Noticed a grease line.

Hi all new to the forum thanks in advance for any feedback.
My 2001 Tundra 4.7 4x4 with 81k has been (weeping oil) not leaking from both inboard seals on the transmission drive shafts. The boots are not leaking. Just wondering if this is leading up to more trouble? Or maybe nothing.

Matt4.7

 

Are you talking about CV axles or driveshafts, just want to clarify because phrasing you used is different than what I'm accustomed to. Just want to make sure you're not talking about CV sling. If this is what you're looking at, will need to know if you're lifted or not, and if you are, explicit details about what you used to lift, how high, etc.

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Ok. I'm going to TRY to dissect this. Your title says "Grease Line". Does this mean you're seeing a line of grease that looks like it has been slinging from somewhere? I think you're talking about the CV axle shaft inboard boot clamps are loose and slinging grease. And I think you mean the boots are not cracked. If this is the case, you either need to simply tighten the clamps, or remove them and get an aftermarket boot clamp kit. Clean the mess up, put in some CV joint grease and redo the clamps. Very confusing post, but I think this is the state of your problem. If you do nothing, eventually the joint will dry up and you'll be replacing the whole CV axle.

 

Sorry for the confusion. Yes the front output shafts have a grease line right where the drive shafts go into the case.

 

Like what I've pictured above?

If yes, are you lifted?

 

My dad and I call this rustproofing.

 

Goopy grease or wet oil? Pics would help.

Sounds like you need front diff seals.

 

Yes the pic says it all. After reviewing all the replies I’m pretty sure it’s the large boot clamp. Thanks for sharing all your thoughts. It has helped.

 

I can recommend a specific worm clamp to replace the existing clamps that'll work, if you're still running the bulletproof OEM axles. That type of slinging is typical after lifting the truck any amount. Not saying that's what you did, but it's what just about everyone on this forum went thru after lifting the front of the truck more than half an inch.

The OEM Oetiker clamps can be a real bitch to get properly tight, to the point they won't leak. And you can't just use any old worm drive clamp to shore up the boot tighter, you need something that's the right width and has rolled edges.

Anyway, if you need more advice, holler. That's what we're here for. And if you're new to your Tundra, we've worked together to jot down this thread, which may help you with other stuff you've got going on, advice on critical maintenance, recalls/TSBs, upgrades, etc.

 

Thanks shifty!
My tundra is bone stock. I bought it new and have never abused it in any way. I’m now 66 yo and don’t plan on getting another truck.
I’ve had many new trucks and have less problems with it this one. Love the ride too!

 

I use it to pull my 12x6 trailer it gets 10.5 with overdrive off.

 

I had the same issue on mine and inspected the boots. Didn’t see any holes/tears so I ended up cutting off the old clamps, cleaning out the cv joint, squeezed in some new grease and installed a new clamp.

 

@shifty` could he use 70-90x9mm rolled edge smooth inner wall clamps? Here's the full set I got of inners and outers for my 03. Found Capp Hardware has Norma Toro w2 stainless and also Carlyn w4 stainless rolled edge smooth inner clamps online for great price (so you don't cheese-grate thr boots clamping them down). Super helpful on the phone and fast order processing.

Norma Torro Hose Clamps, 24-40mm x 9MM wide, W2

Norma Torro Hose Clamps, 70-90mm x 9MM wide, W2

Norma Torro Hose Clamps, 90-110mm x 9MM wide, W2

Carlyn Performance German Style Hose Clamps, 25-40mm x 9mm wide, W4 Stainless

Carlyn Performance German Style Hose Clamps, 70-90 mm x 9mm wide, W4 Stainless

Carlyn Performance German Style Hose Clamps, 90-110mm x 9mm wide, W4 stainless

Wonder though if not lifted then if boot is cracked and slinging so needs a reboot?

 

Exactly, thanks for pulling the numbers, he’d just need to inspect the clamps where the sling is happening to see what measurement is stamped into the clamp so he knows which clamp measurements to buy. And I dunno, he said the boots weren’t split, so we must assume it’s a clamp failure issue.

What you posted is ultimately what I ordered, but I was coming up empty on finding the measurements I posted in the Lunch Table or WYDToday threads. NORMA 01266704080-000-0543, 70 mm-90 mm x 9 mm W4 for the larger clamp. I bought a 10-20pk or something of those 70-90mm since that seems to be the specific clamp that slings after lifting. I’ve been sending them around to other members who need them after lift. @FrenchToasty was the first to suggest the Norma/Toro clamps, they’ve worked pretty well for anyone that’s used em. Still got one or two pairs.

@Matt4.7 just don’t swap out your axles for aftermarket, there’s not much out there more-stout than the OEM. Likewise with the boots, I think members here have used almost every parts-store-brand boot imaginable and they all seem to crack within a couple of years or less.

 

Be careful not to do this under too much load, the pre 02 or 03 trucks are known to have weak overdrive gearing.

 

Many thanks for all the effort to help with this issue. I just haven’t seen clamp failures like this. The plan is to reboot both drive shafts and install new lower ball joints. I figure that any maintenance like this would be better than a new truck payment any day.
I really hate pulling my trailer without the overdrive however 3k rpms around 70 puts that little 4.7 right in the sweet spot for horsepower and torque.

 

I'm sure you may already know this, but only use OEM LBJ. Do not go aftermarket. I can link the thread full of pictures of folks who didn't heed this warning if you want. Aftermarket use plastic inserts/bushings and aren't as beefy as OEM, and ultimately do fail. Many times catastrophically.

New bolts are always a plus also. 4 per side.

 

So your boots are split and need replaced not just clamped?

This might help the upcoming job.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-1916#post-3451375

Check fitment for your axle but likely is this part # for the clip on end of axle many forget or reuse but FSM says to replace:

Drive Shaft Snap Ring
4342504020
MSRP $2.99
Sale: $2.11

Can watch for Serra Toyota 20% off sale on their already discounted online prices if you don't need to swap the LBJs in a hurry for about about 60% off retail and free shipping over $75.

 

There’s also no law that says you have to tow a trailer at 70mph. 60mph in Drive will keep your rpm down and your mpg up a smidge.

I had a grease line coming off of my tundra. Turned out there was an after market ring clamp over the boot. I was hoping to find the correct sized Oetiker clamp in a multi pack kit (rather than through toyota), but i couldn’t find the correct size. In the meantime i used a high quality plastic panduit strap that has a metal locking tooth (think zip tie). And that was about a year ago. Zero seeps or leaks. I still want to find the correct size Oetiker though.

 

Have heard about some having success with industrial zip ties like that. Think the size you need is one of these depending on your year but looks like that supplier may not have Oetiker style in the thin width.

https://www.tundras.com/posts/3451375