What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

holy crap those are sexy! very nice

 

how much seafoam? I did 4oz of MMO for the tundra, but the titan is due (for milage, but still clean), and i wouldnt trust a full dose of seafoam for more than half an hour.

 

I think the can says 1oz for each quart of oil so I did around 6oz of Seafoam.

 

I have a can of the spray seafoam and it says a whole 12oz into the intake and to let it heat soak 10 minutes after the 7 min spray, but i know the liquid cans mention fuel and oil capacities.

i run lucas on the bikes, but stick to mmo for vehicles.

 

Me too, except I add about an inch a month to the overflow. I've gotta a leak at the rear coolant crossover pipe at one of the gaskets. Just need to get motivated enough to pull the intake to reach it.

 

That was my first thought. But there's also a couple of places where coolant can weep, you'll see them when you pull the block. Someone mentioned one other coolant mystery, I can't remember what the hell it was now.

That's usually what I do, basically 7oz rounded up. This last time, knowing what I was up against in the crankcase, I dumped in a whole can of the 'high mileage' stuff after checking my oil level and draining off about half a quart, which was tedious.

Reality is, Seafoam is just highly refined petroleum product. It's not really possible to add "too much", but as with MMO, it's got different lubricity to it, so I wouldn't go towing a doublewide motorhome after swapping 4-5 cans of Seafoam for oil. Most MMO junkies won't go more than 2 quarts MMO on an engine that takes 5-8 quarts.

Old-timers who use Kerosene say you'll get things clean as a whistle swapping half the oil for kerosene, then idle for an hour. My grandfather did that on just about everything, then used the leftovers for burn piles around his 40 acres. I've heard of people replacing all the oil for kerosene and running, I actually saw a video of one older guy doing this to his old beater on YouTube many years ago, but it sounds like a fire risk waiting to happen.

 

Can’t wait to see your build evolve into long travel

 

I should’ve just started with that, but what do I know lol. The rears are like “hey fronts what’s the problem with you”?

 

Hindsight is 20/20. Time to go send it and test those things. Looks good

 

I had the same thing, just became more and more every time I added some. never dripped anywhere but it was the rear coolant passages. replaced them and been good ever since.

 

Where are those? Mine is such a small amount I don't know what to think. No sign of leaks anywhere but it can be sneaky like you said.

 

I'm lazy right now. What are these rated at as far as tensile strength or whatever? Are these custom lengths or just off the shelf things?

I don't know Jack shit about limit straps or whatever they're called.

 

Went out and bought some replacement studs for the downstream O2 sensors. Worked the nuts/studs off the right side sensor. Will be soaking the left side over the next few days. Hopefully, I can get them out with a box wrench otherwise I’ll be pulling the front driveshaft to get the impact gun in there.

 

Those particular ones are rated for 10,000 pounds and are heat treated steel I can’t remember the type of steel, maybe 4130 .Yeah they come anywhere from like 6 inches to 40 or 50 inches. You measure your mounts at full extension and then subtract about 10% for stretch. The Camburg ones are made by PRP seats, and they did hardly stretch at all compared to the ones supplied by dirt king.

 

Temporary mount until I fab a permanent one. The location is good though.

 

Careful with your calfs!

 

Isn't that a little outdated? Does that still happen? Bring on the hamster dance!

 

I uhh made an impulse buy after selling my pop up camper....
Biggest cams they make that will work without machining the heads.

 

More often than you think

 

I gave it a few in and out tests. I don't even know it's there. But, just in case, maybe I wear shin guards backwards...

 

hardly ever

 

i keep looking at them... marc can get me a deal on them.. but damnit i need to stop dropping money in the truck when i have 6 other shitboxes to get done

 

I probably wouldn't have bought them this soon if it wasn't an open box deal. Next year I plan on getting a built short block from XAT and I think these cams would pair super well with it. Still trying to find a machine shop to make me an adapter plate to put m112 rotors in my m90, another one to port the blower, and somebody to thermal coat the rotors. I wanna make some serious power with this thing

 

I keep toying with the idea of cams or the harrop TVS blower… but I really don’t need to go making this truck fast.. no matter what I do, my mr2 would run circles around it. And towing wise, it’s pretty damn good. 4.30 gears are likely my next step.. then trying to up the volumetric efficiency while n/a (which likely means cams) this engine has a lot to give with a proper tune and some intake side work based off the numbers it currently produces (VE speaking)


Honestly it seems cams alone would REALLY wake this motor up if the bottom end could handle more rpm

 

I think the bottom end would be reliable with cams and springs up to 6k. Anything you set that, I’d worry.. mostly rods

the 2gr people are pushing 8k rpm with cams and springs… reliably in racing and daily use

stock is 6500

 

Yeah, I’d put it behind the seat myself. You want as much legroom as possible if you ever get into a crash. It would be bad enough to get your legs broken from the dash getting pushed back, you don’t need a fire extinguisher impaling your calf from behind.

 

I threw a cheap set of headlights at my "failed" DC. The fit is piss poor. Lol. I knew what I was getting into. There is a shitty gap between the lights and the surround underneath and inside toward the grill. The corner lights also fit poorly. The passenger side turn sticks out beyond the surface of the headlight lens. I put cheap halogens in them. I'll take it for a spin tonight just to see how shitty the output is. May turn around and retrofit them with bi-led projectors I have sitting around. I'm not gonna paint the bowls this time. I'll leave it chrome so the moron doesn't fail me again. LMAO. I should've never got rid of the OEM buckets.

Also realized a had a shitload of wiring hanging around from lights and light bars I no longer have. Between the aftermarket fog light harness, the light bar harness, and the HID harness that I removed, i must have cleared 20 pounds and 30 miles of wiring. Lol.

Also contacted Rutech end of last month about my SAIS bypass kit no longer working. They asked me to send it back to them and they'd replace it after their QC team looked over it. Still haven't heard back from them. I left the block off plates installed. Will it cause any problems if I fire up the truck without the bypass module installed? Luckily I have a backup truck so I'm not stuck waiting on that replacement, if they even send it since I was beyond the 2yr warranty timeframe.

 

cross over pipe is at the rear of engine, below intake mani. its a sneaky leak that dries up quick.

 

And thus, the full forged bottom end from XAT. I want to take my grandmas old truck to the moon lmao. Trying to decide what trans to go with. TH400, built a340, or CD009 swap. All of them will hold the power, and there's not that much price difference between them. Thoughts?