Sound deadening

VB-3Formable Floor Barrier Material

VB-3 is designed to be used over highly irregular areas of the floorpan such as the transmission tunnel and over the wheel arches. VB-3 consists of two layers of 1/8" neoprene foam that sandwich a lead core. One lightweight layer of VB-3 is equivalent to 4 or 6 layers of a heavy vibration damping sheet. (and about 4 to 6 times as expensive.)
See here: http://www.cascadeaudio.com/car_noise_control/vb_3.htm

 

Oh wow, that's some serious stuff then.

 

I almost ordered me some, but will try this first, https://gpcaraudio.com/gp-stfu-v2-250mil-40-sqft-10-sheets/ . The cost of vb3 is astronomically high.

 

You will not regret buying the vb-3
NOTHING compares to it.

 

I talked to Earl at Cascade Audio. He loved the idea of selling me some vb3 and 4. He quoted me a price of $207.00 for a 49" x 36" roll of vb3, and $102.00 for a 54" x 37" sheet of vb4. I thought about buying some but considering Im not independently wealthy, I decided that taking out a loan just for sound deadening wasn't something I was prepared to do. I haven't researched it much but I bet I could make something similar myself for less money. My first search came up with this: https://www.rotometals.com/lead-sheet/sheet-lead-1-64-1-lbs-sq-ft/
and this: https://www.amazon.com/closed-cell-neoprene/s?k=closed+cell+neoprene
and here:

$260 Trademark Soundproofing Mass Loaded Vinyl 1lb - MLV Soundproofing for Wall Sound Barrier - Sound Insulation - Made in USA - 4' x 25' Covers 100 sf - Made in USA

https://www.amazon.com/Loaded-Soundproofing-Barrier-Highest-Quality/dp/B007N3356S
From cascade website: VB-3 consists of two 1/8" layers of closed cell neoprene foam that sandwich a 15 mil thick lead sheet. Thats 0.015 of an inch.

 

Try this stuff it’s cheap and easy to install.

$75 KILMAT 80 mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://www.amazon.com/Kilmat-Deade...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

Nice!
I bought some of the mlv too... I put it in the walls of my house. But in my truck, I didn't want any funky smelling product that may or may not perform as well as a multi-million dollar company has engineered to perfection. Maybe it's just me, but I've worked with Cascade products for over 25 years, and they consistently out perform all other products I've seen.

I worked with M.I.T. on their autonomous vehicle projects with the gov. I was tasked with reducing in cab decibels so their systems could properly monitor all aspects of necessary data. I was given a Humvee and M.I.T. engineering recommended to use the same materials that NASA used on the space shuttle... Cascade
I took their advice, and successfully surpassed the goal they set for me. (I don't remember the exact numbers but it was around -40db of noise attenuation).

Since then I've been forever spoiled... and broke because if it. LOL. But my truck is as quiet as it is in space.

Good luck, and whatever you can do, it will only help, no matter what. I do like your ideas to do more than just some stick-on tiles. And please be careful with the raw Lead that you might handle, it is highly toxic! Always use appropriate gloves, and wash vigorously if it contacts your skin.

 

Is everyone removing the factory vibration dampener tiles before adding new stuff? If not, what are you using to clean the remaining butyl left on the door skin after removing it?

 

The mvl I ve bought in the past had no odor. Though at any rate, a little research saves a lot of headaches. After thinking about it Im going to stick the gp stfu deadener, https://gpcaraudio.com/gp-stfu-v2-250mil-20-sqft-5-sheets/ to sheet lead, https://www.rotometals.com/sheet-lead-1-64-1-lb-sq-ft-1-x-20-full-roll/and lay it down like that. I wont even have to glue it. Maybe even a layer of mlv over the top of that. This site has a lot of good info and tutorials on sound deadening, https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products
And it will still be cheaper than vb3 by far.

 

I don't think it's necessary to remove the factory dampener.

 

Oops, it was coming off at the ends, so I pulled it out. I've only worked on the rear doors, and only installed the speakers so far. I'll leave them on the front doors then. Should I add to them or apply the new stuff over them?

I'm using 80mil Noico and not going for 100% coverage. I'm not worried about sound proofing, so no ccf or mlv. Im mostly looking to kill as much vibration as possible and improve the performance of the new speakers, on a budget. I also bought butyl rope to go between the outer door skin and crash/support bars, cloth tape to wrap wiring and fasteners in (also saw that butyl rope can work for fasteners too), ccf weather stripping to fit between hard items, and ccf rings/pads for the speakers.

 

Ppl often put multi layers of the deadening on and there aren't any adverse effects so you shouldn't have anything to worry about.

If the factory stuff is coming loose then I'd remove it. It's important that the material is adhered firmly to the door panels.

 

I ve been looking for larger rolls of acoustical lead than 1 ft wide and I found this;
https://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/noise_barrier/acousti_lead.htm
It s 4 ft wide so it would be a lot less work closing up all the seams. I have to call them Monday for the price. They don t provide it on their site.
Talking about the different materials that absorb sound, the table on this website; https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/sound-speed-solids-d_713.html shows common solids and their respective acoustic velocity, (the smaller number the better.) Seeing this, the use of butyl rubber, and lead is no surprise.

 

I’m installing SoundShield throughout my cab tomorrow, will update with my impressions.

EDIT: I didn’t get it installed due to rain. But it’s still on my agenda to get done soon...will update.

 

Subd

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/hertz-group-buy-sound-deadening-thermal-teatment-install.55346/

 

OK, I got the SoundShield sound deadening material installed in all 4 door panels. I originally wanted to do this because my front door panels would rattle with intense bass at high volume levels. It wasn't actually a bad speaker but instead it was the plastic door panel rattling itself as a result of the output of the speaker behind it. (Side note: I've had 3 Tundras at varying levels of trim, with and without aftermarket speakers, etc...and they have all done this..) If I just press my hand against the plastic door panel speaker grill, the rattle stops. So my real goal here was to stop that, and since the door panels would be off up front, why not take them all off and do the whole thing.

I only took pictures of that specific fix, but I did put the material everywhere on the door panels.

What you see in the pictures completely fixed my speaker rattle in the front door panels.

The JBL System (I know everyone will tell me how crappy it is...but whatever) sounds SO MUCH BETTER with the sound deadening material installed. It's almost like I got an additional subwoofer, it definitely sounds like it. And everything is richer. I was considering changing my speakers out but at the moment, I am completely happy with my sound after this install.

Also...as a side benefit...shutting the door has such a satisfying sound now. Sounds like a true luxury vehicle.

 

This GP STFU sound deadener is pretty much the same stuff.

Three layers; butyl, foil, and CCF. Not sure if there are different grades of soundshield, but calculating thinkness from specs on this site, https://www.bestcaraudio.com/product-spotlight-soundshield-sound-deadening/
it comes out to about 180 mils.
gp deadener,https://gpcaraudio.com/gp-stfu-v2-250mil-40-sqft-10-sheets/
is 250 mils thick. I ve no idea what part is thicker though as I don t have soundshield in front of me to see. I ordered 40 sq ft a month ago, and finally got it today. I know what I ll be doing this weekend.

 

I installed a decibel meter on my phone after I removed most of the interior in the tundra today. (still have the center console and driver seat to go.)

I took it for a drive, and these are the results:
@ an idle - 36 to 38 decibel
@ 35 mph - 52 to 56 decibels
@ 55 mph - 60 to 62 decibels
@ 70 mph - 68 to 72 decibels
I will take readings again after I apply the acoustic lead, and sound deadener.

 

I didn’t have any Kilmat leftover but if any vets or LEO out there could use the rollers send me an address and I will send them out for free. Not a big deal but just a small token of my appreciation for your service.

pm me with shipping address

 

Finally installed some of the GP Audio sound deadener. It goes across the back of cab, and I ran some inside the hollow areas of the rear pillar. I was very surprised of the difference that small amount made. I think the back of the cab was absorbing/reverbing a lot of sound because now it s like I have better mid bass speakers. I actually hear deeper bass. A few times I heard deep bass while driving, and looked around at all the cars around me to see where it was coming from, and realized it was coming from my truck.

 

Modern idea is that you only need about 25% coverage of sound damping to get pretty much 90% of the benefit. If you want to block out road noise (rather than just shut down rattles) you need to go the mass loaded vinyl route. I did the full damping, ccf, and mlv. The acoustics in the cab are excellent. But it took me 40 hours and that was after I did the sound damping. (and I used too much!)

read more here:

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

You hear this and that. I ve researched the sound deadening/proofing idea for some time, but when it came down to actually applying the deadener, a few taps with knuckel told me if the area needed some or not. For me, any flat surface that s floating; that has a hollow echo when tapped, will get deadener. Logically, it makes sense; all the areas that have this hollowness adds to the total loss of sound quality, so I figure, every area I deaden is an improvement.

 

I like to check out this mans build pages occasionally. His skills are on another level, and gives me motivation to do it all myself.https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/b...ck-nasty-1641-db-outlaw-1626-db-sb5/#comments

 

Oh yeah, I agree mostly. Cover more = it will help. Diminishing returns and all that and sound damping is expensive compared to mlv on a sq ft basis. MLV made a much bigger difference than damping in my 02. I highly recommend if you are willing to put in the massive effort. People have measured these things as well.

 

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/sound-speed-solids-d_713.html
Looking at the chart, lead, and butyl has some of the best numbers for slowing velocity of sound. I did nt do a lot of searching, but I started looking for butyl sheets with no foam, or foil backing. My thoughts were; butyl first then a sheet of acoustical lead on top of it. Butyl would keep lead secure and help strenthen it. If there s foam under the lead one could rip it if too much weight was place on it considering how delicate a 1/16" thick lead sheet is. Over the lead ccf and or mvl could be applied. already started with this foam backed stuff, so I will use it all up, and maybe my next build I will try the butyl/lead way.

 

Nice!

I am going to post my install here soon. I have to organize my thoughts and the photos. I used the Q logic box for two 8 inch subs that takes place of the rear passenger storage in my access cab. That sub just tied it all together and we rockin now.

 

Today I ordered Ground Zero Sound Deadening for my front doors, the GZDM Door Kit Pro from Mayhem Audio in Arizona. This might very well be the best way to go.

 

Well, I will find out how well I did with sound deadening cause I just bought a hell-born monoblock: An Apocalypse AAK-6000.1D . At 4 0hms it will run cool as a cucumber at 1700 watts.

 

Nice! I am going back into my door panels to tape down more of the mlv, installed new plastic panel clips, etc. I totally missed the rear door panels have this honeycomb plastic piece that is very loose and I suspect it is causing noise, not so much with the stereo but when hitting potholes.

After that, I think I will pull off the front dash panels completely to find anything loose. Again, it is more for when I hit potholes.