Turbo Charging A Tundra!

I know we are straying from being pig rich but I still cringe a bit when I see anything near 12 afr with this 5.7.

 

Keep in mind I’m only doing pulls from 2500-4500rpm at the moment and only a couple at a time but yes I agree. We are shooting for mid 11’s off meth.

 

Remind me, was having the meth because it was stage 1 without the intercooler?

 

I’m stage 2 intercooled with meth. I wanted the meth for the extra fuel and cooling when towing in the summer.

 

Props for having the willpower to stop at 4500 lol. Once all fluids are warmed up and that voice inside my head says "pin it", I can't let off till it shifts at red line or I hit the speed limit. Whichever comes second . It keeps my engine young and healthy... (at least that's what the voice in my head says)

 

I’m itching to just stomp it from a light and let it run. Especially now that I’m at 6psi.

 

Want to borrow a Dragy?

 

Maybe. Looking at the last log and it looks like we are at the point I'm about to have to start adding meth to keep the afr's in check. Got another tune and am knocking the duty cycle down to 20% from 22% before we make that determination and then starting higher rpm pulls.

@bflooks how did you set the scg1 up when you were towing? I'm dragging the rzr out this weekend and while trailer and buggy is only ~3500lbs, lots of hills up and down and various speeds. Did you dial the boost back when towing or did you just leave it at max boost and let her go? I generally tow in s5.

 

I actually just left it be, but I was limited via tune because I was on Stage 1.

90% of the time you'll be under or at 0.0psi.

When you get into it, you'll be able to control it via throttle. Just remember that you also have the manual spring to drop to if you have any doubts or feel the boost is too high. With a lower profile and less than 1/2 the weight, you'll be fine.

 

Kinda what I figured. I'll see how it goes tuning this week (work really needs to stop bothering me) and decide if I shut it off or let it run.

 

You've got this. The biggest thing, IMO, is to make sure you have that turbo blanket on and that you plan appropriately when stopping or fueling. Give it a minute or two before cutting it off.

 

It’s a short 100 mile round trip with plenty of stations around. Not like my AZ trip where it may be 200 miles between stations or towns. Some of the towns we drove through didn’t even have gas stations. Wife thought I was nuts filling up every time I saw a station but no way I was gonna get stranded in middle of nowhere with no cell signal. Be one thing if I got 20mpg but I get 12 so not chancing it haha.

 

I never go below 1/4 tank while towing for the reasons you describe. 100 miles is nothing, but it'll give you a good chance to cook the blanket and wrap and get used to what is normal smell for a hot turbo. Congrats on the short shakedown run! I know my words don't help much, but I assure you, the Stage 2 tuning is so far beyond what I was towing with last season, and I had zero issues. Pack an extra gallon or 2 of boost juice and you'll have not a care in the world. Only reason I'm saying to pack extra is in case you realize its thirsty and you need/want to dial the AEM in differently. Small footprint for your peace of mind. With Stage 2, you don't really need it, but I wouldn't be passing on the opportunity to test that part with such a short and light tow.

 

I’m not worried. Got the new tune loaded and will pull logs in the morning. I’m excited to see how it pulls.

 

And I'm sure you know but if you run out of boost juice straight water will help keep the IAT's down. A lot of people will spray water just for that effect.

 

Yes. Regular cheap old blue windshield washer fluid works in a pinch also since it’s just methanol and water. The lower the freezing point the higher the meth content. Used to run it all the time in my Cummins.

But it’s not the IAT’s that are the issue, it’s the AFR. With the intercooler I’m holding about 5* above ambient while in boost so no worry there.

 

I wanted the shortest run and nothing in my bed so just used my windshield tank. A 50/50 mix is safe for paint/clearcoat. It's what I've been running for about 30% methanol. You can also add 2 bottles of Heet to bring it up to 45% and 3 for 48%. Which adds up to only $7.50 per gallon. Denatured alcohol(more of an ethanol mix but in a pinch) works too...

 

That's exactly what I did on my diesel was use the windshield washer tank.

 

Nice write-up @TurboKits !!

https://www.turbokits.com/blog/post/turbochargers-repair-vs-replace

For anyone who isn't tracking, I recently called Jesse to discuss exactly this topic since I have a little bit of down time remaining while XAT waits on the machine shop before building my long block. Despite my motor locking up due to the water/methanol issue, and despite that same oil mixture being pumped through the turbo, the turbo itself was still free-spinning. Enter the discussion about an inspection at a minimum, to just committing to a rebuild while it is out of the truck. We're talking 10-20% the cost of a new replacement, which is why I chose this option. 10 bolts and the rotating assembly is ready to get well wrapped and shipped off. Then it literally just slides back in and the 10 bolts hold it all together. Aside from cleaning the oil supply line, there's not much else to be done to it. Not that I was looking to get into it this early, but it is a pretty sweet setup from a serviceability perspective.

 

Your ears must have been ringing. I just got the weights & dims from ECS to ship the turbo down for inspection and refresh

 

I'm assuming there's a benefit to running a richer AFR with the water meth compared to just doing it directly with the injectors?

 

Actually, quite the opposite, since the water meth brings up the active octane rating and cools the charge, you can typically run a leaner AFR with the same margin of safety as pump gas. The Water meth controller is progressive, meaning it only sprays when IN BOOST and we usually don't start it until about 2 PSI, maxing at peak boost. You could pretty much drive across the country and not use a drop, if you stay out of boost, or once you are in it, you get all the benefits, but only when you need it. We consider it like running 100oct fuel, but only when you need it.

Now, what BFloos and Centex are doing it adding the METH on top of the finished tune for safety. So in those cases, yes the AFRs will be a tad more rich than just with pump gas only. But then they still get all the safety benefits.

 

Of course I get the go ahead to do my first full gear pull and the weather decided to roll in early.

 

Even though I just use the snow on/off switch. It starts spraying at 8psi for added safety, especially if I hit 13-14psi.

 

So, what would you say the most boost you have seen on a reliable stock 5.7? I've seen these nearly mid-teens a few times now and I I just don't have a good baseline of who is truly running what #s.

The piston rods going into the build are good for 1400hp. Pistons are slightly lower comoression and are better alloys to hold up to the added heat, rings will be gapped appropriately for boost, springs and retainers are upgraded. I was thinking your numbers would be my upper limits, but now I'm confused.

 

Keep in mind that 14psi from a supercharger isn’t the same as 14psi from a turbo charger.

 

Oh, aware, but we're only off by 1-2 psi. For a fully built motor vs stock discussion, that isn't going to change anything. Nobody is spending the cost of this long block for 30-60hp (I guess there is one asshole in this room that might be, but I'm hoping to learn it's not as silly as it might sound in my head right now lol)

 

You'll be limited by the transmission for your peak power. One would imagine 15psi+ for you and Jesse can work the numbers for your peak power. I routinely see 12.5-13.2psi, spraying 30/70(w to m) 500cc full flow from 8psi on up. I did see 14+psi with cats but without been only hitting 13.

The turbo will be making torque must faster than the SC and usually my 14 maybe like your 8-10. You would have to compare properly sized systems. My tvs 1900 wouldn't be a good comparison for the turbokits one. Maybe a 2650's or Whipple is better since I experience more parasitic loss at the upper range from heat etc.

 

No lie on the torque. It’s hard to describe how hard it comes on when you jump on it. If I can get a video to record with audio I’ll post it but I keep forgetting to disconnect CarPlay before making the video.