JPink's 05 DC SR5

Christmas Eve I pulled the front seats, the door panels, and prepped for a cleaning. The rusty “feet” on the seats bothered me every time I saw them.






The door side on both passenger and driver were the worst. Sanded them down, hit ‘em with some Rust Reformer and then followed up with two coats of Duplicolor Toyota 202. Tomorrow I will hit it with the Duplicolor clear coat. I was looking at the parts website and seems maybe there should be some plastic caps on the front of the seats? The back had them. Will order new bolts and investigate the caps further tomorrow.












After my brake job a bolt on the driver side bellcrank went missing. Today I jacked it up, pulled tires, reinstalled and fine tuned the parking brake more. In my testing it bottoms out from pressure after about 4 clicks, well before it bottoms out from travel. It was around 8 clicks prior.

Little upset at myself for not cleaning up the wheels before re-installing post brake job. Had some rust transfer to the drums. So I gave the wheels a light sanding and then threw a very thin coat of silglyde on the wheel where it mates with drum.






Then I scrubbed the spare tire holder bolts, soaked them in PB Blaster and started cranking them out. Soaked again once I got them halfway and then had to run some errands.






Oh and the battery area got some attention too.







They’re predicting up to 9 inches of snow tomorrow evening.

 

Fantastic work! The seat feet, and battery area look new again.

There is suppose to be caps for them that cover the bolts. I messaged @Roman to see about seat feet caps for my AC. Not sure if the DC is the same, but for my truck they were called "track end cover."

 

Nice to see some trunks restoration happening! Keep it up!

 

So I talked with my local Parts Department and the guy said my model didn’t have caps on the front of the seats to cover the mounting bolts. Only on the back.

I’ve spent a lot of time slowly pulling stuff apart. Cleaning to the best I can. Putting back together.

I put at least two coats of each: Rust Reformer, Duplicolor Toyota 202, and Duplicolor Clear Coat over the areas I sanded rust off. I’m very happy with the spare tire holder replacement. I went Toyota OEM on it, probably didn’t have to.














I’ve never installed sound isolation before. I did the Noico 80mil. Covered the seams/edges as best I could with aluminum HVAC tape. Then did Noico 315mil over top (Noico Red) with same tape treatment. If I had to do this again I believe I would be more efficient at it with cleaner results. I did use a heat gun to warm the pieces and area up as I was going. The Shame Garage didn’t get too terribly cold, but likely was at that borderline (or in early/late hours below) 60F. Definitely could tell a difference when piece was sufficiently warm. Typically the best way I found was to hold it by one end and if it wouldn’t hold itself up for any amount of time it was ready.

I did inside doors, the back behind seat, and the floors where I could. I avoided putting the 315mil where factory insulation was. Didn’t want to make things too difficult to hold back down in place. I’m still not done with the tape over 315 inside the doors, but close.










The first owner of the truck had an aftermarket amp, but when they sold it to the Previous Owner it was disconnected. Found some leftover wire still tapped into power hanging out. Left the taps, pulled the connections.




My brain wants me to find out what this black connection is/was for under passenger seat. Nothing was plugged into it.




My living room is full of door panels, center console bits, and various trim pieces. They’ve all been scrubbed with some Soappy Wodder and 303 rubbed over them. The front seats are still waiting to get reinstalled. I did swap out one of the two front passenger side power outlets with a double USB outlet. I removed the center power outlet but left the lit ring, however the USB outlet I ordered will not fit with the ring there. So I need to figure that out.

Have been dog sitting since November 15th. It was originally a 3 day dog sit. Haven’t heard from owner in a while. He never brought dog food. I think (hope) he’s mine now. Maybe he’ll disappear with me to Knoxville. He loves hanging in the truck.

 

Lots of little things done. Many big things to do. The move took over my free time.

I will say driving in the Tundra is a pleasure. I did 30hrs of driving over the course of a three day weekend and not once did I have numb-butt.

The Noico made a difference with road noise for sure. Even when on the phone people notice the lack of road noise now. I’m not sure if there is cheap noise cancellation in the KENWOOD mic but it’s possible it’s a combo of less road noise making for more efficient noise cancellation.

Power steering never got flushed. It needs it. I’ve been doing baster and it’s darker than it should be. New tires are great. For sure mileage is off. Odometer is 9.7 miles to 10 real miles.

Random truck pic:

 

Today I met up with @FirstGenVol and we tried to destroy my truck. I was too busy checking him out to take enough photos, but we did quite a bit done.




Erik had noticed previously that the accessory belt should be replaced, which made me start paying more attention to the noises up front. There certainly was a bit of a "squeal" on a cold start, and there seemed to be a "pop bottle blowing down the gravel road" kind of noise when idling.

When poking around the engine bay previously noticed that the bolt on the idler pulley was sticking out a bit, and the plate was missing.





So, got a big 'ol list of stuff:

• Gates K060908HD Micro-V Belt ($29.79)
• Denso 2101065 130Amp Reman Alternator ($125.79 + $79 core)
• Lower Radiator Hose 165720F011 ($27.80)
• Upper Radiator Hose 165710F031 (18.15)
• Radiator Hose Clamp 9046641003 ($9.58 x2)
• Radiator Hose Clamp 9046641005 ($6.34 x2)
• Engine Coolant Thermostat 9091603100 ($19.79)
• Thermostat Gasket 1634650010 ($3.83)
• Idler Pulley 166040F010 ($68.69)
• Idler Pulley Cover 1665950022 ($3.61)
• Idler Pulley Bolt 9008010313 ($1.39)
• Tensioner Assembly 166200W101 ($66.64)
• PEAK 50/50 antifreeze and coolant ($19.99 x3 but we used under 2)
• Parts Total: $536.29

Except I failed to order the hoses, clamps and thermostat from Rusty Wallace and had to buy local which meant rounding this off before Saturday cost me an extra $100.

We started by draining the coolant, fan shroud, radiator, belt, idler pulley, power steering & tensioner pulley. I turned my back for a second and Erik was knuckle deep in half a can of Fluid Film already.







Pulled the airbox so we could get better access to everything, plugged the intake manifold with some fancy blue paper Shop Towels, and pulled the old thermostat.





The idler pulley looks had a fantastic looking bolt, don't know if I really needed to buy the new one.





We had to get some covers off the timing belt to get the alternator out, but we were able to get the new alternator in place, as well as the new tensioner.






During all this we discovered a screw hanging out inside some hose keeping it plugged, and the nipple where it seems to belong, busted off. Gonna need to figure out what this...was...under the air intake, and add it to my "should be replaced" list.





We broke for some Chick-fil-A, then got everything buttoned up. Put about a gallon and a half in it, and took it for a test drive. About a block or so further I realized that I needed to put my seat belt on, noticed the check engine light, and subsequently couldn't get any power out of the gas pedal.

Coasted it to a stop off the main road and gave @FirstGenVol a call to come rescue me. He grabbed some tools, the OBDII scanner and headed my way.

I popped the hood and started retracing our steps to make sure we had everything connected. I didn't see anything leaking, the temp hadn't skyrocketed...then it hit me just as Erik pulled up behind me. I didn't pull the blue shop towels out of the intake. I asked him if he had, he didn't recall doing it. I very clearly knew I had pulled two new squares and jammed them in there. So, we cracked everything open and there they were. Sitting right up against the butterfly, in perfect shape. No bits and pieces missing. The OBDII scanner showed the codes matched up.

Did some more test driving with the heat cranked, and topped it off a bit. The squeal is gone, the random idle noises are gone. Not to mention it just feels better in my brain. Pulled the battery cable while Erik polished off 3 cans of Fluid Film while rolling around underneath the Tundra on his fancy roller.

Put the battery cable back on and checked for codes, no codes. No lights. Was able to drive home without issue and the coolant is right at the hot "Full" line.

Could've been a lot worse.... @FirstGenVol but we got a good story out of the deal.

 

Nice to see you back in action here, as its been a while! I think that broken hose nipple is part of a vacuum system for your Power Steering Pump.

 

Thanks @Professional ... PHM ...

It's been weird not having a garage. I've basically thrown my time into work, and making my new place work for me. I still visit, just usually for one off things and to give @Tundra2 or @FirstGenVol some hell.

 

I think you nailed it, this looks like it: Valve Assembly, Air Control. Part #1763016040.

 

Reminding you that I said this @FirstGenVol

 

This year my big items to do were suspension and fixing this noise. The noise was likely the idler pulley which was replaced when I did the belt back in June. So with that out of the way I spun up a suspension thread and started buying parts.

As you can tell by the rest of this thread I typically like to replace bolts surrounding the job I'm doing with new ones. Ditching rusty gnarly parts for new ones wherever possible, even if it's only a visual improvement...underneath...where no one will see it.

Much to the chagrin of @Tundra2 as I also typically refuse to use just any 'ol M8 bolt. If the new part didn't come with it, then I typically go Toyota bolt/washer/nut/prayers.

Looking back at the parts list @FirstGenVol and @Tundra2, I know now why I didn't order the Flange Bolt for the Leaf Springs. The bolt isn't available for purchase through McGeorge and I forgot to ask them about it.

So you can see, I spent about $74 thousand dollars on misc nuts and bolts. I'm glad I did though.

Despite spending the month of July hosing down the underside of my truck with various forms of penetrant, we ended up having to cut out:

1. Both upper control arms
2. The passenger UCA bolt (and pounding it out, and praying, and spraying Kroil directly over it.)
3. Both lower control arms
4. Both leaf spring packs
5. Both rear shocks

@Tundra2 hates his eyeballs so he tried to do some of this cutting without any glasses, but we were able to eventually convince him otherwise.










@FirstGenVol was the first one to really screw something up this time. I mean like terrible. Super bad. Very expensive. Unforgivable. No more driver side ABS for me.



I immediately forgave him.


On the passenger side the Sway Bar Link was put in facing the wrong direction by the mechanic the previous owner used. The nut should not be facing in this direction, and it definitely was loose. This is exactly how we found it:




We also really didn't feel that we were generating enough smells in the garage, so the rear diff got drained. One metal shaving was found on the drain plug.






I believe @FirstGenVol went through at least 4 cans of Fluid Film, maybe 5? Every time there was an opportunity he was in there, hosing it down.




While I didn't necessarily HAVE to replace the Spring Seat, I'm glad I did. I would've hated having new leafs, bolts, all sitting next to this garbage.




We did a brake bleed and pushed some Lucas Full Synthetic DOT 3 through my brakes, getting rid of the DOT 5.1 I put in over the fall. @Tundra2 and I swapped out the crusty PCV Valve.




We were legally obligated to take the gratuitous Truck Gang photo.




Yesterday I dropped the truck off at Rocky Top Customz here in Knoxville and asked them to put the Driver Clip on #5 and the Passenger Clip on #3. This should give me 1" of lift up front, and maybe offset some of the space the 265/70 17's are taking up. Between that, the SPC, and a lot of the extra rust removed there should be enough room to either greatly reduce or fully eliminate the slight rubbing on the passenger side.

Maybe. Guess we'll see.

 

I have literally thought about this every day since it happened. Your truck offered a good lesson on what to do(or not to do) when dealing with rust. If something isn't moving, even something that should easily come out, just STOP. We should have brainstormed as a group before I continued. Having removed my own sensor multiple times with ease, I never imagined that the tip of the sensor could fuse INSIDE the hub. Rust really has no limits apparently.

BTW, this is what the end of that sensor is supposed to look like.

 

Curious if you pop off the rear cover on the spindle if you could reach that thing from the inside with a punch. Seems like a very awkward angle though if its possible.

 

Are you saying this part comes off? Given how much rust there is, I'd be shocked if it came off at all or without doing a ton of damage. Might be worth a try though. When trying to remove the sensor I had a thin flathead under it which I was fairly gently tapping and prying. I assumed it was just rusted to the face of the spindle where it screws in. Boy was I wrong. It didn't take much to snap it right off. I felt and heard a POP which I thought was it breaking free. And it was, just not how I expected.

 

Yeah that cover comes off, I would order a spare before messing with it. They do deform when you get them off.