PROJECT: TACTICAL TUNDRA CREWMAX TRD PRO AUDIO UPGRADES

Hi Everyone,

My new-to-me 2016 Tundra Crewmax TRD Pro has a stock non-JBL system, which I plan to keep. The music from the existing speakers sound like a muddled tin can sound with weak bass and leaves a lot to be desired.

Reading audio threads I've been inspired by the builds from @Vector W8 and @Danimal86 .
So now my audio upgrade journey begins and I'm open to your feedback/recommendations that will help make this a nice crisp, clear, thumping sounding system. Below is my current build of materials so let's see what I'm missing:


Crewcab Floor
- Kilmat 80mil

Rear Wall
- Kilmat 80mil
- Dual 12" Subwoofer Enclosure Sub Box (Qty 1)
- Rubberized Spray – Internal enclosure
- Fiberfill(Polyester Batting)
-PIONEER TS-A3000LS4 12" Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 1,500 Watts Max. Power (Qty 2)

Dashboard
- Keep Stock Radio (Non-JBL)
- Tweeters L & R Sides (Qty 2), sourced from the Pioneer TS-D1730C 2-Way 6.5" 260 watts MAX Component Speaker System

Rear Doors
- Kilmat 80mil
- Pioneer TS-D1730C 2-Way 6.5" 260 watts MAX Component Speaker System (Qty 2)
- XTC Baffles (Qty 2)
- Fiberfill (Polyester Batting)

Front Doors
- Kilmat 80mil
- (Discontinued) Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 8" Shallow Subwoofer With 600 Watts Max (Qty 2)
- (Replacement) Pioneer TSA2000LD2 8" Shallow Subwoofer With 700 Watts Max (Qty 2)
- XTC Baffles (Qty 2)
- Fiberfill (Polyester Batting)

AMP
- Pioneer GMD9605 2000W 5 Ch

Capacitor
- DS 18 CAP2 Power Capacitor – 2 Farad


Questions:
- Am I missing anything from the above list?
- Is applying Kilmat to the floor overkill?
- Is one AMP good enough for this build?
- Fiberfill /Polyester Batting, how many yards needed for dual speaker enclosure and XTC Baffles? (i.e 3yrd, 5yrd, 10yrd)

 

Looks like very similar to @Vector W8 's setup.

Two main issues:
One problem is the lack of a dsp (vectorW8 uses the Arc Audio PS8, I'm using the Helix Pro). Since your fronts are going to be an active setup, you won't really have any way to crossover the 8" and the tweeter independently (not good).
Then you will run into an issue about not having enough channels to run all the speakers, so you could either get a 6ch amp and a mono amp (or a 2ch) for the subs, or add a second 5ch amp.

General thoughts
You might as well get foam rings (fast rings)for your speakers as well.
If you are running a single amp, 4ga ofc power wire is good enough, if you are running two amps you'll want 1/0 ga ofc wire and a distribution block.
I would recommend running new 12ga ofc speaker wires to the doors.
Sound deadening is a must!

I used a small piece of polyfill for the baffles, prob 18"x24" and had some left over. I have a ported sub box so I didn't use any in the box. I believe you usually stuff the shit out of sealed boxes, so it slows the sound waves down and makes the box seem bigger. VectorW8 will know better than i.


Post install considerations:
If you go down the rabbit hole of getting a dsp to get the best sound quality plan on working through quite a bit of a learning curve (I'm going through it right now). It won't be a "install and done.....sounds great". You'll need to spend some time learning the programs and how to tune with a calibrated mic and an RTA.
If this doesn't sound like your jam, just go with passive components in the doors subs and a 5ch.
If you are juiced about getting into the nitty gritty, then buckle up partner.....it's gonna be a helluva ride....and you'll end up with a kick-ass setup!

(Ok, I think I've edited it enough)

 

I guess I would start off with what type of tire will you run, because an AT, or MT will inhibit the sound you hear. If you have a howling tire sound to contend with it will just cause you to turn up the volume, and that begs the question, how many watts do you plan on running. There s actually a lot to consider. And that doesn t even address the changes made to the truck down the road.

 

What tires you are going to run wouldn't be my first consideration when building a sound system

 

Ask the real ones.

 

@Danimal86 , lots of great feedback! I would like to stretch my comfort zone to achieve better sound beyond new 6x9's an amp and subs. lol

 

@jwatt , currently the Michelin LTX AT's. To me...they appear to be more of a road tire despite the AT designation. However, I plan to put a more aggressive tire on when these wear out, so I would like to apply sound deadening throughout the cab.

 

Mine neither but in my case it s a releivent one, and I dealing with it right now. The trail grapplers on my truck make a hell of a howl. Thers no enjoying music unless truck isn t moving, or volume is loud.

 

...lol

 

Ok, so today's completed activities included...
1) Met with an installer to determine what they can source/do versus what I will need to source/do. Result: Revised build of materials (BOM) with installer quote.
2) Planning ahead for the sub enclosure, I purchased Polyfill, quality GE silicone , and rubberized spray.

Next steps include:
1) Determine my cost of sourcing materials to make option 1 installer solution a reality.
2) Determine another installer and plan to meet for a 2nd quote for comparison.
3) Compare quotes 1 & 2 and determine desired setup.
4) Pull trigger to source parts, prep enclosure with parts, schedule Installation Day.

 

Would just getting a good head unit be easier than dealing with the DSP? I think I would just disconnect the center channel and dash speakers and just power your component speakers in the front and rear doors with your 4ch amp and your subs with that Kicker 1200.1. When I get around to doing my sound system that is what I'm going to do except I'm going to use a 5ch amp to keep it simple.

 

@Freeezen , Good point and that's the fork in the road for me. The head unit I'd like to get is the 10.1" Kenwood, but they range from $1k - $1.5k. I could by a 7" Kenwood for $399, but if I spend $400...I might as well save a little more and change to the 10.1" down the road.
Or is there another 10.1" others would recommend...thoughts?

 

How are you planning on running 2 active front speakers (needing 4 channels) and the rear passive speakers (needing 2 channels) off of a 4 channel amp? You need a 6ch amp.

 

I like the Kenwood DMX907S. It's about $650, but the harnesses I'll need for my JBL system and steering wheels controls will get it to $900-$1000. None of this stuff is cheap. This unit has (3) 5 volt preouts for a good clean signal, 13 band EQ, wired and wireless Apple CarPlay and multiple camera inputs. My advice is don't over think it. Either just get the Kenwood you like with the features you like right now and enjoy it for years to come or decide to wait and save for the big screen.

 

@Danimal86 , great question. Installer mentioned the kicker 360.4 amp is enough to run front/rear door speakers. So it appears they are incorrect. Any recommendations on a decent 6 ch amp for my application?

 

Make sure you really trust your installer, there are a lot of really bad ones out there. And the fact that they would think that a 4ch is enough is a red flag.
If you were running a couple sets of components with active crossovers, a 4ch would be perfect.

Have you figured out a dsp? You'll want to be able to tune your front speakers.

 

@Danimal86 , the Installer recommended a Rockford Fostgate DSR 1 that can be used to tune system via Bluetooth app on phone. I've read this provides 8 ch support...does this solve the lack of channels discussed earlier?

 

Why not use Black Hole Stuff instead of poly fill?

 

You still need 6 channels on your amp.

I'm not sure about what level of tuning you can do on the dsr1, so I can't really say how itll work, but worst case if you end up getting a dsp down the road, you can use the dsr1 as a preamp (that's what I'm doing with the jl fix86)

 

Ok, I'll mark that as a question to ask. Thanks!

 

@619Tundra , Prolly because I don't know any better. This is the first time hearing of "black hole stuff" (bhs) and installer videos seem to only show polyfill.

I do see bhs available on Amazon, but it never came up as an alternative in previous searches. Thanks for bringing it to my attention...learning lots!

 

Question...is there a tool on the internet that allows me to enter the truck and audio preferences and it recommends all the parts to ensure I'm not missing any channels or other pieces?
Thanks!

 

I got the JL VX800/8 and the vx1000/1 running 2 JL 10Tw3’s. They have built in DSP and sound great.

 

You may try Crutchfield but they miss stuff and are not accurate. The best way is to contact Jerry at Hi definition Mobile Audio in Nebraska. He can set you up with what you need.

 

@VooDoo21 , quality at its finest!

 

Have you pm @Vector W8 and see what he think?

 

Just buy a Helix P Six DSP MK2 and call it a day.

 

@BrandonL812 , tagged @Vector W8 at beginning of thread. I'm sure he'll weigh in when available.

 

@619Tundra , just added +$1,400 to the budget...lol.

Looking to be reasonable on pricing and I'm not driving hours a day in my truck. If it's needed then this will stretch the build.

I have another local pro audio co to visit and get a quote to compare options. Then I should be at a point where I will decide what direction to go.

 

@619Tundra , just found AudioControl LC-6-1200 provides 6 channels and includes a DSP for half the cost of Helix. Is AudioControl a good brand?