should I:

1) Paint the sliders gloss black to match the bumper or...
2) Have both the sliders and bumpers line-x'd.

I already have the matte bronze rims, so wondering if the matte line-x might look better for both and also be more durable.

Thoughts?

 

For toting bare bottles its best to double or triple stack coozies to wedge it in nice and tight. Dont be a fool, wrap your tool.

 

@Openbaffle

if you use em, you'll repaint regularly.

maybe a coating to paint over? Like ospho or something?

 

Hmm. That's a good point. Don't want to have to get them recoated a bunch.

 

I’d say LineX would look better and last longer

 

I dont remember the project farm vid, but some stuff might hold up better over dirt and logs, but rocks are going to peel up anything, maybe dig in. But, you have a whole new realm of possibilities to drag yourself over. And after every trip you touch-up.

 

Still smiling when I look at my front end now. Not what I have done, but what Brute Force Fab did, behold the beauty of steel on the front of a truck:

Ft. my broverlander ditch lights I have on 24/7

 

I would go line x

 

Sorry I didn't respond sooner, I was installing them. Kind of embarrassed to say that I didn't use the torque wrench, just did it by feel.

 

Topside line-x for shoes, and the slippery bits on the bottom just touched up with a thick coat of gloss?

 

You cant treat these trucks like a regular ford.

 

Yikes. Aren’t you worried they’ll fall out?

 

@Openbaffle
This is what happens when you line x sliders and use them, I would not suggest it.
Either powder coat or paint them so touch ups are easier

 

Or Raptor liner and do the touch ups yourself as well.

 

The powder coat on my sliders is still holding up well after 2.5 years.

 

Personally, I'd just paint the sliders with either rustoeleum bed liner for easy touch ups, or just straight up black paint.

 

It's all fun and games until you get water under the coating. Then, after they get rusted out enough, you go to step on the bar and **CRACK!**

This is the answer. Properly prep, clean every nook and cranny. Self-etch primer. Follow the top-coat instructions in the primer's instructions. Rustoleum has a reputation as "DIY" but they make a great topcoat one-shot product. I prefer the matte black ("satin") outdoor paint.

 

Any custom welded add-on should be coated in something you'll be able to touch up at home, yourself. So, automatic - no powder coat. Line-X is over-priced. If thats the look you want to go with, do it yourself, then you can touch up with the same product. The Rustoleum bedliner is great and simple to touch up if you ever need to, but it's pretty durable so touch-up isn't often if ever. I personally think the gloss would look good with your setup, but regardless of whichever product you go with, proper prep is critical. Spend 75% of the time on prep and 25% on coating, and you'll be fine. If you do go with gloss, stop by your local sk8 shop and get a sheet of grip-tape to cutup for topside step traction.

You go with blue or red loctite?

yup

but how many times have your 'rock sliders' gone sliding on rocks?

 

wait... where do those go? am i suppose to have those?


OH. thats for the small console isnt it.

 

Yeah. Early truck with captains chairs short center console. AFAIK

 

I'm surprised you didn't do a Panhandlemonium for that install. I woulda came and helped!

 

What is the best prep work for painting bare metal? Trying to paint my sliders didn't go well. Should you scuff them first? I cleaned mine with acetone, then did two coats of self-etching primer before painting them with Rust-Oleum. Afterwards I could peel the paint off with my fingernail.

 

Just twice so far. Afterwards I touched them up with Rust-Oleum bed liner.

Blurry screen grab from a video but I'm pretty sure this is where I scraped the passenger side.

 

Did you shake your cans a good 3-5 minutes before applying, and was the paint fresh?
Did you read the instructions on the can before using the products?
How long did you wait between the coats of self-etching primer, and which primer did you use?
How thick did you lay on the primer, and were you at least 10-12" from the surface, using the coverage method from the manufacturer, since some want multi-pass/multi-coat before achieving full coverage?
How long did you wait before top-coating with rattle can, did you wait for full cure of the primer, did you sand the primer after cure?
When it scraped off, did it scrape off to bare metal, i.e. the primer failed to adhere, or did it scrape only the topcoat, i.e. the topcoat failed?
If you sanded the primer before topcoating, with what grit?
How long did you let the topcoat cure before scraping?

Every paint has a coat/re-coat/topcoat window, I'm pretty sure primers aren't immune. If you don't respect the window listed on the can, the paint often can't cure properly. With bare-metal, you always want to sand (scuff pad, I prefer maroon) the surface, not so much for the sake of abrading, but to knock down oxidation. This is assuming the steel wasn't top-coated or treated with something to prevent corrosion, in which case you'd need to dissolve that. I usually take acetone to the metal first to remove any residuals, then scuff every nook and cranny, before using a spray can paint prep product, then immediately shooting primer.

I've never had issues with paint flake/scrape away. I've done quite a bit of frame/crossmember, notch plates, track & torsion bars, and kinds of other bare steel work this way. Never had the issue you're describing, but I almost always follow the can instructions to the letter, and follow the general process above for prep: Acetone 1st, thorough Scotch Brite maroon scuff after, prep spray, then primer coats per can, then let primer fully cure, usually sand after full cure then topcoat, unless can says otherwise.

 

Absolutely not.

Looks like bare metal.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/02-daily-driver-weekend-camping-rig.47777/page-3#post-1844391

 

I dont know if its because of the fumes, but i ALWAYS get a better coat when i'm reefing the devils lettuce. Always & noticably. So much so the (house) painter lady i was working for bought me the good stuff every couple weeks.

 

Well, at least you know which layer failed. This wasn't a top-coat prob, it was a bottom-coat prob. Either a panel prep failure, or a primer application failure.

I imagine any busy paint shop has primer ready to shoot at any given time. Granted, prep takes time, but having someone prep and shoot baremetal is bound to cost less than a powder job...

There's a lot to be said for being chill and relaxed when laying down paint. But also helps to read the instructions on the paint first, before you start puffing, and keep a timer around so you don't need to read instructions while stoned, and don't lose track of time. You just gotta remember to set your timer.