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Tacotunes System 1B - Detailed Installation and Reviews

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Netmonkey, Jul 31, 2018.

  1. Jul 31, 2018 at 10:18 PM
    #1
    Netmonkey

    Netmonkey [OP] Don't be a Dumbass

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2016
    Member:
    #2971
    Messages:
    791
    Gender:
    Male
    Georgetown, TX
    Vehicle:
    2016 Texas Edition, 5.7, CM, MGM
    5100's @ 1.57, 295 55 20 nitto ridge grapplers, texas edition wheels (20x9 +50mm), TRD dual exhaust, TRD rear sway bar
    hey guys,

    so my wife and i were driving in the tundra one day and a song that she liked came on the radio. she tried to turn up the volume and all she got was distorted tinny treble. she said, "damn, your stereo sucks." i sighed and i said, "yeah, i know."

    later that week, a buddy of mine was telling me about the System 1 Starter kit that he had installed at Tacotunes. so i met up with him to listen to it and i was blown away. it was so clear, crisp, loud, and full of bass. i knew it was time for an upgrade. when i came back home, my wife asked about the system and before i was even done telling her about it, she said, "do it." "ok", i said, "twist my arm." :) this is the first mod that i didn't have to convince her of :)

    so i went on the Tacotunes website and found the . it is one of their mid level systems that includes:
    • 2 amps for a total of 1400 watts
    • 2, 12" subwoofers and the subwoofer box
    • 4, 6.75" front and rear component door speakers
    • 4, door tweeters
    • 4 crossovers
    • all the hardware and wires
    since it is a complete plug-and-play kit, i figured that i would tackle the installation myself.

    so, this thread will be a detail of my installation of the System 1B kit, a review of the system, a review of the kit, and, finally, a review of Tacotunes.

    ==============

    i must stress this point.... this installation is no joke. you seriously need to be prepared to do the installation. it is not for the faint of heart. i watched all the videos that i could find on their website and on their youtube channel. in fact, over the course of a week, i watched all the videos several times. i wanted to be absolutely certain that i could complete this installation. after watching all the videos, i created a detailed checklist for myself that i could use during the installation process. you can view it here if you like: install doc
    i will be following that doc in this thread.

    Daniel was my contact at Tacotunes and he said that they can do the installation in 5-6 hours, but most self-installs take 12-16 hours over 2 days. i thought that seamed exaggerated, but it is not. he said most guys will watch the videos while they are trying to do the installation. that back and forth eats up so much time. since i had prepared myself, i only had to watch the subwoofer wiring video. everything else was done from memory and from my checklist. i was able to complete the installation in 1 day, but it still took me 12-13 hours.

    i did the installation on a sunday, so i woke up early to make sure that i had enough time. also, being in texas, i knew the daytime high was going to be over 100 degrees. so, i got up at 3:30am and it was 82 degrees already. i was in the garage by 4am:
    [​IMG]


    ==========================
    1 - inventory and prep
    ==========================

    i printed out my checklist and got my tuning CD ready:
    [​IMG]

    here is the complete kit:
    [​IMG]

    here are the front and rear door speakers, tweeters, crossovers, door mounting brackets, wire harnesses, hardware, 18 and 16 gauge speaker wire, and the crossover mounting brackets:
    [​IMG]

    here are the 2 amps, the amp mount, the wire harnesses, hardware, 12 gauge subwoofer wire, and the amp wiring kit which includes, a 4 gauge power wire, 8 gauge power wires, 8 gauge ground wires, a fuse block for the battery, a distribution block for the amps, and all the fuses and hardware:
    [​IMG]

    here is the subwoofer box, the poly fill , the terminal cup, hardware, and the 2 subwoofers:
    [​IMG]

    here are the front door sail panels for the tweeters:
    [​IMG]

    the kit also included plastic pry tools and a multimeter:
    [​IMG]

    tools and supplies that you will need:
    • socket set
    • screwdrivers
    • hammer
    • drill
    • drill bit set
    • wire strippers
    • dikes
    • pliers
    • utility knife
    • multimeter
    • pry tools
    • electrical tape
    • zip ties
    • zip lock bags
    • sand paper


    ==========================
    2 - disconnect the negative from the battery
    ==========================

    dont forget this step. you dont want to blow any fuses or damage any components in your truck


    ==========================
    3 - disassemble the interior
    ==========================

    here are tacotunes videos on the tear down:

    the interior of the truck uses lots of clips. these clips need to be properly attached to the panels. the perfect tool for this is wire strippers. using these will prevent you from breaking the clips:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    on the front doors, remove the sail panels. pull from the edge. there are 3 clips:
    [​IMG]

    if any of the clips stuck to the door, make sure that you attach them to the sail panel:
    [​IMG]

    on all the doors, remove the trim piece behind the handle using a pry tool:
    [​IMG]

    remove the screw behind the trim piece:
    [​IMG]

    pull up the little carpet piece on the door pull. you can pinch it with your fingers. and then remove the screw:
    [​IMG]

    pry up the door control panels using your fingers. these can be tricky. dont pull at too much of an angle; you dont want to break the tabs. if it wont come off, push it back down and start from the other side:
    [​IMG]

    remove the wire harnesses. each door has a different number and size of connectors. they all have tabs to press in to remove them:
    [​IMG]

    on the front doors, this little button clip is near the door hinge. push the center section until it clicks and pushes in. this unlocks it and then you can pry it out:
    [​IMG]

    you will be taking apart so much in the truck. put all the door hardware and trim pieces in zip lock bags and tuck them into the door pocket of the door they came from:
    [​IMG]

    with the hardware removed, you can pry on the edge of the door panel. the panel will come off easily. with the panel hanging from the window sill, lift it with one hand from the bottom and one hand from the top. the panel will slide out of the sill. with the panel in one hand, reach on the backside of the panel and unclip the white and green cables. IMPORTANT-be sure to remember which cable goes where (write it down). for me, it was white on top, green on bottom:
    [​IMG]

    if any clips remain in the door, remove them and attach them to the door panel:
    [​IMG]

    on the rear doors, remove the button clip and the upper trim panel. the panel easily unclips from the truck:
    [​IMG]

    remove these clips from the door and attach them to the panel:
    [​IMG]

    pry up the front and rear door sills on the passenger side and the front door sill on the drivers side. they pry up very easily:
    [​IMG]

    on the smaller rear seat, remove the 4 bolts holding the seat down and remove the seat from the truck. again, use the zip lock bags. you dont want to lose any hardware:
    [​IMG]

    on the back of the passenger front seat, remove the 2 plastic panels covering the seat bolts. these are a bitch to pry off:
    [​IMG]

    remove the 4 bolts from the passenger front seat and tilt the seat backwards:
    [​IMG]

    with the seat backwards, you have access to the wire harnesses. unclip all 3 and unclip the wire loom indicated by the arrow. once these wires are removed, remove the seat from the truck by taking it out of the rear door:
    [​IMG]

    remove the shifter handle by unscrewing it:
    [​IMG]

    the center console panel prys up, but it can be a pain. you can try from under the console lid or from the side of the console panel:
    [​IMG]

    remove the carpet from inside the center console and remove the 4 bolts holding it down:
    [​IMG]

    disconnect the wire harness and remove the 2 screws:
    [​IMG]

    lift the center console slightly up and to the rear. it pops out easily:
    [​IMG]

    remove the dash speaker covers. there are 4 clips near the vent and 2 tabs near the windshield. pull up near the vent to release the clips and pull towards the rear of the truck to slide out the tabs. the center speaker panel just pulls straight up:
    [​IMG]

    unbolt the large rear seat and tilt the seat forward resting it against the drivers seat. be careful of the mounting pin. it can tear your carpet or puncture it. i recommend laying a moving blanket or thick towel in the back:
    [​IMG]

    with the back seats removed, you can see the rear panel of the cab. i was surprised to not see a finished plastic panel instead of this rubber mat. remove the plastic tabs and the rubber mat:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    all torn down. be sure to place all your interior pieces in a safe place. you dont want to damage anything. this is also the point where i said, "holy shit, what have i got myself into?" :) hah... a few hours later, my wife came out and said, "holy shit, what have you got yourself into?"
    [​IMG]


    ==========================
    4 - remove stock equipment
    ==========================

    remove the stock amp. pulling up on the plastic cover will pull the 3 plastic tabs up a little. then you can pry them off:
    [​IMG]

    remove the stock amp. there are 3 bolts:
    [​IMG]

    remove all the door speakers. on the front doors, there are 4 bolts per speaker and on the rear doors, there are 3 bolts per speaker:
    [​IMG]

    remove the dash speakers. each speaker has a wire harness that easily unclips. you will not be reusing the dash speakers:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    at this point, there is no turning back. you are in it for the long haul. tearing down the interior took me about 90 minutes.


    ==========================
    5 - run the power cable
    ==========================

    this is by far the hardest part of the installation. that 4 gauge wire is thick and it is wider than the hole that you have to push it through. Tacotunes recommends silicone spray. i didnt have any and it was a pain in the ass. here is their video:
    to the left of the emergency brake pedal and the below the wire harness, there is a hole with a rubber nipple on the end in the engine bay. here i am pushing a screw driver into the nipple:
    [​IMG]

    its tough to see here, but the nipple is just below the wire harness:
    [​IMG]

    here is the nipple cut off:
    [​IMG]

    after about an hour, i finally got the wire through the hole. i ended up pushing it through with a flathead screwdriver. this was one of those moments where i wondered if i should have paid for the installation :)
    [​IMG]

    from the inside of the truck, the wire will be run behind the carpet:
    [​IMG]

    behind the brake cable:
    [​IMG]

    behind the pedals:
    [​IMG]

    and around to the center console. tuck the wire up the side of the console. you will see it appear inside the console:
    [​IMG]

    pull it up through the inside of the console:
    [​IMG]

    i coiled up some of the slack inside the center console:
    [​IMG]

    route the wire under the rear vents:
    [​IMG]

    there is just enough wire to reach the amp:
    [​IMG]


    ==========================
    6 - assemble and install the ANL fuse holder
    ==========================

    here is the tacotunes video
    the actual fuse was a little different from the video, but it was easy to assemble. at this point, do not connect it to the battery:
    [​IMG]

    the kit did not come with mounting hardware for the fuse. fortunately, i have a drawer full of screws.


    ==========================
    7 - begin to assemble the amps and the amp rack
    ==========================

    here are the tacotunes videos:
    mount the distribution block to the amp rack:
    [​IMG]

    mount the subwoofer amp:
    [​IMG]

    mount the door speaker amp:
    [​IMG]

    attach the 8 gauge power wires:
    [​IMG]

    attach the 8 gauge ground wires:
    [​IMG]

    attach the fuses:
    [​IMG]
    the mounting point on the rear of the amp rack is large than the stock amp. this will require some carpet to be trimmed by about 3.5":
    [​IMG]

    2 cuts will need to be made:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    lift up the carpet and locate the ground bolt:
    [​IMG]

    remove the bolt and sand the paint off the metal:
    [​IMG]

    connect the ground wires from the amp to the ground bolt and connect the power wire to the amp. the power wire will run up through the grommet on the amp rack:
    [​IMG]

    attach the bass control cable to the sub amp and route the cable to where you want the bass control knob to be installed. i chose to install it where tacotunes recommend in the center console, but the cable is long enough to reach anywhere in the truck:
    [​IMG]


    ==========================
    8 - tune the amps
    ==========================

    before completing the installation of the amps, they will need to be tuned.

    tacotunes provides a great video on how to do that. it is very important that this video is followed exactly:
    the amp for the door speakers comes with several harnesses. prepare one of the harnesses to be used for tuning the door amp:
    [​IMG]

    i chose to use the white wires. use electrical tape on the ends of the gray wires. i didnt have clamps for my multimeter, so i taped the probes to the white wires. ensuring the correct polarity. also, set the multimeter to ACV 200 (A with the tilde over it):
    [​IMG]

    connect the input wires (blue harnesses) to the amps and connect the white wire from the multimeter to the front channel of the door amp output and set the amp levels. this is where you want to follow the video instructions very carefully. i printed out a detailed list of instructions to follow and had my tuning CD and multimeter ready:
    [​IMG]

    connect the negative back up to the battery and connect the amp power to the battery. then start the truck and check that the amps turn on (blue lights on the input side of the amps). this is where i ran into a problem. the subwoofer amp would not turn on. i rechecked all the connections to no avail. i thought maybe i got a dead amp which is the worse thing that could happen in the middle of the installation so, i tried contacting their support methods and within an hour on a Sunday morning, Daniel got back to me:
    [​IMG]

    there is a blue remote wire that sends a signal to switch on equipment such as amps. in the tacotunes video, it said that the blue wire was not needed for their amps, so i didnt not think to connect it. however, connecting it to the subwoofer did get it working.

    so now, onto the tuning. start the truck, verify that the amps are on and insert the tuning CD. turn the volume down to zero and set the treble, mid, and bass to the middle and set the F/R L/R fade to the center:
    [​IMG]

    next, you are going to turn the volume up to 50, read the multimeter and enter the value on the tacotunes filter calculator. repeat this for the rear speakers and the subwoofer. this was easy and went smoothly. by tuning at a volume of 50, 50 now becomes your max volume. this is done so that there is no distortion from the head unit that is sent to the amp.


    ==========================
    9 - finish assembling the amps
    ==========================

    run the subwoofer wire to the back of the truck. you can tuck the wire under the pillar panel and along the door sill. the wire can also be tucked under the trim to the back of the cab and out past the carpet. there will be extra wire. save it for the subwoofer box:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    finish installing the amps by bolting it to the truck and cleaning up all the wiring. here is my finished amp installation. the arrow shows where the blue remote wire is connected to:
    [​IMG]


    ==========================
    10 - assemble the subwoofer box
    ==========================

    here are the tacotunes videos:
    spread the poly fill throughout the subwoofer box and assemble the terminal cup:
    [​IMG]

    create the 4 jumper wires and patch wire:
    [​IMG]

    attach the 4 foam pads on each speaker (they have adhesive):
    [​IMG]

    on the left speaker, attach the patch wire and the jumper wire:
    [​IMG]

    attach the patch wire to the right speaker with the jumper wire. then attach the wire from the terminal cup. here is how it should look:
    [​IMG]

    speakers installed:
    [​IMG]


    ==========================
    11 - install the subwoofer box
    ==========================

    here are the tacotunes videos:
    there is a bracket that holds the jack toolkit. remove the rubber clamp:
    [​IMG]

    with a hammer, flatten down the front edge of the bracket:
    [​IMG]

    the subwoofer box has a cutout for the metal bracket on the back of the cab. this bracket should fit into the cutout:
    [​IMG]

    subwoofer box installed against the back of the cab:
    [​IMG]

    at this point, you should trim the plastic on the rear seats according to the video. unfortunately, i did not know about this video and did not trim them.

    move the large rear seat into place and bolt it down:
    [​IMG]


    ==========================
    12 - install component speakers
    ==========================

    here is the tacotunes video:
    here is all the equipment for the front doors:
    [​IMG]

    install the tweeters by pressing them into the sail panels. notice that they sit at an angle. adjust so that both sides are at the same angle:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    each crossover has a dB adjustment. they came with the jumper set at +3dB. i first set it at 0dB but found that the sound from the tweeters was way too much. i later went back and set them at -3dB. i recommend setting them at -3dB:
    [​IMG]

    attach the crossovers to the door mounting brackets:
    [​IMG]

    attach the mounting brackets to the door using the door pull screws:
    [​IMG]

    install the wire harness (from the kit) to the stock speaker harness and then to the crossover. attach the mid speaker wire:
    [​IMG]

    connect the tweeter speaker wire. be sure to leave extra length for the tweeter wire in the front doors so that the sail panels can sit on the dash while wired to the truck:
    [​IMG]

    the speaker kit comes with a bunch of connectors. crimp the large connector to the positive wire for the mid speaker. crimp the small connector to the negative wire for the mid speaker. test these on the speaker to be sure of fit:
    [​IMG]

    zip tie all the wires to the existing wire harnesses. route the mid wire through the grommet in the door. there is a hole in the grommet:
    [​IMG]

    the door mounting brackets are very heavy duty and they need to be pre-drilled before screwing in the speakers. i had some C-clamps to hold the speaker to the bracket and i was able to tap the holes:
    [​IMG]

    speaker installed on door:
    [​IMG]

    repeat the process for the rear doors:
    [​IMG]

    again, set the dB for the tweeter. i set mine at -3dB:
    [​IMG]

    for the rear tweeters, remove all the plastic trim around the tweeter (the trim twists off easily):
    [​IMG]

    on the rear door panel, locate the stock tweeter. there are 3 tabs holding the tweeter to the panel. it takes a little bit of work, but remove the tweeter by pressing in the 3 tabs:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    insert the tweeter into the stock location:
    [​IMG]

    zip tie the tweeter into the stock location using the clip holes to route the zip ties through. this seams kinda hacky to me, but that is what tacotunes recommended. no one will see it and that tweeter is not moving:
    [​IMG]


    ==========================
    13 - install bass control knob
    ==========================

    here is the tacotunes video:
    i followed the video and it was very easy. i wasnt sure about the knob being near the cup holders, but it is in a good position to adjust it while you are driving. drill a hole in the center console for the knob to fit through:
    [​IMG]

    drill holes in the bracing around the cup holders:
    [​IMG]

    run a zip tie through the holes and around the cup holders:
    [​IMG]

    attach the bass control unit using zip ties from the unit brackets to the zip tie that is around the cup holder:
    [​IMG]

    push the knob onto the control unit:
    [​IMG]


    ==========================
    14 - test the system
    ==========================

    with all the equipment now installed, it is time to test the system. i started the truck, selected some music from my phone, and the system rocked!! my wife heard the music from the back of the house in the master bathroom and she came running out. she said, "holy shit! that sounds awesome!" at that same time i had my neighbors looking into my garage :) the system is loud and absolutely clear at any volume level. it is truly amazing.

    it was at this point that the sun was coming over the roof on my house and it was starting to shine into the garage. the high this day was 103 degrees and it was easily 115 degrees in the garage. i had already gone through 15 bottles of water and 3 bottles of Gatorade. i was 10 hours into the install and i was feeling extremely fatigued, so i was not taking as many pictures anymore. finishing the install took another 2 hours.

    ==========================
    15 - final routing and concealment of wires and cables
    ==========================

    make sure that everything is cleaned up and all the wires are hidden.


    ==========================
    16 - reassemble the interior
    ==========================

    the center console box goes back in:
    [​IMG]

    be sure to reattach this wire harness:
    [​IMG]

    install the center console and the shifter handle:
    [​IMG]

    install the front passenger seat:
    [​IMG]

    install the rear seat, the dash speaker covers, the door sills, and then the door panels.

    yay.. done... now i can collapse :)

    i am so glad that i made a detailed list that i could check off as i went. it made the installation much easier:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    ==========================
    review of the system
    ==========================

    the system sounds amazing. it produces sound that is louder than i can tolerate. the max volume is 50, but i cant go more than 40-42. the sound at all levels is crystal clear. there is absolutely zero distortion or hissing. it is so clean.

    part of why i went with this system is because i could keep my stock head unit. i enjoy having the bluetooth, navigation, and my phone routed through the head unit.

    here is the navigation working though the new system:
    https://youtu.be/i6X4Can9Fm4

    while videos dont do the system true justice, you can still hear how clean the sound is. here is big bad voodoo daddy's on a CD at a volume of 41:
    https://youtu.be/Meunx25nr3w

    the different audio sources on the head unit produce different levels and quality of sound. here is quiet riot on satellite radio at a volume of 41:
    https://youtu.be/QnFWVWaDNNE

    the 2 12" subs absolutely rock the truck. here is going old school with the 69 boys on CD at a volume of 40:
    https://youtu.be/03HfKNpok5I


    ==========================
    review of the kit
    ==========================

    the kit is well put together and everything went together as expected. however, there were a few minor parts missing. there were 2 screws missing for the ANL fuse holder and a few missing wire connectors for the door speakers. this wasnt a big deal since i have those parts lying around anyway. also, i dont think that the kit came with enough zip ties. i ended up using 15 or so of my own. again, that is just minor stuff.

    i am impressed that the kit included the mutilmeter and the pry tools. i didnt expect that.

    tacotunes charges about $525 for the installation of the kit. after going through this project, i think $525 is totally worth it. although saving 525 bucks is nothing to scoff at. now that i have done one of these installs, the next one would be much easier and faster (especially if it wasnt 100+ degrees outside :) )

    the worst part about the kit is the instruction set. tacotunes does have an installation page that links alot of videos, but i had to go searching for all relevant videos for this kit. that being said, however, the videos are top notch. they describe exactly what needs to be done. they did put alot of effort into the videos.

    another problem is that 2 videos were missing (or at least they were not visible or easy to find). there was not a video for the rear door speaker installation or the subwoofer installation. i had to guess at the subwoofer installation and i ended up slightly damaging the subwoofer box. later on, i did get that video and, when followed, the box would have not been damaged. it is not a huge deal since the box is not visible behind the rear seats, but it would have been nice to have that video before i started the installation.

    @tacorob if you are reading this, providing a complete set of videos/instructions with a system purchase is highly recommended. i know it is tough to cover all the combinations of systems and vehicles and it takes a ton of time to produce them, but having them all available at the time of purchase (or even before) would be ideal.

    @tacorob i am not trying to criticize. you have a great product and i am trying to offer feedback that will help you make the product even better :)


    ==========================
    review of tacotunes
    ==========================

    the tacotunes customer service is absolutely amazing. you cannot get any better than the service that they provide. they go out of their way to satisfy the customer. this was evident before the purchase, during the installation, and with followups.

    when i was researching the system, i had a few questions so i submitted a ticket. Daniel answered every question very thoroughly. he was never short with me even when i asked questions that he would have considered obvious.

    when i was ready to purchase the system, he made special arrangements to have me pick up the system. normally, they are not open on the weekends, but he came in on his day off to open the shop. this meant alot especially since i was driving over 200 miles to get there and back. i just couldnt do that during the week. while i was there, i had some more questions, so he sat down with me at his computer and showed me charts and videos that answered my questions. he also took me out the shop and literally showed me how to do some of the work on a tundra that was there.

    during the installation, i ran into a critical issue. on a sunday morning, Daniel took the time to respond to my plea for help. the 5 minutes that he took to respond saved me hours of aggravation and stress. again, thank you for that.

    a few days later, i received a followup phone call from Daniel making sure that everything went ok and that i was happy with the product.

    i cannot speak more highly of tacotunes. they have earned my full trust and respect.


    ==========================
    offer for the local folks
    ==========================

    if anyone in the austin area needs help with installing one of these kits, i am happy to help. just send me a message :)

    EDIT:
    I went back and installed sound matting:
    https://www.tundras.com/threads/sound-matting-detailed-installation.31297/
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2018
  2. Jul 31, 2018 at 10:29 PM
    #2
    Pudge

    Pudge Sap Wizard

    Joined:
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    Wow great work and excellent write up!!
     
    GNTundra and Netmonkey [OP] like this.
  3. Jul 31, 2018 at 10:34 PM
    #3
    TheBeast

    TheBeast The Beach

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    excellent write up ! should be pinned imo.
     
  4. Jul 31, 2018 at 11:18 PM
    #4
    GAknight

    GAknight New Member

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    3" level kit, Icon shocks, rear bags S&B CAI, anytime fog lights, LEDs, and...list growing.
    One of the most thorough write ups I've seen. Thanks for sharing! :thumbsup:

    Just curious, did you do any sound deading while you had everything apart?
     
    Netmonkey [OP] and GNTundra like this.
  5. Aug 1, 2018 at 12:06 AM
    #5
    KC7905

    KC7905 New Member

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    Ferd'z
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    aFe CAI, unichip, Black FUEL 20” wheels, Nitto Terra Grappler G2
    Being an individual who is electronically inclined, this is the most detailed walkthrough installation found in this forum. Kodus @Netmonkey for the excellent write up. I will be looking myself to set up mine soon. Thanks for all the infos.
     
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  6. Aug 1, 2018 at 1:24 AM
    #6
    Jim LE 1301

    Jim LE 1301 Camaro Lover

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    Wow great work and excellent write up!
     
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  7. Aug 1, 2018 at 4:58 AM
    #7
    Netmonkey

    Netmonkey [OP] Don't be a Dumbass

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    thanks :)

    i had thought about about it, but i didnt. if i had tried to add it, i wouldnt have finished the installation in 1 day. if i want to add it a later date, it would be fairly easy to do. i know that some people swear by the sound deadening and have an ear for it, but for me, the system sounds just fine the way it is. it is such an improvement over the stock system.
     
  8. Aug 1, 2018 at 5:01 AM
    #8
    Netmonkey

    Netmonkey [OP] Don't be a Dumbass

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    thanks :)

    i totally underestimated the amount of time that it would take to complete this work. it wasnt technically hard, it was just a ton of steps and alot of attention to detail.
     
  9. Aug 1, 2018 at 6:10 AM
    #9
    Sas

    Sas Humor is everywhere

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    Lost track after #1.
    Superb write-up! I know what it takes to install and document something like that, so thanks for taking the time and great work!
     
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  10. Aug 1, 2018 at 8:11 AM
    #10
    Netmonkey

    Netmonkey [OP] Don't be a Dumbass

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    thanks :)

    i am a software engineer and part of my job is to design and implement new code and processes. as part of this effort, i have to document my work which includes writing instruction manuals. so this installation document is similar to the detail that i have to write at work.
     
  11. Aug 1, 2018 at 9:19 AM
    #11
    Sas

    Sas Humor is everywhere

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    Lost track after #1.
    If you're this detailed when commenting your code I envy the people that work on it after you.
     
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  12. Aug 1, 2018 at 10:11 AM
    #12
    Tundradrenalin

    Tundradrenalin New Member

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    Methods, Toyos, Kings, TCs
    TacoTunes should reference this post for CM installs.

    FYI, I had the same issue when tuning my TXD10001, forgot the blue wire. It's barely mentioned in the Utube video. And those videos are about 5-10 minutes too long anyway.
     
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  13. Aug 1, 2018 at 10:43 AM
    #13
    Fiestee23

    Fiestee23 A CHICK'S TRUCK

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    Great write up!!!! Now I want it!
     
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  14. Aug 1, 2018 at 11:31 AM
    #14
    Trooper2

    Trooper2 Membrane

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    Great write up, install, and review.

    You must have been desperate for better tunes, install this time of year! Think I would wait for first cool spell, lol - or a/c garage.....
     
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  15. Aug 1, 2018 at 12:47 PM
    #15
    Tundra Fan

    Tundra Fan Cotton Member

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    OUTSTANDING write up. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
    2 thumbs up. I had my system installed , but reading your post would have really had my thinking that I could attempt it myself.
     
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  16. Aug 1, 2018 at 6:55 PM
    #16
    Trhomas25

    Trhomas25 New Member

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    Awesome write up! Plan on tackling my install over the weekend!
     
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  17. Aug 1, 2018 at 7:47 PM
    #17
    DJFaninTN

    DJFaninTN New Member

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    I'd been in a fetal position about two hours in. Great Job!!!
     
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  18. Aug 2, 2018 at 5:25 AM
    #18
    Netmonkey

    Netmonkey [OP] Don't be a Dumbass

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    so this is interesting.... Daniel from Tacotunes contacted me and asked for the checklist that I wrote up. he thought that it was incredibly detailed and accurate and he wanted his installers to start using it. :)
     
  19. Aug 2, 2018 at 6:01 AM
    #19
    Tundra Fan

    Tundra Fan Cotton Member

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    That list was a nice touch.
     
  20. Aug 2, 2018 at 7:28 AM
    #20
    Trooper2

    Trooper2 Membrane

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    How much you charging TacoTunes for the checklist? LOL! I am sure it could benefit them.

    Couple comments:

    -I only watched one of the videos, the Amp Assembly. I was curious about the terminations with the given terminal blocks and wire size. I was somewhat impressed that they showed to move or"wiggle" the wire after initial tightening then tightening again. I would add to check terminations again after a a few months to a year. Heat from (current) use could cause the terminals to loosen a bit over time.

    -As inquired about, Sound deadening in doors and maybe back of cab would enhance your new system even more. Thinking that just have removed those panels it could be a somewhat shorter job.
     
  21. Aug 2, 2018 at 8:48 AM
    #21
    Netmonkey

    Netmonkey [OP] Don't be a Dumbass

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    hah... i guess i could have charged them :) but i am happy to support this local company. if they can benefit from my work and make their process more efficient and accurate, then its all good.

    i can recheck those connections later on.

    yeah, if i want to, i can always add the sound deadening later on. it would be an easy job now that the system is already installed.
     
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  22. Aug 2, 2018 at 12:21 PM
    #22
    hypa

    hypa New Member

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    I'm revisiting my tacotunes install this afternoon to deaden the doors. I found that the mid bass is severely lacking in this system. Talking to the guys at tacotunes, sealing the doors really helps the mids.

    It really is a great system though. I was quoted twice as much through my local stereo shop.
     
  23. Aug 20, 2018 at 8:39 PM
    #23
    zlaneb

    zlaneb New Member

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    Hey @Netmonkey Thanks for taking the time a couple of weeks ago to meet me and let me hear the system. I'm very impressed with the sound and the professional write-up you did. I just need to find the time to order the system and get moving on the installation. Kid is heading out to college this week, giving me some free time to contemplate doing the install or having TT do it for me.
    Thanks again!
     
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  24. Aug 21, 2018 at 4:29 AM
    #24
    Netmonkey

    Netmonkey [OP] Don't be a Dumbass

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    you bet. it was nice meeting you. the offer still stands if you want help with the installation.
     
  25. Sep 23, 2018 at 7:30 PM
    #25
    TheBeast

    TheBeast The Beach

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    i'm in the middle of the audio upgrade. I went with everything aftermarket and decided to run new speakers cables. That definitely add time but worth it.
    now about to add sound mating on all the doors while I wait for tacotunes speakers adapters. I went with Kappa speakers after hearing them in my buddy rock warrior.
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2018
  26. Nov 10, 2018 at 11:32 PM
    #26
    RB1

    RB1 New Member

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    Netmonkey, this is an awesome post, amazing detail and super helpful.

    In your OP you mention you listened to your buddies System 1 Starter kit ... I'm curious to hear your impression of the sound differences between Stock, Starter 1 and the System 1b ... how dramatic is the diff between them all?

    Thanks
     
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  27. Nov 11, 2018 at 4:23 AM
    #27
    Netmonkey

    Netmonkey [OP] Don't be a Dumbass

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    hah... well.... the stock system is crap so almost anything is better. the system 1 starter kit is far superior to the stock system... the difference really is amazing. However, the system 1B kit packs much more power than the starter kit. the sound quality is just as good, but it has much more volume and punch. the starter kit has a single, 5 channel amp that puts out 75 watts to each of the doors (2 speakers in each door) and 350 watts to the single 12" sub. While the system 1b kit has 2 amps. One is a 4 channel amp that puts out 100 watts to each of the doors (2 speakers in each door). And the other amp is 1000 watts that powers the 2, 12" subs. The speakers in both systems are the same.
     
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  28. Nov 11, 2018 at 7:59 PM
    #28
    Jai LI

    Jai LI New Member

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    Rear sway bar, CAI and sound deadening
    Really is an awesome post. Going to install the System 1 this weekend in my Tundra using Netmonkey's instructions.
     
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  29. Nov 22, 2018 at 7:34 AM
    #29
    Mr Swervlin

    Mr Swervlin "YES.....In Dee Face"

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    Thanks for your post. Very cool of you to do this for us stereo rookies. So....maybe I missed it but, once the floor Jack is removed I'm guessing it doesn't go back to its original placement because of the sub box. Where did you relocate it? Thanks again
     
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  30. Nov 22, 2018 at 10:53 AM
    #30
    Netmonkey

    Netmonkey [OP] Don't be a Dumbass

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    so, the jack is not removed. it stays in the original location. as you can see from this pic, the sub box sits right behind the jack:
    [​IMG]

    what does get removed is the tool bag. the bracket that originally holds the tool bag is what gets flattened down to allow the sub box to fit behind the seat. i just tucked the tool bag behind the seat and next to the sub box:
    [​IMG]
     
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