Switching to 5w30?

Almost but, the fact he bought FORDS is the main reason. FORD = Found On Road Dead / Fixed Or Repaired Daily / Fat Or Redneck Driver / F'er Only Rolls Downhill / Forgive Our Retarded Design / Found On Reservation Dump / Flip Over Read Directions...

 

In the late sixties with the GT40 in Le Mans it was First On Race Day.

 

He bought whatever he could get cheap at auction. Dodge has been better to him than Ford. He's never owned a GM, as far as I know.

 

GT40 was more Carrol Shelby than Ford.

GT40 lived in spite of Ford.

there, I said it.

 

My father-in-law and brother-in-law never bought anything but blue Ford pickups. In the 50+ years that I've known them I can remember three. They buy them, abuse the hell out of them, and they just keep going and going. My father-in-law is long gone, but my brother-in-law has a 2005 with over 300,000 miles on it. And as far as I know, they were never overly obsessed with maintenance. And asking them to use anything but plain old Quaker State dinosaur oil would be like asking them to join the Communist party LOL

 

I still have to find time to finish watching that movie.

 

I guess they changed it every 3000 miles. Here’s your recipe how to get 300k out of an engine.

 

Based on the very good book, "Go Like Hell" (that'll probably get censored)

I actually don't know, but I bet they changed it a lot. I agree. Change it often, and it doesn't much matter what you use.

 

Yup and I was a big fan but that car and the preceding wins with the Mk 4 until the FIA banned big block engines to get rid of us.
Fact is, those cars and what comes out of detroit are waaaay different.

 

It's a great movie and true which makes it amazing.
The latter version, the Ford GT MK4 was on a different level than the standard GT40.
Honeycomb aluminum for the cell structure, aluminum block and heads and the introduction of the Holley center squirt 750 cfm carbs that approached injection efficiency without the headaches.
Ford got the best drivers they could and then took 1 thru 3 in those endurance races.
Thats when the FIA had to do something to slow us down so they banned big block engines.
To this day, I give nothing but shit to the FIA for their F ups in F1.

 

That's pretty much how I feel. I sold a 2003 Tundra to buy this one and would have still be diving it if I hadn't bought a trailer too big for it to pull.

 

My reason for selling the Element.

 

+ 1million on most folks in Houston!

This is why we don't buy anything used. Not a knock on anyone who does, but the extra $ to not take responsibility for someone else's potential irresponsibility is worth it to me. And admittedly, I'm not as OCD as many on here, but I do better than average and don't abuse my stuff. But also, I'm not keeping records for the next guy either - I'm not maintaining this for the next owner, I'm doing it for ME.

 

So I think there is a consensus that 0w20 optimizes for fuel economy. What weight optimizes for protection?

My truck is at 53,000, PO always had it changed at the dealer 0w20. Oil changes are documented on Toyota.com for my vin.

I'd switch if I knew a heavier oil would increase protection in any material way.

 

5w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40, no issues at all. Valve train is so much quieter with those than 0w-20. Toyota wouldn’t list 0w-20 if they thought it wouldn’t be enough protection, especially for heavier towing. My wife cars also calls for 0w-20 but it sounds horrible. I run 5w-30 in that as well and the noise difference is night and day.

 

If by protection you mean boundary friction reduction, you are entering the friction modifier territory. And it is a slippery slope (pun intended) lol.

 

This group is tempting me to switch to 5w30 in both of my 0w20 Toyotas.

My Sicon calls for 5w20, but it has 107k on it. It used about 1qt in the last 2k miles. I've read that motor has oil consumption issues. Something about an undersized piston defect. I already bought 5w20 for it's next change this month. Tempted to try 10w30.

 

Put simply, if 0w20 increases fuel mileage, there has to be some trade off. Would a 5w30 reduce wear?

 

0w20 fuel saving mostly comes from lower viscosity shortly after engine start, the difference at the operating temp is negligible. As far as the wear goes, racing oils seem to be on a thicker side.

 

go for it.

you won't hurt anything.

Since Costco has 5w-30 in fully syth...I'll give it a go for the spring.

 

I keep my cars 10+ years, so only buy new. My wife swaps every 4 years so CPO or used makes more sense.

 

I'm by no means defending the Carfax company, but I had a small Insurance claim on a car that ended up on carfax. I accidentally tipped over one of my motorcycles in the garage and the mirror scraped across the door of my M3 requiring a dent and paint repair. Even though the claim was not collision and the company was hackerty and no police report filed etc it showed up on the Carfax.

 

Mmmm...............

Let's try this. The 0:35 mark.

 

Ouch

 

Very strange. No insurance should or would want to give information to Carfax it just causes a diminished value case. As much as I hate to say this Carfax is more thorough than Carcheck BUT neither is worth the report fee as they assume zero responsibility. Again get your vehicle inspected by an independent source that is you only chance of not having somehting missed. Especailly if they test evey panel with a pant gauge to determine paint thickness.

I would never buy a wrecked vehicle that suffered mechanical damage such as Engine, AC, suspension. Insurance companies require the body shop to use the cheapest chinese made garbage if the vehicle is over 2 years old EVEN if the vehicle is repaired by a dealer bodyshop. Now if damage is cosmetic, bumper, hood, fender and it looks good and there is a price adjusment no problem.

 

Wow............

 

For what it's worth and to those saying these engines don't burn oil, I lose about a quart of oil every 7000 miles, and change around 7500. 2016 with 67K miles on the clock. Live in socal and drive very short distances daily- gym is 1.5 miles away, work is 2 miles away. Make those drives about 3 times a day to and from as I go home for lunch. The engine barely has time to warm up some mornings. No signs of any oil leaking. I think it has a lot to do with driving situations. I have never used anything other than mobil 1 0w-20, but I'll be switching to 5w-30 this weekend to see if that changes anything.

I've also started riding a scooter to work because f*** these gas prices!

 

Is your truck FFV?

 

Negative

 

You might get away with an aggressive engine flush, there is a chance to get your oil control rings unstuck. This guy explains the process really well:
https://youtu.be/4jeSwK_xEck
I also do a whole bunch of short trips to daycare and work. But I change my oil every 2500 miles with cheap mineral oil (under $3 per quart).