Turbo Charging A Tundra!

Check me on this. For the boost sensor, do I run a tap off of the top hose from the wastegate into the sensor and then out of the sensor I tap into the hose from the bottom port of the wastegate that’s going to the turbo?

Or do I run the top port hose straight to the sensor and it doesn’t get tapped into the engine vacuum line?

 

Good chatting with you. I'll go over a few of the important parts.

1) There are 4 pressure ports on the wastegate. One top port and one bottom port need to be capped off. Failure to do so will stop the boost from opening the wastegate at the proper boost level.
2) The bottom port of the wastegate is how the wastegate open to control the exhaust flow and boost. It uses boost pressure to overcome a spring and open the valve to vent exhaust around the turbo, keeping the shaft speed at the desired level for the desired boost. If you do not connect this, or worse connect ONLY the top port. You can overboost and damage your motor, trans and / or the turbo system.
3) There are 2 ways to run the lines, you can either run them off the compressor of the turbo, to the wastegate and/or the SCG1 (insert any boost controller here). This creates a closed loop system where the wastegate is receiving the signal the turbo is creating, right at the source. Which sounds like a great way to do it. However, we suggest using the supplied NPT plug, to cap off the port on the compressor of the turbo and run the wastegate control and/or your boost controller from the same signal line off the throttle body. The reason for this, especially for the stage 2 guys, you do have a pressure drop through the piping and intercooler, this is normal, the turbo easily makes up for it and you never really know. However, if your wastegate is getting it's signal from the turbo, but your boost gauge is getting your reading from the motor, you can and will see that pressure drop. So we like to set the wastegate / boost control up from the same signal your gauge will display to keep things consistent.
4) Once you have your main vacuum / boost signal off the back of the throttle body line. This can be split multiple times to make all of your connections, ie: Rail regulator, BOV, Water Meth, Boost Gauge and the Wastegate and Solenoid of you have.

Here is a crude picture. Let us know if anyone has any questions. This is a pretty important step to the installation, so we will be happy to clarify. We are about to start the install on the 2016 TRD Pro this week, so we will make a video of the vacuum / boost signal routing when we get to that step.

 

She’s alive!!

 

oh man! can't wait to hear about your feedback once things get ironed out on the tune. i can't imagine you're very far off given the library Jesse has built.

 

Got some pipe tweaking to do. First test drive was successful. Now to let my overly paranoid nerves calm down and get to some real testing tomorrow.

 

I forgot how bad the factory throttle and shift maps are. Been running OTT for over a year now and wow. Definitely going to have to see if they’ll work with Jesse and combine the maps.

 

Some of that will smooth out as we dial in the tune on our end as well, but 100%, were hardware guys, so the more tuners that can support the kit, the better. We would love to work with them... Maybe they can teach us something cool that makes it all better for every customer.

 

Popped a check engine light this morning and then the pre-collision system malfunction and trailer brake malfunction popped off. I cleared the codes and the CEL went off but the pre-collision and trailer brake malfunction are still flashing. I’m assuming this is Toyota’s way of scaring you into taking the truck to the dealer immediately?

 

Yes, 100%, reset and get me a longer driving log and I’ll dial it in. Since the upgraded MAF voltage breakpoints on the sheet included don’t have every voltage point in the MAPPING. We have to interpolate and then adjust based on the logs. This doesn’t take long to get it dialed in and I would think I can have the codes go away for good, within only a few revisions

The trailer brake and collision system warning are normal. Toyota loves to light up the dash like a Christmas Tree on certain codes. Forces people to go to the dealer! LOL

So yes, get me some logs and I’ll have that adjusted out pretty quick.

 

That's what I assumed. The CEL wasn't unexpected but the rest of them was a wtf moment for sure haha.

 

Yeah, Toyota has a range of CELs that also trigger the other lights. I understand tho, if a stock truck got those codes, something MAJOR would be wrong, so it's good to do it. However, since we know we are dialing in the voltages to match the upgraded sensor, they are to be expected for the first few drives.

 

That happened on my '21 (not this particular issue) and I went down this huge rabbit hole troubleshooting tree that starts with the TB, ended up being the fuel pump. I hate how they do the dash warning like that!

 

Mmmmm boost juice.

Put 20 or so miles on the truck today. Seems to be running good. Sent Jesse some logs. I keep inspecting everything every time I stop and everything seems to be ok. I can touch the relay box and it’s cool to the touch. Same with the fender and brake lines. That main wiring harness across the firewall is warmer but not too hot to touch. Be glad when everything finishes burning in and stops smoking. I need to adjust the up pipe slightly for a better connection (not leaking but not square) and the second down pipe to try and get more tire clearance. Otherwise, this thing seems to be doing ok.

I’m really hating this trans and throttle mapping. Can’t wait to finish engine tuning and start messing with the throttle and trans stuff.

 

Oooooh Yeah! Congratulations! Incredibly high elation, I'm sure!

 

Shout out to @TurboKits. My water meth kit came with the 250cc nozzle installed instead of the 500cc and the kit didn’t come with the extra nozzles. Jesse found one in the stash and shipped it out. Thank you.

 

Awesome! Congrats!! What about the sound?

 

I knew the exhaust would be quieter but not this quiet. I’m running the SPD and it was the perfect rowdy before but now it’s as quiet as my Borla pro xs was. Still sounds good just much quieter. Haven’t gotten it much above 3000rpm and no boost so haven’t heard it at full boogie. The turbo makes a nice subtle whistle as you start loading it up. I can’t wait to feed this pig and see what it sounds like at full throttle.

 

I'm swallowing my emotions after seeing your boost juice photo. Congrats, though! Hurry up already and get a turbocharged Tundra below 5.0s.

 

I figured you would but boost juice is just to cool to not show off.

Did y’all ever figure out what happened with your stuff?

 

Nope. But for the cost of the repair, I won't be running it for a long time. If anyone local needs Boost Juice, let me know. I'm sitting on 12'ish gallons.

 

Got my meth nozzle and some kick ass air fresheners!

 

Nothing exciting but more logging and driving. On a second round of tune. Upgraded my mpvi2 to the pro and got the Prolink cable so we can log AFR and boost. Truck is running great. Turbo is making noises. Can’t wait to bring this thing into boost and start having fun.

 

Did you already order a Dragy?

If not, it's a great tool. Not just for bragging rights and such, but for other reasons. Example, my truck was launching anywhere between .75 and 1.0 Gs, holding close to .5 G the entire 0-60 run. I'm curious to see how that all looks with the upgraded valve body. It's also a different way to track the performance of the tune.

I'm excited to hear your thoughts once the tune is dialed in. The Stage 2 tune that Jesse ended up working on this past fall/early winter woke the truck up everywhere Stage 1 didn't. It's definitely getting dialed in.

 

Nice! Quick question. Regarding the Pro-link setup, I see we can get AFR analog signal from SCG gauge yellow wire. Where can we get the analog signal for boost?

 

No draggy. Not certain I’ll order one either. There’s a drag strip about an hour from me I may visit once done though. I can’t wait to start dialing in the boost.

You’ll need grab the wire from the scg1 harness for the MAP sensor.

 

The MAP sensor harness has 3 wires, white, red, and black. I am assuming we should pick the white wire?



Different colors in gauge harness...

 

Yes. White wire.

 

Thank you!

 

Not sure if the formula has been updated in hpt? But this is what I saw when he discussed it.

 

Gotta smooth it too or it will look like a Seismograph during an earthquake! - (Input / .0689655 ) + (-21.75) - 100ms smoothing