New UCA Needed?

So I purchased Eibach Pro truck sport struts and lift kit coilovers. I went to install them today and came up a quarter inch short of being able to pop the bolt in to the lower control arm. Do I need new UCA or LCA? It had factory shocks from probably 2001 on it still. Had the tie rod ends, ball joints, and bearings replaced about a year ago. Any help would be great!

 

Not necessarily. Disconnect your sway bar if you haven't already then find a huge pry bar and pry down on the LCA until you can get the lower shock mount in place. Sway bar disconnected will make it easier to pry down. That was the ticket for me the very first time I swapped coilovers.

 

Yeah or just mark the cam bolt locations on the LCA and loosen it to easily move them. Then put them back to where they were and go get an alignment, which you should do regardless.

 

Sorry for the late response, My computer got nuked by condensation -_-

Disconnecting the sway bar gave me enough clearance although still a bit of a fight. Now I just gotta figure out why my steering is creaking so much. Might need to grease the balljoints. Also, I have a full inch difference on ride height between driver side and passenger side, is that normal?

 

Creaks or squeaks?

If any of the bushings in the kit you installed are polyurethane vs. rubber, poly is known to squeak to high hell and back. It's the nature of the beast: They're stiff as shit, they won't blow out as easily as rubber, but they are absolutely noisy as hell due to their rigidity.

A little lube goes a long way on poly bushings. Just make sure it's a lubricant that's safe for poly. I'm not sure of anything that's not necessarily poly-safe, just saying this as a cover-my-own-ass thing...

(EDIT: I personally prefer SuperLube, fwiw. Energy Suspension's Formula 5 is supposed to be awesome)

 

Oh, and since we're talking about it ... if you have a can of silicone lubricant spray - not the silicone you seal aquariums and showers with - if you want a quick test whether or not it's your bushings squeaking, throw the straw on your can of spray and hit the insides of your bushings really well. If those are you problems, the squeaks should stop immediately. Silicone spray won't degrade and leave nasty residues that are tough to clean up later.

 

Cool, I'll try that. The problem existed before replacing the front suspension and it is a lot quieter now but still there. My truck has been neglected the last year due to lack of funds and lack of time, so I'm just now getting around to a whole laundry list of items. The Lower ball joint on my passenger side gave out a year ago after getting the breaks rebuilt over christmas then the tie rod end broke while they had it at the shop so I ended up with more or less a new front end and breaks. After that my shocks went and rode them for another 9 months anyway, when I took them off, one had liquid sloshing around in it and the other was up on jacks overnight and in the morning had leaked most of its fluid out. Things left to do:

Replace radiator (got the denso one here, just need time)
Replace power steering pump reservior and trace out leaks
fix back windows
Alignment (less worried cause I got cheap road tires on the front)

At some point when I've saved up again;
Paint Job
Front and rear bumpers
rims
new front tires


[Edit]: I think creaks, sounds mechanical in nature and like parts are stiff and not moving right. Started about 2 weeks ago when temperatures dropped below 50 and into the 20s for several days

 

Hopefully you had the shop replace with an OEM lower balljoint. Aftermarket tend to fail, sometimes rather quickly. MOOG had a big recall on their lower balljoints not too long ago too. So many pics floating around with front wheels snapped off with the truck cab laying on them b/c folks chose not not to pony up for OEM LBJs.

That's helpful extra info is helpful.

Did you install extended swaybar links with the lift?
Either way, check front swaybar bushings for wear.
Try detaching one end of the swaybar link and see if you still hear the noise.

For any control arms you haven't replaced, check the bushings. And geographically, which quadrant of the USA are you in, NE, SE, SW, NW, central? Just curious if the creaks could be cab mounts, or other rust related fun.

 

I have no idea what they replaced them with but I doubt it was oem, will put that on my list. Yeah, rounded a turn doing 10-15 and the front tire came off, cv axle pulled out, upper and lower ball joints both came off. Luck there wasn't any more damage.

No extended swaybar links, bushings did look old, I think a lot of the stuff on the front end has probably never been changed out. It's an '01 with I think 330k miles on it. I've only had it for the last 100k though. I'll try detaching and testing next time I'm working on it.

I live around Jacksonville Fl, so far SE. Definitely steering related as it only happens when I turn the steering wheel to the right or left.

 

update:
the driver side lower ball joint popped -_-

4 days and 10k miles past warranty

 

@shifty` how hard is it to replace lower ball joints? I dont feel like paying a few hundred dollars for someone else to replace them

 

This is why it's an OEM or nothing kinda part. Get new from Rockauto and replace both.
Edit: not rockauto. Toyota parts website of your choice. Just used to recommending RA lately.

 

Yeah... was hoping it would last another 6 months. Going to replace that and bushings on stuff. Anything else I should replace while I'm in there? New tie rods and ends got installed a year ago. Also, my friend pulled his sway bars off his GMC Canyon, what are yall's thoughts on that for the tundra?

 

Also, Rockauto has several manufacturer options, which is oem?

 

I don't know what I was thinking. OEM lower ball joints will have to come from somewhere else. Like a Toyota dealership website. Let me do some looking.

 

Here is the part number from when I ordered mine from mcgeorge Toyota. The bolt part number listed in the picture work good for single use but they were studied to show they loose some strength if they are used more than once. New bolts are a good idea.

Mcgeorge website Link
Left ball joint Link
Right ball joint Link

 

Looks like Nick's all over it. Don't miss those last couple links after his photo. You can also order direct from Toyota via their Parts website, get a discount if you use the website, AND even even pick it up at a local participating dealership if you prefer, to save any shipping costs. A lot of places will give you free shipping on anything over $75 with the coupon FREESHIP.

Make sure you get replacement bolts also. Don't want to re-use the old ones.

 

Cool. Looks like the price difference between my local dealership and the mcgeorge is less than $15 and I think I'll get it faster through the dealership. Before I order, upper ball joints should be fine to stay or should I replace those too? Also, the sway control link bushings are shot, should I just replace the sway control links on both sides?

On a mildly entertaining note, the toyota website says one of the signs your ball joints are going bad is creaking when you turn the steering wheel at low speeds... which is what I've had for a few weeks now... -_-

 

And question about the sway bar end link, the bushings in the schematics are 48817-0408 type A, the only parts sold online that I can find were for newer model tundras and have D or C in the part number. Are those good to use and just toyota updating and addressing issues with the first gen parts?

 

Uppers should be fine, it's the lower that carries excessive load, and thus is prone to failure unless the LBJ you choose isn't over-engineered like Toyota OEM are.

If you ever plan on lifting or leveling your truck, you may want to go with extended links now, for lifting later.

Suspension MAXX makes both stock length and extended. Stock length here, Extended length here. Don't over-tighten to the point you're totally deforming the bushing.

Use the parts system to drill down and find your intended compatible part. More details here.

If you can't find the part for your specific truck (the system will give you compatibility info if you use your VIN), don't buy it. Never assume later parts will work.

 

Okay, sweet! The part number is totally different from on the sheet, so that thread you gave me was super helpful. The bushings are $4 per so I will probably just get 4 of those and swap them out. The suspension MAXX are only a little more expensive than OEM ($130vs$105) So at some point I may get those. I did level it when I replace the shocks a couple weeks ago, so maybe I should get them now.

Thanks again for all the help!

 

Just going to get the bushings for now and maybe in a year do more with the suspension and sway link.

So I was talking with my dad and he thinks the truck is nearing the end of its life. I've been approaching it more as a "There's a lot of expensive things to fix then it'll be good for another 10-20 years. It has 330,000+ miles on it, spent $1200 completely rebuilding the breaks 13 months ago, new bearings, tie rods, tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints 12 months ago, new front suspension 1 month ago, and now replacing lower ball joints with OEM. AC still runs perfectly, engine itself still sounds like it's only 5 years old. What do y'all think about how much more it has in it? been a florida truck its whole life so none of the northern undercarraige issues. Here is the list of things I still would like/need to do with it:

New Radiator (purchased, need to install)
Power steering fluid leak (need to trace it out)
New front and rear fenders (this is a want, not a need, both are pretty banged up tho)
Paint job and some minor body work (paint is pretty badly needed, just really expensive)
Rear struts/maybe another 1" of lift
Interior cosmetics

I think that's it for my todo list for the truck, is it worth keeping around and spending all that money on?

 

You tell me: https://www.tundras.com/threads/highest-mileage-1st-gen-thread.11039/

It's not uncommon for these trucks to go 400k, 500k, 600k, and so-on. On the original drivetrain. No rebuilds. Just basic maintenance.

It's a safe vehicle. What you've spent on it so far is about on-par with 2-3 monthly car payments. As long as you keep up on maintenance, you're golden.

For the power steering leak, are you physically seeing fluid drip somewhere, or do you just find the reservoir is slowly depleting?
- If seeing leaks, you may be able to add the right amount of ATP's

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 to rejuvenate the gaskets.
- If not seeing leaks, it may be the Power Steering Air Control Valve throwing fluid into the intake, which will cause a puff of smoke at startup.

Make sure you use the correct (red) coolant when swapping the radiator.

Would need to see paint to know what you're dealing with - the non-metallic trucks can be buffed out shiny again. Metallic trucks have clearcoat, which tends to flake; nothing you can do there except selectively re-spray.

There's no such thing as a rear strut, just rear shocks

I think the truck is worth spending the money on. But would really help to see some pics of what you've got, inside and out. And to understand if the frame is clean/rust-free. That's usually what kills these trucks, accidents, rust, and/or lack of basic maintenance. They'll otherwise run damn near forever.

 

Reservoir is cracked, I have a replacement just need to put it in. The mechanics who did all the work on it a year ago said they thought it was leaking elsewhere too, I haven't cleaned up the lines yet to take a look though so it could be either one.

Also messed up on the costs: $1,800 for rebuilt breaks, new bearings, and an alignment. $1,200 for new ball joints, tie rod ends, and tie rods. So $3,000 total. Then about $800 in the last 2 months for front suspension and ball joints

Whats the difference between red and green? Seen/used both, didn't know it mattered.

Attaching photos below of the truck. It has the clearcoat and it is pretty bad on the hood and top of the cab. It needs a lot of love in the cosmetics department. The passenger side wheel well picture has a spot where the tire bent it up some and broke off a significant piece of paint last year when the lower ball joint gave out, looks a lot smaller in the picture though...Want to replace the rims on it too

 

It matters a hell of a lot. And whatever you do you should never, ever, ever mix colors.

The different colors are what they are because they have (or omit) different additives for different purposes. Read the 2nd paragraph starting "red coolant" here for more details on that... Always ask your manufacturer, and don't necessarily go by brand. Like, your OEM may tell you to use one color for an aluminum-block engine vs. another color for a steel-block engine. RTFM! (Read The F'n Manual)

If you currently have yellow/green, when you swap the radiator, drain your coolant, do a Prestone flush or two with hose water before filling up with Zerex Asian Red.

If you want to understand more about coolant and its colors and what they mean, here's a good link.

If you go out and buy a car to finance right now, no trade-in, and kept it at $25k + avg of 4.5% financing, you're looking at ballpark $375-400/mo on the car payment for the next 5 years. That's not including insurance and other stuff. You're in for $5-6k out of pocket the 1st year in payments, and will repeat that for several years. There's no way you'll be putting $6k/year into this truck!

Think about what you're spending on the truck in that light and it may help you understand what's best financially. Repairing is a one-and-done thing, and you've done most of it already. Clearly, it's almost always cheaper to maintain a vehicle than it is to buy another as long as the vehicle won't have major transmission/engine problems, which this truck is notorious for not having.

Add to that cars being expensive as shit right now, even used is selling at a premium, and finance rates are super high as well. I don't see anyone getting sweet 1.9% or less deals on a used car, even my parents having credit scores in the 800s had trouble getting 2% APR on their 2023 Corolla. They got a killer deal, former military discount, nicely below MSRP price and still are paying more than I'd ever want to.

If you were looking for a lifestyle change and directed that money towards something that got 30-40mpg+ city and hwy to be economical, go for it. But if your truck is paid off, a dealership is going to shortchange you on that truck, maybe give you $3k-4k on trade-in (private sale you'd get a couple grand more, tops). I think you'll be throwing money away.

Your frame looks great. You can find a shop to just repaint the roof between the rack provisions, and the hood, if it's really bugging you. Clearcoat usually only fails on the horizontal surfaces from lack of care. Then slap some aftermarket fender flares on to cover the front passenger fender damage. A couple of applications of this stuff over a week or two will bring the color back into the black body trim and bumper trims. Keep your eyes peeled on Craigslist for some 4Runner or Tacoma 6-lug 17" take-off wheels for cheap to replace the stock steelies and you've got a really nice truck that'll last you another 300k miles with limited maintenance...

Oh ... and if that's rust I see on that fender damage, fix it. Bottle of Loctite Naval Jelly. Dab it on with a throwaway brush, covering it completely. Wash away with water after 10-15 mins. Repeat one more time. There should be nothing but bare metal there after. For the time being, it's safe to go over it with semi-matching fingernail polish. Or if you can find a self-etch primer pen or a scratch/chip repair kit (primer + paint pens) at your local auto parts store, use that. Just make sure it's totally dry before you repair (use a blow dryer) and you don't let it sit more than an hour or two after drying or it'll start rusting again.

 

I didn't get 5000 miles out of my moog sway bar links because my truck was leveled and had a pretty extreme angle on the sway bar. I would consider the suspension max extended links. You can buy them now or go cheap now and buy them later anyway.

Unless your truck doesn't have a bad angle on the bar. Seems like some do and some don't.

 

I was thinking about just blacking out all the trim, chrome and black, just havent looked into that yet. And if I have the money now I'll get those sway bar links, need to just check the bank account. Good advice on just painting the worst areas for now. I was going to wait till the end of next year and see where I was at, so I'll definitely consider that.

Started replacing the radiator today, definitely did have a slow leak on one side, but I found what may have been the real leak. Up where the water pump feeds into the engine under the throttle body (Or returns, didn't look to closely) the O ring seems to have blown out or was overtightened. Glad my truck is already up on blocks, gonna get a new one and replace it. Now to start looking at the power steering fluid issue...

 

That was a pain. Really shoulda named this thread "My personal truck problems" but oh well. Power steering reservoir replaced and flushed 2 quarts of dextron 3 through it, will have to keep an eye on the reservoir levels to make certain it isn't leading anywhere else. Absolute pain to get the hoses off the old part though, ended up cutting it off at the base and crack the nozzle inside and pulling it out piece by piece. Got everything back together except for the engine coolant thermostat housing or whatever it's called, need to replace the O-ring cause it got caught and part of it sliced off. Still wating on Ball joints and bolts, gonna add the O-ring to the list of things ordered and waiting on.

As a side note, if I wanted to black out all of the chrome trim, what is the best route to go? I know plastidip is popular, personally I'd like to see if I can use bedliner, but not certain what will/will not stick to the chrome. Y'all have any thoughts or experiences with this?

Also, thanks a lot to @shifty` and @NickB_01TRD and @des2mtn for all the help!

 

No clue on blackout. I personally don't like the look. Smoked looks cool, blackout just looks like your truck is a low-end base model to me. I feel the same way about all-black wheels, when they're shiny, it looks like you've got base-model steel wheels, when flat black, it looks even cheaper.

If it were me and I wanted to go the 'easy way', maybe vinyl wrap is your ticket? Lay it on, carefully cut the edges with an X-acto. Or have someone cut a vinyl decal you could overlay directly onto the badge. There actually may be a market in that, if you wanted to product-ify it. You're not the only one interested...

 

So I can't get the lower ball joints off the tie rod ends. Any tips? Tricks? Also tore the boot on it so should I just replace the ends anyway? I think they are cheap aftermarket like the ball joints were.