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Tundra Maintenance Guide

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by csuviper, Feb 16, 2014.

  1. Feb 13, 2017 at 8:45 AM
    #31
    RussellVaughan

    RussellVaughan New Member

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    Houston
    Vehicle:
    2015 Gray TSS 5.7 CM SR5 4x4
    I'm still not sure about the following intervals:
    Front diff
    Rear diff
    Transfer case
    Transmission

    Does toyota really mean to say that you never need to replace these fluids if you don't tow or haul??? Anybody else thought about this?

    The diffs and transfer case are super easy and cheap, so I did the first drain and fill at 25,000k, and will do every 30k thereafter since I don't tow or haul much. I will plan to do transmission drain and fill every 60k.
     
  2. Feb 18, 2017 at 3:01 PM
    #32
    Tundraplatinum

    Tundraplatinum New Member

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    Even if Toyota said that you never had to change fluid CHANGE IT! Manufacturers have to keep the posted yearly cost of maintenance low so they look good. It would be crazy to think your transmission fluid or diff never needs changed. Also you never see a recommended interval to change power steering fluid on any vehicle. I flush my diffs, transfer case and trans every 15k and coolant, power steering and brake fluid every 30k. my vehicles all last with minor repairs throughout their lifetime. I tow a 7500lb camper with my tundra so driveline flushes every 15k if you don't tow do them all every 30k with synthetic fluids, you wont regret it.
     
    Rex Kramer likes this.
  3. May 17, 2017 at 10:29 AM
    #33
    catchjon1

    catchjon1 New Member

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    '15 Tundra stock max cab 5.7 v8 black on grey
    anyone know what the tire rotation interval is? Just checked the manual and they do not have that info....
     
  4. May 17, 2017 at 10:35 AM
    #34
    PMG

    PMG New Member

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    It's quoted 2 posts above... 5k
     
  5. May 17, 2017 at 10:36 AM
    #35
    duece292

    duece292 Appalachian American

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    Greg
    Green Bay, WI
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra SR5 CM TRD 5.7 4X4
    Mine came with a maintenance manual and it says every 5000 miles. The dealership claimed to have done it every 5000 but when I did it I had to get behind each wheel with a wood block and a 5lb hammer to beat them loose.
     
  6. May 17, 2017 at 10:38 AM
    #36
    catchjon1

    catchjon1 New Member

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    With the manuals now posted online, were you able to find the missing info? I couldn't locate anything.

    I've personally never retorqed the shaft. Any non-tower mechanics out here have input?
     
  7. May 17, 2017 at 10:38 AM
    #37
    catchjon1

    catchjon1 New Member

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    Does anyone know the torq specs to the wheels?
     
  8. May 17, 2017 at 10:39 AM
    #38
    catchjon1

    catchjon1 New Member

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    I guess its time to shop for a chiltons manual.
     
  9. May 17, 2017 at 10:39 AM
    #39
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    Brian
    Broomfield, CO
    Vehicle:
    2019 TRD Sport CM 5.7L 4X4
    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
    Aluminum wheel: 97 ft lbs
    Steel wheel: 154 ft lbs
     
  10. May 17, 2017 at 7:20 PM
    #40
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    Are you serious? 154????

    I think my 35's are torqued at 110......
     
  11. May 20, 2017 at 9:03 AM
    #41
    Abrams65

    Abrams65 New Member

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    ICI Magnum RT Steps, 18' LED Foglights
    I would say these aren't so much Toyota recommendations as tire manufacturer. I know where I work for any type of tire warranty the customers have to be able to present proof of recommended tire rotation intervals. Continental-5k, Michelin-7,5k, Pirelli-3k and so on.
     
  12. Feb 21, 2018 at 4:24 PM
    #42
    GAknight

    GAknight New Member

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    Shade of a Pine, GA
    Vehicle:
    '14 TSS 4x4
    3" level kit, Icon shocks, rear bags S&B CAI, anytime fog lights, LEDs, and...list growing.
    Anyone know the torque specs for the prop/shaft bolts?
     
  13. Feb 21, 2018 at 9:16 PM
    #43
    csuviper

    csuviper [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    Some Mods :) See build thread for details
  14. Mar 3, 2019 at 12:01 PM
    #44
    yotaguy1212

    yotaguy1212 New Member

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    2in level, 275x65x20
    Sorry for silly question, when do we have to change water pump, tensioner etc. thanks 2 nd gen tundra
     
  15. Mar 18, 2019 at 8:21 PM
    #45
    Snowboard Tundra

    Snowboard Tundra New Member

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    I am approaching 100k miles, thinking of lumping all the following into one service.

    • Replace transmission oil every 60,000 miles if towing, 90,000 miles if not
    • Replace transfer case oil every 30,000 miles
    • Replace differential oil every 30,000 miles
    • Replace engine coolant every 60,000-100,000 miles
    • Replace spark plugs every 120,000 miles
    • Replace brake fluid every 2 to 3 years or 24,000 - 36,000 miles.
     
    KickupTruck likes this.
  16. Mar 19, 2019 at 7:30 PM
    #46
    yotaguy1212

    yotaguy1212 New Member

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    2in level, 275x65x20
  17. Dec 9, 2019 at 6:08 PM
    #47
    Tiamat

    Tiamat New Member

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    Yup every 5k or 6 months
     
  18. Jun 4, 2020 at 7:55 AM
    #48
    Bob_Wiley

    Bob_Wiley I feel good, I feel great, I feel wonderful...

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    Eric
    AZ
    Vehicle:
    2016 Black SR5 Crewmax 5.7 FFV
    Anyone have experience / words of wisdom on how to lubricate and re-torque the propeller shaft? I’ve never done that and don’t know what I’m looking for — any pics / videos would be greatly appreciated.
     
    Crews44 and Vr0ck like this.
  19. Jul 15, 2020 at 2:45 PM
    #49
    ErSlickEr

    ErSlickEr New Member

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    I have a 2018 4x4 MGM 5.8L Tundra FFV Limited and can tell you that my tundra does not have any zerk fittings on the Front Propeller shaft or the Rear Propeller shaft. So No Zerk Greasing!

    I did retorque them as listed below:
    Rear propeller shaft (17mm socket needed to torque nut to 52 ft lbs) 4 nuts on the front and 4 nuts on the rear of the Rear Propeller Shaft
    Front propeller shaft (14mm socket needed to torque nut to 59 ft lbs) 4 nuts on the front and 4 nuts on the rear of the Front Propeller Shaft

    I highly suggest using 3/8" Torque wrench. Also suggest having both short and long sockets and 3/8" extension bar handy. It will help with accessing nuts located in tough accessible positions.

    Also for all the people having a 4x4, I suggest putting the truck in 4Hi Mode and then park it and then go under to work on the shafts. Otherwise, when you try to torque the front propeller shaft, it will just rotate with force. (Ask me how I know?)]

    Also make sure to engage the parking brakes and then dis-engage them once you are done.

    Also suggest lifting the vehicle to better access the bottom if you are on the heavier end. Otherwise you should be able to slide under easily.

    The correct way to re-torque is to loosen the nut one or two thread rounds. Then hand tight it. Then tighten it with proper torque settings. - I know there can be an argument to just re-torque it directly but I followed this procedure.

    Also, for those who can accidentally mess up. I am one of them and am admitting it. I originally thought that the rear propeller shaft is longer and has bigger bolts so it needs to be torqued to higher settings. So I did torque it to 59 ft lbs instead of 52 ft lbs. When I was done and went inside my house and started thinking about what I did, I realized I messed up on the torque settings. So next day, I just went under with a breaker bar and loosened all the bolts and then re-torqued them to 52 ft lbs again. No issues here. This is just for people who can make mistake accidentally. It happens. Just correct it and move on.
     
  20. Jul 15, 2020 at 7:01 PM
    #50
    ErSlickEr

    ErSlickEr New Member

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    Vehicle:
    2018 MGM Tundra 4x4 CrewMax 5.7L FFV Limited
    MY SERVICING SCHEDULE (2018 Tundra 4x4 FFV 5.7L V8):
    Every 5000 Miles Service:
    Check All Fluid Levels
    Inspect Brake Pads and Rotors
    Inspect Wiper Blades
    Oil and Oil Filter Change
    Rotate Tires

    Oil/Filter: Every 5K
    Rotate Tires: Every 5K
    Re-torque propeller shaft bolt: Every 15K
    Cabin Air Filter: Every 30K (15K - if too dusty environment or if visible smell in cabin)
    Engine Air Filter: Every 30K

    Engine Coolant: Initial Replacement at 100K/120 months, Replace every 50K/60 months thereafter
    Spark Plugs: Replace 120K/144 months
    Drive Belts: Inspect at 60K/72 months. Inspect Every 15K/18 months thereafter
    Brake Fluid: Replace Every 36 months or 3 Years
    Idle Speed: Inspect Every 160K Miles

    Front Differential Oil(4WD): 15K/18 months if towing, hauling or driving on dusty or dirt roads
    Rear Differential Oil: 30K/36 months if towing, hauling or driving on dusty or dirt roads
    Transfer Case Oil(4WD): 30K/36 months if towing, hauling or driving on dusty or dirt roads
    Automatic Transmission Fluid: 60K/72 months if towing, hauling or driving on dusty or dirt roads

    For above four fluids (Front Diff, Rear Diff, Transfer Case, ATF), I have decided to change Every 60K/72 months Miles. I drive regular highway.
    I changed all the fluids at around 60K when I bought the truck (Truck was only 18 months old and had 57000 miles on it).
    Moving Forward, Next big oil service will be after 60K/72 months
    And then Every 60K/72 months after.

    Hope that helps other people!
     
    WFD473 likes this.
  21. Jul 21, 2020 at 5:43 AM
    #51
    Eaganite

    Eaganite New Member

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    Gary
    Eagan, Minnesota
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    This is something I don't understand,

    Front Differential Oil(4WD): 15K/18 months if towing, hauling or driving on dusty or dirt roads.

    I don't know about the rest of you, but when I am towing or hauling I only use 2WD never 4WD. The only exception to this would be if I somehow became stuck, (lousy boat launch) even then would only be in 4WD for a moment to get the truck out, then right back in 2WD. Otherwise only 2WD, so I don't understand the need for accelerated front differential fluid change when towing. Would seem to me the front differential is just rolling when in 2WD with no extra strain towing or not. Am I missing something?
     
  22. Jul 31, 2020 at 11:28 AM
    #52
    ErSlickEr

    ErSlickEr New Member

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    I agree with you. I drive in similar fashion. However, I just finished my Front Differential Fluid Change and found a lot of gunk stuck on the magnet. Granted, I bought my truck used and was not sure if the previous owner did 2WD or 4WD. In any case, the front parts move, may be not under load and there may not be similar wear like if under load, but then there will be some wear anyways due to mechanical friction. This is also the reason why I will change all fluids next at after another 60,000 miles and see how the oil and the magnet looks. I already have photos of the current oil changes. If it looks bad, I will go back to normal intervals, otherwise will just stick with what I have written above.
     

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