What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Not the same but I've had the Zerex Asian in mine for 2 years with no ill effects.

 

Good to know. Any idea how many gallons I should buy? Manual states total capacity is 12.3 qts. I can't imagine I'll get that much out with a drain and fill(after I replace radiator)..

 

I would get 2 Gallons just to be safe and have a spare up on the shelf, I would imagine you would get a little over a gallon out of the radiator.

 

Retreat, reassess and re-engage is often a good strategy. Sun Tzu said: The general who advances without coveting fame and retreats without fearing disgrace is the jewel of the kingdom.

 

You guys are cracking me up.

@Professional Hand Model , you better document this job well. We're not letting you off easy with just a few pictures. Sticky Status is your destiny.

 

I picked up a can of white plasti dip today. I'm going to see how I like the entire strip white. If I did the entire thing black it would be too much. The chrome is too beat up to try and do "new" black over foggy chrome. I'll post a few pics this weekend. I'll be dipping the wheels black too.

 

When my mechanic did the timing belt I bought 2 gallons of coolant and 2 gallons of distilled water. When all was finished I got a 1/2 gallon of pre-mixed back.

 

I bought a new flood jack and channel locks to install my front superbumps today

Finito.



If I had an impact I'd tackle the rear ones, but I'll hold off for now

Debating on removing the front sway bar

 

Buying new tools is fun!! You may only use it once a year but if the tool saves ya hours of work, it is worth it. I left my sway bar off my truck after the LCA bushing replacement to see what it is like and so far it isn't too bad. The ride is less stiff, I am gonna run off road with it and see if it makes a big difference in articulation. If it dramatically improves the the ride I will leave it off. I mainly use my truck off road while hunting and fishing.

 

How easy are these to install? Do you have to remove anything to make room?

 

Have you talked with Brian about a front winch bumper by chance?

 

Not yet, I only mentioned that I was interested in a rear bumper. I can talk to him and see what he thinks though.

 

He’s been killing it for the 2nd/3rd gens. I’d like to see more 1st gen love.

 

It takes a lot of fluid to flush and fill. Its a bigger job than it looks doing these flush n’ fills which is what you want done. Then you have to figure on having a large pan to catch it and then take it up to recycle.

 

While I agree with you, the amount of buyers for 1st gen parts (especially us with double cabs that were only made for 3 years) is WAY less than 2nd and 3rd gen Tundras. To be honest I'm surprised they're even considering building any 1st gen stuff.

Regardless, I sent him a message. We'll see what he says.

 

Prepare for top heaviness feeling going around corners. My sway links rusted off and the truck took corners like a grandpa. I was doing old man 3 point turns making a simple merge and turn right. Drove it like that for 2 years until the recent front end work. Drives much better with the links connected, unless you are offroading full time.

 

Sun came back out and shined on me while tackling the fuel injector that was ‘stuck’. Was able to disconnect it doing finger yoga with some el cheapo pliers. Have piece of mind now. Will tackle the pulsator thingy next.

@bmf4069

Does your pulsator look like this? To remove you unscrew the top screw and it releases the entire assembly? Or, is there another nut under that cap? The exploded Toy diagrams are not detailed enough.


Anyone else familiar?

 

Figured out there is a nut under the pulsator. Looks to be 22mm. Tight getting leverage without removing all the hoses. Trying to minimize removal of so much stuff.

 

Yes cheaper, but now i have to figure out whats making the steering wheel shake when im going between 60mph and 70mph, alreadyvjad it aligned this past weekend. Any idea of where i should start

 

Might be out of round tires. Had that problem years ago with Dunflops and Firestones until I switched to Michelins. Could also be a balance issue with tire weights.

 

Tomorrows attack plan.

 

@Professional Hand Model only loosen the 22mm nut. The fuel line is in between the two washers and the pulsator sits on top. What are you about to do?

 

I'm pretty sure it's @BestGen that swears by Aisin. I'll get it.

Yeah, please save these pics and include them with others you take while in progress; this deserves a dedicated thread so the rest of us can find it.

 

Kinda personal don't ya think?

 

Now that you ask, it sounds very personal!

 

Removing the fuel rails to install some upgraded 12 hole fuel injectors. Does the pulsator completely come off and out of the top of fuel rail?

Looks like it does and will make the job way simpler. Trying to keep it simple and not have to cut the fuel line feeding the pulsator.

 

Thanks, ill just tell the tire shop Saturday to see of the can check the balance on them again

 

Yeah, it removes completely. If you're undoing all that, it's only 6 bolts and 4 nuts to pull the whole thing off. Well, and remove the TB and a few misc pieces.

 

I believe it can be done even with the throttle body intact. The banjo nuts (removal) on either side of the throttle body might make for a clean removal of the rail without removal of the TB.

Researching the pulsator, the screw on top is an adjustment calibration screw that controls a diaphram which controls fuel pulse abnormalities. I’ll be leaving that alone for now.

 

His answer: "Yeah, if we have time"

So I guess we better hope I pick a good week to drop the truck off