High Angle CV boots for Long Travel, 2nd/3rd gen

The sdhq boots are thick soft flexible rubber.

But I'll reserve judgment until they have some real miles on them

 

As far as I can tell, they're Neoprene rubber. RCV uses neoprene for their "high angle" stuff and SDHQ's website says these are basically the same. I'll give them a whirl, too. @osidepunker lets race to see who can rip theirs first

 

I will give the Toyota ones a try and see how they do.

 

I think they might be ok, my 16 had them also. At ride height they rub together much less than previous rubber boots I’ve had on various vehicles.

 

Just an FYI. The boots I pulled off felt about like the same material. So we will see how they hold up.

 

Keep us posted once you and Alex get some dirt miles.

 

The Toyota kit times with grease, clamps and boots.


Inner CV joint - held in by clip

Full axle exploded view

Inner CV

Inner Axle with C clip

Outer CV joint

 

You doing that work yourself?

 

Yupp - Its much easier when I have another vehicle to drive.
Only thing I am not sure of is what grease goes where. There are 2-200gram packs and a 215gram pack and a 90gram CV-Joint Lube-Pack.
The ones I did in the past only had 2 packs- one for the inner and one for the outer.

 

Nice!

huh. Call a shop and ask someone

 

fun stuff!
messy job, but saves a few bucks.
I can't tell from the picture, but are the grease packs different colors @n2deep ?
Part # different, would you happen to know which one is for inner and which for outer?

 

Would have had a shop do it but wanted to know how they work on the Tundra in case I need to do trail repair. All the grease packs look like the same color and thickness so not sure what goes where. Digging thru the service manual now to see what I can find.

 

for sure! let me know if you find anything on it. For my taco/4runner axles it was 2 different colors and viscosity, Light went inner and dark was outer.
Don't for get to inspect that bearing cage. Sometimes you can have very small hairline cracks in em.

 

cage looks good -just some surface wear mark but nothing significant.

 

i think the bearing grease doesn’t matter for tundras. Both inner and outer has bearing cages vs the Tacoma/4runner they had a Tripod bearing inner and cage outer. And there cage outer uses the thicker bearing grease.
Only thing that bugs me is the different part # on your bearing grease packages

 

The Toyota Service manual says pack the outer CV with approx 300grams of grease and the inner CV with 400grams of grease from the boot kit. So looks like the 2 200 gram packs go in the inner CV and the 215 and 90 gram packs go in the outer CV.

 

So I filled one boot and clamped it down and sure as shit the crimping tool broke. POS - waiting on a HD tool to finish the job. So the truck sits on jack stands till Friday.

 

damn dude that sucks. send me a link to the HD tool you bought

btw, I put a couple hundred freeway miles on the new boot and so far no leaks. The OEM boots would leak immediately so maybe the new ones are good. We'll see after I do a real trip

 

what tool did you use?

 

@n2deep or @osidepunker u guys got a diy thread/link to rebuild axles? I'm due for booty replacement as well.

 

I can make one but the new tool won't be here till tomorrow and I can finish the job. If the tool doesn't suck haha

 

It was something I picked up at CarQuest. The one that Napa had looked even less stout.

 

damn, its not the tool.. you just too buff.

 

So zero leaks so far from SDHQ boots???

 

Yeah so far no leaks, but I've only done about 200 street miles. Nooo to do a real dirt trip before I call them good

 

So one thing about the OEM boots is since they are a little stiffer the ridge that rides in the groove on the axle is a bit more solid. Is that good or bad? I don't know yet I just know where the boot sits on the axle it was more secure before clamping down.

 

@n2deep Hard core, brother! If I had my front axles laid out in front of me like that, I would be freakin out ( a bit! )....and I was a bit apprehensive about installing ABS guards...Ha!

 

Just have to think of things like a puzzle and put it back together like it came apart. However on the second axle I forgot a few things and had to pull it apart three times. Just moving too fast and forgot the inner clamp for one boot and then the clip that holds the inner cage from pulling out. Made a bigger mess and had to be careful not to destroy the outer clamp when I pulled it off so I could reuse it. I have been waiting toooo many days for parts on the repairs and didn't want to wait anymore.

 

@n2deep do you have any particular guide that you find worked best? I've been watching the good ole youtubes in preparation for doing my rebuild Monday

 

I will post up a step by step tomorrow. I just finished and cleaning up.

Here is the Service Manual infohttps://drive.google.com/open?id=1kc2CikbqdiXJbVEQ0m2x4CDzjE1k93Ux
Pull Wheel
Remove Axle dust cover, cotter pin and axle nut
Remove two lower Ball Joint bolts
Pull axle out of Hub - careful not to damage seals and pull hub out of way and support with jack or stands.
Pry inner axle from differential - You will lose fluid so have pan ready
Once Axle is out cut existing band off CV boots and remove C clip from inner axle housing
pull axle apart following Service manual - keep track of how it came apart.
Clean axle and install outer CV boot and fill with Approx 300grams of grease
I banded the small side so it didn't move around as I was trying to fill with grease.
Clamp the big side of the outer CV boot.
Place the small ring over the axle and then the inner CV boot - install the bearing race and the c-clip holding it on the axle.
Found it easier to install the cage and ball bearings into the inner CV cup and then the C clip to keep it from coming out before filling with grease.
Clamp the small side of the boot and fill with grease.
Clamp the large side and replace the C clip on the inner axle and re-install axle into truck. Using a Screw driver if needed to tap the axle into the differential. (See Service Manual)
Install outer axle thru hub careful no to damage seals - install axle nut to pull axle thru hub. Install lower ball joint bolts and torque to 221lbs.
Torque Axle nut to 249lbs -re-install Lock cap, cotter pin, axle dust cap and Wheels

Drain and fill Front diff(2.2qt) or just top off - I used Amsoil 75w-90
This is the tool I used for the CV clamps and it seemed to work OK -

$29 OTC 4722 Stinger Heavy-Duty CV Boot Clamp Installer

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4722-Sti...=UTF8&qid=1534631784&sr=1-2&keywords=otc+4722