So ... you wanna buy / just bought a 1st Gen Tundra, eh?

It's a group effort. It was build by a number of us, I only organized it and keep up with it. If you (or anyone else reading this reply) find something lacking or missing, drop me a PM. I get at least a couple PMs per month and a couple of post tags from folks who want updates. Always happy to oblige.

 

Maybe I should just ask here.....I've seen videos online about getting the radiator replaced. Where to go to buy a new radiator? Does the transmission cooler come with it?

*I've seen at least one video talk of the Tundra's radiator leaking coolant into the transmission....is that a thing?

 

Denso. Rock Auto or any parts store that carries Denso. No, the transmission cooler doesn't come with it, you just reuse your old one unless you think it needs to be replaced for some reason.

Yes, it's a thing. It's why many here recommend proactively replacing an old radiator.

 

Yes, "pink milkshake" is a thing and gets touched on in the 1st reply of this thread. It's possible they fixed the radiator design at some point, because it seems like not all radiators have the shit fittings that separated.

RockAuto has been pretty good to members as far as getting radiators to them undamaged. I've had great experiences with Summit Racing too. But don't rely on their website to get you right. Always go to www.densoautoparts.com to look up your part number, then search those sites for the part number you need. With radiators, be careful to read their instructions. They'll typically have notes "with double cab" or "w/o double cab". The radiator size is different, one is taller. If you have a double cab - i.e. a 4door truck where all four doors open normally, not the 4 door where the rear doors open backwards - then order the correct radiator for "with double cab". This is only an example - look up your own part number at that website I linked!

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Its a "warmer", inside the base.

 

I went to the toyota website listed to look for OEM parts but my vin isn't found. Actually, it's asking for a frame number, different from VIN?

What other websites are recommended for OEM parts

 

If you had a custom package you may be using wrong VIN. For example, X-SP package trucks had two VIN. Confirm the VIN on the dash matches the VIN on the driver door sill sticker.

 

I was just on the wrong website someway somehow, got it sorted

 

I wish this write up existed before I had the "wire harness into belt" issue that took me a while to figure out back in 2021... I was probably one of the examples that led to it's inclusion on this list... Haha. I threw a bunch of parts at it thinking it was fuel related. ended up not a bad thing though cause I used some of those 100k mile parts from my 05 DC to refresh my 220k+ sequoia.

 

Hey what type of fluid should 1gen use in transfer case, rear/front diff? Throughout the forums I see people say 75w90, but the manual I downloaded says 75w140.
I've also seen other people say just use regular oil, 75w for transfer.

I also saw people recommend RedLine, but all their stuff says for LSD, which mine is not. Maybe they were recommending it for newer gen Tundras?

I see a lot of info that seems contradictory, and it's hard to tell if it even matters. Would be great to summarize it in the OP

 

75w90 is what was originally used from the factory, although I'd love to know what they were putting in the LSD rear.

There was some chatter on here, and I asked the local specialty shop and the dealer when I went in for recall work on our 2020 Highlander. Both techs said, "Toyota instructed us to use 75w140 full synthetic Toyota fluids now." I asked about LSD rear. Specialty shop said "Lucas 80w90", while much younger tech at the stealership said, "use additive if it chatters".

Understand something crucial. WHERE YOU LIVE is important to what weight of fluid you're going to use. If you're in the deep south, you can use a more viscous fluid because it doesn't get as cold here. If you're in the far north with subzero winters, that shit is going to be pudding in winter.

In light of that, I think it'd be pretty irresponsible to say, "always use X!" when we have two members from Alaska posting in the main forum lately, and it won't apply to them the same.

Given what I saw when I emptied my transfer case, I doubt I'll change fluid again without a reason. Front diff, rear diff, they need to get done. That said, I'm honestly going to just use Lucas 80w90 in both diffs at my next change. I'm not towing, so that'll be every 30k, if I were towing then 15k.

 

Went back and double checked the manual, does this look right? Should I just use 75W-140 on both diffs? Planning to use 75W-90 on transfer.

I'm in northern New Hampshire. Things get cold here, but p much the same as back from Buffalo NY, and I don't drive a whole, tow even less than that, lot so I'm not gonna stress this too much. Just want to make sure I have it right so I can unflinchingly trust my notes here forward

 

75W90 in all diffs and transfer case. If no LSD, then synthetic is fine.

edit: 75W140 is good for rear diff w/non-LSD. I’ve always run 75W90 in mine.