PROJECT: TACTICAL TUNDRA CREWMAX TRD PRO AUDIO UPGRADES

Audiocontrol is pretty good, i would think. The guys on 5starstereo on YouTube uses them a lot on customer build.

 

Yes it is. They're decent. The LC-6 -1200 does not have a DSP. The Audio Control D-6 -1200 has a DSP and retails for $1100 . The Helix is superior to the Audio Control and sells for just over that.

 

Audio Control sponsors 5 Star Car Stereo. Why wouldn't they use them?

 

The best DSP you will find will be the ARC Audio PS8 or PS8 Pro.

 

I think the Best Awarded DSP you will find is the Helix DSP Ultra.

 

From a competition perspective I will run the Arc Audio processor over the Helix any day of the week.

 

Sounds like it.

 

Got it, thanks!

 

You get what you pay for.

 

True. Well, I do plan to keep my TRD long term.

Guess Santa will be visiting early in 2021!

 

@Vector W8 , if you had a choice, which would you run...PS8 or PS8 Pro and why?

Also, haven't discussed whether I will need a capacitor or not? The first installer said a capacitor is just a band-aid and if I go that route I might as well get a higher amp'd alternator and forego the capacitor. Does this make sense? ‍♂️

 

Im running a PS8 in my set up. There are a few differences in the program set up that the Pro has that would be nice to play with. But bang for your buck the PS8 is one hell of a DSP. I have been building SQ competition systems for over 30 years. The PS8 is the best processor I have found for building a system that sounds perfect.

I have been pro sponsored for many years. I have built some incredible systems. I use to have an old Sony X1,T1,P1,C1 in one of my other competition systems. The PS8 just blows it out of the water.

Also I use the less is more approach. The fewer speakers you can put in a system to achieve the end goal the better. You start seeing cross cancellation and other anomalies that will have you chasing ghosts and you wont get that 100 foot wide front stage with 50 feet of depth illusion.

I love playing Yello The race for people when the car crosses the front stage and they hear it coming in the distance from far outside of the truck. It freaks people out.

Follow my link in the bottom of my signature and you can see the system I have in my Tundra. Its not a pretty install with fancy lights, that was not the goal, It was form follows function. You will also find my RTA results in the 4th or 5th page. Look for my final curve. It was done on the 2db per octave scale on my RTA. It was good enough for Arc Audio to want to use it to show their dealers what can be achieved with the PS8.

 

Thanks...my journey continues.

 

Update: 2nd Pro Installer is not a retailer for Pioneer products so I'd have to source everything myself and they'd do complete install/tune for $446. Else, they recommend I come in to see what they have and source from their products. A visit will be necessary.

 

What shop is this and what comes with a complete install and tune for $446? I'd be VERY leery of a shop offering such an incredibly low labor rate, even more so when they aren't making any money on the equipment. Its also very rare to find an audio shop that doesn't sell Pioneer...real curious what brands they do carry.

If your goal is a budget oriented improvement over OEM, consider buying gear from best buy and doing their $200 install deal that covers 4 speakers, 2 amps, and a sub. Its not going to be over the top custom work but it will be warrantied with a big company standing behind it. If you want to go big and do it up, its best to figure out what you're really after and do it right the first time whether thats a DSP based 3 way setup or a basic 2 way up front with coax in the back doors on a 4 channel amp with high level inputs from the factory headunit.

I recently saw a high end shop do an install on 2019 tundra with JBL where they left all the speakers in place and replaced the factory amp with a Helix V Eight MK2 DSP amplifier to process and power the factory speakers. That improved sound and output enough to make that customer happy. Not necessarily suggesting that, just saying there are tons of different options with vastly different price points and trying to decide what you're after early can save you a lot of time and money.

 

$446 will sound like $446. All I can say is buy once, cry once.

 

Update:

• Sound deadening materials have arrived (i.e kilmat 80mil; noico red 150mil). Getting ready to apply throughout the cab to eliminate any rattle points and prep for a better audio quality experience.
• Purchased 12" dual sub enclosure, same one that @Vector W8 used. (FYI...For those interested, Soundbox manufacturer hasn't listed on ebay in over a month. But searched and found they're listing on Walmart.com ~$140.)
• Educated myself on Bandwidth/Frequency by speaker type, Sub vs Midrange vs Tweeter, to understand the crossover and pick components that compliment the crossover points. (see attached diagram) Next, vetting my equipment list as some items are discontinued and will post more questions under a separate post.

 

Ok, looking for some feedback on bandwidth/frequency questions from audio experts (@Vector W8 , @Danimal86 , @smslavin , @619Tundra , & others)

Thanks in advance!


Scenario: Read that it is best to use a crossover to limit subwoofer to producing sound between 20Hz and 100Hz.
Question:
Even if a subwoofer can go up to 500Hz or 1000Hz, are you missing any quality audio by limiting the subwoofer to 100Hz and having a gap in bandwidth/frequency if Mid Range only goes down to 300Hz?

Scenario: I seen some Subs with bandwidth/frequency levels that exceed 500Hz – 1000Hz. I’ve also seen Mid Range speakers that produce 300Hz that creates a crossover frequency with Subs. I’m wondering what’s the best way to maximize the handshake in audio so the components work in concert of one another.
Questions:
•What is the ideal bandwidth/frequency settings between the Subwoofer and Mid Range speakers to get best audio experience? Meaning, do you want to allow for overlap in bandwidth/frequency so Sub goes up to 500Hz and Mid Range is allowed to go down to 300Hz?
•Or is it better to have the crossover to match exactly (Sub stops at 300Hz and Mid Range Pick up at 300Hz?)
•Or is it better to have a gap between bandwidth/frequency? Meaning, should sub crossover be stopped at 100Hz and Mid Range picks up at 300Hz?

Scenario: I’ve read that if you want quality bass tones you need to get 4Ohm subs, not 2Ohm. I’ve also read that a 4Ohm system demands a lot of power from your system.
Question:
•Will running a 4 Ohm damage my existing battery/alternator setup?

Scenario: I’ve seen where you can wire 4 Ohm Subwoofers as 2 Ohm.
Question:
•Do you lose any audio quality by wiring a 4 Ohm sub as a 2 Ohm?
•I’ve read that wiring a 4 Ohm sub as 2 Ohm runs hot and can start a car fire. Is this true?
•If I get 4 Ohm subwoofers, it would be best to get a 4 Ohm Amp…correct?

 

I cant remember, are you going to be running a 3 way active? 8" midbass, 6" midrange, 1" tweeter? Nothing in the rear doors?

Theoretically you want each crossover to drop off/pick up at the same frequency...meaning subs go to 80hz, midbass go 80-350hz, midrange go 350-3500hz , tweeter 3500+. In reality, that is a starting point and you will need to adjust those after you connect an RTA and look at the graph and also listen to how it sounds.
Here's what i started with, but i ended up having to change the crossovers when there are some dips in the graph that needed to be leveled out:

I dont believe that the resistance changes the "quality", its possible that at lower resistance you are pushing the amplifier harder (higher voltage) than what it can handle and may induce clipping, but as long as the amp is rated for the resistance you are running, it shouldn't matter.
No it wont damage your electrical system running it at 4ohms instead of 2, you will have half the power though.

If your subs are DVC 4ohm subs and you wire them in series you will end up with 4 ohms load, if you run them in parallel you will have 1 ohm load. You would need dual 8ohm voice coils to get a 2ohm setup. You need to match your amp to your subs. if you try to run subs at 1 ohm load, and your amp is only rated for 2 or 4 ohms, its not going to live long.

 

Running an amp on 4 ohms will not give you more power. Running an amp on 2 ohms will probably give you twice the power. The amp runs hotter in lower ohm loads. The hot temperature demands more volts drawn from your battery and therefore may introduce distortion. Heat = Distortion. Your amp sounds the cleanest at 4ohms. The rated THD is measured in a 4 ohm load.

 

Thanks @Danimal86 ! To give you a better picture of my plan...6x9s in front doors, 6.5's w/ tweeter in rear doors and two 12" subs on rear wall.

 

Thanks @619Tundra ! I've read 4 Ohm provides better audio quality so my speakers and amps will be 4 Ohms. Good to hear 4 Ohms shouldn't cause an issue with drawing too much power from electrical system.

 

That would depend on the wattage you draw from the amp. I recommend you run an extra battery if your system is drawing anything above 2000W. It is recommend that you run a good battery and proper voltage to charge it.

 

Updates:

Rear Wall Project: 12" Dual Sub Install​

• • Purchased everything needed to install/configure subs in rear cab.
  • Scheduled install for March 3rd. (more parts in route)

Sound Deadening Project: Kilmat 80mil & Noico Red 150mil​

• • Work begins this Saturday. Never done this before, committed to making it happen.

 

no tweets up front? i'd consider 6.5 components up front as well. pick up a set of the stock tweeter sail panels and you'll be set. unless you're putting something in the dash?

 

Background: Dash has two tweeters and no center speaker as I don't have the JBL.

I would like to keep tweeters in dash. Need to see how their sound blends with other components. Then I'll determine if a slight upgrade to a mid-level tweeter is necessary.

 

Lol.

 

i did not have jbl either. speakers in the dash are trash. i would seriously consider a 6.5 component set up front. put the tweets in the dash spot or grab the sail panels for the doors. you will be a much happier camper.

 

Appreciate the feedback...constantly learning.

So when you say 6.5 up front...do you mean in the dash? If you mean in the front doors...will I be missing out by not having 6x9s up front?

Thanks!

 

you mentioned up above that you'll be putting 6.5 + tweeter in the rear doors. since you asked about crossover frequencies, i'm assuming that's a component set with a crossover? put the same set in the front doors, no 6x9. so, you'd have a 6.5 + tweeter in each stock door location. depending on the size of your tweeter, you may need to do a little dremel'ing to make it fit in the rear door. pick up the tweeter sail panels from the dealer for the fronts and you're golden.

i didn't detail everything about my stereo setup but there's a few pictures here. stock speakers are still on the doors in the pictures.