My Stereo Install, Tech 12 Volts Hertz Kit

Sorry, not comfortable sending it until I ask James if he doesn't mind. The re-write is a work in progress as I'm testing it as walk through it. His old one had all the information, just wasn't organized. If he says good to go, I'll send it your way.

The best way to prepare is watch a bunch of youtube stuff. Plenty of stuff how to remove panels and stuff. My other favorite was Five Star Car Stereo, they don't specifically do Tundra's, but they walk through professional installs, wire management, tools and ideas on how to that made planning and execution easier. I haven't done this type of work since the 70's when you would tear a home speaker apart to get a sub... Certainly complexity and advancement has made it so us weekend hacks can get it done. The kit has everything to install the system and you can go crazy if you want to finish it off professionally.

 

A couple of left over pics. Front door wiring and almost ready to button it up after the last of the tweeter wire is handled. Tesa tape and zip ties finish it up nicely. Best thing in the kit, no existing harness adapters have been cut including the sub which I cut off the back from the factory sub to connect with new one (not sure this would work with a dual sub enclosure).

 

Compiled from various sources.

 

No worries at all, I totally understand that. I was asking for the instructions that he sends out for the package we bought. I found some of the other package instruction he does that he put on the forum for other packages but not the one we bought.

I appreciate all the info, tip and pictures. It's helping greatly. I'm so excited to get this started before it gets too cold here.

 

Love this digram too, this seems to be hot topic about whether to wire the dash speakers into the new amp.

 

I'm sure and I'm also glad it is option with the new AMP. The wires are available in the new T03 harness, so it can be done easily. I'm sticking to the base design out the door, but having the option to change easily later is great.
There is also an option (wire) for the center dash, but defeats the concept of stereo

 

So yesterday had a chance to finish the install out with the AMP. Took a little longer than anticipated but that was me taking my time at each step to make it look as good as I could with the tools I own. Having purchased this kit from James without hearing it, I can conlude you would be hard pressed to figure out what to put together that would sound better. The audison prima (amp/speakers) setup that listened to at a local install shop was hundreds more and this Hertz kit could rival it easily. So a few more photo's from yesterday. The sequence is mostly getting wires ready, working under the seat to wires in place and then finishing the AMP wiring. It was roughly 8 hours of effort by myself with probably the hardest part pulling the wire through the passenger side. My hint there is to put your fish wire through from the engine and then connect the wire inside to pull back. Just no room to try and do it inside with all the harnesses in that area.

 

DSR1 is a beast for such a small package. Not sure what voodoo they put in that little thing but it is magic. A big shout out to James @tech12volts for flashing it in advance. Everything worked perfectly when I fired it up. All controls on the head unit, including all voice controls for navigation and apple car play. Was a little apprehensive based on some information on here that those things would stop working once the dash speakers were disabled (really just not integrated, but can be). I did fire up perfect tune, but didn't play too much with, need to learn more before I muck with it, if I have too. As a stated earlier, I'm going to listen to it as it came configured for a while. So far no indication I need to change anything. Also I did not install the bass knob, that 12in JBL sub has some serious lows and kick, super shocked when I first fired up the system, wasn't expecting that. Besides the tone and fader controls still work in the head unit and you can actually here it change now...lol

After some time listening to the system and letting it break in a little, I may come back with more insights, so be safe everyone.

 

Looks great and I think you have knack. Looks very professional. If only mine will turn out that nice.

 

Your install looks great.
What 12" sub did you end up with and how many watts are you pushing to it?

As others stated, I'd strongly suggest installing the bass knob.
Better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.
I literally change mine almost every song.

There are a couple threads on where members have mounted theirs.
I think just in front of the console is the best place.
It is kinda hidden while driving and right at your fingertips, you don't have to look down and/or reach for it.

 

Thanks, it takes a little more time and patience to figure out where and how to route harness wires. Its kind of like put it together, take it apart a few times. At the end still wasn't a 100% happy with it. Most likely I will build something more to my liking so the the DSR1 can be off the floor and allow more space under it for the harness/wires. It will also allow me to zip tie some of the harness/wires for even a cleaner look. Probably a next summer thing as weather is changing and just want to enjoy the new sound for a while.

 

The sub was the JBL club 1200 with internal ported enclosure. Was very surprised it got into the 30+ hz range with rapid recovery \response. Was shocked for a shallow sub. With the sub set at 2ohms, the JBL AMP would be pushing towards the 500 watt spectrum, but not tested yet.
I get why folks would want to have it, but I want to spend some time with the system "as is" for now and play with PerfectTune before going down that rabbit hole. The short time I've had with the system so far doesn't indicate it's necessary yet, but time will tell.
Yeah, been watching that bass knob thread, some very creative ideas which is awesome for sure.

 

Have you used Waze with your apple car play? I can't get my Android Auto to respond like it should, with being able to hear turn by turn through google maps or waze. I also purchased a system Package thru James and it is awesome. He is a Class Act in my book, very helpful. I highly recommend him for any car/truck stereo upgrade.

 

I've had no issues with Waze using the stock JBL HU or my new

$1,499 Kenwood DMX1037S 10.1" High Definition Car Stereo Receiver with Capacitive Touch Panel

Kenwood DMX1037S - stock GPS antenna.

 

I only tested the stock functions and siri, so I haven't tested google or apple maps or waze. Honestly I've been pretty happy with the stock cloud based navigation, takes a little time to load when establishing a route but has some really good features in it I didn't expect. Will probably test out some other phone features this week, but voice was coming through the new speakers fine during the initial test of the setup. I'll let you know what I find with other apple car play features.

 

Yeah, Mine just doen't work with the JBL HU. Can't seem to figure it out. I think it may be the DSR1. I get music from other apps just no sound from waze or maps

 

Sorry misread your post - I didn't realize it was about sound. So sound through the Waze app is a known issue with the DSR and stock HU. The only thing that ever played through the speakers while using Waze and the stock JBL HU was, "Welcome to New Hampshire/Massachusetts". No idea why only that would be audible but someone else here spent a decent amount of time trying to figure this out and I do not believe they got anywhere. Maybe they can chime in...

 

I think the greeting you got comes from the JBL HU maps. I get that too when I go in and out of state.

 

Lol...then officially no sound from the Waze app for me. Took many many months to realize it because I always have the sound off anyway.

 

Same here on my Kenwood.
I don't know if the sound works or not, I've never had it on.

But I can get in my truck, hit Siri on the steering wheel and say 'open Waze and take me to work', then Waze pops up and gives me an ETA.

 

Yep, I can confirm all 3 apps (Apple maps, google maps and Waze) do not have voice through the system. The music does level down for it, but no voice. Could be IOS, DSR1 or stock wiring. One test I would try is add the left/right dash speakers to the AMP. The fun of trouble shooting, change 1 thing, test it and then try the next thing. 2 of those 3 things could be fixed

 

Looks like your dash speakers aren't connected to the amp. Maybe that's why there's no voice from Apple/Google/Waze? I've seen this question come up a few times now...

 

I can confirm my dash is connected I have sound coming out of them and my center is connected to the right front channel on the amp. So sound is coming from it.

 

You are speaking of the specific apps that are being tested, correct?
I am aware my dash speakers are not connected by design and voice for Toyota navigation and Siri work fine, it is other applications in car play that are not.
Not a biggie for me as I use the standard navigation, but others on this board have asked this question about these apps without a clear answer.

 

Sorry yes certain apps voice is not coming thru (Waze, Google maps) I have sound coming out of my dash speakers (music from any app). Now the dash speakers may be piggy back off of the Front door speakers, Since the wiring harness is going thru the dsr1 and there is only R/L Front & R/L Rear and sub output from the DSR1. So maybe the HU directs the sound for the voice thru the dash/center speakers channel which is not really there to the dsr1 to the amp. I can talk on the phone and hear who I am talking to. I'm just trying to bounce off ideas to trouble shoot. Its either something simple or a software issue with the dsr1.

 

I have had the new stereo bug for a couple of months now. I do my research, even thou I have no clue about stereos anymore. I'm dumb as a box of rocks when it comes to wiring. I had my eye on the Taco set up. Started looking around on here, and found this write up. Just wanted to say Thank You, just ordered my kit today from James@tech12volts.com, he steered me in the right direction, gave me a choice of sub boxes (going with the 2-10s) even gave me a choice of JBL, or Kenwood subs. I'm going to get my doors, and back wall sound deadened while I'm waiting for my box, or boxes of goodies to get here. Thanks again for posting your build, I would have never thought to use James, and with the money I saved I'm going to buy the AJT Chrome delete kit, going Red & Black my favorite color combo....

 

I would like to take credit, but others have come before me to help me make the same decision. Agree, you would be hard pressed to find a better sound to price ratio. Never heard of Hertz before, but some sweet sounding speakers. Best part is didn't have to cut a single stock harness to install it, so the option to toss the stock AMP back should I ever decide to move to a new vehicle.

 

I had never installed a stereo in a vehicle in my life. I purchased the JBL kit from Randy and the install went smoothly. You should be satisfied with the package you purchased. Just take your time and follow the instructions. I wish I would have went with the 2 10's instead of the single 12 but I am so glad I did mine.

 

Well, the 12 volts amp rack was more then adequate, but the OCD in me about wiring wouldn't let it be. So got some quarter inch abs to build a new one that would allow me to mount the AMP and DSR on the same board and route all the wires below the rack. This really freed up space and didn't feel as crowded when done.
Also picked up the dash corner speakers from James, this raised the sound stage and put it forward some while maintaining stereo separation. This really compliments the Hertz setup perfectly. Now I think I can call it done, except for some tuning tweaks possibly.

 

Did you get any kind of instructions with your kit ? I did not get anything so your pics have helped a ton. Thanks

I'll throw up a pic of the dual 10's rather than make another thread if thats ok.
I was confused about how to wire the subs as there are jacks on each end of the enclosure but I was sent 1 10' RCA cable and one 10' section of speaker wire. Didn't make any sense. Sent James an email and he said they should be run in parallel and that I was to use the speaker wire and run a jumper wire from one to the other, the RCA cable is not used for my system.
Problem is, theres no way to pass a wire internally so this is what I did. I drilled a small hole on the back side and ran it that way.