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I have a pretty nice 2000 Tundra Limited I have had for a couple years. When I bought the truck it was at ~125k miles if I remember right and looked great except it had a crack in the top of the radiator (lucky it failed there). Had that replaced at a shop right away with an oil change and I was off to the races. I have since replaced tires, kept up on normal fluid changes front struts, and upgraded the cluster's lights to LED. Steering has no play so I believe LBJ are fine. I baby it, and its probably pretty under used for its capabilities. Always letting it warm up and the oil pressure come down, I drive it soft, mainly just a grocery getter/daily. I have considered downgrading to a tacoma for that reason, but man, the prices on tacomas are at or over the price of tundras in the same condition and it doesnt make sense to downgrade like that and not get any money back.

The truck is now at 143k. In the owners manual the previous owner had written the timing belt was done in 2014 at 78k miles. So this is within the mileage, but outside of the age which I believe is a greater concern. I move in 2 months (to a location I can actually work on my truck) and am mechanically inclined enough to tackle this myself to save money. I am planning on relying on the truck for the move, but the second my boxes are moved in I am parking it and doing the timing belt/water pump. This is where my first question is, should I just buy the AISIN timing belt kit with the water pump or should I also get the Fan Pulley Bracket as well? Its not something I am sure if I should be worried about, or if there is a reccomended service life. I know if it was to fail down the road, it would be basically tearing everything apart to the same state, but at the same time I dont want to get sucked into useless "while im there I might as well" and end up throwing away money. Also is the front main seal something i should be worried about while I'm there? I did that on my old s14 which required far less removal to access and it still was not the most fun job so I have a bit of hesitancy to just trying to get it.

My valve cover gaskets have been leaking a little for pushing a year now, so that will also be addressed during the same time. May do spark plugs too, still thinking about if that is necessary or not. Other issue I found is the only little area of rust the truck has is around the windshield. Whenever it rained hard, I would get water around the sunglass holder, which a previous owner had drilled a hole in the plastic trim (im guessing to drain the water). I only discovered this 6 months in to ownership, and it only happened if it rained VERY hard. When the top trim around the windshield started to look bad, so I took it off naively to see if I was just able to replace it and found there was a little rust, really not much. I have temporarily filled it with silicone to seal the windshield, but I know I will have to address that and buy a windshield at some point. There is no rust elsewhere on the truck, have to love Florida.

Is there anything else I am missing? Any input on the Fan Pulley Bracket is appreciated!

 

Your LBJ comment shows you haven't read anything here about them. If you were feeling play in the steering because of a LBJ, your tire would have already fallen off. LBJs are routine maintenance. Like changing the oil, you don't want till you notice the truck driving bad before you change the oil. Every 100,000 miles is a decent schedule.

Read your owner manual. "Warming up" isn't necessarily bad, but the manual urges you not to let it sit idling. I've learned over the years to just let it run long enough for oil to circulate, then I drive it gently till it warms up. I might let it run 30 seconds to a minute when it's cold out. But I don't let it sit idling. Only if it's sub-zero will I actually let it warm up.

Not sure about the bracket.

 

Noted! I guess I will have to add LBJ to the list. Ill stop letting it warm up as well. I appreciate the input on that!

 

If the LBJ's haven't been replaced. Just do it. It's 4 bolts and 1 nut On each side.

no, you don't need a fan bracket.

 

There is a time interval for the timing belt. For 2000 models, Toyota recommended 6 years. By 2004, it was 9 years. Seems it may have been 10 years on the 05-06 trucks, but the mileage interval has always been 90,000.

If you fan runs true and the bearing is quiet, then you are probably ok reusing the existing fan bracket. Just keep an eye on it. Its what I have done with mine. That said, the 2003 needs one now at 135k miles. I sure wish that I would have replaced it a few years ago when I did the timing belt.

Due to miles, age, and the fact that you'll be doing a timing belt soon, might go ahead and get the Toyota or Aisin part. Its a bit over $100, but you are already there doing the timing belt and water pump.

My opinion is the 1st gen Tundra is superior to any Taco, so you have the better truck.

I would re-assess the lower ball joint situation on your truck. If you don't know the history, it wouldn't be a bad idea to go ahead and get the proper LBJ and bolts from a Toyota dealer.

 

Here's a thread of people who thought LBJ's weren't THAT important.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/first-gen-lower-ball-joint-lbj-failures.141860/

 

Some folks suggest replacing the front crankshaft and camshaft oil seals while doing the timing belt. Others, such as myself, are still running the original crank and cam oil seals at nearly 400k miles in a 2UZ with a miniscule amount of weeping. Personally, I would only replace them if actively leaking and coating the timing belt cavity with gunk. Others will recommend replacing them as preventative maintenance, so the choice is yours. Catastrophic crank or cam oil seal failures are not a problem with the 2UZ.

I always replace the fan bracket when doing a timing belt with

$118 AISIN FBT-002 Fan Pulley Bracket - Compatible with Select Lexus GX470, LS400, LX470 Toyota 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra

AISIN FBT-002. A seized up fan bearing will send your fan into the radiator.

Replace the lower ball joints WITH OEM TOYOTA JOINTS if you have no record of them being replaced.

 

Thank you @87warrior @FishNinja and @dt325ic ! I will be following yalls advice!

 

Yes, yes he may. Had my fan bracket shear off and grenade inside the engine bay…truck was only 150k miles.

 

Order placed on AISIN Timing kit with the fan bracket, OEM LBJ with bolts, and a Fel Pro valve cover gasket. I decided $100 may not be worth the risk of having to tear this all apart again down the road. I appreciate everyone being kind and knowledgable.

 

If you're doing valve covers, make sure you get a good quality FIPG for the half-moons. We've seen too many people recently who redid their valve covers, then found oil leaking all over the back of engine and trans, and I'm fairly certain it's because they didn't do their half-moon plugs.

Toyota FIPG p/n is: 0029500103

 

Furthermore, valve covers-wise, if you haven't seen this, read it: https://www.tundras.com/threads/valve-covers-fix-or-leave.105385/#post-2712883

Reply #18 specifically

 

That is the exact stuff I ordered! Thats what I saw when I looked into the online reviews on it as well. Thank you!!

 

Excellent. Tips on finishing the job in the follow-up reply, I doubleposted like the asshole I always wanted to be.

 

Sorry to reply on the thread one more time. How long has it taken you in the past to do the TB? I am hoping to do it in one day, but checking with you if that's a good idea to attempt. Starting pretty early in the morning. Then the LBJ will be next week most likely when those come in the mail. But that looks like a hour job.

 

I'm still 3 years out from doing mine, a great thread to check may be here.

The general consensus I've heard is all over the place:

• 4 hours if you're a pro or knowledgable and truckin'
• 6 hours to a day if you're organized and familiar or may've done it before
• Aim for a casual weekend if it's your 1st time and you may need to ask questions as you go

 

I prefer to do the timing belt in two leisurely 3-4 hour days. The amount of reaching deep into the engine bay will test your back's flexibility.

Even though I have done a few 2UZ timing belts, I am working in a basic home garage and it never seems like I have all of the needed tools located when starting the job. I also like to let the gasket maker on the thermostat housing set up overnight before refilling the cooling system. Haven't had a coolant leak yet and would like to keep it that way.

 

Ditto. I chose not to do my timing belt this time, but with any big job like this, especially if it's your first time, plan on a whole weekend, if you have that freedom. I understand not everyone has the schedule flexibility.

One thing I know for sure: if you rush this job, you'll be sorry. And the time and money commitment may skyrocket. I never enjoy, and often get bad results, when I rush a job.

I planned a whole weekend for upper ball joint/front shocks and coils. I could have finished in one day. But there was no way to know. Instead I spend Sat morning having breakfast, reviewing the tutorials, got started around 10am. With a trip to town for parts, ended the day around 5pm with one side completely done, other side taken apart. Started again after breakfast Sun at around 9:30, finished by noon.

Total time working on the truck was probably 9 hours.

I was staying with a friend and he wanted to hang out, otherwise on Sat I would have stuffed a quick dinner in my face then finished the job. But everything went much smoother, with less frustration, the way I did it.

 

+1

I've wrenched my whole life and it still took me the better part of 8-9hrs (over 2 days) for my first time. It's not hard, just time consuming.

 

If you're the type to organize tools the night before, wake at 6:00, drink the coffee and eat the eggs by 6:30, start wrenching by 7:00 and work through the day/evening with a good set of skills this is a one day job. If you're like me, finish breakfast by 9:00, start wrenching by 10:00, move slowly, stop for lunch and watch the how-to vids/read the threads this is a weekend project.

The big time-sucks are gumption traps like frozen bolts and stupid mistakes or not having supplies like FIPG and anti-freeze on-hand. Those can push you into the next day.

 

Breaking free the crank bolt, no FIPG, and wrong serpentine belt were my ETA downfalls.

 

Ugh. That'd be a disappointing turn of events. I'd've opened the first beer of the day shortly thereafter.

 

Did he actually mean breaking, or that he had trouble getting it to break free? Cause yeah, actually breaking it would suck.

 

I think this the plan will be to attempt it in one day starting at 6 or 7am, we will see how it plays out. I work from home, so I am not too concerned. Too many times I have told my girlfriend "should be an hour, its not bad" which turns into 4 hours of frustration and a few beers. Breaking a crank bolt sounds like a nightmare though. Its been a florida truck for almost all of its life and has never overheated so I would hope that the bolts come off fairly easy. I got the crank bolt holder to try to give myself the best shot at an easy job.

 

breaking free.....I think I would of given up on life if I actual BROKE the bolt

 

Getting the right tool for the job was the hard part. Bremen chain clamp from the freight worked like a charm

 

I dont think I need a chain clamp though, I have a timing belt. Unless im wrong. I have everything packed in the truck, ready to head over to my friend's house tomorrow. Starting tomorrow. I picked up the crank holder, a hermonic balancer puller. I have all the sockets and wrenches (im going to remove everything by hand instead of impact to avoid snapping a bolt), floor jack, jack stands, all the fluids (lot of brake clean and PB blaster just incase, even though the truck is not rusty, coolant, trans fluid), breaker bars, coolant bleeding kit, of course the whole timing belt kit, and of course plenty of beer/energy drinks to keep us hydrated. Plan with him is tomorrow I get over there at about 7:45-8:00 in the morning, and going until the job is done with no breaks. Just ordering food to the house via uber eats. Pray for me guys. I know its ambitious, but im going to attempt it.

Also, to make the job more dificult we are planning to quickly knock out the LBJ while the truck cools down. One person each side. I have all the bolts, castle nuts, and pins for it.

 

Bag all your parts. Use painters tape on any connector as you disconnect it as a flag/reminder to reconnect. MAKE SURE YOU ROUTE THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR HARNESS CORRECTLY. Don't let the cams jump on you when tossing on the belt. Check this vids in this thread for insight. If you get off a tooth on timing, there's a trick someone just posted in there I'd never seen.

Chain clamp isn't what you're thinking. Chain clamp to hold pulley while you whizz off the crank bolt.

​

 

Ah I see. Wouldnt that serve the same purpose as the as the crankshaft holder (

$81 Schley Products 64300 Lexus And Toyota Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XDBBG)? I could be naive to that. The cams jumping timing is definitely something I know I need to be aware of. I have been watching a video recently where I believe I saw someone move it past about 10 degrees because they do seem to want to jump back. I will be following the reccomended videos while I do this step by step. The crank position sensor is a good tip. Also the painters tape is a good tip.

 

These work great too