Magnuson 2650 ordered 9/14

I need to! My wideband is going bonkers right now when I drive. Going to calibrate tomorrow or Monday and see if it makes a difference.
The truck hauls ass right now. Especially past 3500/4000 rpms

 

If you’re wideband is anything like mine, the reading is generally pretty bouncy. It reacts very quickly so the reading is never exactly steady. My Harrop 2650 with the stock 85mm pulley (granted a stock NA airbox) was hitting 7psi max even in cool temps. I’ve since upgraded the airbox to the magnuson box like yours, and went to a 77.5mm pulley and my max now is 10ish depending on density altitude. If the Maggie comes with an 86mm pulley, something seems odd about hitting 10-11psi.

 

Oh it’s insanely annoying right now. Nothing like my old e46m3 wideband. I need to calibrate it or maybe the bung is wrong and the sensor is too deep. Not quite sure but I’ll figure it out.
For the boost, the gauge just has a map sensor and a boost tap off the side of the Maggie manifold. No much there to get wrong, if anything. It’s mounted correctly. Reads 4-6 psi under moderate acceleration and goes to 8/9/10 higher up the rpm/power band and hits 10/11 and holds it to redline.

 

She looks even better after a good nights sleep.

I still need to install the radium catch can. Didn’t get around to it yesterday and felt so wrong to delay a test drive after it was all installed and tested. One day this upcoming week I’ll get that in

 

I think part of what amazes me the most with this motor and kit is the unrelenting smoothness of the powerband. It only increases power as you move towards redline. Doesn’t let up at all and just gets stronger. Very impressed with the delivery and smoothness.

 

Awesome. Any more pics of the heat exchanger and hose routing with the grill off?

 

I can snag a few and post.
I followed directions for the most part but ended up routing a little diff to make it cleaner.

 

Thanks! I have a winch and power steering cooler on mine and I'm trying to get an idea of how much relocating i'd need to do to fit it.

 

let me know if you need more specific or different pics

 

Alright, so I was able to recalibrate my boost and afr gauges.
Now I'm hesitant that either one was correct previously.

vac reads about -20 at idle now, when it was -12 or so... so it may have been reading off previously. I'll drive the truck tomorrow and report back.

AFR gauge needed to be recalibrated and now reads 14.5 at idle... seems good to be. I'll see how it reads tomorrow when I drive to work.

 

The 1.9 I did as one unit same as the Whipple

 

Cross reference the stock narrowband sensors with the AFR gauge, they should match up pretty close until you get into power enrichment and the truck richens out. If it's still reading weird, your issue may be the sensor not sticking into the exhaust far enough. I installed an Innovate wideband on a guy's truck last week and I had to cut the included bung in half since the sensor tip was flush with the end (like those catalytic converter spoofing kits where the sensor gets pulled out of the stream). If you look at the stock narrowbands they sit almost halfway into the exhaust tube too. If it's reading 14.5 it's probably good now.

Depending on what tune you're running the AFR under boost may be wonky too. If you aren't running a custom tune I'd highly recommend that. 10-11psi is quite a bit. In my opinion it's a safe amount of boost, but you need the fueling/tune to back it up, and if you're running a canned tune that came with the blower there's a good chance it's not enough. Though I haven't followed your install so not sure what tune or injectors you're running.

 

Yeah the bung that comes with the innovate gauge was very long. I ended up buying one off Amazon to use, not knowing if the gauge would come with it. I ended up using the one I purchased separately because of the better length (shorter) and sensor penetration. 14.5-14.8 at idle seems ok to me. I'll report back after tomorrow.

With the boost gauge reading more accurately at idle, I think my original 10-11 psi may have been incorrectly displayed. I'm thinking it may be more like the 7-9 or 7-8 that was advertised with the kit. I'm running the magnuson tune via hp tuners. Happy for now... although I'm sure I can get more out of the blower with a better tune. Just not sure where to go on that... tbd.

 

If you are able to datalog with the HPT setup you have, I'd be happy to look over the log (or send you my datalog layout for yourself) so you can see how the truck is performing, then you'd know how good or bad your setup is. And while a tune is nice, they're not cheap and majority of trucks run what Magnuson came with. I did that for probably two years and the truck was fine. No doubt better than a Stage 1 Harrop that has no tune!

 

Ok yeah same here ! Just threw me for a loop for min

 

Thanks for the offer. I may end up taking you up on that at some point. Depends how the afr and boost numbers look tomorrow. The motor sounds very quiet and happy right now.
I’m sure a real dyno tune isn’t cheap but there’s something to be said about real time tuning for a specific motor/setup.
Truck runs great now so not in any sort of rush

 

Ok back to more mods.

to sqhd traction bar or not…that is the current question.

 

if I had to do it over (I have Caltracs) - I would do SDHQ.

no more wheel hop. they work.

caltracs work great...but can clatter over rough roads.

 

There is just a significant cost difference, but would rather do it once and be happy with the choice. It's on the short list of things left to do... for now.

Need to get some skid plates installed too. My factory mounting holes need to be drilled and tapped... old bolts broke off and haven't wanted to deal with that in years. Now it seems like something to take care of. Thinking about RCI aluminum plates.... motor and trans.
Skid Plate Package | 07-21 Tundra - RCI Off Road (rcimetalworks.com)

 

Those are what I'm running, plus the added cat shields, and a gas tank skid. They fit great once you take time to align them and gasket/washer a few locations to keep vibration rattles stopped.

 

LOL...I know about this.

if you have one loose skid plate bolt, it will vibrate when it matches a certain RPM. mine groaned.

groaned like you would after a heavy squat session & you lie on the garage floor and make a noise. that noise.

I tightened the bolt, the truck is now silent. I still make the noise, no fixing that.

 

Groan is a perfect description. When cold at higher idle it wouldn't resonate at all, so starting up at home it would be fine. Then after driving around a while, it would when in traffic. I glued a thin (1/8" thick) strip of rubber to the top of the trans skid that contacts the engine skid. I also use a nylon washer at the rear mounting bolts of the front skid between the crossmember and the engine skid. I also installed rubber between the trans skid plate and mounting bracket. I think I also drilled 2 additional centered holes in the trans mounting bracket to really cinch it tight.

Now, silent!

 

Thoughts on this one?
Tundra Front Skid Plate | (07-21) - Victory 4x4

Pricing seems reasonable. Nice full protection.

edit - I'm realizing that the picture is deceiving and it's not the full skid (engine and trans) for that price. no longer reasonable lol. back to RCI raw aluminum i think.

 

OK so todays driving revealed the following boost and afr numbers...
boost - 8 or 9 WOT but hard to tell when driving and trying to see afr too (will confirm these numbers tomorrow)
afr - 10.5 ish at WOT around 5k rpms at around 8/9 psi

These seem OK to me. Thoughts?

 

My numbers also similar 7-8 pounds wot I belive I'm in the 11's for air/fuel ...but also tvs1900 so who knows

 

Did you get steel or aluminum? Any pics? Thanks!

 

Ok so sounds about right. Appears to be similar/ballpark numbers. Better a little too rich than a little too lean. Thanks!

 

Absolutely perfect, right where you want to be.

 

Aluminum, at least for engine and trans. Gas tank is only offered in steel I think. Sorry, no photos.

 

Right on. Yeah I believe only steel is offered due to costs likely being too high to offer it in aluminum.
Any chance you could snag a pic of it.. if you ordered bare aluminum. Trying to get an idea of how well it's held up over time.