Good deal (06 DC)? Hunting for my 1st Tundra

Sounds like pretty normal stuff for the age and PHM gave you a pretty good rundown. I would expect to replace a steering rack, brakes, and possibly CVs on anything this old honestly. If you don't have to do all that then you beat the curve. My steering rack leaks on my 120k 2006, my CVs looked pretty good honestly, my power steering lines had some leaks, my front rotors were warped when I bought the truck, and I had to replace some clamps on my trans cooler lines. I might not expect to do this on anything with over 100k, but I would expect it on anything that's 10+ years old and has ever been used like a truck.

 

Thanks for the reminder as I forgot the oil leak. Yes, its most likely the valve covers leaking and those are an easy fix.

 

Agree with everyone else. Also on the pulsating brakes, I bought mine with aftermarket rear drums and they were in great shape, but shook horribly. Something about these trucks makes them very sensitive to OEM drums. They are relatively inexpensive online and easy to replace.

 

Thanks everyone for helping out on this!

I’m about to head out to see the truck finally.

Will hopefully get the completed inspection estimate from Toyota while en route.

Looks like everyone agrees these things are all to be expected. I’ll admit, based on conversations with the current owner, that I was hoping not to have to put much into it right away (dealership was claiming on Tue it might be around $2,000) - but I’m glad that none of the issues are sounding like deal breakers. One question I didn’t think to ask though is whether any of you would use these repairs as bargaining leverage, or is the deal already solid enough if between $7000-7500?

Will hopefully have good news here later today!

 

Use the issues as leverage... one of the reasons I would tart at 5000.00... you can always increase...

 

Toyota just emailed me their estimate. Short version, I could really use a reality check from you guys... what are real world prices for these services at independent shops (need this info to bargain with, I know I can do some/all of this on my own and/or with help)? Which of these “issues” are non-issues in the first place? Which can I get away with not doing for 6-18mos.? Not counting bulbs and basics like that.

Posting this from the roadside while on my way to see the truck. Really appreciate everyone’s continued feedback! Thanks!!!!

 

@delz05 @rock climber @Professional Hand Model @KarmaKannon

 

@TundraDude18 @speedtre @FirstGenVol @BestGen

 

@McMason @Darkness @Dog

Will clean up these tags later

 

Forgot to add that the rear shoes are at 1 mm

 

Just to recap, you haven't bought the truck yet, you just test drove it and had a dealership inspect it? Obviously, their prices are incredibly high. Are you asking if you should still buy the truck? The only thing on that list that would concern me is the oil pan leak simply because it's a major PITA to fix on our trucks. That's why they want almost $3,000 for that repair alone. I would crawl under there and try to see just how bad it's leaking.

The rest of the list is normal for a vehicle with that many miles.

 

I’m on my way now to see the truck for the first time it’s just been inspected by Toyota. Correct, I haven’t purchased it yet. None of the leaks reported or enough to reach the ground. As far as the oil pan leak, yeah that one scares me too, but is it a necessary repair? I’m told it’s not Losing oil. @FirstGenVol

 

Drive it, inspect the frame thoroughly, try to negotiate for a better price based on that list of repairs. Good luck.

 

I know. Sorry for all the noob questions, just trying to avoid a major headache and the red flags are flying!

 

I don't like the idea of going up 500 at a time.

Every time the guy says, "No," you give him another 500 bucks? His incentive is to say, "No."

I'd rather figure out what I want to give for it and tell the guy that's what I'm willing to pay. Now, the pressure is on the seller to keep the deal.

The responsibility for knowing what the vehicle is worth is on the buyer.

 

You won't find another Tundra with that many miles on it with fewer problems: and I doubt for a much better price.

However, there's always another vehicle and another day. If you don't feel comfortable with it, don't buy it.

If it was me, I'd look for a 2nd generation.

 

That quote looks mighty weird. Way too much labor for the rear brake job and no parts listed for the VC gasket just a note saying "parts included"

 

Yeah I think that was just a tech advisor’s way of getting me info I can use to make my decision and to negotiate with I should get a proper copy emailed later.

 

“You won't find another Tundra with that many miles on it with fewer problems: and I doubt for a much better price.”

I know that’s pretty much already been implied, but thanks for that! My head is swimming as I drive down trying to make it to the rental car place in time to return the rental I got in hopes to be driving home with my new to me tundra today, and this statement here is just the sort of reality check I need to make the call.

This is all text to speech while I’m driving, will clean up the thread ASAP.

 

Doubt it needs the upper pan resealed. Likely just valve cover leaking down. Mine looked like it needed the pan too, but replace the valve cover gaskets and it hasn’t even shown the slightest hint of a leak

 

If your gut speaks, listen.

 

Offer guy $4300 as those above items can be done for $3000ish. Never heard of an oil pan leak on our trucks.

$4300 + $3000(repairs max. not with oil pan)= $7300 your cost

Oil pan ‘leak’ is probs cam seals up above dripping down (not listed in repair?) or valve cover gaskets. I know my cams seals are leaking at 162k but not losing oil. Just a slight weep. Will repair those at next Timing Belt redo around 200k miles.

All my info means nothing without me seeing it.

 

A few notes and my opinion:

- the seller has had the truck listed for a number of days, and hasn't sold it yet, so he knows he didn't underprice it and probably overpriced it. Therefore he is likely not expecting to get his asking price of 7500.
- he also knows you paid a dealer for a PPI, and you are traveling to see it, so he knows you have some money and time already "invested" in his truck.
- If I were the seller, no way would I simply deduct the retail price of the buyer's anticipated repairs from my asking price. I might split it halfway at most. (at 3k in repairs, half is 1.5k) And that is excluding the alleged upper pan gasket leak, which is highly suspect, and as others above have said, might be a valve cover leak instead

TundraDude18 offers good advice, in that you should go in knowing what you are willing to pay.

IMO the right spot (i.e. the number required to get the deal done) might be 6k. I don't know you and don't know the seller - takes two to tango - so my number is simply my opinion of what this transaction may require. But 7.5 asking price minus half of the anticipated repairs comes in around 6k. Justifiable, rational, sellable. But again, I am just armchair quarterbacking... I could just be full of $hit.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Personally I'd use that estimate as leverage to get a better price. I think that estimate looks crazy high, but I have a hard time even paying for someone else to align my vehicles. I align my truck myself unless I want some specific feedback on my previous alignment

Just spitballing here, but based on the $60 to replace the marker bulbs I'm going to guess you could at least cut that repair number in half with some minor elbow grease and shopping around. That steering rack is probably something like a 2 hour job for a good mechanic and a remand rack with lines should be under $500. Add 2 hours at a shop and I would think you are under $700. Get the brakes done at the same time and maybe they'll get you a better price since they are already under it.

Hell if you really want it, find a good shade tree mechanic that wants some money. Ask your work or church or rotary club friends and see if anybody knows someone decent. A steering rack isn't rocket surgery and rear brakes are a pain, but not all that terrible for someone who's familiar with them. As for the oil leaks you can try high mileage oil and see if it helps. If it's leaking bad you are stuck with replacing them. Once again an independent shop or a shade tree mechanic might help you here.
Fight for a better price if you like the truck and the frame looks good. Also the interior should be to your liking because that can be money there too. If it has any rust on the painted surface of the body I'd say no. That's just me.

 

That estimate is sky high on everything. Heres an idea, take the list of things from that estimate to a local auto shop, not a dealership. See if they can provide a pricing estimate, do not show them the prices from Toyota.

There is no way I would consider spending a thousand dollars on rear brakes.

I would not consider a steering rack replacement for fifteen hundred.

Three hours labor would be generous for valve cover gaskets, that price is too high as well.

That upper pan gasket doesn't look difficult, messy for sure but not difficult enough for $2800. A bit time consuming for the average Joe, but for a shop with a lift it's not bad.

I don't think the truck is a bad deal, I also don't think everything on that list is necessary, and the prices are rape. See what a regular mechanic would charge for those items to get a realistic idea before you decide to make an offer to buy.

 

I guess i misunderstood this. I assumed they meant the oil pan gasket. I've looked at this before and it wouldn't be easy. What's the upper pan?

 

There is the pan, and an upper section of pan. Theres some obstacles for sure but more messy than anything.

 

Well........I drove her home!!!

Truck is definitely not a garage princess and for that reason, plus whatever these repairs end up costing, I may have paid more than others here would have. But I needed a truck ASAP and the cosmetics don’t bother me. I respect the value it represents, but I’m going to be adding more scratches and dings myself and won’t be losing any sleep over the ones already there. Final price was $7000. If I put a few thousand more into it and can get another 75-100k out of her, I’ll be happy.

After driving 3+ hours home, over mountain roads and freeway, I can say I love it already. Handles like a champ, but I will get these brakes worked on sooner than later. Didn’t notice the pulsating at all on the test drive, but of course did right away after handing over the cash (albeit under different road conditions and speed). It’s pretty strong on downhill mountain roads (brakes pulsating). There was also a pretty noticeable vibration when taking my foot off the gas when at speeds around 70mph - the vibration was similar (physically and audibly), though lower in intensity, as when you drive over a rumble strip.

I did discuss the repairs with two independent shops and will keep doing so with others as the ones I spoke to were cheaper, but not significantly so vs Toyota’s quote. I’m sure I can do even better on the prices.

I’ll add more later, but wanted to give everyone that’s been helping the good news. And I owe everyone here a huge thanks. Things have been chaotic the last few weeks and I got some really good well informed advice from you guys that’ve been at this a while....without it I most likely wouldn’t have had the confidence to go for this one.

Thanks again and happy new year!

P.S. the KO2s are in great shape and help a bit with the value.