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Help with Tapping Noise!!

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Ryedog12, May 16, 2019.

  1. Jun 24, 2019 at 1:28 PM
    #61
    Ryedog12

    Ryedog12 [OP] New Member

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    Lol. Nah I love this truck and want it to pull through. Even on the tow truck I can’t help but look back at it and smile. Just wish it would run the way it’s supposed to! I’m kind of hoping it’s something that small but we shall see. As soon as he runs his diagnostics and gets back with me I’ll let y’all know.
     
  2. Jun 24, 2019 at 8:49 PM
    #62
    Hooptytrix

    Hooptytrix Squeaky Chicken

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    I don't know why but many mechanics have failed getting the timing belt done right on these trucks. I'm not sure if it has something to do with the parts or Toyota's tight tolerance's. My cousins v8 4runner went to shit after getting the timing belt done, it took a lot to get it straight.
    I am hoping for better luck, my timing belt is do.
     
  3. Jun 24, 2019 at 9:45 PM
    #63
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    It shouldn't be that hard....the neighbor kid here did the one on mine a couple years before he sold it do me and it's been great.
     
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  4. Jun 25, 2019 at 3:08 AM
    #64
    02goes

    02goes New Member

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    The starter is under the intake manifold, was that changed out? That would explain a lot if so.
     
  5. Jun 25, 2019 at 9:02 AM
    #65
    Ryedog12

    Ryedog12 [OP] New Member

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    I don’t think it was, I remember them telling me about the starter and showing me where it was on the old motor. We talked about how it’s buried in there pretty good lol. I suppose it could have been that, idk if that explains why it just died out coming to a stop after driving great for 80-100 miles. Idk that the battery is completely dead either, all the accessories worked after the truck died on the side of the road. I’m starting to think there might be some truth to what Hooptytrix said about getting the timing right. But I have confidence in my mechanic. He used to work at a Lexus dealership for a long time and always had Toyota’s or Lexus at his shop and his family even has multiple Lexus and Toyota cars. It did sound like it was getting out of Timing. I noticed the RPMS would kind of dip when slowing down the last 30-40 miles before it broke down. Just chalked it up to a dirty MAF and told myself to clean it later.
     
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  6. Jun 25, 2019 at 10:23 AM
    #66
    remington351

    remington351 New Member

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    Thanks for keeping us updated. My money is still betting on an electrical gremlin.
     
  7. Jun 25, 2019 at 11:35 AM
    #67
    Filthyphil

    Filthyphil Lions Not Sheep

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    The fact it stalled when you came to a stop and then it started back up again and was running weird makes me also think something electrical for sure.
     
  8. Jun 25, 2019 at 8:40 PM
    #68
    02goes

    02goes New Member

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    Pardon me, I wasn't thinking. So what are you going to do now. This is beginning to get expensive for you.
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2019
  9. Jul 9, 2019 at 4:23 PM
    #69
    Ryedog12

    Ryedog12 [OP] New Member

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    I’m not sure yet. I’m just hoping he’s found something that would be the culprit. At this point I’m at a stand still. I should have an update tomorrow, haven’t talked to him since I dropped it off for the second time and made my post. I really have no idea what to do if he replaces the motor and says he has no idea why it did it keeps dying. It puzzles me that the motor runs strong for 100 or so miles then just seems to give out. If the timing was done wrong it would be obvious from the moment I try to drive it away I would think, Same thought process if it was electrical. Any ideas what I could check next? I’m stumped and getting worried that it will never be fixed and I have a truck that will just basically detonate itself every time. Idk that even the dealership would be able to help either. I can’t reproduce anything until the last few moments where it slowly kills itself lol.
     
    Jerry311SD likes this.
  10. Jul 9, 2019 at 7:28 PM
    #70
    Filthyphil

    Filthyphil Lions Not Sheep

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    Do you have the original pcm in the truck still?
     
  11. Jul 9, 2019 at 7:29 PM
    #71
    Ryedog12

    Ryedog12 [OP] New Member

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    From what I know about the truck, yes. I don’t believe it’s been changed out.
     
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  12. Aug 30, 2019 at 7:53 AM
    #72
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    Any update on this? How's the truck?
     
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  13. Aug 30, 2019 at 8:27 AM
    #73
    Ryedog12

    Ryedog12 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for your continued interest as I go through this journey!

    Truck is still in the shop. The second motor ended up needing a top end rebuild. I guess the second motor was faulty too? The parts all got shipped off to the machine shop and supposedly the complete motor is going back in the truck as of yesterday. He’s keeping it over the weekend to test drive and I should have it back next week. Fingers crossed guys I really need this lol.
     
  14. Aug 30, 2019 at 8:33 AM
    #74
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    Man, you've been through hell on this. Since the 2nd motor was defective, I'm assuming you got some of your money back? I hope?

    Keep us posted on how she runs.
     
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  15. Aug 30, 2019 at 8:56 AM
    #75
    Ryedog12

    Ryedog12 [OP] New Member

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    Hah yup. More like Hell and back, then back to hell lol.
    I haven’t been offered any kind of refund yet but I’m sure when I pick up the truck any negotiations like that might get put on the table. I honestly just want my truck back and have it working like it should be. If I could at least get that I would be happy. As soon as I get it back I’ll definitely let y’all know.
     
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  16. Sep 24, 2019 at 6:39 PM
    #76
    Ryedog12

    Ryedog12 [OP] New Member

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    Got the truck back and put about 300 miles on it with no issues. It feels amazing good power and most of all no knocking! However now I have a P0172 and P0175 code. I noticed it feeling sluggish and had some hesitation on a trip to the grocery store. Got home and heard it misfiring and then got this code. There’s no tapping noise which is good but any ideas what it might be?
     
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  17. Sep 25, 2019 at 4:47 AM
    #77
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Been Real

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    Wife had a 2000 GMC when we first met, had same code, talked her into my first code reader at autozone instead of $75 for GMC to clear code. Problem ended up being throttle body needed cleaning and also cleaned MAF !
     
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  18. Sep 25, 2019 at 8:01 AM
    #78
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD New Member

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    Clean your MAF and check for a vaccum leak Or a loose hose.
     
  19. Sep 25, 2019 at 4:48 PM
    #79
    Ryedog12

    Ryedog12 [OP] New Member

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    B4984EE7-2BE9-4FD5-BC4A-39321DEAA185.jpg
    So I checked the MAF sensor and it was covered in oil. I had just cleaned it so I was a bit confused. I opened the air box and the paper filter is brand new and clean. However, there is another filter attached to the top of the air box and it’s covered in oil. The same oil covering the MAF and there is even some oil in the intake pipe after the box leading the the throttle body. Any of y’all have this same issue? Is it normal or should I take out that other filter?
     
  20. Sep 25, 2019 at 4:51 PM
    #80
    Jerry311SD

    Jerry311SD New Member

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    Take that off.
    I took mine out and it didnt cause any problems at all.
    If it's oil soaked there was probly a K&N in there at one time with to much oil. that might be your problem.
     
  21. Sep 25, 2019 at 5:11 PM
    #81
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    I just re read this thread. Original engine failed, replacement failed and was rebuilt, now your rebuilt engine is giving you issues. No one has luck this bad. Who the hell is this mechanic? Why did it take him 4 months to get it fixed? Something doesn't add up here.
     
  22. Oct 4, 2019 at 4:56 AM
    #82
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    @Ryedog12 I hope I didn't scare you off. Come back so we can try to help and see how this saga ends.
     
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  23. Oct 4, 2019 at 1:53 PM
    #83
    Ryedog12

    Ryedog12 [OP] New Member

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    Lol no not at all. It’s just been crazy trying to figure out what to do next. But I ask myself that same question too sometimes lol.

    The tapping is gone which I’m glad, I agree that no one has this much bad luck but I also think it’s just stuff that is bound to go out? Sensors, plugs, coils, filters. It’s all stuff that is around that time to change out is what I keep telling myself.

    Again, the truck drove perfect when I picked it up from the shop for like 300 miles. Then I took a trip to the groceries and it was real sluggish and low on power when I got home. Something had to give out, I think it’s gotta be fuel related or spark. I bought new MSD coils to throw on. They were a good price and say they meet or exceed OEM specs. The OE ones are pretty expensive and I figure MSD is a decent brand.

    The idle fixed after I replaced the mass air flow sensor with a new one however it still misfires and when I rev it kind of quickly from idle it sputters and sounds like it’s choking. I’m thinking it’s getting too much fuel which is why I got those codes for running rich.

    Once I get the coils I’m going to pull the plugs and check them all out. He put new plugs in for me, I pulled one and it’s a brand new NGK. But I’ll be rechecking the gap on all of them and doing another compression check just to be sure.
     
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  24. Oct 13, 2019 at 1:53 PM
    #84
    Ryedog12

    Ryedog12 [OP] New Member

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    Compression test came out fine thankfully, it doesn’t seem like any more damage has been done. I pulled all the plugs and coils and put in new NGK iridiums and new MSD coil packs.

    fired it up again and still got the misfire with no codes. It’s also doing the thing where I give it a quick rev and it stalls and doesn’t quite rev up, sounds like it’s choking.

    The plugs did look pretty new when I took them out however they did look a bit orange only on one side, anyone good at reading plugs that can tell me what they mean?

    I did take a peek in the cylinders with a bore scope when I had the plugs out for the compression test and I noticed on cylinder 1 there was a clear drip of gas on the top of the cylinder. So I’m thinking maybe it has a leaky injector? I have a new set that I had ordered a while back that I’ll be putting in. Does anyone have any tips on installing these? Can’t quite seem too many resources online.
    A23697A8-5B14-4DB0-A3B2-9C5DC42D121A.jpg 7B7866F8-9447-4EC1-AD0A-E15C985A8604.jpg EE36D6EA-AFF3-4EE1-B829-21542609FE4C.jpg A23697A8-5B14-4DB0-A3B2-9C5DC42D121A.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2019
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  25. Oct 13, 2019 at 2:01 PM
    #85
    ZappBrannigan

    ZappBrannigan The mind is willing but the flesh is weak

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    Good god you have a lot of patience. I think I might have covered the the thing in gasoline and burned it by now.
     
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  26. Oct 13, 2019 at 2:21 PM
    #86
    GODZILLA

    GODZILLA Hail to the King, Baby.

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    Same here. I have luck like this on used vehicles. Just one big unending headache. I just don't buy used anymore. If I can't afforde new, I don't need it.:notsure:
     
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  27. Oct 13, 2019 at 2:35 PM
    #87
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    The spark plugs look normal, or in "as expected", condition to me.

    Edit @Ryedog12 : Wait, you said those are new plugs with about 300 miles on them? :eek: Crap, not normal for 300 miles, maybe for 80K. Electrodes look fine, but there is a LOT of black deposits around the outside. I would wonder if you're burning oil.

    As for compression pressures, see thread below, post #18 for @BubbaW screen shot of the Toyota SRM page for taking compression pressure readings on 4.7L engine. Not good news, I'm afraid, but at least you'll know where you are. Toyota has high standards for compression pressures; fourteen psi between cylinders is tight (<10%):

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/oil-pressure-issue.54487/#post-1429790
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2019
  28. Oct 13, 2019 at 7:53 PM
    #88
    Ryedog12

    Ryedog12 [OP] New Member

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    @JohnLakeman ill check the oil next. I think it’s doing okay though but never hurts to check. What does the higher compression on that cylinder mean? I know lower compression can mean a few things but don’t know what it means if one is higher.

    I still think it has something to do with fuel delivery since I saw the fuel dripping on cylinder 1. Cylinder 8 was wet when I scoped it and it had some carbon build up on it while all the others looked dry and clean.
     
  29. Oct 13, 2019 at 10:47 PM
    #89
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    This seems logical to me. There is no good reason to ever have fuel in a cylinder like that.
     
  30. Oct 14, 2019 at 5:23 AM
    #90
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    If you go to that thread/post I referenced, the Service Repair Manual indicates maximum compression pressure for the 4.7L as 199 psi, with a minimum allowed pressure of 149 psi.

    All of your cylinders started out close to 200 psi. Now, all cylinders are BELOW minimum allowed pressure of 149 psi except for the "high cylinder", #8 (150 psi). Further, the SRM allows only 14 psi difference between cylinders. Of the remaining seven cylinders, only #3 and #7 meet that requirement. Engine appears to have a LOT of wear if the compression test was done properly. It appears your mechanic "bought a pig in a poke", and then poured a lot of your money into it. Regretfully, that investment is mostly down a rat hole, and given this whole experience, I'm depressed for you. :(

    If your mechanic gets it running, it may soldier on poorly for awhile, but soon you will be faced with another big engine decision. If you want to keep the truck for a long time, I would recommend what someone suggested early in this thread: buy a Toyota certified reman engine, install it, and skip the expense and drama. Otherwise, "fall out of love", sell it and find another "girl".
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2019

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