Transmission Fluid change (135,000 mi.); yes or no and if yes how often please.

Just returned from Toyota service department. Had the drain and fill Service adviser said not to replace screen because not needed. just as you advised. The invoice shows they put 5 qts back in. Cost $131.25. Also had rear end gear oil replaced with 4 qts 75w140. Cost $192.16. Oil and filter change with conventional 5w30 cost $54.21. Tech advised that middle ujoint shwing signs of wear but no a concern for now. I have had a randomly occurring clunking sound when i come to a stop in the rear i think is coming from the rr brake drum area. This only happens occasionally and the tech could not get the noise to occur during test drive. I was in and out of the shop in 1 1/2 hours. The truck had 161,570 miles on the original atf and gear oil. Atf was a little dark. I had the tech save some of the fluid

 

$192.16 for rear end gear oil change? Damn. Gear oil is $10-$15 a quart and it takes 15 minutes to do.

I think the trans service was a good price though. Especially since I’m sure they were charging you labor to stand around and wait on it to be at the correct temp.

 

The dealer performed a drain & fill on my transmission yesterday morning... I agreed with their recommendation NOT to drop the pan. Drop the pan only if / when you absolutely have to because you know something is wrong inside.

My transmission performs smoother than ever, and I will continue with the AT drain & fill every 20K with every 5th oil & filter change.

 

I did a flush at the dealer last year on my 2007 with 90K. I definitely noticed smoother shifting afterward.

 

I’d be curious to know if anyone here knows of a Tundra transmission failure of an original owner transmission that never had it’s fluid changed. I posted the same question on a Lexus forum about a year ago (regarding the LS460) and no replies.

 

Similar results here after a drain & fill... most notable is how it downshifts when in drive.

 

Yes. My 2010 failed just under 60k miles. Got a remanufactured one. It was replaced 8 months after I traded it in according to carfax at 105k. But I guess technically the fluid was changed when they replaced the first one.

 

You were the original owner?

 

Yes.

 

Wow, that sucks. I'm literally on a plane flying to pick up my 2010 with 170,000. The tranny is the only thing I'm uncertain about...

 

I wish there was an easy way to check the fluid level in these trucks. I would assume there is enough fluid if there anent any leaks. Where would it go otherwise?
I have about the same mileage as the OP and I'm sure it's never been changed. I've read too much about problems afterward that I would not consider changing it. It works fine and why mess with it if it isn't broken.

 

That is the rear drive line compressing on 'hard' stops, you define hard but its not a slow stop when this happens. As you keep the brakes on, the driveline compression remains until brakes are let go to begin accelerating, clunk as driveline expands. Lubing it helps some....sometimes eliminates it altogether, don't overfill - 3 pumps max...

 

I just bought a 2010 SR5 with the 5.7 with 77K miles on it and the tranny is the only thing that concerns me. I bought the truck used in Kentucky and it has a gooseneck hitch so I don't know if it had been hauling horses, hay or bulldozers. I am going to go with the drain and fill from what I have read here. Should I have any other concerns? It pulled my 24 foot camper 2 1/2 hours with no problems.

 

Not if it’s shifting ok. You can’t ever tell. It could go out in 1k miles or 100k miles or never for as long as you have it. Might want to change all fluids.

 

Should the AT fluid be changed out with 89,000 miles? No hard shifting or slipping, just maintenance

 

I think the manual says drain and fill at 90k miles. I think most would just recommend a drain and fill. Drain out the pan 3-4 quarts (it varies) and replace with the exact amount. There is like 14-16 quarts total. The idea is to freshen up the fluid with 20-25% changed.

This is what I did recently. Re-filling with the exact amount is key. There is no dip stick to check level. Too much or not enough fluid can cause issues.

 

Ok dealer just told me I needed 5 quarts
Place I'm taking to to change out says I need 8
I'm also changing out the filter too which I got from dealer

 

Mine seemed to be hard shifting occasionally if it was lugging up an incline at slow speeds(i live on a hilly portion of the city). It would “bang” grabbing a lower gear.

I did a complete fluid exchange at 160k and it hasnt done it since.

Not real sure why the drain and fill is pushed so hard when the exchange take 10 more minutes and you get a trans full of fresh stuff.

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The amount varies; dealer prolly just charging for 5. I would question the other place, maybe just want to charge more.
The filter is more like a screen. It also means dropping the pan. Many choose not to go this route.

 

I don't believe Toyota recommends a complete change. If a few drain and fills had been done earlier then perhaps the shifting issues may have been avoided.

 

In your op would the filter need changing at that many miles? 89, bout to hit 90

Items were paid cash, so we can get money back, gasket, drain plug gasket and filter

 

I don't think its required at 90k. May want to refer to manual.
I wouldn't think it's necessary.

 

They want it done

 

K&N’s are better when dirty too

 

Filter is just a screen. There is a thread on here where a guy cut his open at over 100k I think and it was clean. It’s a waste of money and you take a chance on the bolts breaking off when dropping the pan.

 

I'm not doing
Transmission shop is
Filter was bought at dealer
As well as fluid and gasket n drain bolt gasket

 

But I assumed you were paying them to do it. It’s a waste of money and could cause more issues with broken bolts.

Search for transmission broken bolts.

See post 2 here.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/transmission-filter-or-screen-drop-pan-or-no-need.63450/

 

As you can tell from my post #30 even at 120k mine looks new. Only reason I was replacing my filter was because I was doing a valve body rebuild so why not!

But I would recommend at least dropping the pan and cleaning all the sediment out. so it don’t get mixed back in when the new detergents in the new fluid dissolve it.

 

I knew I saw that somewhere. Just forgot that it was this thread it was in.

 

I drained and filled my 09 warrior at 64000 miles after I purchased it and it shifts like butter now. I always drain and fill when I buy used. It is cheap and the truck or car always runs better.