I'm at my wits end- Master Cylinder issues..

The junk yard replacement started leaking 1 week after the install aannnnnnnnnd had a tensioner pulley bearing go out

The dealership repair tech found out the Dumb AZZZZ parts department quoted the wrong part number and resulting price.... 1000.00 for the master n brake booster to the service coordinator THREE DIFFERENT TIMES. ANNNNND they had the parts in house to do the repairs all along.

I went thru the roof.

Went to Service Mgr. explained I had 30 day rental and purchased parts that could have been avoided first time.

Long story longer.... they took my expenses off this bill.... 1500.00 actual costs.. not "my time" searching, finding time etc.

The Mgr made it right.. I gave the repair techs Saltgrass steak house gift certificates for finding the discrepancy.. they installed all repair items.. booster n master free.

A lot to get there, but "All's well that ends."

Happy Stats

 

Stoked you got it fixed. Good on ya for tipping out the techs. Give us the final conclusion of exactly what parts we need and what to avoid. Some quick bullet points.

 

My situation 05 Tundra.. No ESC.. Electronic speed control
This is a total unit... Booster n master

As listed on the receipt.
OEM Parts
Cylinder Assy, Brake
P/n 47200-0C073 List $1224.71 Net.. $772.73
Labor $632.31
Added new fluid n bled brakes..

Lessons Learned:
NEVER get used parts that have seals or O rings.. They WILL degrade over time and may never work properly again as in my case...an 05 sitting in the TX sun/summers.. should known better and can't fix/repair them... obviously
NEVER trust a parts department answer to a parts answer. Make them prove (eyes on) the recommendation vs the VIN number.

The "seasoned" parts guy never cross-referenced my VIN to the documented replacement parts list..... just pulled it out of his ass as to what he
"thought" is was or "should be". This 05 year used two different master cylinder configurations..same with the Sequoias. Some had ESC.. some didn't... mine didn't and he thought it should have the higher priced part.

I'd find a source to cross reference parts to your VIN.. to verify every part referenced for future repairs.

YMMV

Hope this helps.

Stats

 

Took apart the failed cardone master...was missing an o ring between the main master and secondary unit that attaches to booster. Purchased a raybestoses master which came with replacement o rings that attached to the secondary unicorn part.. Makes me wonder what other gaskets and seals a1cardione left out of their rebuild that caused it to catastrophically fail at speed in the first place.

 

Been wondering how your situation turned out...thanks GOD it wasn't tragic like it could have been!

How long were you stuck.?
How do ya get home n how did you get a new part?
What was your fix?

Maybe my part number solution can help...

I'm SEWWWWW done w/ rebuilds n salvage parts.

I know dealerships aren't perfect by any stretch n you pay for their service dearly, BUT I do have easier recourse if needed vs a
parts house like Cordone or Summit who strung me along for 11 days of broken promises and $35/ day car rental w/ no results....

I HATE liars.

Give us an update on your situation.

Thanks Much

Stats

 

https://sosperformance.com/products...-2006-toyota-tundra-with-rear-disc-conversion

Doesnt work with VSC and they're looking for dbbl cab owners to beta test...

 

I'm not sure I'd want to be a Beta Tester for a "critical function" item such as my brakes. Too much potential liability for me personally and if something bad or a major accident were to happen...Oh boy, unleash the lawyers!

Looking at the configuration, my configuration has the brake line inputs on the opposite side of the item pictured... right side termination.

In the installed position (my config.)brake lines are on the left side, with another line from the master to the unicorn part.. left side as well. See my original pic.

I appreciate the input though. It is a solution, but not for me.

This whole experience has made me an OEM or nuthin' guy... buy once, cry once... hopefully.

Thanks for the input

My issue is solved and it took a long time to get there with a few good lessons learned.

 

Congrats. Having been there myself before, I know you can finally take a deep, relaxing breath. You scored BIG getting the dealer to cover your expenses...you musta' really raised some hell.

 

No, I really didn't raise some hell... the Svc. Mgr knows me by face n we make small talk conversations when I'm there.

Just presented it as "Your parts department presented some bad information to the service coordinator (3 times) which cost me 1500.00 of which didn't need to happen if the person had done their job right the first time.... i.e. cross-referenced to VIN to the correct parts list."

It was pretty simple.... I portrayed the following;
What would you do if this was your Mom or daughter's having the same issue?

I'm going to buy another truck and I want to buy it from this dealership, but if this unnecessary expense doesn't get resolved, I'll take my purchase and future service to another dealership.

And then I shut up....and didn't say a word.

Having two managers in the same room helped put the onus of "doing whats right" in their court...and they played nice.

Calm, cool n steady was the plan and was executed perfectly.

Brash, course language and threats wouldn't have been appropriate.

If you want to learn more about the negotiations tactics used.. get the CD's, book or audio book of
"Never Split the Difference" -Chris Voss.

I listened to them while driving...over and over.

Those tactics I learned REALLY worked n it was played in spades for this problem.

I was like.. CRAP.. this stuff DOES work.

This recommendation is a HUGH nugget of information for future negotiations of any kind.
Promise.

Hope this helps.

 

Going through the same thing right now.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/brake-master-cylinder.42038/

 

Just a dumb question, is it loosing fluid that you need to top it off several times or is it just a one time thing because the level is low?

 

I'm assuming you are asking me? I'm not sure, I'll ask him. I know he said something about fluid coming out when he removed it.

 

Ok, that's not where I was thinking.

 

See my previous post... #32, 34 for the work around.....
PLS DON'T buy a salvage part... seals will prolly be degraded n leak like it did mine... IF you can find one... my salvage part lasted a week.. tops..

Good Luck.... seriously buy the P/N listed above n save yourself a LOT of headache.

Stats

 

Whatever part u buy photo match it to your existing as 2005 used different masters and brake systems. My truck used part 11-3300 from cardone which is the only company to rebuiod and offer the OEM two part master together. I eventually bought a new raysbesrayb front main master and reused the back unicorn part that bolts to the booster. They're available on Amazon.

 

Like I said, I would of just used one from an older vehicle. All they did is make a 2 piece master cylinder.

 

Link?

 

ACDelco 18M2538 Professional Brake Master Cylinder Assembly

$137 ACDelco Professional 18M2538 Brake Master Cylinder Assembly

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4KWPSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n82ICb5ZWMS7E

AC Delco and raybestos same same... except for price

 

I'm confused as I have a 2006 DC with what seems is the same booster, balancing valve, master cylinder configuration as well. Did you say the dealer wants $3800 for the part? Is this part below not the correct part?

 

Picture of part is correct but Toyota doesn't include balancing valve for the 380. That's sold with the booster. Check the diagram of booster and you'll see it.

 

I think we have both a stability control and non stability control version in this discussion. The pic in the original post is appears to be the non stability version, which is also what I have. I'm thinking #47207 does come with the distribution valve. The stability version is completely different, or so it appears, and I see now the price for the assembly is $2k. Bummer if you have stability control.

 

Says that it's not included in the link below...I got excited for a minute.
https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota....G2Q6rK_3Yz4IKYUCNL6gS94rFnsYurGkaAorkEALw_wcB

 

I was a bit bummed my 2006 didn't have stability control when a bought it a few months ago....not anymore.

 

Thanks for pointing that our Bqe. Now I understand the problems others were having sourcing that part as the "entire booster" assembly mentioned in the notes , 44610-0C051, is discontinued. I would not have expected this from Toyota.

 

Problem is A1cardone is remanufacturing the OEM complete master cylinder but they're apparently screwing up as I've had three of theirs fail on me. I've purchased a new raybestoses front part only and now have the issue with the balancer part leaking into the booster. Wish Cardone would figure out how to fix this as it's not cool losing brakes at speed.

 

I see a reference on some of the parts websites to a master cylinder rebuild kit for $50 or so. Could it be as simple as replacing the three o-rings and possibly the piston #1 shown above?

 

Please post link for that website.

Does it include the rebuild for the secondary balancer unit? I see the o ring between booster and balancer but that just seals the vacuum and doesn't prevent brake fluid leaking into booster.

 

I'll find it again. The terminology is what's confusing me. Post #57 is from the service manual. What I believe your refer to as the "balancer" the FSM calls the master cylinder body.

 

It's called the secondary master cylinder.

 

https://parts.westkendalltoyota.com...0dW5kcmEmeT0yMDA2JnQ9c3I1JmU9NC03bC12OC1nYXM=