What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I don't think you are wrong...

 

-Don Julio is good, for sure.
-Hussongs reposado is good stuff for fairly cheap
-Clase Azul is the best IMO, but spendy

 

While I have heard of Sotol, I have never tasted it! Bucket List.... Wiki'ed it, "The Desert Spoon takes approximately 15 years to mature and yields only one bottle of Sotol per plant", they had better start a forrest or 2 of Dasylirion wheeleri! Thanks for the Rev H.Heat, listening to him right now on YouTube. Diggin it!!! KEXP had a show with him, if you have not had chance to see it, go here!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZuKnVtO7-I

The guy rocks!! I always dug Commander Cody, for the time he was out there!

 

Ya, not an oem one I dont think. Think these are made by the company who originally made them, but are like replicas of the original. Never been up close to an Ivan stewart in person to know.

 

Had this issue as long as I've owned the truck but it seems my driver window is out of allignment and rocked forward too far. I have to get out and push on the window from the outside to get it to close properly and not have excessive wind noise and to keep the upper outer seal from folding in on itself. I figure there must be some sort of adjustment on the regulator to bring the front half of the window up higher or move the back down lower. Just wanted to see if anyone had ideas or suggestions on doing this. Probably just need to pull the door panel and take a look at things soon.

 

After the stupid shit we had with our Highlander popping off a bolt, I can't recommend enough to pop the door and look at the internals. There's a solid chance one of the screws holding the track in place is loose or popped out. Be sure to roll the window down about 1/2 way before you open the door up, and I'll advise you - before anything else, after getting the door panel off - to run your hand along the bottom gulley of the door to check for bolts. If you find one, this 30 second step will immediately alert you to the 1st thing you need to look for. There's a lot of shit that can go wrong in a door, anything to narrow it down is a plus.

You may want to check your window tracks too, see if you may want to snug them up to the window further if your window is rattling when cracked less than 40%. I don't recommend drilling new holes like PHM did (to each their own), but there is at least some adjustability in the tracks.

 

Grease the window tracks. Helps seal better too? I had Bruce grease up the virus d-window track, and that mf is like butter.

Can't remember what the hell I left him to use. Some silicon style grease which "doubled as this/that/the other things." Anyways, we used it at TG for assembly lube for seals so I figured the window track would be good place too

 

You mind pinging him to ask? I'd be interested. Next time I've got my doors off, I intended to putt around in there to see what I can tinker with.

I was eyeballing the one door you picked up that lacked a card to see how it all works, and check if that rubber insert was replaceable. I wish I'd looked better at it. I'm wondering if there's not a tighter rubber track insert you could install to kill the 'window cracked 1"-2" rattle' issue our trucks have.

 

From the virus. Forget about that thread sometimes

 

Now that I got my new grease gun and it seems to be working fine, Ill probably tackle the drive shaft zerks this weekend. Just realized... How do i know how much to fill them up? Is there a certain number of pumps i should be doing, or do I fill up until I cant pump anymore or something starts leaking out? Thanks guys!

 

I'm going with until you start to see grease escape.

 

Good call....let's you check tightness of all track bolts/screws.
I used Napa Sil-Glyde that I had left over when I took my moon roof window/frame out to clean regulator since it was struggling to open/close....the FSM calls for MP grease for many of our lubrication points. Each one of those window lube points noted in FSM are made of neoprene plastic and one will see an improvement once lubed. I chose to remove the window/regulator completely since it had probably not been done since new and I wanted it German clean(goodin clean).



Lubricant - Multi Purpose Sil-Glyde Lubricates 4oz. Plastic Tube BK 7651351 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com)

 

Still had everything apart (due to weather/time) from Starter so I spent the day putting in new Spark Plugs (PO had same taste as I apparently, NGK Iridiums), relooming the Injector Harness (it all was brittle and broke), replacing /PCV valve and cleaning/prepping the manifold and intake ports for the DD injectors and reassembly.

Put her all back together tomorrow while its dry and hope it all is good! Just looking at the Plugs im sure fresh ones and fresh injectors are going to make huge difference. The truck was running great to begin with so anything i get as a bonus to the starter from this maintenance is gravy.

 

I try to only get on the forums at work to pass the time so sorry for late reply but now that I thought about it I remember when I bought it that the two cross arms would rub on each other on the way down and cause a scrape noise and I put grease between those two points. I don't remember why I didn't put much effort into fixing the window that time but I think I was trying to knock out a speaker install. I'm afraid maybe something is bent in there and causing the issue. I'll do a bolt check in the door first off or hopefully be able to see some adjustment that's pretty obvious.
I don't really want to go on our trip without dealing with this but I'm not sure I want to pay for/deal with replacing the whole regulator if something is bent. At the very least I'll be sure and juice up all the points from the post @BubbaW made. Hope to have time this weekend to inspect everything.

 

The OEM regulator isn't terribly expensive and it's surprisingly easy to install. There's one bolt that is much easier to remove if you take off the speaker and access through the speaker hole.

 

I had to change all the bushings and brackets on my steering rack today, it truly blows my mind as to what dealership mechanics will bolt back up to a new frame, apparently this steering rack shackle was deemed ok????

 

You'd think they would want to get more money out of you and replace that and charge you labor at a minimum. Crazy

 

Today, I gave my interior a quick detail to get the season started. I was going to give the exterior a thorough washing, but we're getting snow tonight so I'll wait. I also installed my Weathertech floormats that arrived yesterday.

 

I really like the Weathertech in these trucks. At work someone went to town on my truck with a upholstery cleaner the other day. I was so impressed I have one arriving today.

 

My interior wasn't terrible, just needed a good once over. I cleaned the inside of the windshield, hit the dash with Armorall wipes, and vacuumed the carpet and seats.

I had Weathertechs in my previous vehicle (2015 CRV) and I was more than satisfied with them, so I had no problem ordering from them again.

 

I personally wasn't happy with the Whethertech fitment, and I think others felt the same. https://www.tundras.com/threads/weathertech-mats-question-fit-correctly.69231/

I will say, they do the damn job for sure, but mine look unusually sloppy compared to yours. Mine've been in for a couple of years now and the fitment hasn't changed much (if any) from then:

 

My fitment is slightly better than yours, but still not ideal, and not as good as it was in my Honda CRV, but I'm still good with it. As long as they contain all the dirt and pine needles that my shoes bring in.

 

We have different mat design, but there is some warp at my kick panel as well. Not enough to bother me, and I will likely re-train it's memory.

 

The Husky mats fit ok, not great. They tend to get slippery when wet though which I don't like. Sadly, no one makes great rubber mats for our trucks anymore.

 

I tried applying some heat, but no dice. I'm at a loss.

 

I noticed when I had them out for carpet cleaning for a day, they had some extra waves from sitting on each other. Maybe it's a time thing more than a heat thing. I'll play with heat tape weight at some point. There may just be a truck warms up and back to where we were thing going on.

 

I have weather tech in my GTI and wore a hole in them after just over a year. Damn things were almost $100.

I got the generic Costco weather tech mats a while back for my truck and they're pretty nice. They aren't form "fitting" like the ones you guys posted, but for $29 they're pretty hard to beat.

 

How the heck did you wear a hole in them? I had a set for over five years (and 101K miles) and when I sold the vehicle, they were still holding up strong.

 

My clutch foot is too strong I guess

 

Clutch makes sense.