New guy with a 2006 SR5

All the metallic paints had issues with clearcoat fail, eventually. This is discussed to a certain extent in the info-dump thread. Green and red had it the worst.

 

I’m really debating a toytec spacer lift with some new 4600 bilsteins. Do the 5100s ride harsher? I don’t really want to lift more than 2” actually 1.5” might be better but I’d like to keep the nice ride this thing has.

 

Another member on the forum had said in the past, the valving and internals are nearly identical on the 4600 and 5100. The major difference is the 5100 allows you to adjust the spring bucket upward using circlips.

That said, I feel like the people I hear bitch most about the ride in 5100s are the ones who use a setup which requires going above the lowest two circlips.

 

I like the larger fender flares on these DCs. Mine has the dainty ones with the chrome strip.

 

I’m pretty shocked at the lack of ability of the “parts” people at my local Toyota dealership. I’m in Ny for work and called to get a quote on lower ball joints. Gave them the year make model and they said they were unable to look up the parts without a vin. Like I have that 17 digit number off the top of my head. Anybody get a quote from their local dealer? I’m going to use OEM parts and can do it myself but it’s going in for a timing belt next week so thought I’d get a quote before I buy a new jack and cordless impact.

 

The Vin sorts all the options in the system for most parts places. Ever gone to a LAPS, given them the year, make, model, drive type and engine config and still gotten the wrong part? Or a list of 3 different possible parts? The VIN narrows it down to what came on your build.

 

If you buy the recall kit, which just comes with two OEM LBJs, not the bolts or other stuff, '04-'06 is supposed to be 04006-62134

You can look up your own part numbers at the EPC-data site using your VIN, instructions in the bullet points here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113808/

Fresh hardware to use, info here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/lower-ball-joints-part-numbers.97100/page-5#post-3262865

Just to reiterate though: I don't think the OEM parts - whether you buy separates L/R or the OEM kit - come with replacement bolts NOR the castle nut. So be aware/prepared. That parts lookup process above, you'll also be able to dig up the castle nut info.

 

I've talked about this before in other threads, but I was able to very successfully spot paint a bunch of areas on my truck where the paint was really bad. I used rattle can paint from a company called Automotive Touchup, and it came out really really good, especially for a rattle can job. I'd be more than happy to provide some more info if you're interested, for less than $125 all in, I couldn't believe the results.

You can see it in my thread here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/2000-limited-trd-refresh-repair-story.116395/page-5

 

that’s awesome thanks! Yea I’m not too worried about a professional job just want it to look a bit better. As long as she’s good mechanically I’m good!

 

Sweet. I'm sure you've read some of the sticky threads but something that doesn't get mentioned enough is how much of a difference a solid tune up can make. Of course, stuff like timing belt and LBJs should come first, but doing a bunch of quick, cheap, and easy things has completely transformed the way my engine runs. While it seems like your truck has been maintained very well, stuff like a throttle body cleanout and spraying the MAF sensor with cleaner, as well as other things, has made a difference in nearly 5mpg for me. A lot of dealers or shops won't include these things with the normal maintenance like fluids and filters, and it's made a hell of a difference on my truck.

Just thought I'd mention.

 

It’s recently had oil change but I’ll probably do one soon with an air filter and it most likely needs plugs. I’ll check those sensors too thanks for the heads up.

trying to convince my wife that a few $100 odds and ends here are a lot cheaper than me taking a loan out on a newer truck, plus I get bored and like to mess with things so it keeps me occupied.

 

Yeah, all you need to do is take one look at the cost of a new truck and rates on loans ... it should be more than plenty to justify keeping a car that's known to easily make it to 500k+ miles w/basic maintenance.

 

Got the timing belt done today. Had Toyota do it because it gives me peace of mind at least. They did all belts a few idler and tensioners and the water pump. Cost me $2k but it runs like a sewing machine and I can sleep good tonight knowing at least that’s done

 

Going back to the legendary status thread. I went to register the truck today. Unfortunately we didn’t get a notarized bill of sale and they had to charge me tax on the low retail of the truck and it was $9,000. A 2006 2wd truck with 160k miles and 9k for low retail I was hoping the would have said like 5-6

 

New shoes today. Looks so much better with a little bigger tire and rides much better too. I was going to get some method wheels but I actually like the stockers

 

Looks great. Those are some of the better looking factory wheels. I hope the machined finish makes a comeback.

 

My DC had 4600's with spacers and it was terrible. I got rid of the spacer lift and it rode soo much better.

 

honestly with the lift the tires gave the truck it sits perfect for what I wanted I’m going to be hauling dirtbikes 1-2hrs away at a time so I didn’t want a lift with 285’s these are great. May do 4600’s next spring to refresh the suspension with new OEM LBJ’s but for now I’m really happy

 

Mine came with the castle nut, just not the replacement bolts.

Part numbers 43330-39825 / 43340-39595.

$188.58 each.

 

Thanks man. Mine were replaced under recall in 07 but probably due soon again

 

The exact same with mine. They were replaced in 07 but it's better to be safe than sorry. It's a much cheaper cost than replacing everything else after it snaps going down the highway.

 

The looking up parts without the vin is honest. The systems they use in parts requires you to input the vin before you can pull up any part numbers/prices. We have a similar issue on my side in collision.

 

Any body-shop guys in here? Looking for some pointers on how to deal with this scrap down the side. It is indented a bit. Local shops have a lead time of about 3mos+ so I’d like to atleast out some touch up paint there to keep it from rusting.

 

Had a good rain yesterday and the new wider tires threw a bunch of water up and washed the fluid film off the frame. I wish it would have stuck better