Help: Catastrophic Engine Failure 5.7L V8

Yep. The 150 mile drive didn’t cause the holes. The person who replaced the knock sensor PROBABLY did.

 

^^^^This is the mechanic we all need. Seriously, good on ya. It's seems far to rare to find someone with true integrity. RESPECT.

 

Hydrostatic lock is actually is not a bad explanation for the OP's damage. I like the theory for explaining that bulging "rupture" crack, i.e. incompressible liquid applies uniform pressure to the cylinder wall until it finally fractures at the weakest point, blowing off the pressure causing the "bulge" just before IT lets go.

But, a lot of questions would remain unanswered, like when/how was coolant leaked into both rear cylinders, how much leaked in, and how was the engine still able to be started. Maybe if coolant was trapped on top of the intake valves until the engine started.

 

I agree with this. Need more info. It went from “knock sensor code error thrown for once side, dealer said it was safe to drive vehicle 150 miles home” to dealer is blaming OP. Who did the work? Did the dealer touch the engine?

A lot of good info in the thread. Hopefully OP comes back.

 

Yes, at first read it sounds like he took it to the dealer and they did the work. Upon second read, it is unclear... and upon seeing the pictures (wouldn’t pull up first time I tried) the engine has already been removed and at that point should be able to finish tearing down to find cause or evidence of why it died.

 

If he did his own tear down then he's probably SOL. It's the word of OP against the service department.

 

In situations like this it is best to video the complete tear down. Or, have a witness for all parties present. Or, have an independent impartial party do it.

It is odd that it grenaded on startup after the work was done.

 

This is my thought also. Liquid lock. The cylinders probably were not full with water which allows the piston to move then when it tries to compress the liquid that is when the damage is done right away with bends, cracks and fatigue. The starter has a lot of torque and usually bends and cracks things up at first then when it starts it goes KA BOOM. Liquid lock being either water or oil is unforgiving, you can't compress it at all and leaves a big mess in the end. And that leaves as JohnLakeman says "lots of questions". Both rear cylinders? I dought the mech was lucky enough to drop one each thing down each of the intakes for the rear cylinders. If he/she did this I think I would give up being a mechanic.

 

I understand that but I still find it hard to believe, I can't remember how many times I've touch the hot side of my battery and didn't feel a thing. Besides that sensor wouldn't have any power applied without the vehicle running and it's probably a direct feed from the ECM and probably closer to 5VDC. Either 12 or 5 I doubt there's more than a couple milliamps running along there.

DC resistance is the reason Edison lost out to Tesla in making AC 'the' household current.

 

1 post from OP, figures.

Who replaced the knock sensors? It is unclear in your first post.

 

I was very skeptical at first and still am.

 

She joined Fri but was last seen last night (Sat) at 8:26 pm. So she has been on since the original post.

 

True, but being seen is not being heard. Would be nice to have more input on this thread though.

 

You guys caught a download virus if you clicked on that file.

 

Why don't we give the OP a little while to respond before immediately assuming he/she is lying. This wouldn't be the first time someone on this forum has had their 5.7L die.

 

or ...................................

 

I’ve never found Truck Forums to be helpful with legal advice.

Best bet is be nice, yet firm with the Stealer on working out the problem. I’d love to see in writing their response to what happened but we usually only hear one side of the story. Hire a lawyer if you need one and let them do the work to make you whole.

 

I don’t think anyone said she was lying. Most tried to help. Others just asked for more info or clarification. I just said I hope she comes back to give more details.

 

Where did he go? If I ask some serious question like this, I'll be checking in very often.

 

That’s a lot of SPAM!

 

For the record. I don’t think this is really SPAM. I think the OP probably is searching everywhere for some advice.
I’m just

 

If you touch only the hot side of an AC or DC circuit you're just a floating conductor. Give the circuit a path by grounding out another part of your body. I dont' want to derail here but I've been curious about how DC might feel. Been hit more than a few times on various AC systems up to 277 in different ways over the last 16 years. It also dependents how the rat got it. In through the finger and out the elbow, not a big deal. In through the finger, passed the heart and out the foot...bigger deal. I can tell you personally, the path through the body is the difference from "ouch" and your mind leaving your body briefly. Its a full system interruption. 12vdc can kill a rat dead in its tracks

OP's rat problem is plausible but not likely the cause of this damage. It seems dealers go the rodent route frequently when responsibility is in question.

 

I can say spark plug wires will wake you up if you find a open in the sheathing

 

It's not the voltage that's as likely to kill you as it is the current. Remember that static electricity can be upwards of 20,000 volts and we run around in our socks zapping each other all the time. As little as 10mA can be painful with as few as 100mA likely lethal.

 

I work around 135 volt DC regularly and have been hit numerous times. It bothers me more than AC.

 

I've been zapped with DC a lot over the years. A 1000 DCV once. Sucked for a few minutes. BFD. AC with milliamps is a game changer. DC throws your hand off and can break your arm if you hit something. AC grabs you and kills you with very little current.

 

Backup systems?