Good deal (06 DC)? Hunting for my 1st Tundra

Hey everyone,

Hoping to get some feedback from the experts here on a 06 DC Limited that’s available a few hours away from me. The asking price is $7500 and it seems like a good fit for my needs.

The truck has about 240k on it, but sounds well maintained, with oil changes every 4-5k, new front struts and sway bar stabilizers, recent brake pads/service, new timing belt/pump about 50k ago, rebuilt alternator, diff/tranny fluids replaced 1k ago, tires have about 10k on them, etc. Single owner vehicle with no accidents (truck was backed into something though, see pics). Truck was a work truck/commuter. Seller says no rust (other than what’s visible in rear damage). In addition to the bumper/body/tailgate damage, it has a few other body scratches, and a pretty good tear in the normal spot on the driver’s seat.

I’m not too concerned with the cosmetics, just need something safe and reliable and the price gives me wiggle room for mods and future repairs. Hopefully I’d be able to squeeze another 5-10 years out of it, if realistic.

If I can work out the timing, I'll get a pre-purchase inspection done at the dealership (or other local shop), but that might not be in the cards.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Here’s a few pics:

 

Does it have less than 200,000 miles on it?

Is it in a state that uses a lot of salt on the roads [winter]?

Looks pretty nice.

 

Oops, meant to include that. It has about 240k. No salt. Will update post, thanks.

 

Honestly that seems like a good price for that truck. Assuming he's got proof he actually did all that maintenance. I'd say he actually backed in to something repeatedly but you can replace that bumper pretty easily.

Just make sure you inspect the frame carefully. Good luck!

 

The one owner part of older vehicles is the key part...people who buy vehicles new and keep it that long tend to take care of them very well. You should be able to get another 100K+ miles out of that truck no problem. Three things to check before you hand over any cash. #1, rust, #2 transmission shifts smoothly, #2A shifts in and out of 4WD high and low, #3 heat/ac operating well.

Also, get the VIN, register here and add the vehicle and take a look to see what it's had done to it at Toyota dealerships.

www.toyota.com/owners

Also, this is my personal preference, but if I'm SERIOUS about a vehicle, I pull a carfax before I hand over any cash. I know they don't always reveal everything, but one saved me from buying a 4Runner that had a significant odometer roll-back one time, so to me, it's $40 well spent

 

If you want it, I'd call him and say, "I'll give you $6,000 for it, TODAY."

If he balks, tell him you've got some other options [which is TRUE], but you'd rather have his truck, IF he will take 6 grand for it.

YMMV

 

Seems a little high to me. It'll be due for another timing belt change in 40K miles. I paid $4900 for mine with 225K, however mine is a regular cab 4x. Good luck!

 

Somebody on here no doubt sent him a private PM telling him to call the owner and offer him $8500 immediately before it's sold!



@Darkness

 

I don't think you can really compare a regular cab to a DC. No offense, but only certain people are going to want a regular cab truck. Double Cabs around here are always over $10,000.

If he can get it for $7,500-8000 it's a good buy(assuming everything else checks out).

 

That's why I noted, "however mine is a regular cab", because it was an apples to oranges comparison.

 

There's a huge price difference between a regular cab and double cab. OP, as long as there's no rust, I'd say go for it. It's not a garage princess as you mentioned, but not bad cosmetically and that price for a DC is pretty hard to beat.

 

Thanks everyone, appreciate the feedback so far!

Got the VIN a few minutes ago and am not seeing a lot of the services mentioned, but the seller tells me he has records for everything.

On Toyota’s owner site, it looks like the lower ball joints were replaced under recall (PERFORM RECALL 70B LOWER BALL JOINTS) early on (late ‘08). Other than that, just a few minor things that were corrected under warranty around the same time (an interior light, buggy tire pressure warning, issue with carpet, etc.).

Carfax shows consistent oil changes between about 200k and 240k, but there’s a large gap between 140k and 200k with nothing listed. Below 140k there’s a handful of oil changes, but no [Carfax] records below 100k (truck had a 100k warranty that expired in 2012). Other than basic things like routine oil changes, tire rotation, and maintenance inspections, here’s what it lists:

- At 102k it shows:

• Vehicle serviced
• Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed
• Water pump replaced
• Timing belt replaced
• Spark plug(s) replaced
• Air filter replaced

- Alternator replaced at 214k


- At 222k it shows:

• Vehicle serviced
• Maintenance inspection completed
• Brakes checked
• Brake fluid flushed/changed
• Brake fluid checked
• Front brake pads replaced
• Front brakes serviced
• Brake shoes replaced
• Brake pads replaced

- At 239k it shows:

• Vehicle serviced
• Differential fluid flushed/changed
• Oil and filter changed

I’m gonna call the service tech at the dealership I spoke to yesterday to see if I can find out anything more.

Edit: the service advisor didn’t have anything to add.

 

It's a lot of miles, but that's also a lot of service performed. Still looks good overall, has the big cab, and the tires seem to be in great shape. Looks like a reliable, versatile, relatively low risk vehicle for $7500. Nice Price

 

It's worth more than 7500, the paint alone is worth 7500. I would buy.

Toyota wont have data on anything done outside of Toyota, most people arent faithful to dealerships for service because things can be done much cheaper elsewhere.

Looks good, take advice from others on frame inspecting. What state is that in?

 

Thanks again guys, definitely leaning towards going for it!

For this specific truck/deal, how many of you would feel the need to have a shop inspect it first? I used to have a hard and fast rule about always doing an inspection in case I miss something, but the logistics in pulling this off aren’t in my favor this time (local shops either closed this weekend or already booked). I’m not as mechanical as I used to be (hoping to change that with whatever I end up buying). Seller seems solid, no obvious red flags with him or truck. Says the tranny is strong, engine starts right away, clean exhaust, no known issues.

 

I would be HIGHLY suspicious of any truck owner who would put an Apple sticker on his bumper...


OP, if this is as you say in a no-salt state, I would suspect this owner has received more than one call about this truck. The price doesn't seem unreasonable to me, especially if he can produce all of those maintenance records. I would get over there and check things out sooner than later. Good advice from others above about what to look for (frame rust, transmission, etc).

 

That was one of my first thoughts too. Then I realized he’s been trying to sell it for about a month. Wondering now if people are objecting to something seen/learned in person. I said above there were no obvious red flags, but this is probably worth asking about. Hopefully it’s just low demand or that people are looking for one in better cosmetic shape.

Still, I'd like to get out there ASAP and see for myself so I can jump on it if everything checks out. Basically need an entire day though with the drive...hopefully soon and hopefully not a waste of time.

 

All you guys spouting off prices for these good looking first gens you find makes me forget how much I even paid for mine. A better question than how much I paid for it is how much have I put into it and how much could I sell it for haha. With bargain hunters like I see on here I'd be lucky to just lose my left arm or leg.

 

I agree! So...how much have you put into it? Only curious about repairs, not mods or wear and tear items. Also curious how long you’ve owned yours (looks like your build started this summer)?

 

Good points.

The 1st Gen trucks that sell quickly around here seem to be the single owner lower mileage ones. They are gone in a day and the prices usually are $7-9k for AC and about $12k for the DC.

Where things get funky are the second and third owner sellers with crooked pictures and vague descriptions.

Now to your point, there is no way to get out money out of these trucks. Only rationalization is that we are spending less than owning a new truck. If we had to pay ourselves for all our DIY work we would really be underwater.

 

I have no idea because most the wear items have been replaced with the front suspension build. I've had it since August last year.

Oh I completely understand that. I got a tundra because at the last minute my wife decided to complain about me spending $35k on a truck that I'd been looking for months to find. Women... Oh well it's been a fun journey and she just complains a little all the time instead of a lot all at once. I'm pretty sure the cost would have been sixes with what I've done though.

 

I figured you understood. Its just that for me to justify my thinking is that the money goes either in this (old truck) or that (newer much higher truck payment). Fortunately, I don’t need to leverage that type thinking with Mz. PHM but have counseled friends in that direction.

At some point we have to draw the line though unless money is no object. Our trucks are still worthy of reinvestment even at almost 20 years old so this is a good thing.

 

Paid 13K 10 yrs ago with 113K miles, sitting at 188K now....retired and only put approx 7K miles yr on her. Spent approx 6K in 10 yrs and good Lord willing I'll only have ~250K miles on her when I'm 75. Have more to spend for sure but still when all over said and done, she'll still be cheaper to keeper compared to a God awful note.

It's these young bucks that have to consider the cost of when enough is a enough I suppose.

 

Just purchased another, (my 4th) 2005 A/C Stepside Limited 4WD, 267k miles, but NO maintenance done, for 2700.00. If what you are looking at was available in Mass... I would already own it at 7500.00! Sure, I would start IN PERSON with 5000.00 cash, but I would have my other pockets filled 500.00 at a time! If the rear diff is solid and everything works... go for it! Seats are a 200.00 fix, timing belt with water pump etc... runs about 900.00 to 1200.00

 

This one popped up in mpls today. 2006 with 278K for $5900 https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/cto/d/minneapolis-2006-toyota-tundra-crew-cab/7042956691.html

 

And it's sold already

 

Update:

Truck was brought to Toyota today for their 110+ point inspection. I still haven’t been able to check it out in person (will Thurs or Fri). The advisor says it’s a solid truck overall, but it does need some work (hopefully nothing too major).

Toyota didn’t finish the paperwork before everyone left today, so most of this is from memory after talking to the advisor. I'll update again when I know more on Thursday.

The brakes pulsated on the road test. Front pads and rotors were replaced 9k ago, but not with OEM parts. There’s a 2 year/24k warranty on the brake work, so maybe the rotors can be turned. Not sure yet what it needs. The rear brakes have never been serviced, so that’s on the list.

There’s an inner leak on the right front CV joint/boot.

There’s a small oil leak somewhere on the engine (not enough to reach the ground or need oil, advisor says normal for the mileage - wondering what you guys think).

The steering/linkage has a leak somewhere (again, not enough to reach the ground). This is the one I’m nervous about. The parts guys were already gone for the day, but I was told parts alone will probably be >$500. The power steering was also noted as leaking - not sure if these are related.

Haven’t been able to confirm 4wd was checked, but was told prior to inspection that it would be.

That’s what I know so far. More soon.

Merry Christmas everyone.

 

Have the brake warranty work performed for free if possible. If not free, just live with it until you can do all new parts.

CV’s I would replace with Toy remans. Not urgent as both mine leaked for years without clacking.

Steering links leaking at steering rack boots is a normal thing at these ages. One side of my rack bellow leaks out of a small tear and never hits ground. Maybe pull the bellow back and clean things up inside and reinstall bellow with zip tie. Did mine like this and will continue to keep an eye on it until it becomes a real leak.

Your other steering leak might be at the fluid reservoir in the engine bay. Buy 2 stainless steel
snake clamps to replace the 2 old tension clamps where fluid is probs leaking around hose connection. Check my build page for a pic.

 

It's a vehicle with 240K miles on it. Those don't sound like unreasonable issues. As for the oil leak you mention, if it's not making it to the ground, it's nothing to worry about. Every toyota truck/suv I've ever owned with more than 120K miles on it and original VCG weeped slightly at them, so that's your most likely culprit. If you determine it is, you could try slightly snugging the valve cover bolts. If that doesn't work, I would leave it alone till the next timing belt change and then I would change the valve cover gaskets and cam/crank seals during that timing belt job.

@Professional Hand Model gave you good advice above on the other stuff, so read up on it. So far still seems like a sound deal to me. Good Luck...