Replaced timing belt and now no start.

I cranked the motor over by hand multiple times and everything seemed fine. Put it all back together and went to start it and nothing happens. Doesn’t turn over or click or anything. I checked several fuses and didn’t find any burnt. I did notice that the radio goes completely blank when I try to start it and comes back in when I let go of the key after not starting. I removed and reinstalled the camshaft position sensor multiple times still no start. I also had the ignition to the on position and heard a buzzing noise when i unplugged the camshaft position sensor. The truck does turn over if I leave the camshaft position sensor unplugged it started and ran rough briefly before dying. What our your alls thoughts?

 

I mean when you said 'no start' I immediately though, "You fucked up the timing, didn't you?!"

If this is a V8 - since you gave us zero details and we have no clue what engine, cab, drivetrain this truck has - the two camshaft position sensors aren't as important as the crankshaft position sensor. Which are you actually talking about here?

The electrical symptoms you describe could be as benign as a bad battery or corrosion in your cables, or a loose ground for that matter. But you should also know that there are two coolant temp sensors, one routed to the ECU and the other routed to the gauge cluster, and they'll cause a no-spark condition. They're side by side next to the TB.

You really need to go back over your wiring connections. Unplug and re-plug everything. Tug on things. I suspect you have something loose. Also, confirm the damn battery.

 

Thanks. I forgot to add its a 2006 tundra 4.7 liter, sorry! I have a Toyota battery on it that is 1 year old. I currently have it on a charger and intend to check it tomorrow. Having beers with friends tonight. This is my 5th timing belt(different vehicles)in the last 2 years, but still lack confidence. YouTube warrior with these timing belts. I think it is the cam position sensor. Up on the driver side of the engine not down by the crank.

 

Cam position sensor being mangled, dysfunctional, or unplugged shouldn't cause the interior symptoms you described. Low/dead battery could.

It's very likely not something you did wrong with install. Just know there are a lot of things that could cause a no-spark/no-fuel condition when doing TB/WP.

 

Yeah, when the radio shut off and came back in I started thinking battery. Just odd happening after a timing belt but it has been in the garage for a week. No click or nothing but blower, blowing so hard, made me think something else is wrong. Radio though makes me hope it’s the battery.

 

Before you do anything else, try turning the engine by hand (with a socket on the main pulley)

These are interference engines, it's possible if the timing is far enough off, for the pistons to make contact with the valves, preventing the engine from turning at all.

Edit, never mind, I see you said you can get the engine to turn over.

 

Hence “I cranked the motor over by hand multiple times and everything seemed fine” . However, I’m not sure my opinion matters much! I haven’t cranked an engine over by hand other than one I have put a timing belt on so I’m not sure what I should be felling. I will say no binding and the marks came back in time.

 

Well, it means that anything else aside, you're not smashing your pistons into your valves and the engine isn't seized (A while ago we had a thread here where someone was complaining their engine wouldn't start, we all made suggestions related to electrical issues, turned out the engine seized and that was why it seemed like the starter wasn't working)

 

Does anyone have a good link to testing the sensors? Also would a cam position sensor tell the ecu not to start. I ubplug it and it turns over I plug it back and it does nothing.

 

Is this the original to you camshaft pos sensor or a new one ?

06 FSM has a couple checks for sensor connector, one is with a volt ohm meter but nothing for sensor itself that I've been able to find except making sure it's installed properly.

 

Sounds like a battery tbh

 

I had a similar issue with a corroded ground cable. Water had rotted out the inside about 6” in from the battery. Simple disconnecting the battery was enough to break it loose internally, visually it looked fine.

I cut it back to good looking wire, and soldered in about 10” of new 4ga. Fixed it good, and has been on their for 80k.

 

The radio turns off when you crank it over (or put it to "start") to send max current to the starter. This is normal. Hell I've reset my radio after it froze by just turning key to start while driving. If you're in D it cant do any harm.

If you're sure it turns over good with a wrench then you may consider jumping the starter relay and seeing if it cranks over that way.

 

To that point:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jWouSQYTnU

 

I just want to thank everyone! Here is where I am now. I have taken off the left and right timing belt cover. I turned the crank bolt and this is where everything is lining up.

 

Shouldn’t the mark on the crank point at the 0 and the marks on the right and left cam point at the timing marks in the cam. Or the marks on the belt should be pointing at the T mark on the left and right cam and at the pin to the right of zero?

 

I think the marks on the belt are messing with me. Looking at it the cam pulleys are lined up with tdc and the crank is pointing at zero. So I think everything is lined up. Please correct me if I’m wrong. I’m just a YouTube mechanic!

 

It is the original.

 

Just to save a lot of typing, click this link, watch the 1st video please:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/timing-belt-on-05-tundra-4-7-2uz-fe.113004/#post-2913731

And if there's any confusion or you want a sanity check, watch his full video. It'll give you all the tips and guidance anyone on here would be able to give.

 

Try a different battery or take it to one of the parts stores to get checked. Your timing is lining up so that is not the issue.

 

Got 5.01 on this test. Looks like it is good. Now how do you check the cam sensor rather than the harness?

 

All the diagnostics he's pulling are in the FSM. Check the links near the top of this thread (Link name: "Service manuals").

 

I got the service manual but can’t seem to find how to test the cam sensor. I did pull the starter relay and it shows bad according to the test in the manual. Bad time for it to go bad but I’m hoping that is all it is. I would like to check it before I put it all back together. Especially that damn fan!

 

Doing valve cover seals while I’m waiting on the part to come in. This might tell someone with a more trained eye whether this is at top dead center. I still have the crank pointing at the pin 50 degrees? The marks on the cam pulley are pointing at the T marks on both left and right cams. This is a photo of the right side

 

It's easy to test whether the starter relay is bad, after you get things buttoned up. Video in reply 14 shows how to jump the pins.

 

There are no procedures in FSM of how to bench test a Camshaft Pos Sensor. The other tests they show deal with checking continuity back to ECM and proper O'scope patterns with Sensor installed. There are ways to test the sensor found on YouToober and if you find any they need to be the 3 wire Hall-effect type which it mentions in FSM.

Here's one that's not a Tundra specific vehicle but the principle is same since he's checking a Hall-effect Camshaft sensor.
Took me a bit to get past his accent but have been following his channel for awhile due to the vehicles he works on.

Starts roughly 2 min mark if interested BUT heed his caution and don't fry your ECM !

 

Man, I wish my top-end looked that clean.

 

Anyone know what kind of paint they use that's able to last this long?

 

I took it to a parts store and they said it passed but 1 cell is bad. I hooked my jumper box to it and still no love!

 

While waiting on parts thought I figured I would go ahead and replace the valve cover gaskets. Seems pretty straightforward but while removing the bolts I snapped two flush with the block on the drivers side. I'm ready to burn the truck down but I would have to push it out of the garage first . Any good recommendations on removing them? I have never had much luck with ez outs but I can't think of any other alternatives.