Turbo Charging A Tundra!

can you connect it there then try the other end???

 

Love that sound!

 

That’s a good thought. I’ll try that when I get back from the store. From what I can see, if I can rotate the top down pipe a little farther it’ll line up better so I’m grabbing a better cut off tool to trim the fender.

 

Wtf. I can get the v band on now but no matter which way I twist it I can’t get the things to seat. It’s almost like they are warped.

 

Well it’s in but I’m not thrilled. Emailed Jesse to expedite me a new one because we leave for a 12hr road trip Friday. I’m gonna go ahead and order some 1.5” wheel spacers like I told myself to last night.



Just to be clear, this is not a problem with the kit. Just something you have to deal with when you run oversized tires and aftermarket wheels and try to modify things designed to fit a certain way.

 

It’s amazing the amount of tools you need in order to do one simple thing.

 

Yep I’ll be snagging these lol

 

Holy Moly!!!! You smashed IT!!!

 

And it leaks but whatever. It’s down stream of the wideband and primary o2’s so whatever. It’ll drive and it’ll tune and it’ll run. Maybe I should just remove it and do a fender exit.

 

Ya I had to. I’d lost 1/4-1/2 turn on my steering. I started small with just a hammer trying to dent it but it wasn’t making enough of a difference. That’s why I decided to pull it off and put the press on it and turn a 1hr project into a 5hr project.

 

Yeah, did you hear that pipe up at all first? Like glowing red hot?

So, the cone I was mentioning for the front of the turbo is called the T51R mod. Would be cool around town but similar to the screamer pipe of the waste gate, I just couldn't do it with the towing.

 

I ordered last week but I was cool with waiting on shipping as they wanted to take some pics for how they sit in the rails. Should be heading out west on Monday. I'll post some install pics.

 

I got it red hot and pulled it with a ratchet strap and that got me 90% of the way. Then I cut the pipe on the inside of the 90* to get it the rest of the way but there must be some really tiny angle that’s still not quite right to get the flanges to line up perfectly. I loosened all the pipes and tried to mate them up but no go. Oh well.

 

T51R mod all the way!

 

Jesse has a video posted somewhere on his site about it. It amplifies that turbo sound.

 

Well the pipe doesn’t rattle on the frame but the tire still hits. I’ve got some 1” spacers coming from a member to help that problem.

I remembered this weekend that Jesse said they had a bad storm and lost power to the shop from a tree which means he may not be able to make me a replacement pipe in time before I leave for my trip.

So my thinking on this is to unbolt the downpipe from the turbo completely, get it bolted to the lower downpipe firmly, and then put a slice in the lower pipe about 3/4 of the way through, bolt the top down pipe back to the turbo, and then weld up the lower downpipe. With the slice in there I should be able to bend the pipe enough so that everything fits back right. Thoughts?

 

It’s been said before but I’ll say it again, Jesse and @TurboKits are nothing but stand up people and company. He just pinged me and is going to overnight the pipe from their test truck so I can get mine back to a 100%. These folks rock!

 

https://youtu.be/AV1RFWRsWpQ?si=TjOujXVdRJwk99W9

Nice!

 

This.

I know I've been singing their praises for a long time now, but it is for reason. He and the company are standing up, top notch entities. Knowledge, integrity, grace are some of the words that come to mind.

Glad others are getting to experience it as well.

 

Wonder if they make turbo kits for a k5 blazer?

 

@centex - depending on tire size and wheel offset, you may always have a little rub on that one side. Even with some clearancing and 1" spacers I still have the tiniest bit, but I have 90% of my wheel turn back before then, and it no longer binds up or feels like I've hit a steering stop.

Hope that helps manage expectations.

 

Tires are 275/65/20. Wheels are some aftermarket moto’s that I have zero clue on spacing or anything as they came with the truck.

That’s easy enough to manage or grab a bigger set of spacers or a small dent in the pipe. My original issue is I’d lost a good amount of turn to the right. I get 1.25 turns and I rub the pipe. And it rubbed on a solid 6” of the pipe and that’s with the pipe all the way against the frame. So I had to really go to town to get this thing some clearance hence why I switched to the press instead of a socket and hammer and ended up where I did.

Lesson learned, when I go to clearance the pipe, it stays on the truck.

Second lesson learned, do more burn outs to need an excuse to buy the wheel and tire combo that makes you happy.

 

Aren’t these the wheels you have, as seen in your gears thread? Sorry, I’m a wheel nerd and I’m always changing mine up. If so it would make them a +18 offset which is what my wheels are. It’s more aggressive than many like so as it is, most here seem to like a +25 offset. I like the more aggressive look myself and mostly have had 0 offset wheels in the past. +18 is tame for me. Maybe as you shop, you should be looking for 0 offsets also in the future. If you’re using 1” spacers it should basically make those +18s a -7.4 offset.

https://www.trailbuiltoffroad.com/b...7830&msclkid=f65a45ee9aae1fd67f742220dd3cf1a5

 

That looks like them.

 

It's called the T51R mod, it adds a billet machined insert to the compressor of the turbo to amplify the whistle... Here is a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV1RFWRsWpQ

 

Replacement downpipe is on the way. The timing couldn't have worked out better, as we'll take that one back and fix it and put it on the 2016 TRD Pro. That way there isn't a charge for the replacement

We will look into possibly adding an oval piece there in production or pre-clearance them moving forward. The trick is heat and a big socket or cast pipe. If you use a press, it can throw off the angle, as you are well aware of. Glad you were able to at least get it back on and running, so you weren't stranded tho!

 

Thanks guys!!!

 

Was talking to a buddy that has a couple of turbo’d cars and we got on the subject of oil weight. I know I know. Anyways, he’s always been told to run 5w-40. I’m running 5w-20. Bflooks did sampling and didn’t see issues. Any thoughts?

I’m bored and haven’t done much but driving back and forth as I don’t want to risk blowing the down pipe out so thought I’d stir some conversation. Can’t wait for tomorrow when the pipe arrives and I can get a log on the PE tune right before I go on a 1600 mile round trip.

 

I've always ran 5w-40 in summer and 5w-30 in summer. The last 2 changes I ran a heavy 30. Mixed half 30 with half 40, same brand 12.6 cst @100c.
When your bored you start thinking too much...
Bet you'll be glad to get PE sorted out for your trip.

 

I'm hesitant to try things outside of what is recommended by Toyota. It only took me 5+ years to change to 5w-30. The idea of 5w-40 is intriguing, but it'll be a few years before I'm ready for that. XAT says to use factory weight, so I'll be either be at 0-20, 5-20, or 5-30 for the foreseeable future. At 5k miles OCIs, it's getting swapped before the additives are depleted, so I'm not sure any of it truly matters, and with the XAT high flow oil pump, it'll be moving more anyways.

That could actually be the real discussion. Is this more appropriate for FI vehicles? More so than oil weight?

https://xatracing.com/XAT-3UR-modified-oil-pump.html