What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I'll get it aligned tomorrow - that should show what is needed, if anything.

 

Dash swap complete. Finally have a darker interior. Just need the final bits. Nice having a console that’s actually solidly mounted.
Leather door panel is meh. But it looks better. It’ll be a good template to make new cards.

 

Couch wrenching. 4 tire deflate / inflate.

 

I have a hard enough time keeping one hose from getting all tangled.

 

Since the cam plates were removed they are also going to throw off your caster too.

 

I'm not as knowledgeable about suspension as many here. What is the appeal/benefits of the fancy lower control arms?

 

The potential benefits of these have already been covered but these are even beefier units than the OEMs. These allow more caster when running a non-adjustable UCA such as a uniball. The bushings on these might be better than OEM too.

Covering suspension basics though - one of the main benefits of a long travel suspension (which the Solo LCA is not) is the longer lower control arms. This pushes both the wheels and the lower shock mount out further from the frame and you'll be able to run a longer shock at an angle, leading to more wheel travel.

 

Oh, so the solo with an adjustable UCA has less value / effect? I didn’t realize that.

Mine are still all boxed up. I’m waiting for Erik to get his squared.

 

Not necessarily. Uniball UCAs like Total Chaos will have more caster built in. You can adjust SPCs to change the caster.

 

"Leather".

But honestly your door "leather" looks better than mine.

 

It was done by someone. No clue who.

 

Agreed!

 

Curious how it ends up and what the solution is, hopefully an alignment and small coilover adjustment is all that is needed.

 

SUV is only sequoia and DC. The access and reg are smaller

 

Yeah, I figured it was a different fan shroud than the AC and RC due to size difference. It would just be interesting if the 05-06 DCs don't say SUV on them since the 04 DC has its own quirks.

 

The step child…..

 

The ball joint also sits farther forward to kick the tire forward and gain space for bigger tires.

"With these LCAs we were able to set the lower ball joint forward 1″. This will allow you to fit a bigger tire and will gain 2-3 degrees of caster."

Specs

• Stock length
• Lower Ball Joint pushed forward 1″
• Recommended 33″ (35″ tire can fit, but needs modification)
• 2-3 degrees of caster gained
• CNC laser cut and CNC bent
• 3/16″ cold roll steel
• Boxed design for superior strength
• MIG welded
• Made in the U.S.A.

 

I’m curious what caster is achieved with uniball uppers.

 

My front diff drain plug is f'd and I can't get it out. I believe this is a somewhat common problem with the female hex getting rounded off. What's my best plan of attack? Weld on a bolt head or something? Ugh

 

Heat cycle & penetrating oil before rounding it out. Maybe a few taps with a hammer.

is it rounded bad? Might need to drill it for an ez out.

 

Yeah it was Pretty rounded off last time I changed it and I put it off until the next change. Surprisingly It didn't get any better... Haha. I should have good access to drill it for easy out. Thought I've seen on here people welding on a nut or something...

 

Hit it with a ball pein hammer, it will shock the threads loose and smoosh the washer creating world peas

 

Thats usually the step after breaking the EZ out.

 

I agree. Shock the threads. Hehe. peas.

 

I had this problem on my '16 Tacoma. Others here are real men. I tried and failed. Ordered a special part to convert allen key to hex and felt I was losing the battle. Took it to the neighborhood mechanic and they were too scared to even try. Took it to the dealer, $200 and a sage mechanic got it done with the chisel method.

I figure that was money I'm happy to spend. I dropped off a six pack for the guy for saving my bacon. Plenty of mods I can be successful at without destroying my truck with a one time GTFO situation.

You can pre-purchase the correct plug with a nice clean hex on it for next time, and the appropriate crush washer. But I figure unless you really don't trust your dealer, they likely have at least one good mechanic there who can get it done.

 

By the way, you did try and remove your fill plug first correct? Always, and I do mean always, make sure you can fill it back up first before you drain it. This is the way.

 

I removed my fill plug first! I made that mistake once a long time ago, never again

 

The fill plug came out so easy I may have went at the drain plug a little ham fisted... That was stupid

I have replacement plugs that I ordered a while back. Just have to get this one out first.

I think welding on a nut would be a better first attempt then chisel method. As I could always try that next. I've never tried an easy out on something this large and that's a lot of drilling...

 

I gave it several good smacks driving in the hex socket. I'll gladly beat on it some more though...

 

just beat it!