What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Valve Cover I believe

 

valve cover

 

I have no idea why I thought you lived in Alabama. I knew you liked TN but thought you lived across state lines.

Howdy neighbor.

 

B

We'll be in your neck of the woods a few times this fall, got season tickets. Unless they suck like they have for last 10 years, then we'll be selling some

 

Hmm… Not sure how I’ve never heard of this event but I miiiight have gotten the wheels turning with the wife.

 

Hell yeah!

 

Ugh. I went out to play a little today and noticed some gnarly CV popping on the passenger side.

I had a feeling this outer joint was bad back when I did the boots because it wasn’t nearly as smooth as the other one.

Regardless, can I buy a cage, race, bearings and rebuild? Or am I better off looking at a CVJ reman? These are OEM by the way.

 

I installed a good reman from NAPA. I think it was under $100 after core.

 

Anyone ever used the rough country coil overs on their double cab? I put them on my truck probably 4-5 months ago. They claimed 2.5” lift but not with the extra weight of bumper and winch plus some settling I’ve got a fair amount of rub. Debating on swapping these out with the 5100s and stock springs I have on the wife’s sequoia. Anyone ever tried the 5100s all the way up on DC? Thinking it would offset the extra weight hanging off the front

 

If you're 4x4 then you can't use the top circlip location. Bottom (#1) is stock, then you can go only the next 3 locations.
https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/...able-5100-shocks-for-2000-2006-toyota-tundra/

 

Well, that's different. Wonder if some of the water I spilled in the engine bay triggered this, or if it's a left over code from the overheat yesterday. Still says pending after all...

No light. Just pulled codes because I was looking at live values.

 

Simply means it has happened at least one time as it goes thru a drive cycle(Readiness Monitor Drive Pattern). Eventually it will either clear during future drive cycles or it won't. If it continues, swap the 2 rear O2's and see if problem switches to passenger side(P0156).

 

Appreciate the info! Didn't know codes could clear on their own if the error condition was not detected again. Only one rear sensor on V6.

 

It can take a few drive cycles but some will clear if it doesn't happen again....gas cap for example and in your case hopefully, O2 sensor.

 

Gas cap, and oxygen senior are less than 2 years old. My "Cadillac" converter is bad, and I have an oxygen sensor extender/fouler on it to keep the P0420 code way. Post about install quoted below.

Here's hoping that the next oil change isn't Watery...

 

I got the fluid changed in my differential and transfer case today. Apparently, the diff was "very dirty".

 

Have you considered removing that "Cadillac" converter entirely? I bet your v6 would breathe a lot better afterwards. Enough of those antifoulers will keep your o2 senior from noticing the change as well.

 

Little engine bay cleaning didn't hurt...

 

Just ordered a new driver side door check for the Tundra and some other misc parts including air filter and cabin filter for the Rav. Took advantage of the free shipping they are still offering. I hope they continue that.

 

@Legender My OCD approves. You should sand and paint that battery hold down bracket. I did that to mine. It seems like a common area for them to rust.

 

Thanks, pretty much gone on one side. Looking for a replacement. I think too much sanding would cause it to disappear.

 

In that case,

https://www.tundras.com/threads/custom-battery-hold-down-brackets-for-1st-gen.67066/

 

Will that shine attract dust? I have always been hesitant to do anything after cleaning.

 

I'm assuming that it would but I don't live in dusty area so no experience there. Would think a little light spray would rinse it off, but have not tried it.

 

ive been thinking about getting cvj’s and rebuilding the stockers. But theres not enough price differencing a rebuild + core charge & shipping. Vs an extra pair of new axles.

ill eat that core charge and use these to start a 4wd squaw build.

 

In my experience it really helps if you use a product that isn't oil based. That's where you get more dust. Plus I've heard those products are bad for rubber long term. I like Silk Shine By Chemical Guys.

 

That sounds a lot like the interior detailer from Griots.

There is this product that I have not tried.
https://www.griotsgarage.com/product/engine+bay+dressing+12.5+ounces.do?sortby=ourPicks&from=fn

 

Finally swapped rear shocks. Huge difference rear shocks were so jacked that they didn't extend after compressing once off truck. Guess that's where the "bounciness" was coming from. https://www.tundras.com/threads/hi06silvers-unf-ck-my-tuff-country-lift-thread.90187/#post-2270570

 

Who sells those plates for the door check? I was checking mine yesterday and I’m starting to see the tiniest of cracks