Startup Oil Burn & Drivetrain Abrupt Engagement

I've noticed a couple things lately with my truck, but didn't want to create separate topics for them. Truck is a 2017 FFV at 46,xxx with Toyota maintenance whole life so far.

1. Blue smoke on startup:
I've noticed this twice, first time about 1.5 weeks ago, and second about half a week ago. Truck sat at work, I start it using mt tech 12 volts remote start and instantly after it fires up a puff of blue smoke (not the normal condensation) comes out, and that's it. Definitely smells like burnt oil. This is sitting 8ish hours during the day, after about a 28 mile freeway commute. I've been watching every start after the first occurrence, and it only happened that second time. I'm going to stop using the remote start and see if that matters (have no idea if it would).

I did find this topic: https://www.tundras.com/threads/blue-smoke-blues-update-dealer-states-failed-pcv.25274/ which sounds very similar. Is there anyway to test the PCV valve? I'm going to start checking oil level too to see if it's burning any slowly.

2. Hard/abrupt engagement in drivetrain:
This has been going on a little longer, maybe 3 months from what I can remember. Whenever I'm coasting in about 20-35, foot off throttle, then slowly get back on the throttle I can feel a pretty good jerk. It takes off fine, shifts fine, I only notice it at these speeds getting back on it. Any ideas on this one? I think I may do some tests in the S mode to see if it also happens there.

 

PCV valves are 'checked' by removing and shaking them, s/b a rattle.

Has driveline been lubed?

 

I have not myself, from reviewing the service notes they haven't either. I'll have to take a look tomorrow and see if mine has the zerks or not, I thought I read '17 year some had them and some don't anymore. Thanks for the info.

 

It could be valve stem seals, but I fear it is coking something your going to have to live with... Toyota cant design oil control rings properly, my 2003 camry 278,000 miles with the 2AZ-FE has coking issues as well as my tundra with the 3UR-FE. I did a lot of research before i bought my truck, I knew about the coking issues with the 3UR-FE just going to have to accept it.

 

Mine does not have jerks. 57k and I saw puff of smoke once on start long ago. My oil has dropped a cup in 7k.

 

(1) Typically caused by oil leaking down through valve seals into cylinders while vehicle is unused. Indicates worn or excessive clearance in valve seals, or worst case, worn valve guides. It is not harmful, but it is annoying in that your truck is imperfect. The fix is expensive. This condition may indicate less than optimal maintenance (OCI), poor oil quality, or may simply be selection of valve stem tolerances on the low side (bad luck). Remote start is unrelated.

(2) Toyota did not invent the automatic transmission, and they sure as hell haven't perfected it. I also have a 2017, but with A760E transmission (4.6L). It occasionally does the same thing: slow engagement on restart after slowing to near stop. Control of gear selection in automatic transmissions has gotten more and more complicated as the government has demanded better fuel economy. Toyota intends to minimize engine braking while slowing or coasting, and lock/unlock the torque converters as frequently as possible for efficiency, etc. Combine that with a platform that is designed for work (torque application) rather than exceptional passenger comfort (e.g. Mercedes salon sedan), and it is further complicated. Frankly, I find Toyota's AI-Shift is pretty irrational sometimes, but I accept those limitations. Unlikely S-Mode will have any effect on shift points; S-Mode simply prevents the transmission from shifting into gear ranges higher than the one selected.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I checked oil yesterday and it looks full yet. Might just have to deal with it unless I notice it keep getting worse.

I also greased the rear shaft zerks (3). I wasn't able to get to the front zerks because of my RCI skids, they were a pita to install by myself in the driveway so I didn't feel like dropping them to do it... Maybe one day if I'm really bored I'll try to get to those. Used the Lucas Oil Red n Tacky stuff until they came out the seals. Some really nasty looking black stuff came out after a good amount of air. Judging by the paint and grime on the zerks (cleaned them off with wire brushes first) they were never done by the dealer.

I haven't driven it around yet but I'll see if it helps. I hear ya on the auto trans thing, there's so much brains on them it probably hurts more than it helps.

I'm about done going to the dealer for any service. I had the Toyota care for the first 25k I think, then I kept going every 5k, but they've messed up a few times...

• I took it in to replace a blown out tire, just wanted an oem replacement and move the spare back to the spare mount. Went in and waited 30 minutes to tell me they had the wrong tire shipped. Went back and they replaced it, next day I noticed the hub center cap was gone, had to go back again for them to replace that.
• Forgot to reset the maintenance due reminder.
• They move my seat and don't put it back, unless you're like 4'5" or 6'5" you can move the truck to the service area without needing to adjust the seat...
• I have the RCI skids with the nice convenient door for oil changes, they've put it on backwards more than once.
• wtf is Duramax oil?
• Replaced cabin filter without cleaning debris out of the blower so I had a nice vibration in there until I took out like 6 acorns.
• They obviously don't do the manual recommended 'milestone' maintenance.

Sorry, just venting now...

 

That "really nasty looking black stuff" was likely the lithium based, molybdenum disulfide fortified grease Toyota put in there at the factory. There is no better grease imo. That "red and tacky" **** I'm not much a fan of that, but if it's reasonably slick and you keep pumping it in, it'll probably do fine.

Welcome to DealerCare. No surprises there. I say "DealerCare" because most of us learned long before ToyotaCare was invented to avoid any dealer visits, including free oil changes. Collateral damage can be about equal to the original problem, which might not get fixed either. Nobody touches my truck but me.

 

I'm not against getting better grease for it, I'd totally get the oem grease that's used even if it's expensive. Is there a direct replacement for it? I just got the grade grease that Autozone had (I can walk there in 2 minutes).

It did take 5 or so pumps to get all the air out though. I plan on doing it after every oil change now.