What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

They may not have done a second caster swing. I see they nudged the camber on the LF but no change to caster. Also not a fan of the .5 cross caster (I prefer even or at least within .2 where possible).

 

Cross caster is worse than cross camber for the feel of the vehicle.. .2 is like the max I allow. (Unless physically impossible to get closer)

 

Ditto.

 

Thanks for input! The alignment has a 6 month warranty so I can take it back in and get it adjusted for free. Gonna let the suspension settle a bit more before I take it back but I will see if they can get those number that you mention.

 

Curious to see how those look on more of a stock 1st gen.

 

Just sold my hitch to a guy with 2 very low mileage Tundras (also a bunch of vw busses I guess) Red AC 01 barn find with 20k miles and a frame that looks brand new, engine bay pristine, absolutely beautiful. He said he got it for 19 or something 3 years ago directly from the owner. He also has a RC with similar miles, 2000, used as a costco truck for a company and kept in the company garage (that's where the hitch is going) that he picked up for 9k. It's cool when you stumble across another like minded dude.

 

Crawled under the truck to inspect the flatness of my leaf springs. Noticed this: (yellow residue)

is that from cheap gas? Wasnt there a couple months ago.

 

That's super weird and something I wouldn't worry about. But, I would love to know if anyone knows about that.

 

Working on an air line to the rear tank. Maybe a remote fill location in the back as well. I think i might put some stickers on today.

 

This an Oak Interior on my 04 DC Limited if that helps !

 

It does, thank you!

I sent you a PM...

 

Some guy was touching my ditch lights. when I came out of a store. I recognized him from around town. Gave him an under the hood, in the cab and under the truck tour. Dude probably thinks I'm crazy, but I looked at a lot of pics of his sweet 04' Dodge he picked up. So I think it's all good.

 

The guy I met was definitely my kind of crazy. That frame. Looked brand new. Zero surface rust.

 

https://www.eneria.fr/en/hexavalent-chromium-or-chromium-6-cr-6-on-engines/

Could also be zinc oxide? Just weird that this exhaust has been on the truck for 20 years, and its a new residue. Wonder if my pcv or cats are due for maintenence.

but on the other hand, its been a long time since this truck has done a 10 hr drive.

 

Today I figured out that a 35x12.50r17 @ 20psi DOES fit in the stock spare location! She’s low but almost level with the hitch. I’m still gonna hammer in the horns so she will tuck up a little further. Maybe cut them and bend new ones from rebar.

 

Hi guys,
I have my truck really quiet now, but have this annoying wind rushing noise at the top of the drivers side rear access cab door. I've put backer rod in all the seals and adjusted the front door in to get rid of some of it. How is the rear door adjusted in at the top? I've loosened the top bracket , but it seems to have no adjustment / leeway at all?
Appreciate your help

 

EDIT:

Nice work, I don't think Ive heard of 35's under there. Have you put those 35s on the corners yet?

 

Put a board between the bottom of the door and the sill, and push in at the top? Tweak it a little at a time, because tweaking it back isnt as fun.

 

ok thanks I'll just gradually give the b pillar on the door a gradual nudge until it stops, thanks.

 

a chunk of rubber might be better than a board, but make note of where the gap is, and compensate for the window frame.

When the rear door is latched how much give can you get out of the top of the door?

i’ve got about 1/8” and can hear the seal squeak.

 

yeah its pretty tight up against it, no real budge and dragging a piece of paper through the door seal while closed gives good resistance, except for around the top hinge area at the rear of the door near the bed. Guess I'll keep adding more backer rod to try and eliminate it, its only 3 bucks for a roll of 20 feet.

 

Because I never open my half door windows in the back, I lubed up the seal with dielectric grease to get the seal to quit squeakin after some tweaking on them brackets.

We are talking about the window seal fir the rear door, yes?

 

Na, its a wind rushing noise seeming to be coming from the top of the rear door seal. I had it on the drivers door as well and kneed up against the door trim and pulled the b pillar in and it fixed that, but the rear seems way to solid to do the same. I was thinking of doing a very long road trip and I know its going to give me the shits after a few days ( probably keep me awake though, which is a good thing)

 

If you had the superior DC this wouldn't happen...

 

I also haven’t heard of someone who’s tried but I’m surprised it does! No, the 285/75r17’s are still on except for the spare. I need to drive 7 miles at 65mph for the alignment once the solo lca’s show up and I install them, keeping the 35’s fresh till post alignment. Waiting on solo and new oem lbj’s. Gotta press in the new uniballs in the uca’s and then everything’s ready to put back in.

 

Yeah I went shopping for a truck not a limo.

 

How crushed is this part of the seal on the rear door?


i thought you meant at the b-pillar.

 

It doesn't seem too bad, see below, the paper drags through without any resistance is where the seal travels around that top hinge in that picture, but it definitely seems to be coming from above my head, I can't change the pitch of it by pressing the door etc.

 

I think if you do a good job of marking your alignment tabs - good to go. I must have farmed it big time, no way I could go 65, I had to get out to check the lugs I was so off. But I'm 100% sure that was on me. Mark those things front and back.
You know we are all counting on you at this point? Lol.

 

Changed the quick connects under the seat for type V or something like that. Ran air to the back tank and a remote air pick-up near the bumper. Not bad, bleeds air slowly. But, so did my manifold so hmmm. Added stickers.