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Tundra2's lifetime project

Discussion in '1st Gen Builds (2000-2006)' started by Tundra2, Apr 19, 2020.

  1. Jul 5, 2020 at 4:07 PM
    #31
    Tundra2

    Tundra2 [OP] Zoinked

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    Drove down to @FirstGenVol's stomping ground. Helped him install his Brute Force Fab bumper in exchange for his "old" one. Replaced my front bumper with his old one.

    Here are pictures of my bumper before removal.
    1Old Bump wid lights.jpg 20200629_200118.jpg 20200629_200107.jpg Below is a side shot of my drivers side fender. The seam damage is from a deer impact in mid August, 2019. (Pics attached.)
    20200627_153414.jpg
    20190806_064719.jpg 20190806_064729.jpg 20190806_064657.jpg
    ^The deer impact was 20-30 mph. Bent my fender, and pushed my bumper into my tires. For immediate repair at the time I pulled the bumper back out with a ratchet strap, and a tree.20200630_171126.jpg 20200705_102828.jpg 20200630_214842.jpg
    ^After settling back in from my day trip to help Erik out, I decided it best to paint the "skid plate bar" (left in last pic), and the bumper support (right in last pic)20200701_075512.jpg
    ^Started the tear down the next day by removing the deer guard first. Thankfully, when I installed my light bar I left plenty of cord for just such an occasion as this.20200701_083337.jpg
    ^Here is everything dismantled. At this point I discovered the "bumper filler" (painted bar below headlights) was loose on driver's side. Tightened all 10 mm nuts that were loose. From here I continued my frame inspection, and grease rub.20200701_085340.jpg
    I put my camera lens close to the hole marked with a green arrow, and shined a flashlight into the frame with my other hand. Started taking pictures. Starting on the driver's side.20200701_084759.jpg 20200701_084844.jpg
    ^This is NG situation. Sprayed Ospho metal treatment inside the frame, and spritzed some in with a misting spray bottle. Waited for the "fizzing" to stop, and then sprayed PB Blast inside the frame. Followed by Red'n'tacky spray grease in the aerosol can.I hope that was enough to last me a few years.
    20200701_085301.jpg
    ^This is the passenger's side. For some reason this one has fared much better through the years. It got the same PB blast, and grease treatment.
    20200701_104440.jpg
    ^Relocated my Transmission cooler to a better spot for airflow.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F7nnxf1LVCc
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwRiJy4GLvo
    Below is a shot of completed trans move with as close to the same angle as I could get.20200701_104457.jpg 20200701_104346.jpg
    ^The rags are temporary vibration absorb-ers until @lsaami's OG trans cooler arrives.
    Before installing the new bumper I took a minute adjust my fender, and see if I could get the "door seam" to fall back into place.20200701_133544.jpg
    :yes:
    Below is a video of installation of new to me bumper.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTvhO_zMq-4
    I also tried to pull out the bend in the lower bar of my deer guard.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3VwGKpe2-o
    Finally, here is the result. 20200703_214933.jpg
     
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  2. Jul 5, 2020 at 4:56 PM
    #32
    Tundra2

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    Next project on the agenda was the dash cam wiring kit. Started by removing all things on the head liner. Sun visors, lights, grab handles, trim pieces, top seat belt mounts, etc. Sorry, no pics of this process. 20200701_193120.jpg After removing all of that I tilted both front seats down, and carefully removed the headliner. 20200701_193240.jpg
    Once the headliner was out... I tested to make sure my new fuse block tap actually worked. In hindsight, I should have done this first. Regardless, it worked! Removed lower kick panel for better access during install.
    20200701_211856.jpg
    I took a break from crouching to work on the roof. Taped up the loose wires between roof, and head liner.
    20200701_212346.jpg
    Below is my set-up for pulling the cord through the dash. 24 inch long zip tie. Fed the zip-tie through the dash with ease!
    20200701_202522.jpg
    Once it was fed through, I started working on cable management. Followed the Original wiring harness up the drivers side pillar, and into the roof. Looped it around the wiring harness. Blue line is a close representation of cable route. RED arrow is the origin of the High mount stop light/cargo light. Wires run from there to the stop light in a slight "diagonal" line.20200705_120955.jpg
    After I had the cable set up the way I wanted with enough slack at both ends as strain relief, I taped the cable to the OEM harness in red locations.
    20200701_210624.jpg
    Started going back together with the head liner. Put headliner back in, and started putting trim, visors, etc back in. While all the electrical connections were exposed I touched them up with electrical grease. Took the lever apart on center dome light for lube service.
    20200701_221642.jpg
    The ball is held in place by a spring in the lever. Upon rotation of the lever to desired location ball will fall into the "track," or seam between the electrical connectors. The mounting screws are your ground. Without it mounted the "ON" function won't work. Only the door function. Do not be fooled by it, because I was. :D
    20200701_222607.jpg
    20200701_223840.jpg
    Do not misplace any of the three tabs for the rear of the liner. I misplaced one, and spent 20-ish minutes looking for it, before giving up. Continued with the install, and happened to find it. :rofl:
    Continued on with the install until all was in place. No pics of full headliner, but I do have a picture of the final product.20200702_181013.jpg
    Sweet-ness!​
     
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  3. Jul 5, 2020 at 5:11 PM
    #33
    Tundra2

    Tundra2 [OP] Zoinked

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    Next project! Tail light wiring, and rear breather relocation mod.
    Here is the kit I used ordered from the yotashop.com? It came with the correct hose barb for rear axle, hose clamp, and 8 feet of hose? with new breather already installed in the hose!
    :yes:
    20200627_123122.jpg
    Removed old breather, and installed the new hose barb. Applied lube to outside of barb for easing the hose on. :D Ran the hose up to the frame, and followed the rear wiring harness until I got to the end of the bed, after that I followed the wiring harness for drivers side tail light up into the tail light area. Before zip-tying in place I verified there was enough slack at both ends of the hose for up/down action of the axle. Turned the end of the hose down into the cavity pictured below.
    20200702_112039.jpg
    As a bonus, I replaced the drivers side tail light, and harness with a non cut one. SWEET!
    20200702_110917.jpg
    Old on left, and new on right!
     
  4. Jul 5, 2020 at 5:43 PM
    #34
    Tundra2

    Tundra2 [OP] Zoinked

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    Next project! OEM running boards (rb) Per @Professional Hand Model's recommendation I sanded them down with a fine sanding sponge, wiped the dust off with mineral spirits, and sprayed with Rust-o-leum bed liner for added traction.
    20200702_161146.jpg 20200702_161150.jpg
    I crawled under the truck, and tapped all three holes per side at the front of the cab as prep work. M8X1.25 tap.
    20200702_191221.jpg 20200702_191227.jpg
    It was tricky to say the least, but I did tap all 6 holes. :rofl:
    20200702_201023.jpg
    Dry fitting after that. Installed one bolt up front, and used two zip ties to hold up the other two brackets while I adjusted the aluminum mounting brackets to fit my trucks mounting points.
    20200702_204735.jpg
    When I had it looking mint I loosened the carriage bolts, and then drilled pilot holes for sheet metal screws. I have always had bad luck with self tapping screws so opted not to use them. In the above picture you can see the M8X1.25 threaded stud, and weld nut on the cab mount. 20200703_080449.jpg
    I had to make reinforcement brackets since I didn't have that rare critter. Pictured above is a sample of 3X3 square tubing left over from my bed repair. The pink area is the weld nut mentioned earlier.
    20200703_145315.jpg
    Here is my cutting set up. The center RB reinforcement bracket needed some extra cut off. Thats what the blue line is on the smaller piece.
    20200704_134154.jpg
    Once I had all 4 pieces cut, and painted I went back on with them. If I had a do-over... I would have cut a socket hole in the white location. Ended up using a stubby 13 mm wrench.
    20200704_135029.jpg
    For the center brackets I had to cut down the stubby wrench. Just wasn't stubby enough. :sawzall:

    Finally I had all of the RB reinforcement brackets on, and TIGHT! Gave her a test go with my 250 lb self.
    RB Test fit.jpg
     
  5. Jul 5, 2020 at 6:22 PM
    #35
    Tundra2

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    Next job was painting my wheel well trim, and side mouldings. Below is a before picture.
    20200704_130456.jpg
    Taped everything up, and gave all the fixins' a good fine sanding, then a quick mineral spirits bath. 20200704_161433.jpg
    20200704_165817.jpg
    ^Used a interior body trim tool to get the tape BEHIND the wheel well trim.
    20200704_122741.jpg
    ^Painting after that.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scStjmqWRZM
    20200704_131738.jpg
    20200704_131549.jpg
    20200704_122907.jpg
    20200704_122843.jpg
    Oh, almost forgot to mention the bed caps.
    20200704_130903.jpg
    While I had the bed liner out, I did the mud flaps also. Had to modify the mounting points for rear right flap.20200703_201430.jpg 20200703_201516.jpg

    20200704_130436.jpg
     
  6. Jul 5, 2020 at 6:43 PM
    #36
    Tundra2

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    Next job before my return to work tomorrow. Drivers door exterior handle was loose. No pics till the end of the job. Couldn't find my phone. Sorry.

    Pulled the door panel, and started looking around for mounting points. Found two 10mm bolts. Started to reach for my palm (thumb wheel) ratchet when I noticed a plastic "star" plug above the rear mounting bolt. Popped that off, and then got an extension with a socket. Gave her a 1/4 turn, and she was tight! excellence. While I had the door panel off I did another job, again inspired by @Professional Hand Model. LED door strip tied into the door marker light. Used two t-taps, two solder-n-seal connectors, one piece of heat shrink, a lighter, and some masking tape.
    20200705_001147.jpg
    Black heat shrink over the two solder/seal connectors in blue circle. I tried a few different ways to route the cable straught up into the door, but it just wasn't working out. (Pink Highlight) Ended up running it up the door a little, and then over behind the door panel. Tape in white location is temporary until I figure out something better.
    20200704_192858.jpg 20200704_225914.jpg20200704_202016.jpg 20200704_204202.jpg
     
  7. Jul 6, 2020 at 6:21 AM
    #37
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Nice job! That light is amazing. Had a New Mercedes owner say they really liked this door light and how much better it was than theirs. :yes:
     
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  8. Jul 8, 2020 at 3:20 AM
    #38
    Tundra2

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    20200708_051927.jpg
    You can really see the difference here.

    Never got around to doing the tailgate cap.
     
  9. Jul 13, 2020 at 2:32 AM
    #39
    Tundra2

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    Just verified voltage range was in spec for MAF from wiring harness. :thumbsup:

    Auto hold function is SUPER sweet for a guy like me. Not an extra pair of hands in sight. Lol Take your reading and then DMM will continue to show reading. Supa nice.

    Old OEM MAF resistance test.

    At ambient temp the specc'd range is 2.2-2.7 K-ohms


    Pass side "star wheel" peephole boot.
    Drivers side shoe inspection boot.
    I looked all over the internets for a generic plug. Couldn't find the right things. Finally broke down, and ordered from the stealer.

    Daily first gen thread link 1
    Daily first gen thread link 2
     
  10. Jul 13, 2020 at 2:33 AM
    #40
    Tundra2

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    Replaced PCV valve, grommet, and stealership hose. All were rock hard.

    Replaced all these cracked, rock hard vacuum lines with thick wall silicone tubing. Link to website.

    Replaced my tired, and well used injectors with @dirtydeeds 12 hole injectors. No review on those yet. I was worried about fitment, and leaks because the new ones from Keith looked radically different than these. (See pics)


    I went ALL the way back together with the plenum (top/bottom) started putting my tools up, and found this.
    I reached out to @empty_lord to hypothesize where it lives. He told me "Lower plenum bolt in the center." I'll be damned if he wasn't 110% correct. Got her fixed up, and torqued down.

    All lines in green were replaced. I think I will hit up the stealership for line in pink. Part of PCV system from drivers side VC to intake hose.



    Did a 5S activity on my plug wires. Organized them, and ran them cleanly.

    Here is a video of the first start up after 2nd round of work was completed.
    https://youtu.be/CU07P0y1Ous

    I couldn't find my tri-pod to make a decent video for you all. I'm sorry.

    Daily first gen thread link
     
  11. Jul 13, 2020 at 6:52 AM
    #41
    Tundra2

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    Here is my dirty throttle body. Didn't clean this up. That is a project for another time.
    20200713_082928.jpg 20200713_084901.jpg
     
  12. Jul 13, 2020 at 6:56 AM
    #42
    Tundra2

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    Broken wire loom protector.
    20200713_083024.jpg
    The expanded view of the top of the engine.20200713_084725.jpg
    20200713_084611.jpg
     
  13. Jul 20, 2020 at 8:05 AM
    #43
    Tundra2

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    Last edited: Jul 20, 2020
  14. Jul 20, 2020 at 8:46 AM
    #44
    Tundra2

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    ATF service. 315,500 miles. Last known service was around 90k miles. Old fluid pic posted below. 20200720_102450.jpg
    I used the same bucket to catch the ATF fluid as I did the engine oil. I suspect the engine oil residue made the ATF fluid look darker than when it was actually in the transmission. When it was draining it looked cloudy, and dark red. Torqued drain plug to 15 Ft. Lbs. Per FSM.
    20200719_110355.jpg
    20200719_111019.jpg
    I carefully measured out 16 cups (4 quarts/1 gallon) and slowly started pouring it into the dipstick tube. I added the large funnel to my little funnel because my measuring cup was allowing fluid to run down the side of the cup.
    NG.​
    20200719_111211.jpg
    ^^^Added this amount to compensate for my spillage.
    20200719_123747.jpg
    20200719_123838.jpg
    I noticed that the accuracy of the dipstick depended just as much on HOW you pull it out as much as the flat level surface the truck sits on.

    Daily 1st gen link
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2020
  15. Jul 26, 2020 at 1:16 PM
    #45
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hows your Manifold Gasket leak that you thought you heard? The throttle body looks nasty!
     
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  16. Jul 26, 2020 at 2:03 PM
    #46
    robabeatle

    robabeatle New Member

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    What exactly is this that you did here? Anything that can quiet the cab is of interest to me.
     
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  17. Jul 26, 2020 at 3:24 PM
    #47
    Tundra2

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    After some investigation I have determined that I do NOT have a manifold leak. I do indeed have a leak somewhere, but each time I investigate it seems like the leak "moves" to the firewall or on drivers side of the engine.

    Throttle body cleaning is on the agenda. I just haven't gotten to it yet.

    Installed closed cell foam backer rod between the dash, and the windshield. It keeps the dash from squeaking.

    Be easy pushing it in the crevice if this is something you do.
     
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  18. Jul 26, 2020 at 3:29 PM
    #48
    robabeatle

    robabeatle New Member

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    So did the ccf work for you here?
     
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  19. Jul 26, 2020 at 3:59 PM
    #49
    Tundra2

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    Yes. Absolutely. The only reason I broke my windshield while doing this was there was a piece of gum over the vin plate. I was trying to get it out and made a $270 boo-boo
     
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  20. Jul 26, 2020 at 4:02 PM
    #50
    robabeatle

    robabeatle New Member

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    Ouch!
     
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  21. Jul 26, 2020 at 8:23 PM
    #51
    Tundra2

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    Pulled window switch, and then pulled apart. 20200726_070154.jpg
    Out of curiosity I pulled the lock button to see how it worked. Lubed up this area with Dielectric grease.
    20200726_074817.jpg Removed the old green led, and installed the new white crisp LED.
    20200726_183909.jpg
    Lubed up the pivot points with teflon spray per PHM.20200726_075322.jpg
    20200726_185503.jpg 20200726_215429.jpg 20200726_215516.jpg
    You can see the difference between foglight button, and window switch now. Major improvements.
    20200726_213848.jpg
     
  22. Jul 26, 2020 at 8:40 PM
    #52
    Tundra2

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    Replaced my OEM ignition coils with new Denso, and installed new TOY OEM plug wires. Checked resistance, and all 3 coils, and plug wires were in spec.
    20200726_213449.jpg
    Torque spec seen below. 20200725_005459.jpg
    For coil torque I torqued mine to 10 ft.lbf because my TW doesn't go that low.

    Removed spark plugs, and inspected. Torqued back down to 14 ft.lbf
    Pass side front to back is cyl 1, 3, and 5 at rear.
    20200726_223208.jpg 20200726_223244.jpg 20200726_223308.jpg
    Drivers side front to back is Cylinder 2, 4, and 6 at the rear. 20200726_204129.jpg 20200726_204351.jpg 20200726_204601.jpg
    The pictures make the spark plug threads look more dirty than they really are. Wiped the threads with a dry cloth, reinstalled, and torqued down.
    20200726_223909.jpg
    New toy plug wires came with all clips, and proper heat shielding. Installed all new clips.
    20200726_213438.jpg
    Also, added a little flavor!
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2020
  23. Jul 26, 2020 at 8:52 PM
    #53
    Tundra2

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    Old coils! I had 316,238 miles on these!

    20200726_223808.jpg
    20200726_223221.jpg 20200726_201308.jpg

    Resistance checking the old ignition coils. There are two methods to check the resistance value of my ignition coils.
    20200727_020406.jpg
    According to the FSM temperatures are as listed below.
    "Cold" is 14°F to 122°F.
    "Hot" is 122°F to 212°F.
    All testing below will be "cold."​
    I'll start with Cylinder 1 coil.
    Primary coil Test A: 2.5Ω
    Secondary coil (plug wire) Test B: 1.352 MΩ

    Cylinder 3 coil.
    Primary coil Test A: 2.6 Ω
    Secondary coil (plug wire) Test B: 1.209 MΩ

    Cylinder 5 coil.
    Primary coil Test A: 1.8Ω
    Secondary coil (plug wire) Test B: 0.780MΩ

    Ohmed out roughly 4 times with each test. Readings were consistently around the values listed above on results.
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2020
  24. Jul 27, 2020 at 3:52 PM
    #54
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    First Name:
    Fred
    ‘Somewhere’... a State of Mind
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tundra SR5 4WD 4.7L AC Silver Metallica
    Hand Protectors
    Coils were way off. Good job.
     
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  25. Aug 2, 2020 at 9:09 PM
    #55
    Tundra2

    Tundra2 [OP] Zoinked

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    #25875
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    First Name:
    Noah
    Western Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    '00 Tundra V8 SR5 '03 Corolla Virus
    Under hood led lighting. August 2nd, 2020.
    Pulled the hood off to make working easier.
    20200802_221100.jpg
    Four 12 mm bolts, the gas struts, the washer nozzle hose, and the hood is free as a bird.

    Laid the hood upside down on my bed.
    20200802_050819.jpg
    Prepped all my tools, and plugged in my soldering iron. Cleaned all surfaces with 100% isopropyl alcohol, and then wiped away all the dirty juice left behind. Wiped again with a alcohol rag. Wiped again with a dry rag.
    20200802_052917.jpg
    Laid the first run of 3M VHB tape down (gray under strip), and then laid the first run of lights down on that.
    20200802_221720.jpg
    Spooged some flex shot (FS) under neath the heat shrink, and then shrunk it down around the connections using a map gas torch.
    20200802_221914.jpg
    Used a razor knife to carefully seperate the gel water proofing from the little white conductor strips. Used my soldering iron to "cut" the gel because the razor knife couldn't do it! "Tinned" the copper connections as seen in the above image. A tricky task, but doable!
    20200802_080836.jpg
    Soldered in my jumper wires. A strong connection! I tested a few of them, and tugged on them. Felt real good!
    20200802_064333.jpg
    This is a different spot than the jumper wire image above, but this is what the finished connection looks like. Heat shrink over the jumper wires, with FS in that too. Heat shrink over the actual connections, and FS in those also. Shrunk the heat shrink down until a decent amount of FS spooged out. Wiped away excess.
    20200802_064328.jpg
    Expanded view of the above water proofing.
    20200802_223140.jpg
    Kept at it until I was all the way around the hood. Pictured above is a mid-project image. In the white circle you can see my jumper test wires I soldered in at the end, and touched them off to my M12 milwaukee battery to test each new addition. The green arrows show you the heat shrink underneath the light strip. I did not finish water proofing until I was sure the next strip worked. I chose to run the light strip in front of the hood seal. (Blue arrows.) Couple ideas behind that. If the front strip ever comes off while I'm driving, I'm hoping that the hood seal, and the radiator will keep it out of my fan.
    20200802_224514.jpg
    Almost done! I cut that heat shrink long enough to cover both jumper wires, and connections. FS inside the heat shrink, and then heated up!
    Blue locations are heat shrink for the previous set of jumpers. Green location is where I soldered on my power wire.
    20200802_224655.jpg
    Finished soldering test pic. This dude is SERIOUSLY bright. :cool: removed my test jumper wires here since they were no longer needed.
    20200802_225216.jpg
    Mounted the hood, and aligned it back in. You can see my "alignment" marks on the hinges.
    20200802_225540.jpg
    Cleaned up the hood with alcohol using the same method earlier. Used zipties, and stickies to keep it organized. A better shot of my "alignment" marks too.
    20200802_230416.jpg
    A lot going on in this image.
    In blue, more stickies with zip-ties. In green, my ground. In red, my toggle switch JB welded to the fuse box cover for ease of access. In pink, my connections. One side is heat shrinked, and the other isn't. Deciding whether I want to get water proof connectors.
    20200802_220432.jpg
    20200802_220413.jpg
    20200802_220622.jpg
    20200802_220644.jpg
    https://youtu.be/tjbv-BKwB6k

    Well worth my time!

    Editing in a shot from about 35 yards away.


    1st gen lunch table prototype link
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2020
    Mr.bee, JasonC., BubbaW and 4 others like this.
  26. Aug 2, 2020 at 9:53 PM
    #56
    Lil Steve

    Lil Steve Living the dream

    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2020
    Member:
    #45041
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    724
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    Male
    First Name:
    Steve
    Gilbert, AZ
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tundra SR5 Access Cab 2WD V8
    Noice. :popcorn:
     
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  27. Aug 2, 2020 at 9:54 PM
    #57
    Tundra2

    Tundra2 [OP] Zoinked

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    Noah
    Western Kentucky
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    '00 Tundra V8 SR5 '03 Corolla Virus
    I think I'll go home, and tinker with my new sunvisors from @lsaami's parts truck that have the built in light from the LIMITED trim

    After I have a small celebratory meal, of course.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2020
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  28. Aug 3, 2020 at 12:33 AM
    #58
    BubbaTun1794

    BubbaTun1794 New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2020
    Member:
    #48162
    Messages:
    19
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    '16 Tundra 1794
    NICE
     
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  29. Aug 3, 2020 at 1:49 AM
    #59
    Tundra2

    Tundra2 [OP] Zoinked

    Joined:
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    #25875
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    Noah
    Western Kentucky
    Vehicle:
    '00 Tundra V8 SR5 '03 Corolla Virus
    Thank you! Lots of love has went into this.
     
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  30. Aug 25, 2020 at 8:41 PM
    #60
    Fish River Tundra

    Fish River Tundra New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2019
    Member:
    #31474
    Messages:
    196
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    JD
    Nashville
    Vehicle:
    ‘16 Platinum
    Just found this thread and couldn’t stop reading it. Way to save and bring this truck back to its youth. Congrats on all the work so far
     
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