Switchpro Mounting place?

That is a nice and clean photo to follow, thanks!

 

Anybody mounted the RCR Force 12 switch panel in the 2.5 Gen Tundra? I am still looking where I will be mounting it

 

It doesn't interfere with the mirror at all. When I'm driving around I don't notice it. I'm 6'0" but I don't think height matters. It does block the sunglasses holder in this position, but can be adjusted out of the way pretty easily.

 

Did you have to get another (longer) wiring harness besides the one included with the 9100 to run it to the overhead mount? Was it hard to route it up there?

 

No, I had plenty of cable. My switch pro is in the back corner of the engine bay above the brake booster. On the fuse box would also reach it seems. I came through the firewall in the factory grommet by the parking brake, up the pillar and into the space above the headliner. I don't have pillar air bags, but I think plenty of Gen 2-2.5 route up to the overhead console as well.

 

no, the wiring was long enough

 

Hey all, I know this is an old post, but I am "FINALLY" getting the final wiring done, hopefully this weekend.
Question for you, what battery terminal billet did you use? I think I saw SDHQ ones?
Also, as far as tapping into the fuse box, online YouTube said to just tap into the main fuse box in the engine bay but @alb1k said to tap into the cabin one, doesn't that require to re-route it through wherever you routed the wires through the firewall (that was a whole different nightmare for me...)

 

Yes I have sdhq terminals(unfortunately, but that’s a different story) I tapped in to the main fuse box. The one in the cab is a smart idea but running the cables is a pain for me. Fuse box it was. Easy peasy

 

For me, since I had to run the switch plate / control panel in the cab, it only made sense to run the other wires with that harness. I see others do it differently. SDHQ battery terminals.

 

I guess I have no choice but to go with SDHQ products then. Not that I don't like them, just seems a bit expensive.... Buy once cry once I guess? LOL
It took me close to two week of lunch time to get it through the firewall, and honestly, if I can't get that damn truck on a full lift, I would ditch the truck than go through the firewall again.....lol
I cheated on that, too, I ended just pushing it in from the side of the rubber gasket, and pray that it does not create a leak point into the cabin, so far, so good....

 

You didn’t see the nipple in the grommet? Just need to lube it up lol

 

I did, but the way it was stuck behind, it was super hard to get it in there without breaking my arm.....lol

 

This. Cut the nipple and use a good pull setup and lube. You may have to push the grommet back into place.

 

I guess.... I do need to re-run the whole cab setup again so might as well...... (welp....

 

I used one of these and lube lube lube lol trust me it wasn’t easy as I have big hands but it worked

 

Don't think we need the whole 40ft but yea, a good piece of wire to do the pull through..... I have been sitting on this for way too long....

 

I ran some 12ga solid copper wire. I taped it a long way, but without good cable pull lube or something similar, no way. Good news is it's watertight once it's through. I didn't pull the pins, so the plug was the challenge.

 

That's why I cheated, because I couldn't get the plug head to come off.....

 

Looks like I started with 12ga wire to some pull cable.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-2wd-dc.86734/page-10#post-2548322

 

Just seeing this as I'm away at work, but SDHQ Billet Terminals for the win! Pricey but good quality. Engine compartment fuse box mount, running the cable inside was a bit of a pain with my big hands but I went through the nipple using a cable puller and some lube. SDHQ billet mount on the console for me as it's a good accessible, unobtrusive spot for the SwitchPro control pad.

 

I used the metal plate that came with the Switch Pro . Routed the cable from the brain to the switch panel behind the side curtain airbag , up from behind the dash. Org plan was up the B pillar (sounds dirty lol) , but the connector was too large to go over a roof support. I ended up buying a new longer cable since the stock one was not long enough for my org plan. $68 oops . Need more pics , lemme know .

 

Looks great. Way to go with the heat shrink terminals. I've thought about the panel cover - but sometimes I slide my finger to hit multiple switches. Good job.

 

thank you. The pic reminds me I need to pull that one wire and put it in the expanded / braid wire protector. Side note, I ditched the Amazon craptastic terminal/shrink tube and bought from polar wire instead. It’s about 3 times the price, but it’s rapidly apparent that the quality is better. Side side note, took me some fiddling to fire out how to release the trim piece that covers the side curtain airbag. Small tab that has to be pressed in to get the bolt cover door open. Yup found that bolt behind the SRS oval from a write up on a 2008 Highlander…

 

I love my Amazon 3X shrink w/ adhesive. The shit is bullet proof. But not all Amazon is the same.

$26 Wirefy 5/16" Heat Shrink Tubing - 3:1 Ratio - Adhesive Lined - Marine Grade Heat Shrink - Black - 50 Feet Roll

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08W9TJYWV?ie=UTF8

 

This may require a YouTube heat shrink face off. Hahaha.

 

Lol, you know what you are dealing with when you go to cut it off for a change of lighting. I do that a lot it seems. Challenge accepted. Not that we need one...or...do...we?

 

Here's my last challenge/example. Open beer with a ring. It's fast because my camera man wasn't ready, lol.

https://youtu.be/Lo53-QA83Kk

 

I picture rigging up heat shrink’ed wire and hanging weights off of it. Let’s just convince Project Farm from YouTube to do it for us…

 

Ha! If he did heat shrink, he would probably have it underwater, pee on it, try to drag a tree...