What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I buy them through work and only pay around $40 for shipping.

 

Since we've talked about fitting bigger tires in this discussion recently, I happened upon a pretty interesting and informative video yesterday that I figured id share with you guys. Most of you guys probably already knew this but I learned a thing or two. Makes me want to really try to flex out my truck offroad and see how my 33s "fit"

 

Tire Rack. Last three orders I've made with them, it was free shipping, and maybe b/c I'm in the city, they have mobile mount/balance/install for about the cost you'd pay for shipping. Big difference is, I can sit on the porch and have a damn beer while I watch. Always kick your installer an extra $20!

 

They are in his profile picture

 

Those are attached with resistance welding most likely. We use those on our body mounts here. Parts sit on a ground electrode then the positive electrode is on a cylinder. Positive comes down touches the nut then blasts a bunch of current through the part and the corners are all that make contact so it fuses the nut to the part. They are then welded in one spot in the assembly line to make sure they don't fall off either. Seems like the later would have benefited the tundra frames too.

 

Well @Jack McCarthy while I was going through my CC statement for this month, I looked back and remembered: My fill-up about 1/3 tank prior to throwing the knock sensor code was at a chain grocery store that also sells gas and has had problems with bad gas in the past. I only got it there because my normal station was having their tanks serviced and the only 2 pumps open had a line.

Needless to say, I was able to eat through it, then got gas at my normal Shell station earlier this week. I've put around 250 miles on the truck since initially throwing the code, and it hasn't reappeared; if it was an actual knock sensor issue, I'd have expected it to return by now, or to see at least some sort of symptom. I guess maybe you were right, and it was bad gas after all?

 

Just keeping the old gal all lubed up. Some much needed maintenance

 

What size did you end up going with this time? 285/75/17?

 

Yeah, back to 285/75r17.

 

What's the plan with those 35's? Those bad boys are just about brand new right?

 

Aero tape like a real nascar.

 

Gonna sell them. Haven’t checked but they have less than 5k on them.

Adds 5mpg! Grill cracked a few winters back, surprised it took this long for someone to point it out. It’s on the “to fix” list.

 

Aero tape adds 5hp

 

hhaha. I saw the 'just say fuck it and duct it' repair work too, didn't wanna mention it as I was hittin you up bout them 35's...

 

I thought my headlights looked pretty clear until I compared them to the new ones...

 

Not that it's anything to brag about, but I think I got you beat on the haze there's a before/after polishing at the end of this wall of text here.

But to take that a step further and show how much the lenses degrade with time, even after polish, check the last pic here.

When you see the fully-polished lens sitting above the original OEM lens, it really shows how there's (sadly) no substitute for replacing them every 10-20 years...

 

love this whole setup

 

So will he if his tires don't rub.

 

Lol Hey sparky! Yeah, those are dead. A lot of empty conduit in this old shop. We still haven’t completely finished demolishing the second floor. We made enough room for another lift then saw something shiny and got distracted. My life is full of half completed projects!

 

It’s amazing how heavy and huge those 35’s were! These falcons drive great and I love this size. Less turning resistance, no vibration and they’re not squared off. Gonna align it later today, kick back on the caster which will improve the camber. Should drive like a…well lifted tundra. With the solos I shouldn’t rub but I’ll test that out next weekend. Picking up the new trailer tomorrow!!

 

Right! I had polished them a year or so ago, and they were OK for a while. This time around I went for new (TYC ~ $40 side) and spent a fraction of the time installing that I would have spent sanding, polishing, coating, etc.

 

Now that I have clear lenses, I upgraded to Katana LEDs.



First I installed the headlights. Predictably my fogs stopped working, and the switch for the fogs now controlled my brights!. I asked Katana support for resistors, and they graciously provided them (they sent 2 harnesses) at NO CHARGE!



I installed one on the passenger side headlight, and the problem was solved. Now that the headlights and fogs were working as intended I installed the LED fogs. Everything still worked as intended. The headlight LEDs were fixed, and required no clocking. The fog LEDS were clockable, and indeed need to be oriented so that the beam spread horizontally.

When it's dark I'll try to get a picture of the spread. I may need to tinker with the alignment as well.

 

Would you know if they make aftermarket LED headlight reflectors for our trucks to better focus the beam? I assume yours are just stock replacements?

 

Calling all Alignment experts and just some help in general. Just got my baby aligned. Drives great! And all just Caster is way off and tech is not sure why, he thinks its the UCAs that are too tight. Any suggestions?

 

Take pics of the adjusters.

 

The cam bolts? If those, they're currently maxed out. As per the tech.