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New brakes

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Spread5150, Nov 18, 2022.

  1. Jan 15, 2023 at 10:40 AM
    #31
    salguod

    salguod New Member

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    For the rears, make sure your parking brake is functional. That's how you adjust them. Without it, you won't get it right and it won't stop worth a darn. Check the bell cranks, a frozen one will lock up a rear wheel. I think there's only one company making the bell crank kits and mine came with one with metric threads and one with with English, so check the threads before mounting new bell cranks.

    Most of my rear brake adventure is here, but I don't think I ever posted the bell crank replacement. My truck finally stops pretty well.
    https://www.tundras.com/threads/brake-issue.87553/#post-2265127
     
    Aerindel and shifty` like this.
  2. Jan 20, 2023 at 8:47 AM
    #32
    Spread5150

    Spread5150 [OP] New Member

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    Well I got everything on. I cannot tell if the brake caliper is rubbing on the rim.

    should I be having issues with these 16 wheels and the newer calipers
     
  3. Jan 20, 2023 at 10:32 AM
    #33
    shifty`

    shifty` I might be an adult, I'm a minor at heart

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    Potentially depends on the wheels. I've definitely seen some folks say they couldn't use larger calipers with the OEM 16s.
     
  4. Jan 20, 2023 at 12:40 PM
    #34
    Spread5150

    Spread5150 [OP] New Member

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    Well I had them checked today. No rubbing but they are getting freakin hot. Smells like burning brakes pretty bad.

    Another issue I am having is I will be driving along. All seems fine, then out of no where I will hear a soft “click” which sounds like it’s between the pedal and brake master.

    I just put new brake cylinders, new calipers and so on. (Thinking before I had stuck calipers)

    Well when it clicks it’s like something let’s go and the truck really moves. Almost like it got a burst.

    still does it. So same problem
     
  5. Jan 20, 2023 at 2:33 PM
    #35
    shifty`

    shifty` I might be an adult, I'm a minor at heart

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    Can you tell if it feels like it's coming from the fronts or the rears?
     
  6. Jan 20, 2023 at 2:44 PM
    #36
    Spread5150

    Spread5150 [OP] New Member

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    The click def comes from around the drivers foot/dash

    the smell is from front.
     
  7. Jan 20, 2023 at 3:12 PM
    #37
    des2mtn

    des2mtn Ridgeline with a 4-speed

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    Blocked out headlights
    Sticking piston/ spring in the master cylinder?
     
    Spread5150[OP] likes this.
  8. Jan 20, 2023 at 4:20 PM
    #38
    Spread5150

    Spread5150 [OP] New Member

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    Something def ticks near the dash that lets it go and sends me off.

    I originally thought it was the calipers as I stated. But guess not.
     
  9. Jan 20, 2023 at 5:24 PM
    #39
    Spread5150

    Spread5150 [OP] New Member

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    This is not likely the brake booster correct ?
     
  10. Jan 20, 2023 at 7:28 PM
    #40
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    Pedal not coming up all the way?
     
  11. Jan 20, 2023 at 8:11 PM
    #41
    Spread5150

    Spread5150 [OP] New Member

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    Def give on the way down but I wouldn’t say the brakes don’t activate. But they maybe done disengage when released. The rotors a scolding hot after a short 40mph drive and I can smell burning. (Front)
    Also when the “click” happens it feels like it finally lets go.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2023
  12. Jan 21, 2023 at 3:41 AM
    #42
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    Both front brakes hot? or just one side?
     
  13. Jan 21, 2023 at 5:45 AM
    #43
    Spread5150

    Spread5150 [OP] New Member

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    I would say both but the driver side seems worse
     
  14. Jan 21, 2023 at 2:38 PM
    #44
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    Well, sticking calipers are pretty common problem (on vehicles in general) but for both to stick at the same time.....I'm thinking its a master cylinder issue.
     
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  15. Jan 21, 2023 at 2:44 PM
    #45
    shifty`

    shifty` I might be an adult, I'm a minor at heart

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    This was my thought also but it's very interesting it happened right after upgrading to larger calipers, calipers which (were apparently not needing machining, my mistake thinking it was)

    Clicking under the dash is an interesting symptom. There's only a couple of things brake related under the dash, aside from possible controller. One is the toggle for the lights, other is the shift lock. However, if OP's steering shaft seal is gone, he may be hearing nose from booster or MC via the firewall/column hole.

    I don't recall which MC OP has, but if fluid levels are going down, it could be that condition where the MC throws fluid into the booster.

    If I were OP, I'd be checking all the brake lines to make sure nothing is twisted in a way that allows it to collapse, which would create vacuum, and cause the calipers to seize. There's a key piece of info here: Caliper getting hot, truck feels like it's being held back, truck suddenly releases. All point to calipers not releasing.

    Time to check all lines, I'd also bleed/flush again, both the brakes, and the prop valve out back once again.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2023
    txagg likes this.
  16. Jan 21, 2023 at 2:46 PM
    #46
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    I missed that part...

    I know from other vehicles, if the caliper isn't perfectly parallel with the rotor, they will overheat.

    But of course, that would be constant. The 'releasing' thing sounds like a check valve sticking in the MC.
     
    shifty`[QUOTED] likes this.
  17. Jan 21, 2023 at 3:09 PM
    #47
    shifty`

    shifty` I might be an adult, I'm a minor at heart

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    I agree. But I'd also say, the results FGV was seeing with his because he went to a machine shop with no experience with this mod were equally vague. "Mushy brakes". I swear we must've collectively given him about three dozen things to try, to replace, to tweak, and nothing helped. Until he threw the old calipers back on.

    So maybe that's the next step for OP. Throwing the old calipers on and seeing if it continues. (EDIT: I got confused; I'm comparing apples to oranges equating this case with FGV's caliper debacle)

    I'd also try applying and releasing the e-brake several times to re-adjust the rears before swapping to the old calipers again.

    However, I do agree with you @Aerindel, with these new larger calipers, there's possibility something could've happened at the MC to cause this, and that's definitely one.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2023
  18. Jan 21, 2023 at 3:16 PM
    #48
    Spread5150

    Spread5150 [OP] New Member

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    So this issue was happening prior to the brake upgrade. In fact I believed I needed new calipers because I figured they were sticking due to age (they needed doing anyways). I expected it would fix the issue and the releasing “click” I was hearing was when the calipers were letting go. (Not that the click was coming from the calipers. Just that the release was causing something up the line to make the click).

    Ok well I was wrong.

    My pedal has slack for the first third of travel.
     
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  19. Jan 21, 2023 at 3:18 PM
    #49
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    The first test I would do is remove a caliper, (leaving the brake line attached) apply the brakes, lightly to push the cylinders out and then try and manually force them back in with a C clamp and see what happens.
     
  20. Jan 21, 2023 at 3:24 PM
    #50
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol ABS light OG

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    You went with 13WL calipers right? Have you adjusted your rear brakes yet? That can cause a mushy pedal.
     
  21. Jan 21, 2023 at 3:25 PM
    #51
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    Okay, this sounds like a classic MC issue. The piston in the MC closes off the brake circuit in the first little bit of travel, so that then pressure can be applied. If the the piston does not fully return, the brakes cannot release all the pressure back into the master. This leaves you with a slack pedal because the piston isn't actually pressing back against the pedal, since its stuck somewhere in the MC.

    You can confirm this with the above experiment I mentioned. Force the caliper pistons back in while connected, if you can get them all the way back in, feel the brake pedal, I am willing to bet that if they go all the way back into the caliper, your brake pedal will no longer have the slack in it, as you will have forced the MC piston to 'unstick'. You may even feel that click, etc while you do it.

    Don't push on the brake pedal too hard with the calipers off the rotor or you can eject the caliper pistons all the way from their cylinders.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2023
  22. Jan 21, 2023 at 3:27 PM
    #52
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    Mushy, yes, slack no.
    Even badly adjusted rear brakes, at least have fairly stiff return springs pushing the shoes back in, which you will feel in the brake pedal as mushy resistance. If it's truly slack, it's a different issue.
     
    FirstGenVol[QUOTED] likes this.
  23. Jan 21, 2023 at 4:12 PM
    #53
    Spread5150

    Spread5150 [OP] New Member

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    I did go with the WLS. The WEs had the same issue.
     
  24. Jan 21, 2023 at 5:49 PM
    #54
    shifty`

    shifty` I might be an adult, I'm a minor at heart

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    My bad y'all, I owe a huge apology here. One of our other friends here on the forum made me realize I was mistaking @Spread5150 for another member who opted to go with an option requiring machining. I dunno why I had it stuck in my head that's what was going on here, but ... I was totally wrong. Sorry about that.

    I still think @Aerindel is totally on point with his diagnostic here, though.
     
  25. Jan 21, 2023 at 7:56 PM
    #55
    Spread5150

    Spread5150 [OP] New Member

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    Hey man ! Mistakes and misunderstandings happen. I’m greatful for any input.

    So seeing a Toyota master cylinder is 200 plus dollars. Anyone know the Aisin number for this piece … I’m not seeing one.
     
  26. Jan 21, 2023 at 8:09 PM
    #56
    shifty`

    shifty` I might be an adult, I'm a minor at heart

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    There are at least 4-5 brake MC/booster configurations on these trucks. I'm looking back thru this thread and I'm not seeing any pics of yours. Can you show us how your MC/booster combo looks?

    If your MC is only $200, be grateful. Some of the less-lucky guys on here are staring at $1,200+ to replace theirs. If I have a pic of it, I can get the OEM p/n and run down the Denso or Aisin replacement for you.
     
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  27. Jan 21, 2023 at 8:32 PM
    #57
    Spread5150

    Spread5150 [OP] New Member

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    Best photos I have right now …
    If it helps. ac 4x4 2000 sr5 v8 auto

    When I go to Toyota parts deal and put in my vin I get part 47201-0C010.

    When I put that in on rock auto I get a similar part in the photos but not a Aisin option.







    1D2C57C0-2423-4AD3-8104-52442585ECD7.jpg
    0E608371-CB07-4EDD-A6EF-A3EEBBD41986.jpg
    8E0EDFCD-B5E7-4898-88C5-5EA929065D9F.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2023
  28. Jan 21, 2023 at 10:26 PM
    #58
    Spread5150

    Spread5150 [OP] New Member

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    Actually it’s looking like 47201-0C012 a discontinued part
     
  29. Jan 21, 2023 at 11:44 PM
    #59
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    Did you replace the brake soft lines when you had the calipers done? It looks like in an above post that you did but just making sure.
     
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  30. Jan 22, 2023 at 6:31 AM
    #60
    Spread5150

    Spread5150 [OP] New Member

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    yes … sure did
     

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