Overhaul Efforts

Oh shit, I totally missed that, I was looking for lift stuff. I wonder if Billy sells just the perch? If not, I guess you're buying new front struts.

 

Looks like a $5 replacement part. AWESOME SHIT GUYS. Appreciate you so much! I'll call around to verify they'll work.

 

Would you recommend changing the spring or shocks if it's unknown about replacement or age? I just wonder if replacing the spring seat, the change from lowering to raising would be a concern I'd have to address anyway.

Update: I'm just going to replace the front as well. It'll give me something positive to do and I'm replacing the rear anyway.

 

Got everything prepped for the last components of the suspension: sway bar links, leaf springs (longer u-bolts) and the coilovers. I found someone locally who's selling OEM spring seats, but we'll see what happens with that. I'm planning on getting new bolts for the lower shock mount and need to get a PCV hose, that thing looks like it was sourced from Chernobyl.

For now, the rear will be a bit of a frankenstein system that'll work well. So this thing should be sittin' pretty tomorrow evening and plan on going for a drive to pick up some concrete to test that payload!

 

Alright, I figured out the back glass. I'm going to be ordering the window regulator and motor. The cables on the regulator and at the motor were all frayed and mucked up. So that's my next little project to get this thing working. I think I'm going to edit my first post and log all of these part numbers.

Next is the alignment. Got a tool on the way so I don't have to take it to a shop. Plus, I plan on doing the ball joints (upper and lower) at some point.

 

Alright, suspension and alignment have been completed. Alignment was done by myself to the following specs:

Camber: +0.2 for now, needs to be adjusted slightly for +0.12, I believe
Caster: As much as possible, but I have tons, like +4°+
Toe: Driving at about 1/16”, toe in for both

Drives smooth and straight. However, from a stop, I noticed a vibration in 2nd gear at about 15mph. RPM doesn’t matter, from what I can tell, as it happens from a start, or while rolling. I’ve tried to find the transmission brace TSB, but am having trouble locating that document. Wanted to check it. Everything looks good underneath, and is torqued to spec.

Something else I was considering, if a vehicle was lowered for an unknown period of time, would that cause issues when it’s brought back to ride height? Not thinking so, because the vibration conditions are very specific:
At 15-20MPH I can feel a vibration, from what seems to be the front end. It disappears at 20 and is slightly worse if the RPMs are higher. Significantly less vibration at lower RPMs. No steering wheel shake, just front end vibration. Thinking about taking it in to an alignment shop to get it dialed in, as my alignment was “good enough” but not dialed in.

I will be getting all new wheel studs and lug nuts here within the next week or two. I don’t drive it very much nor far, so it’s not a huge concern at the moment.

 

TSB is in the sticky new-owners thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Search the 1st page for "clunks" and it'll be the 3rd or 4th result.

I recently developed the same vibration you're describing when I switched up from 275/70r17 to 285/70r17. It's there from 10-20mph and I feel it in the floorboard/pedals. It WAS NOT there prior. I think it's the Wildpeak AT3W tires for me. It's annoying enough that I'm ditching the Wildpeaks and moving back to my 275 Baja Legend EXPs.

 

Thanks bunches!

 

Just checked the transmission mount and support member, all looks good. HOWEVER, my center bearing boot or rubber portion has popped out and looks a bit torn. Also, significant (like 0.5” of play) all around. This is going to be my next top priority.

Is it drivable in this condition? I know it’s not good, but how not good is it? Appreciate it!

 

¼"-½" of play in carrier is normal. Mine has about 3/8" play in either direction and my truck has less than 80k miles on it.

That said, torn/mangled donut-shaped boot on carrier is not normal. You should replace. Go Spicer. Mark driveshaft positions before removal so you can clock the driveshafts properly on reassembly. Make sure you don't install the bearing backwards.

 

Appreciate you @shifty` !

 

What tool did you get?

 

It's called QuickTrick DIY. Just a bunch of aluminum bars and some gauges I wanted to try out because I thought it was interesting. Wasn't too bad to do. I'm thinking I'm going to take it to an alignment and see how close I got it. If it's pretty far off, I'm going to return. An alright system, just pretty spendy for the money. I work on all different types of cars, so I figure it'll pay for itself eventually.

 

Center Support Bearing and 3 U-Joints are on the way from Summit. I got the Spicer bearing and Moog 354 (greasable) u-joints. Should get here around the end of the month, so I'll spend the day getting that bearing and joints out when they show up. Hopefully this fixes the issue. I did haul some brick and concrete yesterday and she had some vibrations so I'm going to have an alignment shop check my work as well, because if @shifty` is correct, the bearing and u-joints may not be the issue since it sounds like some play is normal.

 

Don't get me wrong though, if you had more vibration when the truck had a load in the back - i.e. carrying a load WILL alter your driveline angle and how the driveshafts interface with the carriet bearing - that is a good sign it will be the carrier, or it may be a u-joint. Doubt it's tires, but ... just tossing out what I've been going thru with my Wildpeaks. That said, it could be really interesting, if you don't mind the extra work, to swap out the carrier, and go drive around to see if the issue is subsided. If it is, you can always return the u-joints and stop while you're ahead. If it were me, and I had the parts, I'd probably be tempted to do the u-joints anyhow, and not worry about it for another 10-15 years, but that's just me.

 

My brother is thinking the same thing. I checked tires and there’s no apparent damage or crazy wear, such as tires fighting each other going 80MPH. So, I’ll probably just hook up the bearing and change out the u-joints while I’m in there.

The other thing I was thinking is that the truck was lowered, so I’m thinking the wear while it was lowered, plus the difference in angle after going back to stock might be the vibration issue. I’m thinking the driveshaft was being held tight, but at an angle, causing possible damage to the rubber piece. Then, when I changed out the suspension (axle under springs, rather than over like it was) freed up a bunch of room in that damaged boot.

Once I get it all buttoned up, I’ll report back. Until then, she’s got a little more work to do so I can get my yard completed. I’ll just take it easy on her.

 

Pinion angle would definitely cause problems like this, yes. Especially if your truck had pinion shims/wedges tilting the rear diff housing a specific direction. But if that's the case, and you've been running with this problem for long, there may be other damage at play.

Can you tell which lowering kit they used? Are the shackles/hangers still original OEM, or shortened versions?

 

It was a “poor man’s” lowering kit from what I was told. Basically just some blocks that were welded together holding the axle on top of the springs. The shackles were custom as well, and they were a bit shorter.

I never noticed anything when the truck was lowered, but the springs were absolutely shot. After I brought the suspension back to stock, that’s when I started noticing it. Never checked the carrier bearing before, but since I checked it, after doing the suspension, like I said, it’s got about 1/2” of play and the boot is torn up. So, that was naturally my first thought.

Driveline from back to front:

 

Yeah, I can already tell you, with the way that rear shaft is sitting in relation to the carrier, sagging almost an inch, it looks like the bearing is shot. Even if we ignore the fact huge chunks of that donut are missing.

And funny, I guess I should've realized this by now, but I guess 2WD doesn't have a slip yoke out back. And with how much rust there is I'm seeing at the end of that one cap at the pinion compared to others, I wouldn't doubt if you find it's dry as shit inside.

You're on point, I'm near positive the parts you bought will solve your issue.

 

I’m seeing a donut/spacer type at the back of the driveshaft. Wouldn’t this change the angle of the driveline? Or is that the flex disc? I’m going to check fluids before I take it out again.


I’m willing to do a complete overhaul, because I have the time and money. Should I replace the seal while I’m in there? I’m going to be checking fluids, but no sign of anything bad.

 

It's just a harmonic vibration damper around the flange.

The driveshaft to flange/pinion spline is all directly connected.

 

This may have been said but the 2wd for some reason doesn’t have great able joints. Weird

 

Been driving on the new driveshaft parts and it's working great. I will need to get a new OEM driveshaft eventually as I had to do some "modification" to get everything in. However, new problem:

When stopped I feel an excessive amount of vibration causing a bit of a groan. When letting up on the brakes it goes away, I was thinking possible trans mount or brake issue? Just wondering if there's a smoking gun someone may be aware of I can check out. Trans mount appears good, but I need to get a bar underneath to test it. No cracks or anything in the trans cross member, and I've checked the torque at the brace and the mount.

I do need to tear the wheels off and overhaul the brakes, as they're not quite right. Pedal is stiff, but it takes a while to brake. A bit of sponginess. I took the line from the brake booster off and wasn't getting any vacuum, plus, the fitting for the brake booster line is a bit wobbly. Not sure if this is cause for concern or not, I did load the brakes with the truck off and then turned the truck on. Pedal only goes down about an inch or two.