VF Tuner 3UR Support - Development Tools

It's okay to flash the .p5f file that you have now. The TCU file will be sent to you when the one for your specific ECU has been completed.

 

Would be easier and less questionable if this procedure were documented somewhere. At least i can get questions answered here. Thank you Wynnded and Trucky Truck

 

We're on the bleeding edge here, it's crazy!

 

Yep, you need to flash that first tune, use the logger to capture how your truck runs with it and send the results back to Mat. Afterwards, he will make adjustments to your specific truck and send you another updated file.

 

TCU file is for the Tacomas.
If you get a TCU file from us it will be specified as a TCU file. Otherwise skip that part of the instructions.

 

Ok... thank you Mat. I THINK IM READY!

 

Hey Mat, what's your timeline for the tundra tune? Are you planning on getting everything finished before the end of the year? Specifically, early shifting in first gear and transmission features for all ECU's.

Towing with the new transmission update was excellent, by the way.

 

I can't promise every ECU ID will be done in time, as some are harder than others.
But I'm working on getting as many as I can done

 

No, that's good! Not looking for promises, just curious about your estimated timeline. Keep up the good work

 

one more easy question. When i turn the key to on, not start, im getting 12.2 or so volts reading. i have radio off, etc. Will this reading be ok for the duration of the flash?

 

You better put a charger on the battery... You don't want to brick the ECU. Either that or start the motor for a few minutes and get the voltage up higher.

 

i have a charger to use during the procedure.
Ive started the truck and the voltage jumps to 13.8 or 9. Normal. As soon as I shut it off it drops to 12.3 or so. With charger on, I can get it up to 12.8 and steady with the key turned to on

 

Is this a harder ecu to work on? (crosses fingers, toes & eyes hoping not)

 

So would 12.8 V be sufficient for the duration of the flash. What would the lower threshold be? just curious

 

It shouldn't drop below 12v. I think a pop-up tells you the minimum. But if you have a charger hooked up, you will be good. 12.8 will work.

 

Thank you sir. You've been a great help here

 

Why risk bricking an ECU for the few minutes it takes to put on a charger.

What if something goes wrong?
What if you get pulled aside mid flash process?

These trucks seems to have a nice draw with key on.

IMHO, take the few minutes to hook up a charger regardless of battery voltage.

 

I plan to. Was looking for minimum voltage throughout the flash. Was trying to get a feel for a voltage range with the key on only.

 

I was biting nails during my Bully Dog install, aftercooler pump and Phoenix Tesla head unit running with charger attached my volts were dropping. Had to unplug cooler and turn HU screen off to keep a steady 12.8

 

I was biting nails during my first Bully Dog flash, aftercooler pump and Phoenix Tesla head unit running with charger was draing volts with key on. Had to unplug cooler pump and turn HU screen off to get a steady 12.8

Anyone flashing with a Supercharger should have at least a 10 amp charger and or unplug the cooler pump.

 

Driving the truck for awhile before flashing helps the battery be in a more charged state. Having a charger on while flashing is probably the best insurance against a low voltage drop as well. For the SC guys its not only important to turn off all accessories like radio, climate control, etc...But also pull the fuse for your heat exchanger circ pump...big draw there when the key is on.

 

Mine isn't SC, but I don't have any problem running the motor a couple of minutes, then turning off the radio and ac before flashing. I don't use a charger. But I do make sure the battery voltage is where it needs to be. If I was in extreme cold or hadn't run my truck in a while, I would use my charger. It's probably a better idea to use a battery charger, but I haven't had a problem. The OV tune flashes quickly and my voltage doesn't drop below 12.3v, by the end of a flash.

Edit: when I owned a BD tuner, I did use a battery charger. It took longer to flash.

 

I remember my BD flash too...Charger on, everything that could be turned off...off, Holding my breath, crossing my fingers and praying to the tuner gods not to "brick" my ECU while watching that voltage. And like TruckyTruck said..longer...much longer...seemed to take forever at the time.

Edit...Sorry Trucky, misspelled your name Fixed it!

I dont know what it was...but I never felt right about that BD tune...Then, or the next couple of years running it...funky shifting and never trusting the fuel ratio's in the upper RPM range, etc....That canned tune from Mag/BD had a not so good reputation...some had good luck with it and others seemed to have issues. It was a glorious day back in May of this year when I uninstalled it and flashed my base OVTune. And after many logging sessions and revision's the tune and the truck continue to improve and build my confidence.

 

I'm hoping for a Cinderella story also!

 

Is anyone running these (http://dirtydeedsindustries.com/product/spoolin-shift-kits-for-07-present-tundra-and-sequoia-5-7l) with direct shift?

If so what's your experience with them?

 

My understanding is that Direct Shift is still technically in testing; I can't recall reading in this thread of anyone admitting to be running a spooling shift kit.

 

will this tune void warranty? not sure if it was mention before... and can it be tune back to stock if it does void warranty?

 

A stock tune can be reflashed if there's a concern/worry.

 

Thank you!

 

I can't recall where, possibly on the tundratalk forum, but the people who installed this kit had hard shifting out of first gear.