This shit is crazy NEED HELP!!!!

Lol yea maybe a couple, but I sweat so much during this whole process it wouldn't even matter lol..

 

Maybe misboxed parts and you should compare to old if possible to check for size fit etc

 

This cam tab looks like it’s flattened. Hard to tell in the pic. If it is, when you full lock your wheel, it’s making your lower control arm move. Not having them torqued high enough can do the same.

 

Here's more pics of the lower control arm

 

Can’t offer much more bro, wish you the best. TY for sharing, if me I would be making sure those ball joints are really firm before driving around. Seen ugly results from failures!!

 

It kind of looks like the wheels are hitting the limit (stops) before the steering rack is maxed out. This will push on the stops and make the truck dip. I assume it is maxed out when turning full left and not hitting or binding on the stops, not making it dip on full left lock.

 

Here's the front lower control arm bushing. The other photos was the rear.

 

Might be able to attach go pro and see what is going on

 

Yea all the ball joints are brand new OEM and they are tight

 

I wish I had a go pro lol but by the looks of it when it dips the lower control arm dips also and at the same time the uca rises...

 

When I turn my steering wheel to lock in either direction, it hits a hard stop. Yours doesn't appear to be doing that, like the "stop" doesn't exist and the steering rack is continuing to "pull" on the knuckle and at the limit of the knuckles rotation then begins to pull up on the suspension. Certainly an odd phenomena, I've not noticed this on anything I've ever driven...

 

Ok I'm going to test and see...

 

It sure seems like defective or mislabeled parts or installation mistake to me. I always compare replacement parts carefully and have found issues more than once!

 

I’d follow @joonbug advice. Double check your cam bolts... they should be tight as hell like so tight you have to put your whole weight in to tighten them. 200 ft lbs at least of torque. The alignment shop could had left them loose like my shop did!

 

You might be right theirs more clearance on the passenger side than the driver side.

https://youtu.be/4u8tj2pjZfo

 

Driver side steering stop


Passenger side steering stop

Their was about 1/4 turn left on the steering for both driver side and passenger and drive

 

Not sure I have much to offer, but just thought Of a few things...

1). You replaced inner and outer tie rid ends. When you replaced them, was the steering wheel straight ahead, and did you count the turns off for removing the old ones, and put new ones on with same # of turns? If not, could be that the “center” of the rack shifted and when they aligned it, they straightened the steering wheel, but you are having over travel to one side.

2). No go-pro, but do you have an old cell phone? You can make a poor man’s go pro by fastening it someplace secure and recording with the cell cam while you drive in a safe location to try to capture the shift.

Sorry in advance if you’ve already checked these things...

 

The problem already existed before the tie rod replacement. And yes I did everything to the tee..

 

bring it to a toyota dealership.

 

Occam's razor would say there's probably one common cause but, if there isn't, the vibration could be due to your tires not being installed correctly. I had this happen to a car of mine after the stealership "checked the brakes" during an oil change. Take each wheel off the truck and put it back on, making sure to tighten the lug nuts in a cross pattern.

 

I wouldn't do that. He altered the suspension from OEM. It will not be warrantied, and there is not guaranty that the idiot dealer tech will be able to identify what the issue is, due to aftermarket suspension. If the OP cannot figure out the issue, he needs to take it to a trusted 4x4 shop.

 

Well I'm going back to tire plus tomorrow to figure out what happen and go from there.

 

I checked the tires made sure it was cross pattern and their at 97ft torque

 

I looks like things are flexing. I can't get to my truck just now, but maybe someone has the time to check their truck to see if the the steering knuckle stops because of a limit in the steering rack, or because the knuckle hits the stop. I'd say that mine does the later as when I hit lock, if I don't ease into it, it hits pretty hard, there's no "mushiness" to it.

 

Yea what I can gather is the driver side hits the stop way before the steering wheel like atleast 1/4 turn. And the passenger side has clearance so we will see tomorrow...

 

When I installed the coilovers with the shims. I had to go on the highway before I went to the alignment shop and I had my old tires on and their was vibration!!!! Like I said above their was no vibration before the coilover swap. But their was even with the old tires... It not a constant vibration but a intermediate vibration like 3 seconds on 3 seconds off... Weird right so I don't know if theirs 2 problems or 1 big underlying problem well we will see tomorrow. I'm determined after all this shit I did..

 

See the top of this cam tab? It’s angled downward. It should be parallel with the bolt. Could be the angle of the pic but I’m fairly certain you have a flattened tab and your LCA is shifting.

 

Here’s one of your good ones. It should look like that.

 

Do the tires tilt at all when turning , or do they stay level? Some of the pictures looked like there might be a bushing badly worn , or missing most of it , on one of the control arms. I would check all bushings, and be sure upper and lower control arms aren't moving when turning, causing wheel tilt.

 

Appears to me the steering knuckle hits a stop in both directions (turning right or left) on the lower ball joint mount, front and rear.

There are heavy-duty forged "tabs" that protrude from the knuckle surface, front and rear, which are machined concave during manufacture and left raw. Those tabs appear to have designated contact points on the heavy-duty forged lower ball joint mount. Paint on my front stop has a slight mark from being turned left to lock at least once. When the knuckle tab contacts the LCA ball joint mount, it's unlikely to be "mushy" if the LCA is properly mounted with good bushings.

If the OP's knuckle is hitting the lower ball joint mount at full travel, and then moving the LCA, it should to be something that can be observed laying on the ground in front of the truck. No Go Pro necessary.