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This truck can't handle 285/70/17

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by toyoboyo, Aug 2, 2019.

  1. Aug 2, 2019 at 4:13 PM
    #31
    OR18TRD

    OR18TRD Pândâ Crëw

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    Suspension: front- Bilsein 6112 set at 1.9”; Rear- bilstein 5160 with maxtrac 1” shackel. Wheels: Method MR308 roost wheels 18x9” +18 offset. Tires: 275/70/18 Goodyear wrangler DuraTrac’s Removed front mudflaps and moved front wheel well liner forward. Bakflip MX4 Tonneau cover Line-x premium bed liner aFe CAI Rear differential breather moved behind taillight Debadged Windows tinted 20% ESP locking long box rear seat storage OEM all weather mats 6 3/4” antenna Coverking leather rear seat cover
    Now I remember why I don’t try to help people in the 1st gen threads... :anonymous:


    Good luck @toyoboyo
     
    Tundyfundy likes this.
  2. Aug 2, 2019 at 4:13 PM
    #32
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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    I could have used you a few times on this thread. Did I do ok?
     
  3. Aug 2, 2019 at 4:14 PM
    #33
    Casper421

    Casper421 Adventure in a 1st gen

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    What do you mean by “my suspension is constantly wearing out”? Where are the tires rubbing? Also, what brand tire? P or LT?

    I’m not sure why your truck can’t be aligned since you have SPC uppers and they have quite a bit of adjustment in them. Lca bushings could be worn and can’t hold an alignment.
     
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  4. Aug 2, 2019 at 4:15 PM
    #34
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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    Same over on turd gen section. I comment and you guys are like a pack of hyenas. We appreciate your help. You just need focusing on the original post.
     
  5. Aug 2, 2019 at 4:21 PM
    #35
    Casper421

    Casper421 Adventure in a 1st gen

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    Different size components but they’re the exact same.
     
  6. Aug 2, 2019 at 4:23 PM
    #36
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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    What year models are we discussing now Sensai? We had a 3rd Gen infiltration. Did you pick up on that?
     
  7. Aug 2, 2019 at 4:26 PM
    #37
    OR18TRD

    OR18TRD Pândâ Crëw

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    Suspension: front- Bilsein 6112 set at 1.9”; Rear- bilstein 5160 with maxtrac 1” shackel. Wheels: Method MR308 roost wheels 18x9” +18 offset. Tires: 275/70/18 Goodyear wrangler DuraTrac’s Removed front mudflaps and moved front wheel well liner forward. Bakflip MX4 Tonneau cover Line-x premium bed liner aFe CAI Rear differential breather moved behind taillight Debadged Windows tinted 20% ESP locking long box rear seat storage OEM all weather mats 6 3/4” antenna Coverking leather rear seat cover
    I now understand where the hostility is coming from. I’m sorry if any of my peers have attacked you like hyenas. I hope I have not done that to you. If I have I apologize.
    I feel like I have done a good job sticking to the original post and helping to make suggestions on how to fix this issue. There is a lot of carry over on the Toyota line of trucks. My intentions were only to help not educate or bash any other member.
    I understand I pointed out that “technically” and I said technically knowing that it can differ from manufacture. A 285/70/17 is “technically” smaller than a 285/75/16
    I realize I was agreeing with @Casper421 and he’s your “sensei”
     
    Tundyfundy likes this.
  8. Aug 2, 2019 at 4:27 PM
    #38
    OR18TRD

    OR18TRD Pândâ Crëw

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    Suspension: front- Bilsein 6112 set at 1.9”; Rear- bilstein 5160 with maxtrac 1” shackel. Wheels: Method MR308 roost wheels 18x9” +18 offset. Tires: 275/70/18 Goodyear wrangler DuraTrac’s Removed front mudflaps and moved front wheel well liner forward. Bakflip MX4 Tonneau cover Line-x premium bed liner aFe CAI Rear differential breather moved behind taillight Debadged Windows tinted 20% ESP locking long box rear seat storage OEM all weather mats 6 3/4” antenna Coverking leather rear seat cover
     
  9. Aug 2, 2019 at 4:28 PM
    #39
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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    No hostility bud. Just a comment. You took it wrong?

    You just didn’t read the OP. Its ok. We all make mistakes.
     
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  10. Aug 2, 2019 at 4:34 PM
    #40
    OR18TRD

    OR18TRD Pândâ Crëw

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    Suspension: front- Bilsein 6112 set at 1.9”; Rear- bilstein 5160 with maxtrac 1” shackel. Wheels: Method MR308 roost wheels 18x9” +18 offset. Tires: 275/70/18 Goodyear wrangler DuraTrac’s Removed front mudflaps and moved front wheel well liner forward. Bakflip MX4 Tonneau cover Line-x premium bed liner aFe CAI Rear differential breather moved behind taillight Debadged Windows tinted 20% ESP locking long box rear seat storage OEM all weather mats 6 3/4” antenna Coverking leather rear seat cover
    I read it. Did you see he has OME 862 springs with the 5100’s :eek:
     
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  11. Aug 2, 2019 at 6:18 PM
    #41
    Darkness

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    Whoa.

    I would like to see answers to Caspers questions, what is wearing out? Why the belief that it cannot be aligned? Did more than one shop try?

    If we wanna get super technical PHM has a point on 16" wheels vs 17" wheels. The barrel of the rim being closer to the hub means less work to rotate, but the cost of swapping wheels and tires won't be realized in benefit.

    My suspicion is that the OP doesn't drive in a fuel conservative style. I could get 5 mpg if I wanted to, but learning how to adjust driving habits allows me to get 16 mpg and greater.
     
  12. Aug 2, 2019 at 7:23 PM
    #42
    KarmaKannon

    KarmaKannon New Member

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    I don't pay attention to my mpg much but it's around 14 with mixed driving daily on my 06 with 315 70 17 and stock 4.10 gears. I expect that regearing to 4.56 or 4.88 would get me up 1 mpg or more and make it more fun too. My suspension doesn't seem to wear too bad and I'm only running(or was only running because I'm not running anything now) 2" lift spacers up front and a 1" diff drop.

    Honestly for a small half ton truck I'm impressed with what my tundra has done. My old Titan had more power and would have pushed 35s better, but mpg was 13.5 mixed with 33s on 22s. So it wasn't exactly an economy vehicle either.
     
  13. Aug 3, 2019 at 6:13 AM
    #43
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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    Sure did. An admitted non expert.

    Lets do a regrouping of this thread.

    1) The OP thread title says the ‘truck can’t handle 285/70/r17’ which you and our ‘in house expert’ says is the equivalent size to my 285/75/r16 (within .10”). My truck is proof that ‘diameter’ tire can be handled. After all, my tire is slightly bigger? This truck is on its 5th set of 285 tires.

    2) Now go back and read my intro post #5 response. Absorb it. Nothing will change what I said. Its an opinion based on years of experience.

    3) In my #5 post response, it was suggested to skip the spacers which you later say “99% of the time you do not recommend”. I agree with you here 100%. You simply did not understand the 1.25” minimum, tried to walk it back with mumbo jumbo, and then turned into the ‘spelling police’ where you forgot to add a period at the end of your sentence.

    4) People commenting on wheels without telling us the year of their trucks in relation to the OP.

    Back on topic: Maybe Toyoboyo can shoot us some pics of his set up?

    Give us a little service history?
     
    Deslock23 likes this.
  14. Aug 3, 2019 at 2:34 PM
    #44
    lsaami

    lsaami Redneck Toyota boi with a rice-burner Honda

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    for everyone's reference, I compared 3 different tire sizes for their weights and measurements. My tire choice was the staple BFG KO2 all terrain E rated.

    Size 1 - 265/75/16 (+1): 53lbs, 31.6" diameter, Sect. width of 10.5"
    Size 2 - 285/75/16: 59lbs, 32.8" diameter, Sect. Width of 11.2"
    Size 3 - 285/70/17:58lbs, 32.7" diameter, Sect width of 11.3"


    As you can see, the specs of a 285/75/16 and a 285/70/17 are almost identical. Hopefully this clears some things up for people.
     
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  15. Aug 3, 2019 at 5:02 PM
    #45
    OR18TRD

    OR18TRD Pândâ Crëw

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    Suspension: front- Bilsein 6112 set at 1.9”; Rear- bilstein 5160 with maxtrac 1” shackel. Wheels: Method MR308 roost wheels 18x9” +18 offset. Tires: 275/70/18 Goodyear wrangler DuraTrac’s Removed front mudflaps and moved front wheel well liner forward. Bakflip MX4 Tonneau cover Line-x premium bed liner aFe CAI Rear differential breather moved behind taillight Debadged Windows tinted 20% ESP locking long box rear seat storage OEM all weather mats 6 3/4” antenna Coverking leather rear seat cover
    Great you made a list and blasted me for missing my period. Bravo sir. Keep it up you’ve almost won.
     
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  16. Aug 3, 2019 at 5:49 PM
    #46
    OR18TRD

    OR18TRD Pândâ Crëw

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    Suspension: front- Bilsein 6112 set at 1.9”; Rear- bilstein 5160 with maxtrac 1” shackel. Wheels: Method MR308 roost wheels 18x9” +18 offset. Tires: 275/70/18 Goodyear wrangler DuraTrac’s Removed front mudflaps and moved front wheel well liner forward. Bakflip MX4 Tonneau cover Line-x premium bed liner aFe CAI Rear differential breather moved behind taillight Debadged Windows tinted 20% ESP locking long box rear seat storage OEM all weather mats 6 3/4” antenna Coverking leather rear seat cover
    @toyoboyo, I’ve learned some things from this thread. I hope you have too.
    What I’ve taken away so far is:
    Lists can be helpful. So...
    1. 285/75/16 is basically the same as 285/70/17 when it comes to the tire itself. The way the 17” rim sits on the truck is slightly different than the 16” rim. Most likely not your issue. Refer to post #8
    2. The 1.25” wheel spacers are putting more stress on components. I’d remove those. Refer to post #17
    3. 5100’s should not be set to the top setting on your truck. Most likely some of your issue. Refer to post #29
    Let’s recap. Your tires are most likely not the main cause of your components failing prematurely. The 5100’s at the top setting should be lowered to the second notch from stock height as per post #29. The wheel spacers should be removed per post #17. Changing those won’t cost any money just time and see if that helps. If you want to change the tire size and keep the rims Id suggest looking at 275/70/17
     
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  17. Aug 4, 2019 at 8:06 AM
    #47
    lsaami

    lsaami Redneck Toyota boi with a rice-burner Honda

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    My understanding is that the 5100s shouldn't be put to the top notch with stock UCAs and without a diff drop kit. Could be wrong though. I'm running 2-3" spacer lift up front and everything seems to be just fine (it's been there a LONG time too. PO installed).
     
    OR18TRD likes this.
  18. Aug 4, 2019 at 2:20 PM
    #48
    TX-TRD1stGEN

    TX-TRD1stGEN ...

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  19. Aug 4, 2019 at 7:42 PM
    #49
    because_wumbo-truck

    because_wumbo-truck TTC #036

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    You only doing city driving? I get 15 hwy in my 05 tundra with 33.5s
     
  20. Aug 7, 2019 at 5:49 AM
    #50
    andrew8404

    andrew8404 New Member

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    I went with the 255/80 17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers and haven’t noticed much drop in MPG or power loss. I think this tire is the sweet spot. Haven’t needed any trimming either. So far really happy with this set up.
     
  21. Aug 13, 2019 at 10:22 PM
    #51
    Cajunman007

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    I have 285/70/17's on mine also, and 5100's are on the 3rd notch. It rubs a little on the inside when turned hard. Which notch should they be on? I don't have a lift, just an extra spring in the back. I get about 14 mpg on the road.
     
  22. Aug 19, 2019 at 9:50 PM
    #52
    marovn

    marovn New Member

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    Cajunman. do you happen to exactly where your tires make contact when you turn hard?
     
  23. Aug 19, 2019 at 10:58 PM
    #53
    Scuba

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    This thread is all over the place so I will pretend I haven’t read anything after your first post.

    First and foremost we need more info about what exactly is wearing out. Bushings? Ball joints? What?

    MPG.
    Your tires have a 7% difference in size than the Oe 265/70/16.
    When you refill and check mpg multiply your miles X .07. Add that back to your miles. For instance your odo indicates 200 miles between your fillup. 200x.07 =14 so you’ve actually traveled 214 miles.

    A 285/70/17 is not over the limits of what your trucks suspension can handle.
    I wheeled my 99 Tacoma (same front suspension components as your Sequioa) for 4 years on 35’s with little failure (aside from breaking a CV every time I went wheelin, but that’s a whole nother issue).

    This is what I would recommend.
    Remove the wheel spacers. They are adding extra leverage by moving the tire and wheel so far out. 1.25 isn’t extreme but again, this is what I would recommend.
    Second. Your front end only has a couple other wear components. Lower control arm bushings, lower ball joints, tie rods (inner and outer) and rack and pinion bushings.
    Without any knowledge of your service history I would start by replacing all of those 5 things.
    History tells us that you would be better off buying a new set of LCA’s because the bushings aren’t easily replaceable. I would go straight to toyota for the LCA’s, BJ’s and TRE’s.
    You can find low cost OEM parts from places like cool springs Toyota or toyotapartsales dot com.
    For steering rack bushings energy suspension makes a poly urethane set. Can’t go wrong there.

    Okay, after all the wear items are replaced... it sounds like you may be lifted way too high but I can’t say without seeing it. I thought the highest setting on the 5100’s was a no go.

    When we lift our trucks with adjustable coil overs all that does is move the suspension to a static location that is closer to full droop. We have roughly 6.5” full suspension movement. The ball joints are the limiting factor for droop (down travel).
    A lot of the times some of these lifts actually put your suspension very close to full droop. This will tear up ball joints in a hurry.
    Imagine the ball joint like your knee cap. It can only go so far in either direction and you’re gonna mess things up if you try and force it past.

    I’m just some dude on the internet so feel free to take what I say with a grain of salt. However that’s where I would start if I was in your shoes.
     
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  24. Aug 20, 2019 at 1:55 AM
    #54
    SoCalPaul

    SoCalPaul New Member

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    As an FYI, 17” wheels were one of the stock sizes available on 1st gen Tundras and Sequoias.

    If the 285/70/17 tires are BFG, recommended rim width is 7.5” - 9”.
    Those SEMA rims are 7” wide.
     
  25. Aug 24, 2019 at 12:33 PM
    #55
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model Fred Brookes

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    Its been a few weeks. Are you pregnant?
     
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  26. Aug 24, 2019 at 1:01 PM
    #56
    OR18TRD

    OR18TRD Pândâ Crëw

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    Suspension: front- Bilsein 6112 set at 1.9”; Rear- bilstein 5160 with maxtrac 1” shackel. Wheels: Method MR308 roost wheels 18x9” +18 offset. Tires: 275/70/18 Goodyear wrangler DuraTrac’s Removed front mudflaps and moved front wheel well liner forward. Bakflip MX4 Tonneau cover Line-x premium bed liner aFe CAI Rear differential breather moved behind taillight Debadged Windows tinted 20% ESP locking long box rear seat storage OEM all weather mats 6 3/4” antenna Coverking leather rear seat cover
    :tumbleweed:
    :bored:










    :laughing:








    :stirthepot: :smack:
     
  27. Oct 9, 2019 at 3:46 PM
    #57
    toyoboyo

    toyoboyo [OP] New Member

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    Mega Bump! So sorry guys, been really busy. Anyway, here are some photos of my truck...

    Truck:

    2005 TOYOTA SEQUOIA, 2WD (NO 4WD)

    Wheels/Tires:

    17x7 4Runner TRD PRO, 285/70/17 BFG K02

    Spidertrax 1.25 wheel spacers

    Suspension:
    Bilstein 5100 All around, OME 862 springs on the rear with firestone coil-rite air bags (completely deflated).

    Polyurethane bushings on steering rack.

    All products were purchased from suggestions of Tundra Solutions forum (1st gen sequoia section). That forum is way too slow for any feedback.

    Goals:

    This is a beater truck, wanted to make it look as little "Soccer Mommy" as possible. Every time I see this car on the road it's a beat up jalopy driven by a Mexican mom or it's in mint condition driven by an elderly person.


    Willing to add a rear locker and re-gearing if possible. Please suggest!

    Symptoms:
    Both front wheels rub on full lock and even less at times.. If there's a heavy load in the back of the vehicle, it stops rubbing.

    Alignment and steering wheel way off and misaligned.. Steering wheel off axis to the right and it's all over the road sometimes. If I correct the steering wheel axis to dead center, the truck pulls hard left.

    Clunking from the front, most likely lower bushings.... In the photos, is my upper control arm bushing leaking? They are nearly brand new SPC arms.

    Transmission doesn't like to shift into 5th and constantly seeks gears. Cursing at 45-50mph it will stay locked in 4th gear which crushes MPG's.. I have to set it on cruise control for it to shift into 5th then cancel cruise.



    Sorry for bold letters and if it seems like I'm yelling. Just wanted to make this stand out in between the debates.. I am welcoming all posts and answers and actually enjoy reading your opinions.. Can anyone recommend a shop in Phoenix AZ? 4wheelparts any good?

    20191009_151644[1].jpg 20191009_151652[1].jpg 20191009_151707[1].jpg 20191009_151747[1].jpg 20191009_151756[1].jpg 20191009_151808[1].jpg 20191009_151810[1].jpg 20191009_151827[1].jpg
     
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  28. Oct 9, 2019 at 3:55 PM
    #58
    toyoboyo

    toyoboyo [OP] New Member

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    I'd also like to add that it has some beefier sway bar end links from a shop here in AZ. Forgot the name.
     
  29. Oct 9, 2019 at 4:17 PM
    #59
    SoCalPaul

    SoCalPaul New Member

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    Front Bilstein 6112 shocks & Bilstein springs. Rear Bilstein 5160 remote Reservoir shocks, Wheeler’s Off-road add-a-leafs. LED lighting. Pioneer Avic 7200NEX Nav Head unit. Borla cat back exhaust.
    It looks like you have SPC Upper Control Arms, so you should be able to get your alignment correct. I'd try a different alignment shop.

    2wd should be able to use the top setting on front if you have stock springs. I'd remove the wheel spacers in front & see if you have clearance issues.
     
  30. Oct 9, 2019 at 4:19 PM
    #60
    toyoboyo

    toyoboyo [OP] New Member

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    Wouldn't removing the spacers sink in the wheels/tires more which would cause even more severe rubbing?
     

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