Hertz Group Buy/Sound Deadening/Thermal Teatment Install

Anytime!

 

Got it. Thanks again for the work and posting!

 

Looks like some work there

 

Couple questions before I start my 12 Tech install.
Did you drill pilot holes into the speaker adapters and or the sub box before installing/securing speakers? Does the sub just lay in the hole and then screw it down?
There are no crossovers for the Hertz tweeters?
Do I just tap the tweeters into speaker wires coming from factory HU or is there a way to get a harness for this front and back?


Thanks.

 

Looks really great. Did mine last year, tho' just the doors and back wall on my CM. Don't you just love the way the doors sound now when you close them?

 

Hey there! Ok so to answer your questions, I had to stick along screw through the adapters to pop out the last little plug of wood stuck in there but all my adapters has pre drill holes in the correct positions. If yours don’t contact James.

I did drill tiny little pilot holes for the sub but real small ones as the screw will go through the bottom of the wood anyway.

Yes sub lays in the box and gets screwed down. Imagine how the box will be oriented In the car. I put the logo on the sub so you could read it when the seat was up. So sub logo basically parallel to the front of the box

There’s no harness for the tweets. What I did was take the harness for the door speakers and splice in your tweeter and then connect to the existing speaker harness. With that method you won’t have to tap the factory wiring and everything will be reversible/ won’t mess with your warranty. I de pinned the new harness to give me freedom to solder my connections without having to try to keep the wires separate the whole time. There’s pictures of this step in my post.

I don’t think the tweets have crossovers. You will be using the crossovers on your amp.

The damn little tweeter ring is a bitch. Use some lube and lots of profanity.

 

Sounds like a muscle car meets Mercedes! Very satisfying sound! Good job. Those doors are a pain to get into!

 

Nicely done.
The benefits of doing this type of work go beyond having better sound coming of the speakers.

 

I was waiting at a light with my windows down and there was a small construction crew right next to me. I rolled the windows up and it was like they disappeared. Not a sound. I’m also very impressed with the thermal damping. I feel like my AC is a beast now compared to before.
I read somewhere they did a test where sound dampening could reduce driver fatigue by a considerable margin over long distances.

 

like that you installed deadening on floor. How much did it take?

based on your picture below, you may need a little carpet with that dog hair...

 

Haha 3 years of dog under the seat is horrible! I used 1 box for the doors, one box for the ceiling, and 1 box on the floors and back wall. I think each box is 36sq/ft

 

Thanks. Great write up.

 

How long did it take to disassemble ? I assume the truck is not your daily driver

Ok I saw your post about it being 40 hours

 

Oh man. I did all 4 doors sound mats and speaker wiring/ grease window track etc.. took me about 12 hours.

The floors and rear were easy and with removing seats carpets, trim panels, but also wiring amp and running wires took a while, I’d say at least another 10.

Headliner was the worst. Took me at least 10 hours to pull all parts from trims, remove all parts from headliner, remove and clean headliner, sound mat, heat mat, tape up wires etc...

I spent about another 8 hours. assembling the interior, and wiring amp to speakers, replacing headliner, seats, trim panels, carpets, dome light etc... which was actually very easy with the methods I described.

Mind you i went full coverage. Some guys recommend only 60% coverage which would have saved me time but since I was already in there I went all out!!

 

Also truck is DEF not the daily driver. She was down almost 2 weeks while I found time in the afternoons and weekends. I would say do 1 door at a time to completion. 1 door can fully be done in an afternoon. The floor/ ceiling would be one weekend each. Install back only the driver seat so you can still drive it but when you do the ceiling the next weekend you won't have to remove everything again.(if possible)

 

I have a box of Kilmat still unopened. I'm looking more to reduce drone from the exhaust which is over powering the stereo

 

Mat your floors ! Cuts out the exhaust and drive train noise. I thought you could also remove that fire mat from the underside of your hood and mat that, then re-install. If I’m not mistaken the Noico products are rated for that.

 

I've got some practice removing the door panels to install puddle lights, but removing all the seats and hardware sounds very tedious and then more time in surface prep for the mat and vinyl. I think you may have just created some inspiration to go for it.

Thanks for the the helpful tips.

 

The floors are the easiest part. Just takes a while if you do it by yourself. Each seat has 4 bolts. Everything else just snaps out of place. Very straight forward. I just wiped everything with a dripping wet alcohol rag and waited for it to dry. GO FOR IT!!

 

You make it sound so simple

 

Does the ring for the tweeters go over the speaker or do I add through the bottom?

I hope this makes sense as I just broke a ring.
Barely pushing from the bottom.

Thanks

 

Through the back. It’s so hard to do I would contact James for a freereplacement as the directions don’t specify this part. Seems only fair.

 

That ring was the hardest part of the install so don’t feel bad. If you stretch it slowly it’ll go in without breaking you have to line up the three notches.

 

All finished with the front speakers and the tow mirrors today.
Rear speakers next weekend.

James said he would send a replacement.


Thanks.

 

Good to hear! I had no doubt he would.

 

Post some pictures!

 

Hey folks, do you think this foam at HD will work as a middle layer?

 

I’m assuming by middle layer you are using it as soundproofing?
IMO... absolutely not. It’s all be bunches up in the bottom of your doors before the year is out.

 

Ok you have good point for a vertical application, what about if it's laid on the floor ? I haven't seen the specific foam made for sound deadening so I don't know the differences

 

$166 Noico 80 mil (2 mm) 36 sqft (3.4 sqm) car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deaden...ocphy=9031472&hvtargid=pla-379817158544&psc=1

I would use a product rated for heat and meant for the application. I don’t think the sticky wrap will provide much of anything for sound deadening. I did my whole truck in the above posted product.