Turbo Charging A Tundra!

Banks performance makes a similar intake portion for the dirtymax.

 

It depends on the efficiency of the overall systems compared. Both have parasitic losses and both are creating excess heat (the engine is combusting more fuel than NA) and stress.

The blower is loading the engine via the crankshaft to make more power than it uses to turn the rotors.

The turbo is using waste energy in the form of heat and pressure to increase boost but by doing so is also a restriction on the exhaust. This increases back pressure and increases heat in the cylinders which is effectively lowering VE.

You can argue a turbo is more efficient overall since it is recuperating wasted energy from the exhaust which is why Holdener says Turbo>Twincharger>Supercharger>NA for performance.

Not sure I understand your emphasis on external vs internal. Are you referring to the need to use a turbo blanket to manage heat in the engine bay?

If you go back and look at the warning from the other aftermarket turbo company, those are rear/remote mounted so the heat warning about engine damage isn't from being in close proximity to the turbo. The warning is referring to running boost for longer times under load like towing, a condition you wont see in most day to day errand and commute driving. As the other poster pointed out you have limited options on how to cool the engine to counteract the added heat.

This video addresses some of the points you are making:
https://youtu.be/IpzqpjmOSB8

 

So,,,, now that the Stage 1 is complete/finished, it is now on to Stage 2. Me putting any bad mojo on anything is over too. I am pretty sure the plan is to get after the Stage2 this coming week and once that is all put together it will be time to tune. Pretty sure the tune will go faster this time which means this part will have a quicker finish!! That is what I am hoping for?

 

93 octane fuel? What gas mileage are you getting? Just curiuos.

 

Do not have any idea about MPG/SPG as the truck is in process of the Stage 2 build.

This is an on going dealyO, the Stage 1 was the first step of two. The second is the Stage 2. Both Stage 1 and 2 will be offered as kits for mods on the Tundras.

 

I remember seeing some pricing very early on but it was removed shortly after.

 

@TurboKits.com What’s the deal with the air filter? I’m guessing that with the stage 2 kit, the piping prohibits using the stock intake box and filter. What about stage 1? I know this may be a silly inquiry, but does your kit make allowance for a cold air intake such as the factory intake is a cold air intake? I’m not a fan of the filter open to under hood environment and temperatures.

Also, do you have any experience and/or data with this kit configured for towing? A fast truck is fun, but I kinda drive like an old man sometimes. But when I tow, I like having more power than I need. Among the other trailers that I use, I pull my extra height enclosed most often, and it’s usually with a head wind no matter which direction I’m headed. The truck manages it fine, but it would be nice to have a little extra oomph in the power band before downshifting to the next gear.

 

Excuse my dingus looking photo edit, but I was thinking that cutting a hole in this plastic shield and sticking the cone filter at least half way out would really lower the IATs. It would probably need a rain/water shield of sorts though.

 

Soooo, as I was saying I just got done erecting this cold air intake and I’m looking for feedback….

 

I'll cross post the Holdener vid where he talks about IATs. The TLDW/BLUF is you may loose some HP on the little end but it wont make a difference on the big end.

 

They did cut a hole in there somewhere in front of the turbo. It will get plenty of air, more I would think than a couple of them pictures I posted with turbos. It’s all a tight fit in there, real-estate is a premium!!

 

Is the turbo only pulling from one side of the exhaust? Wouldn't it be more efficient to run dual turbos one using each side of the exhaust?

 

It is using both banks.

 

Wasn’t that video (assuming it’s the one you posted on the GS thread earlier) about coolant temp and not IATs? Power aside, I’d say the detonation/knock from hot IATs is the bigger factor over the decreased performance.

 

I'll have to look again I was on a binge watch and may have linked the wrong vid.

 

Only room for one turbo,,,, and I am not sure but in the beginning posts I do believe there is a crossover,,,, maybe not??

 

That’s what I recall gleaning from the video having watched it a while back. And that is also one of my main concerns with the air filter soaking it all up in the middle of the engine bay - detonation. Placing the filter there doesn’t hurt much on a 10 or 20 second dyno pull or hot rodding around town or on the freeway on ramp , but 10 minutes pulling a grade with a loaded trailer on a hot windy day and that just smells like a recipe for disaster, IMO. That engine heats up real quick with the extra power it’s required to make; that heat rapidly soaks in to the transmission; then the radiators are asked to cool those two components as quickly as possible by pushing already hot air through hot radiating surfaces marking an already hot engine bay even hotter, just for a compressor to compress the already hot hot air into even hotter hot hot air so that it can cooled by an already hot hot intercooler in order to be mixed and exploded into even more heat that gets pushed back through the compressor already compressing the hotter hot hot air…. Blehhh. I feel like I missed an iteration of hotter hot hot hotter air something in there…

Anyways, heat is the enemy to the towing game so I feel like you are starting at a disadvantage using preheated hot air to fuel the engine. Loss in performance aside (I just need enough power to pull the hill, not spin the rollers and make the biggest number), it just sounds like there is a simple solution to what could cook an engine unnecessarily.

I mean, I had an old Ford with the air filter lid flipped upside cuz that’s what all the cool kids did; the carb would ice over in the winter and hard start/knock/vapor like like mad in the summer. One day, my mechanic friend poked fun at me for flooding the engine while pretending the truck was a submarine in a “mudpuddle”. Luckily I just soaked the distributor and got the air filter sopping wet enough that it still held it’s structure but didn’t hydrolock the motor. He half jokingly pulled out some dryer duct and fabbed up the factory air intake from the air cleaner assembly to the air inlet at the radiator support. I never had issues with the truck vapor locking or injecting fluid again. I eventually replaced it with the factory piece but swapped it over to his dryer vent contraption whenever I brought it to him to look at.

My other concern is weather. We get four seasons. My engine is filthy. Dirt, much, rain, snow, slush, slushy rain, slushy snow, slushy, mud, muckedy slushy dirt rain… it all gets splooshed up in to the engine bay at some point. That filter would hate me there. My engine would hate me. So certainly there is a better solution.

Maybe I’m making too much of it, but that just doesn’t look like a great solution. I’ve had several friends stuck on the side of the road when their aftermarket “cold air intake” that really pulls air from the engine bay crapped out due to weather. One of the filters folded over on itself in an ‘S’ bend like pinching off a garden hose. That was fun.

 

HHahha

 

IAT temps matter. I’ve tested this and proven it cuts power etc. Keep that out of the engine bay at some point it’ll help. Lots of videos on this from Gale banks and others.

 

Stage 1 kit, straight shot, water meth doing the cooling.

Stage 2 kit, intercooled & optional water meth for cooling.

The turbo gets fresh air from the front while moving on either kit:

 

Single 76mm Turbo, crossing over both banks of cylinders so that all 8 run the turbo.

 

Not a lot of room for skid plates under there

 

This truck had a skid plate / CAT protector and we do feel with some minimal trimming it will all go back on and cover it up. Maybe just the angle of the pic..

 

Trimming of the exhaust system?

 

In the grand scheme of things isn’t that small opening for cool air kind of peeing in the wind? I just say that because the turbo is centrally located in a 200 degree oven that is the engine bay. A majority of the air entering the engine bay through the front grille while in motion is largely coming through the big 200 degree radiator/trans cooler and picking up more heat before getting sucked into the turbo inlet. I’m just curious what IATs are being seen at the MAF under normal driving/WOT pulls or even a hood closed dyno run compared to ambient. I know methanol injection works. It it just seems less than optimal to slug down methanol just to shed the heat from the hot engine bay let alone cool it down further from the added heat of compression.

 

Just because people run open air elements doesn’t make it optimal lol. Just an easy solution. No one takes the time to enclose and seal etc. but that’s the case in many other things with modifications we do.

 

Just because a number of souls do it must mean it somehow works just fine without major damage to an engine?? The numbers are fine if they were not there would be no dyno run or progression on to the second stage.

 

It will have hot air on the engine side and cold on the wheel well side sort of like this: