Switching to 5w30?

At -35 degrees C and lower your gasoline might not evaporate readily and provide enough vapor pressure to ignite. That is also why engine block heaters are popular in colder climates.

 

Which brand do you recommend instead?

 

If you want an oil that cleans and works great, HPL. They have oils specifically tailored to cold climates as well since you're in Canada.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...base-oils-that-run-clean.354558/#post-6109295

 

Anything Dino-based or semi-synthetic (colder climates), and change it at 3000 miles. It has worked for generations and always will.

I like Super Tech - $24 for 8 quarts is hard to beat.

 

Not 100% scientific and it’s not all 1 brand, but this is kind of a cool test showing flow at room temp and -11 Degrees Fahrenheit with 0w20,5w20 and 10w30. May as well skip ahead to around 9 minutes where the test starts with room temp oil. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sZJnKfw3WQA

 

I've read somewhere that if you go with more aggressive solvents(?stuff that dissolves?), it has an adverse side effect where your gaskets get eaten away quicker. It was some credible no name Joe.

Either way, Joe praised mobil1 since it has perfect balance of solvents(?stuff that dissolves?).

 

Please explain the "...does not provide enough dissolving power to keep polymer vm in solution at engine operating temp" a little better. I'm curious about this.

My last two vehicles that were sold with over 200k miles each used Mobil 1 at 5k to 7.5k mile intervals. The valvetrain was very clean on both when sold.

 

This is an interesting article on this topic:
https://www.stle.org/files/TLTArchives/2013/12_December/Feature.aspx

Mobil 1 had their hand slapped when they tried to use a synthetic formulation in aircraft piston engines: oil additives precipitated under normal loads and sludged up expensive engines.

It is really a hit or miss situation if your synthetic oil is thermally stable and doesn’t drop additives. You might have been lucky.

 

My dad has 2 interesting toyota engine experiences.

05 gx470, he changed the oil maybe 3 times in 90k miles, engine was totally shot, heavy knocking could barely idle.

02 landcruiser with 4.7, 2 oil changes in 120k miles, then sat for 2 years. Fired up with new battery and ran perfect

toyota builds tough engines, we overthink it by a mile. Who cares what brand oil you use, if you change it in reasonable intervals you are probably in the top 20% of all auto owners.

 

As I have stated in the past, a friends Jeep 4.0L went 188,000 miles without an oil change.

 

in regards to cleaning...

I ran Castrol whatever in my old Acura integra.

My dipstick had all kinds of varnish on it. (stay on topic)

When I started using M1 - it cleaned the varnish off off my dipstick on the 1st change.

Kirkland 0w20 keeps my dipstick clean as well.

if you have varnish on your dipstick, you are doing it wrong.

it is important to use quality lube.


I love oil threads.

 

A buddies FIL used too do his oil changes by just adding when it got low. After 4 quarts he’d change the filter and add what oil that was required. Never lost a motor. Never had any motor wear issues. Used whatever oil that was on sale.

 

Those would be my ‘winter’ oil picks for colder climates.

 

what is this "winter" y'all speak of?

I might want to go see it.

 

Seems accurate.

 

My brother took good care of his house and remodeling, but he considered all the new electrical gizmos like windows and sun roofs junk. He added oil when the add oil light came on. I used to “store” his old Tercel when he worked in NY on broadway. I changed the oil once for him after he was gone for awhile, I swear lumps of rust came out. It ran perfectly. He only got 13:years on his original battery tho.

 

Considering switching to 0w30 for the 5.7 in my 2016 Land Cruiser. To date I’ve had 5k changes with Toyota 0w20 synthetic at the dealer (cheap oil change coupons). 63,000 miles. Any brand recommendations for 0w30?

My use case: in Florida so no cold weather. Lots of short trips where oil doesn’t get to temp, so thinking I should stay with a 0W oil. But also periodic towing of a 4500lb boat, thinking 30 would offer more protection. Plan to keep the truck forever. Appreciate any advice.

FYI the factory fill on Land Cruiser 5.7’s is 5w30 synthetic in the mideast, Australia and Russia, where they sell many more LC’s than the US. It reinforces the idea that 0w20 is for CAFE, not vehicle protection.

 

30 grade oil is fine.

In Florida, there will be no difference in 0W or 5W winter rating. The difference is at temps well below freezing.

I would use 5W-30 or 10W-30.

 

I like Mobil 1 in the 0W30 flavor.

 

Here’s all protection you can have, dirt cheap. I would change it every 3000 miles considering short trips.
Good enough for South Dakota.

 

Well, you guys convinced me. Listening to actual engineers is absurd and the quieter the engine must prove its better. I've starting running this and in one hour my engine is the quietest it's ever been. Literally it's like it is off. Dead silent. Must be better.

 

Try the 75W140, talk about quiet !

 

Did you miss this fact? It indicates the engineers prefer an oil heavier than 0-20.

 

I run 5-30 in both my Land Cruiser and Tundra.

 

When I bought my 2007 Tundra the only oil readily available was 5w20 and that was what Toyota recommended. If I could cold start my Tundra a thousand times in temperatures as cold as -50 F (lived in interior Alaska) I’m pretty sure that Tundras in the rest of the non frozen world can cold start with any 5w oil without consequence.

 

Is there a reason, besides price, not to go with 0w30 instead of 5w30? I know 5w30 will work fine, but so will 0w20 as evidenced by lots of high mileage Tundra’s. I’ve seen comparisons of flow at room temperature and the 5w oils are thin, but not as thin as 0w oils. This may not make a real world difference, but I’m wondering why 0w30 isn’t more common. Thoughts?

 

My thought is 5w should stick around better in the top end at the higher temperatures I see offering better startup protection than 0 weight in the valve train - this is speaking more to oil dissipation after shutdown than flow upon starting…

 

Lots of people are afraid of the 0W oils, but the 0 weight is only at cold startup, once hot, it acts like a 30 weight. On BITOG many years ago there was a thin/thick battle that raged on and on, learned alot from a guy there AEHAS was his screen name. Highis end luxury cars, was very passionate about oil. Of course the naysayers badgered him until he just quit. There is a TON to know about oil, and we just scratch the surface.