What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Iirc somebody recently redid their vacuum lines in the engine bay. Was there a kit for that, or does anyone else know?

 

Not sure what I'm missing here, but on my 2000 AC the 19" blade on the drivers side goes to the top of the windshield. If I put a 24" on there it would go over the top of the cab by 2". It looks like most of you talking about this have later FGs. Is that the difference?

 

I remember that too.
I thought they bought universal vacuum line because the oem lines were real pricey when you add them up.

 

Does anyone know the torque specs on the bumper receiver bolts (the 17mm ones that a factory tow hitch would bolt onto). These are the bolts on the frame on either side.

 

Mine are like yours as well, 19 inch.

I suppose 24" would be possible but it would have to be offset from center to cover the lower area of the windshield. I'm not sure how you would do that.

 

IIRC @CodyP has a DC and the windshields are different.

 

Yep, I feel like your comparisons would be a 16” wiper for you guys to see what I was talking about. The 19” didn’t clean much of the windshield at all.

 

You're thinking of me and Noah. I replaced most of mine with OEM lines. There is one that even McGeorge can't figure out. They sent the wrong part twice.

@Tundra2 can probably tell you more about the kit he bought.

 

Got this nicely buttoned up today. I think it looks pretty BA. A couple of things yet to do. Ended up drilling a small hole behind the license plate to run the cable for my backup camera. It looks pretty clean. Wiring up the license plate lights was relatively straightforward. I am going to try and find LED versions to match the rest of my lights. But yea, pretty happy, don't have to look at my dented bumper anymore and the chrome delete continues.

 

Buy or build? Looks great

 

I bought this -- it's a Tough Country TB0325T. Just added these pics to the armor thread as well.

 

I think a manual tubing bender for up to 2.5" .120 wall starts around $1600. Probably find a shop with a tubing bender and have them do it.

 

Helped my buddy install my new Kenwood head unit and added a backing camera today. Gotta figure out the reverse signal wire though. We found the 2 wire with the backing signal and speed wire, but for some reason putting it in reverse still isn't activating the camera. The camera works with the button push though. It's possible we didn't get a good connection with just trying to jam the wire into the little plug, so maybe I just need to cut the wire and get a good splice?

 

Your truck not qualify for frame replacement?

 

925 starting with 1 die for a RogueFab bender. Having a selection of Dies is expensive but benders arnt bad if you get use out of them. Hell RogueFab dies arnt even that bad compared to my JD2 model 32 dies.

Its the Dimple Dies, big compressor, and all the other things you just HAVE to get after to complete projects thatll really get ya. It helps to have a supporting wife that also wants armor....

 

This is from a 2003

 

Told ya!

 

I still can’t find a local willing to do it. If you dont mind post how much you took off when your done. I want to say 2-3mm right?

 

Double cabs are physically taller and have taller windshields if I remember right

 

This is exactly what I needed.

 

Back in 2012-2013, it did not. Since that time the wonderful state of of Massachusetts decided to switch from regular salt to brine.

 

I still haven't wired mine up yet, but to prepare for when I do, I saved the following links in my truck task list:

Camera reverse wire: See also: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...t-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-533#post-1629631
Also: https://www.tundras.com/threads/how...-from-receiver-to-camera-on-tail-light.68282/
Also: https://www.tundras.com/threads/02-daily-driver-weekend-camping-rig.47777/page-2#post-1656566​

 

Thanks! I read those threads and even may have found another comment by you with those links all together. I was able to locate that reverse signal up in the dash and would prefer to do that rather than tapping into a wire in the taillight. I was just hesitating to cut that nice stock plug off to make the junction. Probably just need to stop worrying about it!

 

Is it not something you can Posi-tap? Posi-taps are the "sane" (far less intrusive) way to feed off a stock wire so no splicing is required. Just makes a small penetration in the sheath, versus the super-shitty way other clamp-lock systems use.

 

I replaced both upper ball joints last night with moog and I can't get one of them seated all the way. I had a breaker bar on the ball joint press and cranked until I physically couldn't any more and I still have a 3-4mm gap on the underside of the steering knuckle. Any ideas?

They were both incredibly hard to get seated so I'm wondering if maybe OEM would be better.

 

I'm guessing the 80-90 LB range, but honestly, I would just tighten those firm. Maybe someone will disagree, but a standard length 3/4" driver length and no breaker bar to a firm pull should be just fine.

 

I've seen others say 3.0mm and 3.2mm in the brake thread, mine appear to need 2.6-2.8mm.

 

Mounted my gauge bracket. @Cummins3500 i barely notice the non covered grab hold hole.

 

Go cut a second set and send them my way for $$$ lol.

 

Yea. Torqued to 75 lbs. and that started distorting the washers. So not sure. Maybe I need new 17mm washers, perhaps? I was able to level the bumper by just having the center bolt moderately tight and then jacking up the rear end.



This is 1-week post suspension upgrade install including the extra weight of the new bumper. It looks pretty level to me, maybe still a little bit tall in front. We will see how much more it settles. May have to add another leaf in the back or replace the springs. I'm still leaning toward picking up a custom set of Alcans.