Need help yanking

4.6 v8 here...no good?

How much chain fatness do I need? Folk here say 4,000lb capacity won't work.

 

Is that breaking strength, or SWLL (safe working load limit)? I’m imagining 5/16” grade 30 chain here, which even though it’s rated for less, is probably a better choice than a hardened grade 70 chain as the links are less brittle.

Lets just say I have pulled a lot of trees from the ground, most were in my youth with a 1973 F250 4x4 we had on the property. We had 1/2” chain attached to the rear of the frame on each side, down to a hefty hook. Multiple wraps of 3/8”chain around the trunk, back into the tree with the bumper to start loosening it up, and away we’d go with my “driving lesson”.

A pine tree anything over 4” diameter would take multiple 3-4’ runs with that old tank, hard enough that bracing against the steering wheel was needed, as lap belts don’t keep your rib cage out of the steering wheel very well. In hindsight, being older and wiser now, I’m certainly glad we never broke a chain and died doing that.

Deciduous trees tend to be harder to pull than conifers too, due to their root structure. So when I look at your stump pictures and estimate the butt diameter to be 8-9 inches, I still think a stump grinder is the right choice. The rental shouldn’t be much, if any, more than the cost if chain and hooks.

 

@landphil , thank you and you were spot on about tree butt diameter! It was a dogwood tree that would bloom in spring before all other trees wake up.

Anyways, I didn't take a photo of the chain(should have), but I did find it on the website, I think. Although I don't remember it having hooks since I was also picking them along with links on the shelf.



Reason for this idea vs renting equipment, I live among trees. Tiny house and trees everywhere. Multi-use was my preference, hence the purchase. I like to diy stuff around the house, because I can(sorta..)

If I could rig something up that would be strong(safe) enough, it would be most preferable. If I'm being dumb and trying to kill myself or the pickup, then an honest and frank opinion is welcomed.

There's no one around who I can get an educated opinion from, so I'm asking it here.

Ps- I didn't want the chemical stump remover because I was hoping to get the stump out and plant something else in the spring, without having soil contaminated.

Thank you, gang.

 

sorry the 2nd and 3rd gens might not have enough weivo's to handle what you can throw at a real truck. Pretty sure the payload police & transmission temps are gonna throw a tantrum. Find a buddy with an early taco. They'll do it for you.

 

Try this.

https://youtube.com/shorts/ommB6mdHvxA?si=QYjR1OctlJ7kB3ym

 

Your traction will run out long before that chain will, especially being 2-wheel drive.

For reference, I picked a fight with a t-post a few weekends back. I was in 4-low with aired-down 37s for the maximum traction that I could produce and I was just spinning tires. I then switched methods and tried to winch it. I sat in the cab on the brakes and it drug my truck with all 4 tires locked up. Then I pulled the old wheel trick like the video @GODZILLA posted and the t-post finally gave up. I had probably the exact chain that you posted hooked the post the entire time.

The 'Safe working load limit' on chain typically has a safety factor of 3 or 4 as well so the breaking strength is somewhere north of 10,000 lbs. You CANNOT produce this with your truck UNLESS you get a running start, which you have stated many times that you aren't planning on... So you will be fine.

 

"need help yanking"

 

Thank you, gang!

One other thing, it looks like Amazon has a myriad of chains in the 3/8" sizes with price equivalent to smaller 5/16" from lowes. I could step up in strength for the same price. Are they reliable products? Heres an example:



Sorry I was looking at the wrong area, its $76. Is that overkill, given that I'll never be able to create that much pulling strength over grass?

 

In the future, cut the tree off higher leaving a tall stump, like 3-4’ tall. Pull on the stump from the upper end to create leverage. This will help pop those stubborn tap roots you can’t reach. Digging out and cutting any roots you can easily reach is also helpful.

 

Just go get a small grinder at the rental store grind it and be done. You could have been done days ago.

 

Original plan was to just cut tree off and let the stump rot away, but after seeing how empty it looks, I decided a new tree needs to go into its place.

A screw-up on my part for sure.

Grammatical error

 

Yanking and now "stump petting". We've transcended the bounds of tasteful discourse, methinks.













Moar, plz.

 

Before removing any trees with a pulling method, slowly soak the soil around the tree to be pulled with water for a few days. Then if there is any significantly larger tree not to far away, attach a pulley block to that tree at sufficient height to form a 30-45 degree upward pulling angle. Run pulling line and pull slowly while chopping roots with an axe as the pull occurs.

 

You can always drill/grind out a hole in the center and have a fire for a few days…

we have done that in that past at my Dad’s property. Let it burn for a weekend got it pretty much where he wanted it. LOL

 

Thank you, gang. I'll let her rot for now because not many trees available as we go I to winter.

Fire?!! NO FIRE!! stump is in close proximity to house and roots go underneath. I don't need to burn my house down 3 days later when root fire reaches my crawlspace.

 

You would have zero problem using a tow strap wrapped around the stump and gently rocking it out. I did the same to a blue spruce we had that was ugly and dying. You will hear a lot of cracking and popping of the roots. Be gentle and it will uproot. I would dig around the roots as much as possible and wrap around the base.

You said it was a dogwood, which have shallow root systems. We are not talking about an oak tree here folks....

 

Don't buy a Chinese chain. They are frequently labeled for ratings way above what the cheap chain can actually handle. When I went through the rigging class for crane work they specifically cautioned chaiChina. Shackles/clevices that were made in china.

 

Thank you. Much appreciated. I will stick to lowes or home depot parts. No reason in taking unnecessary risks for a few dollars saved.

 

Ugh... I can contain myself no longer.

Purchase 200# of tannerite and await further instruction.

 

Overkill is highly underrated.

 

@hagrid , I will most likely need to live in a shed after such an ordeal

 

Shed life can be quite rewarding. I now point you towards my good friend Bubbles of Sunnyvale trailer park, overseen by Jim Lahey, Trailer Park Supervisor, winner of the National Association of Trailer Parks, Trailer Park Supervisors and Assistant Trailer Park Supervisors Award.

 

Get a bag of self lighting briquettes and stack them on the stump and set on fire.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ISgFgxmxMc

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycNGi4LC2Mg

 

Or your room and board will suddenly and forcibly be provided for you.

 

Thank you, gang. This thread has run its course and we have squeezed maximum good advice.